Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

avo1811

Basenotes Dependent
Dec 6, 2018
Okay here’s what I’m getting on skin with Sacred Scarab:

Immediately I get a huge hit of crushed lemon leaves. It’s a bitter, spicy lemon quality that quickly smooths out into a bright, floral citrusy quality. It’s like lemon backed by white florals.

I get HUGE similarities to La Rayon Vert. It’s a more floral forward La Rayon Vert accord that has a gorgeous white floracy mixed with this peppery/citrusy greeness. Pretty soon some soapy, musky florals start to take shape and they shift around and morph almost too fast for my nose to detect. My sweatshirt is allowing me to smell the transitions slowed down though.

I haven’t made it to the plum, wine, balsamic/resinous aspects yet. So far it’s so floral, spicy, and green. Slightly indolic. Slightly soapy.

Main notes I detect so far:

Petigrain
Lemon
Neroli
Hyacinth
Orange blossom
Jasmine sambac
Galbanum
Soapy musk
Hint of rose

The wine accord is showing up now:

Rose
Champaca
Musk
Resins

This has an almost chewy feel to it now. I’m not detecting any plum yet. This still has a hefty dose of white floracy in the mix. The citrus is gone now. The bitter/spicy quality is gone too. I get a sweetness reminiscent of Civet de Nuit here too. This really has Sultan’s DNA all over it.

Okay now the wine accord is on full displays. It’s bright, cheerful red wine. Feels uplifting and soulful. WOW. This leans feminine but it’s very soulful. Very uplifting so I’d say it’s feminine but unisex. People expecting a dark incense fragrance should shift their expectations.
Im surprised you dont get any incense with scarab. Along with what youve listed i got a pretty good dose of incense for pretty much the entire life of the fragrance, minus maybe right in the opening.
 

Castingshadows

Basenotes Dependent
Apr 14, 2020
Fair enough, can't like them all:). On me, the inkiness and the aquatic nature keep pushing throughout the fragrance's life. If I were to experience it the way you do, I would probably feel the same. Skin chemistry can be such a deal-breaker, I can definitely attest to that.
I’ve realized I have a high tolerance for aquatic aromachemicals so where people smell a good deal of them I seem to smell very little. Case in point, Haxan by Prin has a light dusting of calone and ambroxan that seems to be no longer noticeable after an hour or two whereas on others it’s ALL they can smell and nothing else. So I blame my nose and skin chemistry.
Im surprised you dont get any incense with scarab. Along with what youve listed i got a pretty good dose of incense for pretty much the entire life of the fragrance, minus maybe right in the opening.
I just never updated how I felt about the drydown. For the drydown I get an aromatic, unlit, fruity bahkoor vibe where maybe all those sticky resins are held together with honey and usually some kind of fruit Is thrown in the mix and the aroma gets me pretty close to the drydown of Sacred Scarab. I really don’t perceive incense in the true sense of the word though. On my skin everything feels pretty aromatic but I get a good deal of oakmoss and amber in the drydown that I really love but this never really feels like an “incense” composition. I do get hints of the aroma of unlit, floral agarbatti style incense and unlit fruity bahkoor but it’s way later in the drydown. It doesn’t have the weight, resinous, or grounding aspects of what I’d usually gravitate towards and I think alot of folks are actually a bit bummed because they thought this would have a more incense forward approach.

I’ve spoken with several people who love SP’s attars and they’re a bit let down because they expected something that would mimic the effect of SP’s incense styled attars. It’s the same issue folks had with Civet de Nuit too. SP’s spray perfumery style is just apples and oranges to his attars (so far anyways) so if people read this I don’t want them to feel let down but to shift their expectations and understand Sacred Scarab is ultimately an aromatic, uplifting, bright, Chypre experience.
 

Tonyprince

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 1, 2007
I just ordered a sample of Sacred Scarab and am looking forward to trying it. However, I was a bit surprised at the price of a bottle of this one ($210).
 

lfc1892

Basenotes Junkie
Dec 12, 2021
Interesting how you perceive Squid. It's a balsamic alright but there's definitely a strong ink accord in there, a noticeable saltiness, and a watery quality to it. To me, it's very unique, and beautiful.
I agree. I only get anything remotely aquatic for a minute or so and then after that it’s all about the stunning deep sweet ink accord.
I don’t find it mass market at all either. I think most folk would find it hard to relate to.
I’d say Panda was much more mass market. Along with cow and seahorse. Maybe even Bee due to its lovely sweetness and familiarity.
Another lovely thing about Squid is how it leaves a sparkly inky feel on clothes for well if a day. Always leaves me wanting to sniff them.
 

