Worst Reformulations Vs Respectable Reformulations ?

[david]

I know these threads have been done before, but maybe it's time to update and get fresh opinions.

I think most people agree that Kouros and Fahrenheit belong to the worst reformulations, whereas Egoiste has fared well and is true to the original formula.
I also think the newer rectangular flacon for Insensé is almost, (if not the same) as the original release.

Curious to know your thoughts on Versace L'Homme and the many others that have undergone major surgery...

 

[Sheik Yerbouti]

Eau Sauvage EdT- been stripped of oakmoss which has left the scent too diluted and lacking complexity. Go back to at least 1990s for a truer Eau Sauvage experience. Now just weak lemon juice - Bad

Cool Water - a great original scent that was killed off around the mid 2000s. Every aspect of the scent cheapened. So bad.

Antaeus - the original spirit has remained but the scent and its progression has changed. Beeswax, oakmoss and mossy notes stripped out. It still has a good aldehydic heady top, still 80s but less so and has a wonderful but altogether different warm leathery drydown. Better than average reformulation by Chanel.

Boss (Number One) - original was far too urinous. Remember walking past old men that smelled pissy in their suits? - was probably the original. The newer Number One has had the offending note removed and now works as something clean and class. The reformulation is a rare improvement on the original IMHO.

 

[Jack Hunter]

Havana by Aramis is a good reformulation.

 

[motorcade]

I know there are people here who vehemently disagree, but I think the Giorgio Beverly Hills reformulations are respectable. And with that I mean you must remember the reformulations must be done within the current restrictions.

As for Fahrenheit, it's one of the very few exceptions, where I think I might prefer the reformulation (2019 vs. late 80's one)! Actually, I like to wear them layered with each other.

 

[cpp214]

Boss (Number One) - original was far too urinous. Remember walking past old men that smelled pissy in their suits? - was probably the original. The newer Number One has had the offending note removed and now works as something clean and class. The reformulation is a rare improvement on the original IMHO.

Havana by Aramis is a good reformulation.

I know there are people here who vehemently disagree, but I think the Giorgio Beverly Hills reformulations are respectable. And with that I mean you must remember the reformulations must be done within the current restrictions.

As for Fahrenheit, it's one of the very few exceptions, where I think I might prefer the reformulation (2019 vs. late 80's one)! Actually, I like to wear them layered with each other.

Totally agree with all of these. Wearing a 2019 batch of Fahrenheit today and I honestly wouldn't trade it for a vintage bottle.

For me a few of the worst reformulations are:

Esencia Loewe
Lalique Pour Homme EDP
Dunhill Edition
Dolce and Gabbana Pour Homme
Versace L'Homme
L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme

I've come around to reformulations in the past few years, and rarely seek out vintage bottles anymore. The ones I listed above are the ones that I absolutely wouldn't buy in the current version. That's honestly not a huge list. However, the list of fragrances that I think have been reformulated very well is probably too long to list, but I'll give it a try:

Great reformulations:

Guerlain Vetiver
Versace the Dreamer
Terre D'Hermes
Prada Amber Pour Homme
Dior Fahrenheit
Dior Homme Intense
Dior Eau Sauvage Parfum (2017 version vs 2012)
Davidoff Zino (prefer it to the vintage, which smells like rotting fruit to me)
Azzaro Pour Homme
Jaipur Homme EDP

 

[hednic]

Most current releases of classic fragrances for me have fared well.

 

[speedracer]

Kinda obscure but the reformulation of Express Reserve was a big disappointment.


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[ILikePeeps]

Most noticeable/notable reforms:

Kouros - for sure, but I may revisit; the 2020 was very different, it's like it lost the honeyed base/drydown - I found that very surprising.
Chanel A Gentleman's Cologne / Pour Monsieur EdT - now this could be due to age primarily, but they do smell different. Both excellent.
Eau d'Hermes - still excellent, but I feel I smelled a more cinnamon smell in the latest (or one of the latest) reforms, black cap.
Caron Pour Un Homme - it seems pretty consistent with some quirks, except for the MASSIVELY different ~80's/90's rounded black cap, that one is wayyy different. It's like the same fragrance throughout history, in my experience, with the newer stuff maybe having a more Play-Doh type smell to it. But then whatever the heck happened in the 80's or so, they made a MONSTER, a glorious animalic chewy musk monster, and I've only experienced it in the rounded black cap version, lol. And the lavender might present more herbal/bitter in some, and more calm in others.
Eau Sauvage Parfum 2012/2017 - was this sold distinctly as a different fragrance? If so, disregard.
Acqua di Parma Colonia - the stuff from ~2000 is heavier and bit more challenging to wear; it's not as bright and fresh.
Terre d'Hermes - not as 'musky' on the newer stuff starting in ~2014/2015 timeframe, I guess? The newer stuff is more polite and easy.
Fahrenheit - the newer stuff I had was more of a candied violet smell in there, that I don't get from vintage. I don't know if they reformed Fahrenheit like 2 or 3 times just in the past 4 years, but whatever latest bottle I had (I think late 2018 to early 2020 batch code? Can't remember) is quite different. Still Fahrenheit, but different. Funnily enough I do NOT prefer the original 1988 stuff; the 90's hits the mark for me. I have no idea if the formula is different, but my preference is 90's bottles.

