Ylang Ylang ifra

[Italian pigeon musk]

Ylang Ylang is restricted to.73% if Im correct.
If I have a formula with Ylang Ylang 1st fraction and Ylang Ylang complete nosy b , would the total of those two materials need to fall under the .73 in the finished fragrance?

 

[pkiler]

You need to first discern what molecule(s) are causing this restriction...?
1st fraction and complete have different molecules, and ratio blend of molecules, and that some are shared, some maybe not.

"Ylang" is available in many versions, and those restrictions are from something that may or may not be highly present in some of the versions, changing the restriction level.

 

[RomanB]

Ylang is limited due to isoeugenol. Hm-hm.

 

[ourmess]

All ylang extractions are limited per se. You can see under the Synonyms section that the restriction applies to all of those materials, and the restriction is on their combined sum total across your entire project.

 

[pkiler]

Also seems like Methyl Eugenol plays a part in the restriction.
So, Ylang Extra Superior is not likely as restricted, due to different molecular makeup.
Have not seen a GC for Extra Superior (would love to...), but I would bet that ME and Iso Eugenol are present in much lower Qty.

 

[Casper_grassy]

What PK says applies to all naturals, this is why reputable suppliers are extremely important who offer lab results for batches.
And regardless of which molecules are a cause for concern, it’d be best to highball that molecules % in a natural (or even a base for that matter).

To answer your question you should find their respective sds’s and move forward from there. Also if something is performing and smelling how you want, don’t be afraid to lower the final concentration to be in “safe” limits, there’s a chance that lowering something from 20-18% concentration probably won’t completely change a fragrance.

 

[jfrater]

Yes - 0.73 is for all forms of ylang combined, all fractions added up - Extra, superior xtra (as used by Chanel), III, I, Ylang Ylang complete, lisylang Robertet, etc.

I wrote a guide on IFRA guildelines here which explains how you can break the rule if you know the exact composition - best done with a GCMS and not by guesswork or using safety data sheets which are intentionally obtuse. Instead you can calculate using things called "endpoints". Funnily enough I used Ylang as my example oil in that guide.

 

[Italian pigeon musk]

Looks like I'd have to drop the dilution to 11% concentration for the ylang to be compliant.

 

[RomanB]

Also seems like Methyl Eugenol plays a part in the restriction.
So, Ylang Extra Superior is not likely as restricted, due to different molecular makeup.
Have not seen a GC for Extra Superior (would love to...), but I would bet that ME and Iso Eugenol are present in much lower Qty.

Extra Superior grade from Comores and Mayotte has the following typical composition, in %:
prenyl acetate: 1,5-3,2
p-cresyl methyl ether: 7,0-13,0
methyl benzoate: 4,5-8,0
linalool: 8,0 - 13,0
benzyl acetate: 14,0 - 20,0
geraniol: 0,1 - 0,7
geranyl acetate: 2,0 - 6,0
(E)-cinnamyl acetate: 4,0 - 6,0
Beta-caryophyllene: 2,0 - 6,0
Germacrene D: 9,0 - 15,0
(E,E)-alpha-farnesene: 2,0 - 6,0
(E,E)-farnesol: 0,8 - 1,5
benzyl benzoate: 3,0 - 6,0
(Z)-cinnamyl acetate: 1,0 - 3,0
benzyl salicylate: 1,5 - 3,5

For extra grade, there is 0,3% safrole, 0,2% isoeugenol, 0,2% eugenol, 0,1% p-cresol. No traces of methyl eugenol or isoeugenol. So the restriction seems to be again detached from reality.
___
Italian pigeon musk, you can mix and use the composition above as a base instead of using real Ylang limited by IFRA. Use synthetic cinnamyl acetate. Drop off farnesol and farnesene - they don't project from skin anyway, and Germacrene D too - it is obtainable, but ridiculously expensive for its effect. Add some Copaiba balsam instead (2-5%). Don't forget a tiny bit of p-Cresol, it is so powerful that will be still pronounced in the mixture.

 

[parker25mv]

and Germacrene D too - it is obtainable, but ridiculously expensive for its effect.

Calendula essential oil can be useful because it contains relatively high levels of Germacrene D (over 5%, which is surprisingly high).

 

[jfrater]

Looks like I'd have to drop the dilution to 11% concentration for the ylang to be compliant.

I have this alternative - it has a LOT of natural ylang and is IFRA 49 safe to 7.4%. Alternatively just use ylang to the max and boost it with benzyl acetate - no need to get too complex. It is easy to produce mud with ylang related materials if they are not perfectly balanced.

 

[RomanB]

Calendula essential oil can be useful because it contains relatively high levels of Germacrene D (over 5%, which is surprisingly high).

Recently I worked on honeysuckle absolute base, it should have a lot of Germacrene D. I failed to find anything to convincingly replace it yet. Also, the natural flower emanates some unusual aldehyde, it isn't seen as such on various GC/MS, but definitely something interesting is present.

 

[Italian pigeon musk]

I have this alternative - it has a LOT of natural ylang and is IFRA 49 safe to 7.4%. Alternatively just use ylang to the max and boost it with benzyl acetate - no need to get too complex. It is easy to produce mud with ylang related materials if they are not perfectly balanced.

That's funny, the name of my fragrance is myrrh Imperial and it's a Ylang and opoponax forward scent, and I think it's perfect, but just looking into the ifra restrictions my Ylang adds up to around 1.2% in a 20% concentration,
You may have a great solution here for me. I may have to try this In the formula and see how it works.
What do mean by boost with benzyl acetate?

 

[pkiler]

What do mean by boost with benzyl acetate?

Just add more.

 

[jfrater]

That's funny, the name of my fragrance is myrrh Imperial and it's a Ylang and opoponax forward scent, and I think it's perfect, but just looking into the ifra restrictions my Ylang adds up to around 1.2% in a 20% concentration,
You may have a great solution here for me. I may have to try this In the formula and see how it works.
What do mean by boost with benzyl acetate?

As Paul said, if you have 50 Ylang Ylang and you are only allowed 40, put 40 Ylang and 10 Benzyl Acetate - play around with the Bz Acetate to keep the profile - real ylang has less but with a chemical out of the context of the flower itself you really have to use trial and error to know how best to get the result you want.

Also it is worth considering the oil type. If your formula is Ylang Ylang Extra or Ylang Complete, then switching to Ylang Ylang Superior Extra you will need less because it has such a wonderful and penetrating top note that you will probably feel the same power. By the time you get to Ylang Ylang III you are really just adding mid note floralcy as its top notes are rather uninteresting and mild.