Dr B1414

Basenotes Junkie
Oct 21, 2019
Finally, received more Zoologist samples, basically, all the ones that I was left to try (except Scarab and Cardinal which I'll need to sniff soon).
Trying these on blotters(I don't risk my skin anymore because lately, I don't seem to care for most stuff out there), the only issue is that there are almost 100 degrees outside, and I don't use AC(hate it) which makes it quite difficult to sniff perfume.

I got samples of T-Rex, Civet, Nightingale, and the original Rhino. Also, re-tested Moth and Camel from my archives.

As expected, I don't like T-Rex. It gives me Lita and Serin vibes, which I also don't like. I don't find it too much/daring/bold, there's just something off-putting to me about these 3, which share a similar vibe.

Very disappointed with Civet, boring resinous-floral, I stopped smelling the blotter after a while, I can see the mass appeal though, very safe and pleasant perfume.

Nightingale was a very pleasant surprise, I got a sample after looking at the notes, it seemed like an old-fashioned floral-chypre, something that I like, and it is exactly that. It reminds me a bit of the Shiseido version of Rose de Nuit, with that dusty-mossy rose, but here there's also a hint of violet. A bit soapy as well. I like it a lot, don't think I'll buy it though, as I have several vintage floral perfumes that scratch that itch, plus 3 bell jars of Rose de Nuit:)). That being said, I think this one is a sleeper, hardly ever see anyone talking about it. For those that love old-school perfumes, I highly suggest Nightingale.

The OG Rhino is amazing. Had high expectations with this one based on the feedback and the notes and it did deliver. It's one of those perfumes that I just have to keep on smelling because it is so weird and addictive. Nothing makes sense in here, there's lots of aromatics in the opening, with some elemi resin, then you get the leather (not harsh), immortelle, some booze, and woods. They all come together and coalesce into a weird combination. Aromatic, fresh, boozy, very dry, leathery, herbaceous, and a bit sweet. Like, what the hell is this? It smells amazing. Very unique perfume. I'll have to see how it behaves on my skin.

I appreciate Camel a bit more now, I get the same desert-arid vibe that I find in Hyrax, but with spices and fruits on top instead of the animalic orgy. Nice, I'll have to re-test.

Moth was a like in the past but now I just can't do with this type of rubbery oud accord, especially paired with honeyed florals and smoke. Nope.

OG Rhino > Nightingale > Camel > T-Rex > Moth > Civet.

So far Hyrax and Squid are winners, and OG Rhino has potential. Looking forward to Scarab and Cardinal. This house is fun for sure and definitely promising.
 

Dr B1414

Basenotes Junkie
Oct 21, 2019
Wearing Rhinoceros on the skin and I'm already sold. It's even better on my skin. On paper, it became mostly a dry woody leather but on my skin, those beautiful mentholated and aromatic qualities from the opening stay throughout. I also get more of the booze, immortelle, elemi, cedar, and sage. This is so unique and complex. I would have it on the number one spot tied with the OG Bat/Nightflyer for Zoologist. Art, yet so wearable. I don't even know how to classify this, a leather-fougere? Maybe. All I care about is that it is amazing. Many thanks to all of you who recommended this.
 

Proust_Madeleine

Basenotes Dependent
Apr 5, 2019
Wearing Rhinoceros on the skin and I'm already sold. It's even better on my skin. On paper, it became mostly a dry woody leather but on my skin, those beautiful mentholated and aromatic qualities from the opening stay throughout. I also get more of the booze, immortelle, elemi, cedar, and sage. This is so unique and complex. I would have it on the number one spot tied with the OG Bat/Nightflyer for Zoologist. Art, yet so wearable. I don't even know how to classify this, a leather-fougere? Maybe. All I care about is that it is amazing. Many thanks to all of you who recommended this.
The perfumer is a BN member. I wonder if we could get him to Night Flyer it.
 

Dr B1414

Basenotes Junkie
Oct 21, 2019
The perfumer is a BN member. I wonder if we could get him to Night Flyer it.
I was just wondering this myself. As far as I see it, the perfume got axed due to IFRA regulations, there was nothing that Victor or Paul could do about it. And as far as I am aware, there was no beef between them, like with Ellen. So, I wonder why wouldn't Victor just give Paul the rights over his own formula, so that he could freely make it and sell it under his own brand? It would be very honorable on Victor's part, rewarding for Paul, and for us, the consumers. Unless, Victor fears that Paul's version would sell better than his, in which case, I could see the "Why?".
 

