Your Favorite “Green” Scent.

[kosui no kaori]

Highly recommend sampling YSL's Grain de Poudre by Quentin Bisch. Soft, juicy green fragrance with sage, violet leaf and suede. If you decide it's fbw, look for a batch code starting with 62.

This sounds gorgeous - and thank you for the tip!

 

[kosui no kaori]

I tried my decants of Malle's Synthetic Jungle and Rose et Cuir yesterday.

SJ is really good, the crazy green opening fades pretty quickly to a softer, musky white floral with the greens more in the background. I disagree about the green pepper association, it smells a lot like the inside of a florist shop, cut stems of flowers, watery, humid, floral notes, pretty complex actually. The musky white floral aspect is excellent, it dominates over the greens as time goes on, but the greens hold on for a long time making for a nice contrast. This is really good, but not something I'd go for often. Glad to have the decant but am not considering a full bottle.

RC is interesting but I really didn't like it at all. It's harsh and astringent, the pepper note dominates throughout and is overbearing. The opening is that pepper, they say its Sichuan pepper but idk... and a very loud, green geranium. The vetiver and cedar base just add to the sharpness, and at this point leather and rose and absent. Thankfully, after a while the rose and leather do come out, but it's this IBQ synthetic leather accord that is transparent and harsh, and the rose is transparent and very slightly sweet. The Rose is the only redeeming aspect of this perfume, but it's not nearly enough to save it from feeling like an antiseptic cleaning product. I'd be very uncomfortable wearing this as there's no human aspect to it whatsoever, I am almost certain everyone who smells it will think you've spilled some sort of cleaner on yourself. There's going to be no positive scent associations here imo, and I just can't see this as a perfume at all. I scrubbed it off as much as possible after a few hours.

This was such an insightful read.

I’m so glad that you enjoyed Synthetic Jungle 🙂 I loved your comparison of the opening to the inside of a florist shop … I can absolutely see the cut stems as so. The next time I wear it, I will keep your description in mind!

I’m also grateful for the insight on RC … off its general description, it’s something that I would blind buy a FB of. With your personal description, I would absolutely put the brakes on the impulse and sample first.

Thank you!

 

[kosui no kaori]

Interesting about Synthetic jungle. It seems grayspoole and dorje perceive the drydown as floral musky, whereas I perceive it as a dry, clean leather, which lasts forever and which I like very much. Go figure-it could also be that I am anosmic to the relevant musk, so I get to enjoy the goodies underneath.

Regarding rose cuir, initially I had a reaction similar to Dorje-very very strong harsh leather. But then, after some experimentation, I found that one spray on the belly (under the shirt) is the way to go for this. One hour in, from under the clothes, it's just the right amount. The leather goes on for a long time at the right volume and balance with the rose. I agree though that this is not to be sprayed on the neck, and one has to wait half an hour to enjoy properly. It has now gone on my to-buy list.

One thing I like of these two perfumes is that they don't veer off course but the drydown remains coherent, and lasts a long time.

cacio

Incredibly insightful.

Thank you for the perspective!

 

[kosui no kaori]

After a couple not so great Malle reviews, I've tried Iris Poudre today and while it isn't so green, there is a touch of green. This is SPECTACULAR. Not sure I can get away with wearing this in public as it's such a classic feminine perfume, but for what it is, it's so well done. I mostly got this because Pierre Bourdon, and I'm glad I did. This is probably one of his best. Makes up for suffering through Rose et Cuir...

😆

This sounds amazing! I adore a good iris.

 

[kosui no kaori]

I agree with the people saying green is such a hazy category. I haven't been able to try Bandit itself yet, but have tested two scents that are reportedly similar Bandit Supreme and Le Sillage Blanc, and neither "feel" green to me. Edit: maybe I just don't interpret Galbanum as green, though it seems common to think of it as the green ingredient haha.
Romanza and Ostara are two green narcissus scents I adore but they could hardly be more different to my nose. Romanza feels deep, woody and animalistic and Ostara is bright, floral and clean.
Also a big fan of Rogue's Mousse Illuminee, which always makes me think of a mossy forest floor.

Thank you!

A mossy forest floor sounds so green and serene.

 

[Dorje123]

The last green fragrance I've tried recently is PdM Greenley.

On one side, it has some really nice citrus, fruity and green accords that I think are well done, but on the other, they sit atop a synthetic mess of aromachemicals that use far too much iso-e super and ambroxan along with some tenacious musks. It doesn't take too long for the good part to fade and leave you with a generic, synthetic-smelling drydown that's impossible to fully scrub off. Believe me, I tried...