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Good/Great reforms:

Jaipur Homme EdP - no noticeable difference to me.
Versace L'Homme - I've had multiple bottles of varying eras, they basically smell the same!
Dior Leather Oud - first formula was a bit more rugged, the one following is smoother. Both great!
Dior Homme Intense - seems they lessened the whole heavy sweetness in the base and made it more balanced. I find this easier to wear and still smells great!
Le Male - basically smells the same to me! Maybe BPI screwed up for a while there, but my 90's or whatever and my newer 2020 or so are excellent. I love the new stuff.


There's more, but yeah.

 

[ILikePeeps]

Boss (Number One) - original was far too urinous. Remember walking past old men that smelled pissy in their suits? - was probably the original. The newer Number One has had the offending note removed and now works as something clean and class. The reformulation is a rare improvement on the original IMHO.

Interesting! I've been interested in this one, you just pushed me to go acquire a modern bottle, thanks!

 

[Brian5701]

CK Obsession for Men. When I hear younger folks trashing this today, all I can do is agree. I think this applies to pretty much all the CK classics (Eternity, Escape, CK One), but Obsession is the most unrecognizable. I mean, these were luxury products at one time.

 

[Sheik Yerbouti]

Interesting! I've been interested in this one, you just pushed me to go acquire a modern bottle, thanks!

There are two versions currently available of Boss Number One. I am talking about the first one (125ml) Made In Spain. Sneakily the new one has been reduced to 100ml and I don’t know if the scent is the same or another reformulation.

 

[Ken_Russell]

Bad reformulations-likely Trussardi Uomo, turned from a niche tier luxury beast mode powerhouse into a completely different sweet, commonplace designer fad

Reformulations raging from decent even to downright good- One Man Show along with possibly other Bogarts, Joop Homme, some if not most of the masculine Jaguar scents

 

[Sandy]

Bad reformulations-likely Trussardi Uomo, turned from a niche tier luxury beast mode powerhouse into a completely different sweet, commonplace designer fad

Reformulations raging from decent even to downright good- One Man Show along with possibly other Bogarts, Joop Homme, some if not most of the masculine Jaguar scents

OMG, what a beauty Trussardi Uomo was 30 years ago... on my very first trip to The West from our Communism, I bought two bottles.

 

[Ken_Russell]

OMG, what a beauty Trussardi Uomo was 30 years ago... on my very first trip to The West from our Communism, I bought two bottles.

Indeed yes, incidentally this fragrance being among the first but also the best memories as to how vintage designer perfumery can succeed and impress

 

[yourthemannowdog]

some bad Reformulations there are many many more
obsession
red for men
coolwater
kouros
polo green
safari
qourum
Halston 1-12
Halston z14

Versace L'Homme i i owned the newest formulation and found it was almost like dreamer after the top notes faded

 

[Foamywax]

Eau Sauvage EdT- been stripped of oakmoss which has left the scent too diluted and lacking complexity. Go back to at least 1990s for a truer Eau Sauvage experience. Now just weak lemon juice - Bad

Cool Water - a great original scent that was killed off around the mid 2000s. Every aspect of the scent cheapened. So bad.

Antaeus - the original spirit has remained but the scent and its progression has changed. Beeswax, oakmoss and mossy notes stripped out. It still has a good aldehydic heady top, still 80s but less so and has a wonderful but altogether different warm leathery drydown. Better than average reformulation by Chanel.

Boss (Number One) - original was far too urinous. Remember walking past old men that smelled pissy in their suits? - was probably the original. The newer Number One has had the offending note removed and now works as something clean and class. The reformulation is a rare improvement on the original IMHO.

I agree Cool Water is now something very different and not in a good way. Why they did this I don't know.
I doubt original cool water had expensive ingredients in it's formula.

 

[motorcade]

Most current releases of classic fragrances for me have fared well.

In my much more limited experience: yes.