LinePlaneVolume

Basenotes Junkie
May 31, 2020
I was in London last week and stopped by Bloom to sniff some their diverse wears. At one point, the guy I was talking to pulled out an almost empty bottle of the original Rhino to smell. He spoke in reverent tones of it 😀. It was great to smell it again and only reinforced for me how much I regret not getting it when it was still available.
 

Dr B1414

Basenotes Junkie
Oct 21, 2019
I was in London last week and stopped by Bloom to sniff some their diverse wears. At one point, the guy I was talking to pulled out an almost empty bottle of the original Rhino to smell. He spoke in reverent tones of it 😀. It was great to smell it again and only reinforced for me how much I regret not getting it when when it was still available.
I think you can still find bottles around. I got one yesterday on Parfumo.de, and Parfumaria in the Netherlands has a very small stock of it. I suggest getting in touch with small retailers, they usually have a lot of old stock still. If not, they are still available on the secondary market. I also think that it is a brilliant perfume, top to bottom.
 

LinePlaneVolume

Basenotes Junkie
May 31, 2020
I think you can still find bottles around. I got one yesterday on Parfumo.de, and Parfumaria in the Netherlands has a very small stock of it. I suggest getting in touch with small retailers, they usually have a lot of old stock still. If not, they are still available on the secondary market. I also think that it is a brilliant perfume, top to bottom.
Hey, thanks for the tips. Parfumaria is only showing one bottle type on their website so I can try to call them for clarity. From Parfumo.de... did you get it off of a forum there?
 

Dr B1414

Basenotes Junkie
Oct 21, 2019
Hey, thanks for the tips. Parfumaria is only showing one bottle type on their website so I can try to call them for clarity. From Parfumo.de... did you get it off of a forum there?
I've sent an e-mail to Parfumaria and they confirmed to me that they have both versions in stock, you just need to type in the comments section at check-out which one you want. Parfumo is amazing, I've found so many great deals there, they have a Souk where you can swap and sell, and set alerts for perfumes. The only downside is that most sellers are from Europe, I don't know if they ship Internationally but never say never.
 

LinePlaneVolume

Basenotes Junkie
May 31, 2020
I've sent an e-mail to Parfumaria and they confirmed to me that they have both versions in stock, you just need to type in the comments section at check-out which one you want. Parfumo is amazing, I've found so many great deals there, they have a Souk where you can swap and sell, and set alerts for perfumes. The only downside is that most sellers are from Europe, I don't know if they ship Internationally but never say never.
I've had good luck in the past getting things from Bloom, Oriza Legrand, and an Italian online store, shipped to the states. Pandemic might have messed that up but I gotta take a shot for Rhino. :)

Yikes. Parfumaria does charge 69 Euros to ship to US. :oops: But, the detail page does list it as the original formulation.
 

Dr B1414

Basenotes Junkie
Oct 21, 2019
I've had good luck in the past getting things from Bloom, Oriza Legrand, and an Italian online store, shipped to the states. Pandemic might have messed that up but I gotta take a shot for Rhino. :)
I totally get it. I sample lots of perfumes all the time, all kinds. Few make an impact as this one did. Had to get it. To me, totally unique. Maybe my skin has to do a lot with it because I don't really see it as a leather perfume. It's more like a 5 in one perfume to me:)).
 

strangelight

Basenotes Member
Jun 9, 2022
I'm not familiar with aquatics, but there's a salty-sweet note/accord I've experienced in both Squid and Profumum Roma's Acqua di Sale that makes me queasy - I find them both fine in their openings but end up unable to stand wearing them both within half an hour. Could this be calone?

And I've fully joined the chorus bowed over by Sacred Scarab - first from this house I've considered buying a full bottle of. I knew it would be up my alley as a lover of incense and orientals, but I didn't anticipate how different it would feel to anything I've tried. Love how bright and summer-friendly it is. Yet there's something very familiar about the smell even though I can't recall a perfume similar to it too - anything similar come to mind?
 

lfc1892

Basenotes Junkie
Dec 12, 2021
I'm not familiar with aquatics, but there's a salty-sweet note/accord I've experienced in both Squid and Profumum Roma's Acqua di Sale that makes me queasy - I find them both fine in their openings but end up unable to stand wearing them both within half an hour. Could this be calone?