The fact this is over $300 seems insane, this feels like the work of a beginner perfumer. You're probably better off spending $12 on a Bogart like One Man Show Emerald or something. I have a few $30 Bentley fragrances that are far superior. I'm not sure I'd ever be willing to spray this on myself again, and it makes me hesitant to want to try any other PdM fragrances.

 

[Franco65]

The last green fragrance I've tried recently is PdM Greenley.

On one side, it has some really nice citrus, fruity and green accords that I think are well done, but on the other, they sit atop a synthetic mess of aromachemicals that use far too much iso-e super and ambroxan along with some tenacious musks. It doesn't take too long for the good part to fade and leave you with a generic, synthetic-smelling drydown that's impossible to fully scrub off. Believe me, I tried...

The fact this is over $300 seems insane, this feels like the work of a beginner perfumer. You're probably better off spending $12 on a Bogart like One Man Show Emerald or something. I have a few $30 Bentley fragrances that are far superior. I'm not sure I'd ever be willing to spray this on myself again, and it makes me hesitant to want to try any other PdM fragrances.

I'd like to hear your opinion on 10 and 20 by Bogue Profumo.....

 

[strangelight]

Thank you!

A mossy forest floor sounds so green and serene.

Be warned that it's quite masculine, especially by modern day standards. As someone with no memory of the days when there was loads oakmoss in everything in perfumery, the opening was a bit of a shock for me the first time - but then kept going back to it.
It's very green, but perhaps not serene depending on your tastes!
A very different green that's just come to mind is Erawan - more of a soft herbal green with a gourmand touch, very spring friendly. It's not a personal favourite but it's unique and feels well made.

 

[Dorje123]

I'd like to hear your opinion on 10 and 20 by Bogue Profumo.....

I've only tried Maai and a Bogue cologne when they first started, I remember liking them. I have recently tried Zoologist T-Rex by Gardoni and liked it as well. I'd definitely be into trying the latest offerings as well as revisiting Maai.

 

[kosui no kaori]

The last green fragrance I've tried recently is PdM Greenley.

On one side, it has some really nice citrus, fruity and green accords that I think are well done, but on the other, they sit atop a synthetic mess of aromachemicals that use far too much iso-e super and ambroxan along with some tenacious musks. It doesn't take too long for the good part to fade and leave you with a generic, synthetic-smelling drydown that's impossible to fully scrub off. Believe me, I tried...

The fact this is over $300 seems insane, this feels like the work of a beginner perfumer. You're probably better off spending $12 on a Bogart like One Man Show Emerald or something. I have a few $30 Bentley fragrances that are far superior. I'm not sure I'd ever be willing to spray this on myself again, and it makes me hesitant to want to try any other PdM fragrances.

This was a very important read - thank you.

I own PdM Pegasus (a blind buy), but have yet to crack it open. Thank goodness I never came across Greenley, then!

 

[kosui no kaori]

Be warned that it's quite masculine, especially by modern day standards. As someone with no memory of the days when there was loads oakmoss in everything in perfumery, the opening was a bit of a shock for me the first time - but then kept going back to it.
It's very green, but perhaps not serene depending on your tastes!
A very different green that's just come to mind is Erawan - more of a soft herbal green with a gourmand touch, very spring friendly. It's not a personal favourite but it's unique and feels well made.

Much appreciated, thank you!

 

[_Nicolas_]

So, how's the green sampling going then, Guys? Haven't seen any updates in this thread for a while!

I've just got a 10ml of Nina Ricci's Phileas in the post this morning and GOODNESS GRACIOUS ME!

Opening is so complex that it initially verges on olfactory cacophony to me, and every time I sniff it there's a shift, sometimes very distinct, sometimes quite subtle. Feels like it'll take me weeks to get my head around, perhaps even months! It registers as a more complex version of Caron's Yatagan to many people and I totally get that, but what I didn't expect is a prominent jasmine note that is the first emergent thing from the chaos to my nose. I like its character, indolic and quite 'ripe', reminiscent of the jasmine in Nino Cerruti Pour Homme. Interesting progression with very dry juniper berries, citruses, aldehydes, patchouli all popping up at different stages and then seeming to find their place and merge with the whole movement again. All this seems to happen with the jasmine remaining prominent and largely static, only slightly softening toward the end. Strongly suspect I haven't even reached the 'dry down proper' yet, but I'm getting a sophisticated mix of leather, labdanum and tobacco with the juniper interestingly reappearing!

How is it distinct from Yatagan based on my initial impressions? Well, Yatagan seems much leafier, I'm getting a lighter touch of pine here, no incense and the overall feeling is very different. Smokiness is still present, but to a slighter degree and I think it's probably suggested by the combination of patch and tobacco. Their dryness and earthiness are certainly shared features, but Yatagan has always made me visualise a large landscape painting of something immense, like the Grand Canyon. Phileas isn't that at all to me, it's more of an experience, like tagging along with Indiana Jones in one of his adventures! It's the antithesis of a mass-appealing scent in many ways, but what I'd be very tempted to wear to a Basenotes IRL meetup if I ever went to one, not to impress anyone but because I feel that only keen and/or experienced noses would appreciate it and its peculiar transitions.


