When will Chanel move past BdC

[AndyL]

Chanel, Guerlain, Dior... and many more continue to pump out new offerings to their "for him" fragrances. Not including flankers... but for instance:

• L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme (2004), Homme (2008), L'Homme Ideal (2014), Homme Eau de Parfum (2016)
• Dior Homme (2011), Dior Homme (2020)
• Chanel Allure Homme (1999), BdC EDT (2010)

These houses have a history that go back way more than that but at some point Bleu de Chanel will need a successor. It'll never go away in my lifetime probably, but Chanel will need something new as the poster male fragrance. The last release of the line was the Parfum in 2018 but the clock is ticking on its 2010 original release. The fragrance has been hugely successful and influential, it's going to be hard to top it. I'd be interested to hear your take on when and possibly what its successor may be like. Will it more male aligned or soften to a more unisex fragrance?

 

[hednic]

My guess is only when sales of what they currently offer weaken to the point that they feel it warrants a new fragrance.

 

[ultravisitor]

If I could predict what Chanel is going to do next, it would probably be terrible step for them to be taking.

I want them--and not just them, but everyone--to do something that no one could predict.

 

[freewheelingvagabond]

less is more ..........

 

[Oslo-Fjord]

I'm hoping for a new trendsetter that shakes up the industry and makes them envious.

 

[Jean-Clone Ellena]

Perhaps now they are waiting for Dior to move first and then copy accordingly...

 

[AndyL]

My guess is only when sales of what they currently offer weaken to the point that they feel it warrants a new fragrance.

From a purely business perspective, this is certainly a legit strategy... especially if you continue to retain current customers as well new with the current product.

If I could predict what Chanel is going to do next, it would probably be terrible step for them to be taking.

I want them--and not just them, but everyone--to do something that no one could predict.

With tech and AI today they are coming up with new scent molecules all the time. It's sort of an explosive and exciting time. Who knows what the next one will be.

This Startup Is Using AI to Unearth New Smells

• For example, there are very few molecules available that smell like the ocean, Laudamiel says, so a new sea scent would be highly desirable. He’s not sure how the fragrance industry would use the chili pepper one, but he could see it being used for food flavoring.

 

[The Cologne Cabinet]

“Bleu de Chanel Elixir …for the instinctive and electric man who levitates with the intensity and majestic elegance that defies convention.”

$249

 

[Brooks Otterlake]

Perhaps now they are waiting for Dior to move first and then copy accordingly...

Dior Homme 2020 *was* Dior moving first. And Hermès also moved forward with H24. No sign of any action on Chanel's part.

Chanel can afford to be slow to action. To an extent, mainstream fragrance ended in the 2010s (and is currently receiving hospice care). In fact, mainstream culture ended, period; we now inhabit phantom virtual cultures that overlap with one another.

 

[StylinLA]

If I could predict what Chanel is going to do next, it would probably be terrible step for them to be taking.

I want them--and not just them, but everyone--to do something that no one could predict.

That's a pretty succinct way of putting it.

I think this is a very patient, measured, careful company. I have no doubt they are constantly researching, developing, testing and searching for the next direction to take.

Right now, my guess is that sales of Bleu and its many variants are still wildly successful. While many of us may be jonsing for something new and different, accountants at Chanel are likely quite content. With a company like this, a new product launch is millions and millions of dollars above and beyond the paltry cost of the actual juice.

One could argue that Dior is a similar company and has put out some new stuff. But look at how they did it- they put new juice in a bottle and still called it Dior Homme (2020). They've also launched layers and layers of flankers for Sauvage.

I'm as interested as anyone else on seeing something new from Chanel. Especially to watch the reactions here which will probably be about 50-50. The Bleu de Chanel launch I remember well and it certainly wasn't universally embraced as some grand masterpiece here.

I do always applaud Chanel for pretty much continuing every male scent they've ever made for the most part (among the main "designer" line.)
Anataeus, Pour Monsieur, Egoiste, Platinum Égoïste, Allure Homme all still available for purchase new. (PM Concentree a sad casualty).

 

[AndyL]

Dior Homme 2020 *was* Dior moving first. And Hermès also moved forward with H24. No sign of any action on Chanel's part.

Chanel can afford to be slow to action. To an extent, mainstream fragrance ended in the 2010s (and is currently receiving hospice care). In fact, mainstream culture ended, period; we now inhabit phantom virtual cultures that overlap with one another.

1. Great points made with Dior and Hermes and their recent fragrances. Thought I remember reading that it can take 2-3 years to get a fragrance from start to launch with full marketing push. Chanel has to have something cooking.
2. I do not know as much as many of you, but mens fragrances did seem to trend together by decade(s). You are right, today it's kind of all over the place and that is a challenge to see if Chanel can whip up another mass appealing banger like Bleu.

