Why nobody talks about Annick Goutal anymore?

Andrei Bolkonsky

Basenotes Dependent
Feb 20, 2020
A few years back, Annick Goutal was revered here at the forum. One of her perfumes was particularly admired: Eau D'Hadrien. But she had many other perfumes that were considered masterpieces too. Some are now discontinued, such as Myrrhe Ardente, which I love.

What has happened? What can explain this apparent disdain for such a great house? I can see that now, with the proliferation of niche houses, other houses became trendy, such as Xerjoff, which I know nothing about, but find the name extremely funny.

There is definitely a continuous shifting of trends occurring at basenotes.

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Andrei Bolkonsky

Basenotes Dependent
Feb 20, 2020
I would like to add the house of Diptyque to this discussion too. It has vanished from the forum. Even masterpieces such as L'Ombre dan L'Eau are not mentioned anymore.
 

Kaern

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 2, 2008
For me, Diptyque are a good house. I find their fragrances a little one-dimensional though and a few would serve better as room sprays.

Annick Goutal has had a major overhaul and a lot of their fragrances have been reformulated to coincide with the new packaging and bottles.
 

Andrei Bolkonsky

Basenotes Dependent
Feb 20, 2020
For me, Diptyque are a good house. I find their fragrances a little one-dimensional though and a few would serve better as room sprays.Annick Goutal has had a major overhaul and a lot of their fragrances have been reformulated to coincide with the new packaging and bottles.

Nobody talks about Lutens anymore either!
 

hednic

Basenotes Institution
Oct 25, 2007
I feel that both Diptyque and Annick Goutal still get their fair share of discussion. Two fine houses.
 

Kaern

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 2, 2008
Nobody talks about Lutens anymore either!

Just this morning did I have the very same feeling. Fumerie Turque being among the top three scents ever, I a little bit wonder, why.

Lutens is a very polarizing House imo -- you don't find many people saying they are just ok and they are not the sort of House to use 'shills' to begin threads.

I think they do ok here. Most houses do a lot worse.
 

Andrei Bolkonsky

Basenotes Dependent
Feb 20, 2020
Just this morning did I have the very same feeling. Fumerie Turque being among the top three scents ever, I a little bit wonder, why.


Fashion, trends, do take place in here. The feverish devotion to certain houses seem to wane and people focus on other things, such as the dreaded Xerjoffs/jackoffs.
 

ccdan

Basenotes Junkie
May 7, 2017
Because some others came along and stole the show: Creed, TF PB, Amouage, Xerjoff, Frederic Malle, MFK, Roja, Dior Privee, Armani Prive - their frags are more expensive, but also more impressive, and thus generate a lot of interest.

And of course, the whole niche scene is a lot more crowded with many relatively small players that do attract attention from time to time with some interesting frags here and there like Nicolai, Tauer, Comme des Garcons, Heeley, Ormonde Jayne, Puredistance, Nishane and many, many others.
 

Lellabelle

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 16, 2015
Changing ownerships, reformulations and significant price increases have all played a part. I used to follow Lutens and Goutal with interest. Both could be counted on for quality and originality. I look elsewhere now.
 

deltasun

Basenotes Dependent
Jun 12, 2017
I like the existing offerings from Annick Goutal, but I don't think they've released anything new in the past few years? Diptyque is still churning them out, but I've not really jibed with their last few offerings. Oddly enough, I really enjoyed Fleur de Peau (which seemed so unlikely - floral musk) and that was my last full bottle from the house.

Both are quality houses.
 

Twilight99

Basenotes Junkie
Nov 23, 2013
Changing ownerships, reformulations and significant price increases have all played a part. I used to follow Lutens and Goutal with interest. Both could be counted on for quality and originality. I look elsewhere now.

This.
 

badarun

Basenotes Institution
Jan 15, 2013
Annick Goutal has had a major overhaul and a lot of their fragrances have been reformulated to coincide with the new packaging and bottles.

^^^This.

I own several older version Goutal's and they're amazing. Vetiver, Myrrhe Ardente, Eau de Monsieur, Eau du Sud, Eau d'Hadrien, Hadrien Absolu were all excellent, but the newer bottles don't have the same jus. If you find older version bottles, go for it.
 

The Bark

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 24, 2003
I used to have several that I liked quite a bit (Hadrien Absolu, Les Nuits d'Hadrien, Myrrh Ardent, Duel and Sables come to mind). But, here's the thing: there's been a trend of some of these houses repackaging their products and essentially using that as a justification for raising their prices. L'Artisan and Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier come to mind and it seems they've had similar results. Part of it is just the competitiveness of having so many houses out there now, but most people, particularly those who are bargain hunters and have been used to getting some of these brands at big discounts, balk at the repackaging - oftentimes with LESS amounts AND reformulations - don't see the value in the higher prices. I love Hadrien Absolu and bought it maybe 10 - 15 years ago for $65. Though I don't believe it's available any longer, the other scents that have been repackaged appear to have limited distribution and go for $170 for the same size at Saks et al. At that price point, there's just better scents available, imo.
 