After trying my vintage mini of Jacomo Silences PDT, I ordered a 50ml 'discus' bottle of it and was delighted to discover how similar it is to it! Quite linear, but not as much as it initially seemed to be and in many ways a fragrance of contrasts. Will share my impressions of it later when I have more time, but I'm kinda besotted with it, very nice!

 

[ionone]

Jorum Studios - Gorseland

 

[_Nicolas_]

Jorum Studios - Gorseland

This one sounds absolutely fascinating based on the note breakdown! But the mentions of sweetness worry me, as I'm not very fond of it in fragrances. What is the sweetness like, @ionone? I'm guessing it's quite a coconutty sweetness with gorse being a prominent note? Another interesting note is Geranium macrorrhizum, one of my favourite ground cover geraniums in the garden which is adored by bees and has wonderfully fragrant leaves when crushed. I've often wondered why it isn't used in perfumery more often! A must-sample for me, I think.

 

[ionone]

This one sounds absolutely fascinating based on the note breakdown! But the mentions of sweetness worry me, as I'm not very fond of it in fragrances. What is the sweetness like, @ionone? I'm guessing it's quite a coconutty sweetness with gorse being a prominent note? Another interesting note is Geranium macrorrhizum, one of my favourite ground cover geraniums in the garden which is adored by bees and has wonderfully fragrant leaves when crushed. I've often wondered why it isn't used in perfumery more often! A must-sample for me, I think.

it is not super dupa sweet but I like sweetness so you might sample it first, but the house is fire anyway

 

[_Nicolas_]

@ionone Thanks, love my vintage fragrances but I must admit, the fragrance notes for many of this house's perfumes sound really intriguing, might get a sample pack!

 

[kosui no kaori]

So, how's the green sampling going then, Guys? Haven't seen any updates in this thread for a while!

I've just got a 10ml of Nina Ricci's Phileas in the post this morning and GOODNESS GRACIOUS ME!

Opening is so complex that it initially verges on olfactory cacophony to me, and every time I sniff it there's a shift, sometimes very distinct, sometimes quite subtle. Feels like it'll take me weeks to get my head around, perhaps even months! It registers as a more complex version of Caron's Yatagan to many people and I totally get that, but what I didn't expect is a prominent jasmone note that is the first emergent thing from the chaos to my nose. I like its character, indolic and quite 'ripe', reminiscent of the jasmine in Nino Cerruti Pour Homme. Interesting progression with very dry juniper berries, citruses, aldehydes, patchouli all popping out at different stages and then seeming to find their place and merge with the whole movement again. All this seems to happen with the jasmine remaining prominent and largely static, only slightly softening toward the end. Strongly suspect I haven't even reached the 'dry down proper' yet, but I'm getting a sophisticated mix of leather, labdanum and tobacco with the juniper interestingly reappearing!

How is it distinct from Yatagan based on my initial impressions? Well, Yatagan seems much leafier, I'm getting a lighter touch of pine here, no incense and the overall feeling is very different. Smokiness is still present, but to a slighter degree and I think it's probably suggested by the combination of patch and tobacco. Their dryness and earthiness are certainly shared features, but Yatagan has always made me visualise a large landscape painting of something immense, like the Grand Canyon. Phileas isn't that at all to me, it's more of an experience, like tagging along with Indiana Jones in one of his adventures! It's the antithesis of a mass-appealing scent in many ways, but what I'd be very tempted to wear to a Basenotes IRL meetup if I ever went to one, not to impress anyone but because I feel that only keen and/or experienced noses would appreciate it and its peculiar transitions.


After trying my vintage mini of Jacomo Silences PDT, I ordered a 50ml 'discus' bottle of it and was delighted to discover how similar it is to it! Quite linear, but not as much as it initially seemed to be and in many ways a fragrance of contrasts. Will share my impressions of it later when I have more time, but I'm kinda besotted with it, very nice!

This is wonderful! I loved reading this, and I’m so glad that you enjoyed the Phileas and Jacomo Silences … definitely looking forward to hearing your further impressions.

I have some catching up to do … sampled L’Ombre Dans L’eau (edt and edp) with the wonderful @Tea_Lilly the other day, and have a whole bunch of new greens to test out!

 

[kosui no kaori]

Kicked off Round Two today with Parfum Satori Hyouge with @Tea_Lilly, and wow. We were both immediately won over - it’s a beautiful, beautiful fragrance. Just perfect, from beginning to end.