Of the couple of dozen I've tested side by side in the past year, the vast majority of reformulations have fared surprisingly well against their vintage counterpart. Some exceptions that come to mind are Capucci pour Homme, YSL Jazz and Soprani Uomo.

This has led me to the realization: if I love the current offering, there's a high likelihood the vintage will not be "worth it" comparatively speaking (of course, if I need a backup or the price is very tempting, it's another story). When I first decided to take the plunge down the "vintage rabbit hole", my expectations were certainly overblown in hindsight but that's alright, as this is just a hobby and it's ok to be enthusiastic (wow, what a drab way to phrase it, lol).

Reformulations raging from decent even to downright good- One Man Show
[...]
some if not most of the masculine Jaguar scents

Completely agree on One Man Show and Jaguar for Men.

 

[meadeweber]

The most recent Chanel Pour Monsieur EDT is a great reformation. I recently had an opportunity to try it side by side with a vintage formulation and preferred the modern version although they were fairly similar.

 

[ImaFedec]

I have not been in this hobby long enough, but I have recently purchased New York Intense (only 100ml bottle in my collection) and apparently it is a noticeable improvement from the first formulation (which is especially impressive due to IRFA (?)).

 

[Emanuel76]

Respectable reformulations:

Czech & Speake - Citrus Paradisi
Vintage - 9/10
Current - 9/10
They are not exactly the same. It's a matter of taste. I love both. Even if the formulas differ a little bit - they traded the civet for more spices and ambergris - for me they are just as good.

Frederic Malle - Portrait of a Lady
Vintage - 10/10
Current - 9/10

Tauer - L'air du Desert Marocain
Vintage - 9.5-10/10
Current - 8/10 (amplified petitgrain covering the part I liked the most)

Aramis - Havana
Vintage - 10/10
Current - 8/10

Dior - Eau Sauvage
Vintage - 9/10
Current - 7/10

Chanel - Egoiste
Vintage - 9/10
Current - 7/10

Chanel - Antaeus
Vintage - 9/10
Current - 7/10

Azzaro pour Homme
Vintage - 9/10
Current - 7/10

Hermes - Equipage
Vintage - 8.5/10 (too much leather aroma chemicals)
Current - 7/10 (too much detergent musk)

Etro - Patchouly (cold weather only, both)
Vintage - 10/10
Current - 7.5/10

Etro - Messe de Minuit
Vintage - 9/10
Current - 7.5/10

Etro - Sandalo
Vintage - 9/10
Current - 7.5/10

Etro - Palais Jamais
Vintage - 9/10
Current - 7.5/10

Etro - Heliotrope
Vintage - 7.5/10
Current - 7.5/10
The vintage version is better, but they blundered the top notes.
The recent version does not have this problem, but it is not so rich, and the warm-fat slightly dirty musk is missing. But it's nice.




Worst reformulation:

Xerjoff - Irisss
Vintage - 10/10
Current - 1/10 (boatload of nasty fixatives)

Congratulations, Xerjoff!
I don't think there will ever be an bigger moron.




My favorite patchouly :happy::

 

[ILikePeeps]

There are two versions currently available of Boss Number One. I am talking about the first one (125ml) Made In Spain. Sneakily the new one has been reduced to 100ml and I don’t know if the scent is the same or another reformulation.

View attachment 160072

 

[checkmate]

Some of the worst reformulations I can think of are:

Halston Z-14
Dolce & Gabbana PH
Armani Eau PH
Eau Savage EDT
Cool Water by Davidoff
Quorum
Safari by RL
Montana Parfum D’Homme (red box)
Caron Pour Un Homme
Azzaro PH
Azzaro Acteur
Krizia Uomo
Versace L’Homme
Eternity and Obsession by CK
Xeryus Rouge by Givenchy
Capucci PH
Chanel No 19

 

[knightowl]

Red for Men

They definetly ruined it. Bought it when it first came out and really enjoyed it. Now many years later the dry down just turns into a nasty chemical mess. sad.

 

[ChuckW]

Great thread. Worth the reboot.

 

[yourthemannowdog]

Red for Men

They definetly ruined it. Bought it when it first came out and really enjoyed it. Now many years later the dry down just turns into a nasty chemical mess. sad.

yeah its been ruined since ea fragrances picked it up . wings and gbh made it ok just not as good as before but red was butchered

 

[Foamywax]

My '16 batch of Obsession is pretty damn good.
I wore four sprays of Eternity the other day and it was really good-I got compliments and lasted well.
It's not the beast it used to be but I like it very much now I don't need it to scream "I'm wearing eternity". I bought the deo stick yesterday as well and was surprised at how good it is too.