And I've fully joined the chorus bowed over by Sacred Scarab - first from this house I've considered buying a full bottle of. I knew it would be up my alley as a lover of incense and orientals, but I didn't anticipate how different it would feel to anything I've tried. Love how bright and summer-friendly it is. Yet there's something very familiar about the smell even though I can't recall a perfume similar to it too - anything similar come to mind?
I’ve a sample of Scarab landing tomorrow so hopefully I’ll enjoy it.
I’ve got squid and have worn it plenty of times and never really pick up Calone in it.
 

lfc1892

Basenotes Junkie
Dec 12, 2021
Scarab is not what I expected at all. First hour or so starts with a lovely explosive sweet floral blast with a lovely vintage/retro feel to it. Very wearable. Very very well blended. Looking forward to the dry down…
 

lfc1892

Basenotes Junkie
Dec 12, 2021
Sooo, the dry down on my skin, is pretty much a milder version of the opening. Doesn’t really change much for me and although I like it, it won’t be a full bottle for me.
 

Castingshadows

Basenotes Dependent
Apr 14, 2020
Scarab is not what I expected at all. First hour or so starts with a lovely explosive sweet floral blast with a lovely vintage/retro feel to it. Very wearable. Very very well blended. Looking forward to the dry down…
This is one I’m glad I have a couple samples of but I won’t be buying a full bottle. I think as a work of perfumery it’s incredible and really shows SP’s skill as a perfumer but it’s not something I’d wear often. If it was darker and heavier on the basenotes/incense I’d be scooping up a bottle or two.
 

lfc1892

Basenotes Junkie
Dec 12, 2021
I felt this way the first two wearings but I get quite a journey now into almost gourmand base resins.
Yeh I’ll be trying it again. Lost count of the number of times I’ve not liked stuff to then love it. Case in point is Mandarava. Swore I’d given up on it last week and yet there’s a new bottle sat in my kitchen.
 

lfc1892

Basenotes Junkie
Dec 12, 2021
This is one I’m glad I have a couple samples of but I won’t be buying a full bottle. I think as a work of perfumery it’s incredible and really shows SP’s skill as a perfumer but it’s not something I’d wear often. If it was darker and heavier on the basenotes/incense I’d be scooping up a bottle or two.
Agree on the base. Maybe that will come with a couple of wearings.
 

Proust_Madeleine

Basenotes Dependent
Apr 5, 2019
Yeh I’ll be trying it again. Lost count of the number of times I’ve not liked stuff to then love it. Case in point is Mandarava. Swore I’d given up on it last week and yet there’s a new bottle sat in my kitchen.
Agree on mandarava. A thought it smelled like cheap floral musks(detergent almost) on first few wears… then that amazing incense base started shining through.
 

lfc1892

Basenotes Junkie
Dec 12, 2021
Wearing Panda today in the Sun. I think it gets an unfair rep of being mainstream. I don’t think it is, it’s just more wearable than some of it’s peers from the range. I absolutely love the stuff. Sweet, fruity and balanced with that lovely earth/soily feel. Mmmmmmm
 

lfc1892

Basenotes Junkie
Dec 12, 2021
Tried elephant ages ago and loved the opening. Wasn’t what I was after at the time but need to try it again. If it’s stays as realistic in the dry down as it does when it opens I need ti start saving
 
Dec 16, 2018
I am finally catching up with all the releases.

Deer Musk:
It is a very wearable and pleasant musk. Think jasmine-iris, and then a dose of musky oudh. A hint of muskiness lingers above the sweetness, which is how true musk perfume should be but the key to any such perfume is the concentration. If one has real musk pods, when you make dilutions-- too little of it, it becomes too floral and sweet-- amp up the concentration and sweetness becomes nauseatingly cloying and animalic-muskiness makes one gag. Here, although I doubt any animal-Musks were used, the scent is trying to mimic a perfectly dilute original musk sample, a quietly demure perfume.

Chipmunk:
Nutmeg, cardamom, woods, so aromatic but so peppery. And in its depth is the faint succulence of hazelnutty fruit. I am noticing that Victor is his fragrance editing is drifting more and more towards chypre-like structures, patchouli-vetiver in base, middle nutty-amber notes and in the top tiers’ aromatics instead of citruses. And here, it is all nuts. (Pun fully intended! Chipmunk heaven)
 

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