RedRaider430

You smell good! 😄
Basenotes Plus
Dec 18, 2011
It does seem that Annick Goutal isn't mentioned as much these days, but how often do they put out new scents?

One of my favorite AG fragrances was Vetiver (in the old style bottle). It was a legit vetiver, too....not one of the ones with only a hint of vetiver that we have so much of today. Did it go out of production? I'm seeing it for very high prices on eBay, and I don't see it at all on places like Fragrancenet.

You're right...Goutal's biggest claim to fame must surely be Eau d'Hadrien. Whenever someone would post an annual thread on, "What's the best lemon scent?", Eau d'Hadrien was always one of the first to be mentioned.
 

Trauerkraut

Basenotes Institution
Nov 14, 2009
They have to take care of their own PR and apparently not much is happening in these houses concerning that aspect: no new perfumes is no news for the rest of the world
 

woodnotes55

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 27, 2016
A few years back, Annick Goutal was revered here at the forum. One of her perfumes was particularly admired: Eau D'Hadrien. But she had many other perfumes that were considered masterpieces too. Some are now discontinued, such as Myrrhe Ardente, which I love.

What has happened? What can explain this apparent disdain for such a great house? I can see that now, with the proliferation of niche houses, other houses became trendy, such as Xerjoff, which I know nothing about, but find the name extremely funny.

There is definitely a continuous shifting of trends occurring at basenotes.

View attachment 125087



Goutal's in my top houses. Have not jumped on the niche train, but it seems that on a site like this much of the buzz will be about something that is new or that is new to the buyers, so you have "wonderful niche house A" getting hyped for however long until the next one comes along.

There may not be posts "Goutal whatever is wonderful", but they seem to still pop up in other posts. For example, I have recommended you try "Nuit Etoilee" for some serious good cedar and fir in at least two other posts!!! Ignore the trends and get a sample!!! It's good stuff.

I hope the comments on reformulation are not right as like quite a few of these and don't want to join the vintage search for more.

As to rating them the least liked Goutal for me is Sables, quite vintage... can't get rid of it, but keep wearing it and just not getting it. All these reviews about maple syrup, but I don't get that at all but get something beyond powerhouse.... maybe the imortelle... something that just seems way too strong.

Eau D'Hadrian and Les Nuits D'Hadrian are good. My favorites are Nuit Etoilee, Mandragore, Vetiver, and Ninfeo Mio.
 

FiveoaksBouquet

Known to SAs
Basenotes Plus
Jul 16, 2004
Goutal is available in the two major department stores here in town but doesn't get anywhere near the buzz or interest it used to have. The salespeople don't promote it. The scents just sort of sit there. This is a far cry from the activity that used to take place around the brand. Where are those cello concerts where they handed out free bottles of Passion and Eau d'Hadrien? The visits of Camille Goutal and other staff from Paris to introduce limited editions? Calls from SAs to announce the arrival of a new scent or a brand promotion?

Some time ago the brand was purchased by a Korean company, Amorepacific, and the name was changed to La Maison Goutal. They changed all the packaging and while I like the new bottles quite a bit, to me they look more like bottles for a less expensive perfume somehow. Is the brand advertised? No idea where if anywhere. Some scents were discontinued, such as my beloved Tubéreuse, and over the years, even prior to the Amorepacific purchase, the scents were diluted quite a bit and not nearly as potent as they once were but some are still very nice.

I was a big fan of Goutal scents for many years and have quite a few of them. At one point I had ten different format bottles of Les Nuits d'Hadrien! Of today's scents I like L'Île au Thé and still like some of the older ones that come to mind: Gardénia Passion, Eau du Sud, Sables, Songes, Eau de Charlotte, Ambre Fétiche…and so on...

Thanks, Andrei Bolkonsky, for bringing up this topic. It brought to mind some very nice scents that have been lying dormant in the closet for some time. A review is definitely in order.
 

Heawns

Basenotes Junkie
Nov 16, 2008
For me, Diptyque are a good house. I find their fragrances a little one-dimensional though and a few would serve better as room sprays.

Annick Goutal has had a major overhaul and a lot of their fragrances have been reformulated to coincide with the new packaging and bottles.
I've yet to sift thru most of diptyque, but from what I've tried for example Philosykos (EDT) I wouldn't really choose to wear if I bought it. "Is there a fig tree here?"
If I had to pick something similarly green/natural to wear of theirs I'd go with Eau de Lierre, it's more wearable, but also rather classic men's fragrance in a way.
Only fragrance I bought of theirs is Vetyverio EDP, that one is great.