 

[StylinLA]

I'm hoping for a new trendsetter that shakes up the industry and makes them envious.

I don't think that's a part of their business strategy. I think Dior is the main competitor they keep an eye on. If Dior breaks with something NOT Sauvage, Chanel might feel the need to respond in kind. But I don't think Chanel likes to respond to any new trends- they like to set the new trend.

 

[dealt7faux]

No doubt, Chanel probably has something in the works as we chat.

 

[Diddy]

They likely have said “no” or “not yet” or “maybe one day” to a cacophony of submissions by R&D… before, during, and since the release of BdC. Anything else would be opposite of the way a major manufacturer operates business. I’m sure they’re ok with current sales numbers of BdC, and are buying time to see world economic conditions before releasing something else. Of course, I could be way out of touch and their perfumers have been sitting around digging boogers and watching YouTube since BdC hit. 🤷‍♂️

 

[nosey74]

Bleu de Chanel Intense Extreme Parfum Sport Concentree Elixir Cologne Extrait

My guess is Chanel's/Polge's focus is on another unisex Les Exclusifs fragrance.

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

When Chanel sees Dior moving past Sauvage or Creed moving past Aventus?

 

[ToughCool]

It’s funny! I actually keep going back to older Chanel’s and I think they know others do too. I just purchased Platinum Egoiste again and before that it was Allure and Allure Homme Sport and PM EDP. Their classics are still great and still bring people back. I appreciate they aren’t just pumping out things.

 

[Varanis Ridari]

Dior Homme 2020 *was* Dior moving first. And Hermès also moved forward with H24. No sign of any action on Chanel's part.

Chanel can afford to be slow to action. To an extent, mainstream fragrance ended in the 2010s (and is currently receiving hospice care). In fact, mainstream culture ended, period; we now inhabit phantom virtual cultures that overlap with one another.

That last paragraph is chilling in its dystopian implications.

And Chanel is still raising prices Creed-style, so the demand must still be there; or as I mentioned in another thread, the level of customer they chase now is smaller in number but much wealthier than 20 years ago.

They're not concerned about pleasing the hoi polloi, so I wouldn't be surprised if their next fragrance wasn't more polarizing again, and with a $250+ pricetag.

 

[Vinrambo09]

If they mainstream Coromandel or Le Lion into the men's collection that would be great, TF does it

 

[mrcologneguy]

Still waiting for Bleu de Chanel Sport. A nice BdC bar soap would be welcome, too.

 

[DeathArrow]

These houses have a history that go back way more than that but at some point Bleu de Chanel will need a successor.

I think they'll be happy to oblige but they need to know first what the next fad and hype train will be. The chemical soup will be easy to fix, but they won't be putting in motion their heavy marketing machine unless it's a winner.

 

[DeathArrow]

I'd be interested to hear your take on when and possibly what its successor may be like. Will it more male aligned or soften to a more unisex fragrance?

I think it will be what their accountant team will think will sell better.

 

[DeathArrow]

Dior Homme 2020 *was* Dior moving first. And Hermès also moved forward with H24. No sign of any action on Chanel's part.

Chanel can afford to be slow to action. To an extent, mainstream fragrance ended in the 2010s (and is currently receiving hospice care). In fact, mainstream culture ended, period; we now inhabit phantom virtual cultures that overlap with one another.

You might be right and certainly more knowledgeable than me. Still, I have the impression that blue, sweet, gourmand, woody are still the traits of the mainstream fragrance culture.

 

[DeathArrow]

“Bleu de Chanel Elixir …for the instinctive and electric man who levitates with the intensity and majestic elegance that defies convention.”

$249

View attachment 321835

If they sleep too much, Google, Apple, Amazon will release Neural Breeze, iScent or Cuir de Electrons and eat their cake.

 

[Jean-Clone Ellena]

Dior Homme 2020 is Dior Homme, and even if the fragrance maintains a 5% or 30% or 80% similarity to the original Dior Homme, the concept is still Dior Homme; not a brand new fragrance. In this case, Dior's vulgarity regarding Chanel becomes more evident by announcing different versions of the same nominal fragrance over the years, as if it were a Ford Taurus. Nothing surprising coming from a brand with a list of fragrances as confusing as arbitrary and with some (economic) success.
Hermes H what?? I guess Chanel will look at the best and although they have not done badly with Bleu, the best is Sauvage. Even any person who doesn't like football will be more familiar with the Philadelphia Eagles than the Houston Texans just because of the constant television rattle. Sauvage surpassed Chanel launching about 5 years after Bleu a very similar fragrance concept and winning the race to this day.