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

It's all subjective based on one's perception of formulations.

In my case, my preference is only for original formulations as I want to experience the scent at the time of its original release.

 

[motorcade]

Red for Men

They definetly ruined it. Bought it when it first came out and really enjoyed it. Now many years later the dry down just turns into a nasty chemical mess. sad.

yeah its been ruined since ea fragrances picked it up . wings and gbh made it ok just not as good as before but red was butchered

Comparing the "Cologne Spray" side by side with a 2019 Made in Spain, "ruined" and "butchered" are hardly the adjectives that first come to my mind. Sure, the base feels watered down and meh in comparison, which is to be expected.

 

[Brooks Otterlake]

Anyone who's reading this thread, please take it (and my thoughts that follow) with a grain of salt. This is all highly subjective, and I already see a number of things mentioned in here where I've compared vintage to current and haven't found terribly much difference. (Remember also fragrances change as they age.)

Here are two I've personally found notable:

Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta - The early and late versions of this fragrance are effectively different scents altogether. I picked up a very early bottle and was surprised by the stark difference. I do actually like both versions, but the original vintage is a much more old-school, classic EDC, while the later version is very modern.

Herrera for Men - The difference between my 2006 bottle and the more recent stuff is pretty stark. The citrus/lemon note is less rich, even shrill, and the curried tobacco base lacks definition. Older is the way to go here.

 

[Foamywax]

I'm gonna have to agree on L'instant edt.
Although Wasser did an interesting job tinkering with it..
The current batches do seem a little too light.
Could be my batch but I see someone mentioned this at the beginning of the thread. I would swear my old bottle from 2005 was more rich and longer lasting. Maybe it was meant to be more delicate.
Update: I'm wearing L'instant now and it's fantastic. Other people swear it's the same as the older style bottle. I just can't be 100% sure. All I know is that the new version smells great.

 

[Foamywax]

Anyone who's reading this thread, please take it (and my thoughts that follow) with a grain of salt. This is all highly subjective, and I already see a number of things mentioned in here where I've compared vintage to current and haven't found terribly much difference. (Remember also fragrances change as they age.)

Here are two I've personally found notable:

Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta - The early and late versions of this fragrance are effectively different scents altogether. I picked up a very early bottle and was surprised by the stark difference. I do actually like both versions, but the original vintage is a much more old-school, classic EDC, while the later version is very modern.

Herrera for Men - The difference between my 2006 bottle and the more recent stuff is pretty stark. The citrus/lemon note is less rich, even shrill, and the curried tobacco base lacks definition. Older is the way to go here.

Herrera for men is a 30 yo scent so I wouldn't be surprised if something's different. They may have cheapened it a bit or maybe due to restrictions it just isn't the same anymore.

 

[Monsieur Montana]

Kouros and Versace L' Homme have been destroyed along the years. Farenheit's latest version is good.
I haven't smelled the current version of Egoiste because i strongly dislike the vintage one and completely lost interest in it (and along with this the need of testing the current version)
I think that the majority of perfumes that lasted in time have suffered in their reformulated versions (in different extensions), some more some less.
The only reformulations i prefer to the original vintage ones are Quorum and Jules. The originals are monsters of sillage and i perceive them as extremelly heavy and not easy to wear (that doesn't mean that i dislike them, i just consider the reformulations much more wearable).

 

[Darvant]

Havana by Aramis is a good reformulation.

Definitely. Aramis is the top on the classics preservation.

 

[stuigi]

Havana by Aramis is a good reformulation.

+1 I was about to say that.

 

[Monsieur Montana]

Definitely. Aramis is the top on the classics preservation.

Forgot this one too. Thanks for reminding Darvant.

 

[Darvant]

Forgot this one too. Thanks for reminding Darvant.

Hi Niky, you are far more knowledgeable than me on the reformulations-affair. ��

 

[Ifti]

yeah its been ruined since ea fragrances picked it up . wings and gbh made it ok just not as good as before but red was butchered

Ah. Lol just got the Red itch again. bought and moved on 3 on in my time so far
I think I'm more ready for it now

 

[Ifti]

Pour Lui is pretty solid in its current state. Just a few months stewing and you're with gas!!

 

[Brian5701]

Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta - The early and late versions of this fragrance are effectively different scents altogether. I picked up a very early bottle and was surprised by the stark difference. I do actually like both versions, but the original vintage is a much more old-school, classic EDC, while the later version is very modern.

Interesting. I will have to sample this one again. I wasn't aware of a reformulation.

 

[magnnum]

Pascal Morabito's Or Black (2014) is a very respectable reformulation.