Got discouraged from sampling more diptyque after I tried Tempo which I think is a sweet mess that manages to be both subtle and annoying at the same time. (I'd categorize it as a watered down aka "mature" or "nuanced" version of CdG LUXE patchouli or Etro patchouly EDP (recent form.) --- For reference only patchouli named scent's I've loved are Etro patchouly EDT (recent form, very different from the EDP) and Intrigant patchouli PG, also think Monsieur. is alright albeit a bit too abrasive).
 

Diamondflame

(Almost) Off the Grid
Basenotes Plus
Jun 28, 2009
They have to take care of their own PR and apparently not much is happening in these houses concerning that aspect: no new perfumes is no news for the rest of the world

This, in a nutshell. Compared to a decade ago, the scene is much more crowded today. Without a better signal-to-noise ratio, a brand sinks into obscurity.

IMO the repackaging and upward price alignment only alienated their existing customer base, and did little in attracting new ones who could easily find out about the questionable reformulation and rebottling of old compositions.
 

Ken_Russell

Basenotes Institution
Jan 21, 2006
While admitting to not talk very much about this either, still considering, even eager to (re) try most of the male/unisex citruses too, at which this house seems to excel.
 

Blizzard

Super Member
Jul 5, 2017
Annick Goutal is one of the best houses when it comes to herbal fragrances. While I do not see the house mentioned often here, I almost always enjoy the fragrances that I try from it. In my opinion, the best is Nuit Etoilee, as I find both the EDT and EDP to be outstanding.
 

Andy the frenchy

Basenotes Dependent
Sep 16, 2018
What has happened? What can explain this apparent disdain for such a great house?
There is definitely a continuous shifting of trends occurring at basenotes.
[/ATTACH]

Not really disdain, just a fact of trends.
There hasn't been a major release since a while, they have discontinued a couple of their great ones (Myrrhe Ardente, Vetiver EDT - that has been switched into a useless EDC), and they have increased prices. Furthermore, their new line-up (in new bottles) are not yet discounted in the US, so that doesn't help convince americans to pull the trigger, and the large majority of active BN users are located in the US... realistically, for the full retail of Goutal, one can have discounted Amouage, to cite just one...

There are a couple of pops that I would love to get, but I can;t figure out a current Goutal that would be considered an absolute masterpiece honestly. I wouldn't spend more than $100 for a full bottle. The current $180 is simply a no-go for me.
 

mikeperez23

Be Here. Now.
Basenotes Plus
Dec 31, 2006
Always changing the bottles. First there was one bottle. Then there were two different bottles for the same exact scents. Then they changed that again.

They repackaged a lot of their scents and raised prices. Now they say "Goutal" - they removed "Annick" from the bottles. Why!?

I see them in Saks Fifth Avenue here in Miami and I usually pass them by.
 

dealt7faux

Basenotes Dependent
Apr 24, 2015
Those who are running the company don't seem to know what the hell they are doing. Changing this dropping that and jacking up the prices to boot.
I can't recall the last time I saw advertising for any of their fragrances.
Nobody seems to promote them at all.
 

Beck

Basenotes Dependent
May 13, 2014
Goutal and Lutens marketing team (if there’s any) are not as smart as Creed’s, Parfums de Marly’s, Chanel’s, Dior’s...
 

dougczar

Basenotes Institution
Mar 3, 2012
I am a big fan of many fragrances from Goutal - Not many do lemon better.

There are a lot of houses that don't get enough attention - and not as much as years ago.
 

woodnotes55

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 27, 2016
. In my opinion, the best is Nuit Etoilee, as I find both the EDT and EDP to be outstanding.


This is one of my favorites too.... but... NO!! Not another EDT/EDP thing!!!!! Didn't know there was both..... just checked and I have the EDT. Have to add this along with Lalique (lion) to the "must try EDP" list.
 

Blizzard

Super Member
Jul 5, 2017
This is one of my favorites too.... but... NO!! Not another EDT/EDP thing!!!!! Didn't know there was both..... just checked and I have the EDT. Have to add this along with Lalique (lion) to the "must try EDP" list.

To my nose, the EDP contains all of the notes from the EDT but adds a fair amount of iris to the foreground of the scent. It makes enough of a difference that it is worth owning both, especially if the EDT is one of your favorites.
 

woodnotes55

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 27, 2016
To my nose, the EDP contains all of the notes from the EDT but adds a fair amount of iris to the foreground of the scent. It makes enough of a difference that it is worth owning both, especially if the EDT is one of your favorites.

Well that sounds interesting..... I guess I will have to look for and get the EDP!! Thanks for the review and recommendation.
 

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