I blind bought a FB, assuming that I would like (if not love) it - and I was not wrong.

 

[Reiu]

Kicked off Round Two today with Parfum Satori Hyouge with @Tea_Lilly, and wow. We were both immediately won over - it’s a beautiful, beautiful fragrance. Just perfect, from beginning to end.

I blind bought a FB, assuming that I would like (if not love) it - and I was not wrong.

I'm so glad to hear that!

 

[kosui no kaori]

I'm so glad to hear that!

It is absolutely gorgeous!

Everything you said it would be 🙂

 

[Schubertian]

I put Hyouge on my test list

A very different green that's just come to mind is Erawan - more of a soft herbal green with a gourmand touch, very spring friendly. It's not a personal favourite but it's unique and feels well made.

I tried a sample of Erawan and it underwent the strangest transformation - from very aromatic green (which I loved) to a kind of non-sweet vanilla - nice, but somehow the two parts didn't cohere. It's a weird scent on me, almost like wearing two different perfumes. But definitely interesting and worth a try.

Jorum Studios - Gorseland

Jorum Studios is so interesting! I really like what Euan McCall does. Gorseland wasn't quite a love for me (though I really liked Highland Rose), but I just bought a bottle of Elegy and will update once I've worn it properly.

 

[sunnymitra]

It has to be Jules by Dior from 1981 for me, the formulation in the brown bottle with the cream writing, which came in a white and multicoloured striped box. A grassy, animalic and leathery beast of a scent quite unlike anything else made at the time, or since, and the best masculine release from Dior, IMHO. A crude comparison would be that Jules is a hybrid, of sorts, of Kouros and Quorum, and it seems to contain elements of both, but of the 3 I like it the most and find an incense-like accord in the drydown, which is lacking in the other 2. Utterly distinctive and supremely potent in terms of projection and staying power, as I can smell vintage Jules on me a full 16 hours or more after applying a few sprays, and even longer on clothing. The more recent reformulation is a passable and more palatable copy, but the original Jules is a pleasure to wear from start to finish, a virile green masterpiece.

 

[kosui no kaori]

It has to be Jules by Dior from 1981 for me, the formulation in the brown bottle with the cream writing, which came in a white and multicoloured striped box. A grassy, animalic and leathery beast of a scent quite unlike anything else made at the time, or since, and the best masculine release from Dior, IMHO. A crude comparison would be that Jules is a hybrid, of sorts, of Kouros and Quorum, and it seems to contain elements of both, but of the 3 I like it the most and find an incense-like accord in the drydown, which is lacking in the other 2. Utterly distinctive and supremely potent in terms of projection and staying power, as I can smell vintage Jules on me a full 16 hours or more after applying a few sprays, and even longer on clothing. The more recent reformulation is a passable and more palatable copy, but the original Jules is a pleasure to wear from start to finish, a virile green masterpiece.

Thank you, @sunnymitra!

 

[kosui no kaori]

I put Hyouge on my test list


I tried a sample of Erawan and it underwent the strangest transformation - from very aromatic green (which I loved) to a kind of non-sweet vanilla - nice, but somehow the two parts didn't cohere. It's a weird scent on me, almost like wearing two different perfumes. But definitely interesting and worth a try.

Jorum Studios is so interesting! I really like what Euan McCall does. Gorseland wasn't quite a love for me (though I really liked Highland Rose), but I just bought a bottle of Elegy and will update once I've worn it properly.

Wonderful!

I’m looking forward to your thoughts on Hyouge 🙂

 

[thesacredsaguaro]

Roja Apex is probably my favorite green scent at the moment. I was really confused seeing people compare it to blue scents and saying it smells like Savauge. I was blown away when I finally wore it though. The opening is like a fresh cypress forest on a rainy day while a gentle breeze carrying the scent of far away florals melt into overly ripe pineapple and citrus. But then out of nowhere a gorgeous, modern oakmoss accord rips its way through jet black leather while an ashy cigar-like incense note shows up and settles into a wonderful chypre style drydown. Just the whole fragrance is expertly blended. The parfum(edp?) version feels incredibly thick for a mainstream niche composition.

 

[kosui no kaori]

Roja Apex is probably my favorite green scent at the moment. I was really confused seeing people compare it to blue scents and saying it smells like Savauge. I was blown away when I finally wore it though. The opening is like a fresh cypress forest on a rainy day while a gentle breeze carrying the scent of far away florals melt into overly ripe pineapple and citrus. But then out of nowhere a gorgeous, modern oakmoss accord rips its way through jet black leather while an ashy cigar-like incense note shows up and settles into a wonderful chypre style drydown. Just the whole fragrance is expertly blended. The parfum(edp?) version feels incredibly thick for a mainstream niche composition.

This sounds beautiful.