The chauvinism of Chanel made them choose Gaspar Ulliel as the visible face of Bleu, something that could work decently in France but outside of it his figure barely excited customers. To make matters worse, the unfortunate one died in an accident (God have him in his glory). On the other hand, Johnny Depp was an indisputable hit with Sauvage, a generational icon, who has also recently been acquitted by public opinion.
These types of issues are not trivial and their repercussions are very great when selling a fragrance well or badly, something that basically will not do the fragrance itself since they are practically garbage.
Of course Chanel is slower metabolism than Dior and a little far-fetched strategy could be to wait where Dior / Kurkdjian starts in the men's line and then use Chanel's mouse and copy/paste.

 

[grant]

This is the longest we've had to wait for an original Chanel men's fragrance since the gap between Pour Monsieur and Antaeus, So I'd say we're due something new from Chanel soonish

There was around ten years between Antaeus and Egoiste
Around Ten years between Egoiste and Allure Homme
Around Ten years between Allure Homme and Bleu

Bleu came out 13 years ago

 

[Diddy]

Even any person who doesn't like football will be more familiar with the Philadelphia Eagles than the Houston Texans just because of the constant television rattle. .

The Texans get plenty air time… in Houston! And Jasper kids are taught that the Titans ain’t the Titans, they’re the Oilers. Right after gunsmith class. In ‘Merican History. 🤣😂

This is the longest we've had to wait for an original Chanel men's fragrance since the gap between Pour Monsieur and Antaeus, So I'd say we're due something new from Chanel soonish

There was around ten years between Antaeus and Egoiste
Around Ten years between Egoiste and Allure Homme
Around Ten years between Allure Homme and Bleu

Bleu came out 13 years ago

I do agree with the sentiment that we are “due”. Maybe COVID and economic concerns pushed back a potential launch? Especially if Bleu is doing ok. The Les Eaux and CoCo lines have seen steady attention, having something released yearly it seems. Or every couple of years. We nearly get attacked by Chanel employees to smell every version of Mademoiselle when walking through major stores. Maybe a plethora of Bleu flankers are on the menu like the CoCo line. 😔

 

[jnsjns]

The big brands weren't able to produce a really big "pillar" success over the last 7, 8 years.

Sure, you have Phantom and Scandal but that's not what Chanel aims for I guess.

DH2020 seems to be rather successful (deservedly so imo) but probably does not reach DHI numbers. DH Sport 2021 is likely the same thing.

H24 hasn't hit it out the park and trails Terre.

Valentinos Born in Roma Line trails Uomo Intense (probably the only notable mainstream High-Quality-success over the last 5 years or so). But Uomo Intense belongs to the wave of successful "Iris-Designer-Scents" released in the 2010s.

The industry seems determined to make green scents around narcissus, sage, lavender, geranium, juniper berries, vetiver a new "It"-profile in mainstream perfumery but the fragrances that tried so far didn't blow up.

Givenchy Gentleman Society seems to be the next big narcissus/sage-push. Big marketing campain with a rather known face, shower gel, after shave - the whole package. Seems to somewhat of a rebrand of the Gentleman line with H24 note overlap. Imo it's not gonna fare too well.

The new Y Intense goes a similar route.

People are still happy with the trifecta of blue scent + sweet iris/tonka scent + citrus/amber wood- sportscent.


Maybe Chanel will try their own version of a green male designer around narcissus and sage, maybe they will try to innovate, maybe they will wait the next "trend-setting-accord" shows itself.

 

[thrilledchilled]

For me, there are two Chanel’s. Good Chanel with
Coromandel, Sycamore, Cuir de Russie, etc. and Bad Chanel with Alure Homme, BdC. I appreciate their commercial success but don’t care for them.

 

[Brooks Otterlake]

That last paragraph is chilling in its dystopian implications.

Dystopia: the new fragrance by Chanel

 

[Brooks Otterlake]

The big brands weren't able to produce a really big "pillar" success over the last 7, 8 years.

The big brands didn't really try all that hard, and for good reason. That's not where the market growth is. Targeting stuff at "everyone" is a losing strategy right now.

The algorithm-driven, influencer-filled social media world we're in now demands more targeted marketing strategies. You can't just bomb magazines and network TV with ads anymore.

This is why you saw so many conglomerates acquiring different brands, only to release stuff under sub-brands targeted to narrower audiences. It's the illusion of consumer choice.

Chanel probably will eventually release a new tentpole masculine whenever Bleu sales dip low enough, but it won't become a force like Bleu de Chanel did. The era of the Bleus and Sauvages is over.

 

[jnsjns]

Not sure.

You still got heavy hitters over the last years. Sauvage Elixir has become a Bestseller within weeks but it carries the Sauvage name, sure.

Maybe you're right about brands releasing their new fragrances within ranges that already exist.

Examples would be DH2020, Habit Rouge Instinct (more of a stealth release anyways) and especially Gentleman Society.

Maybe Chanel will release a BdC or Allure flanker that smells completely different to the rest of the range.

 

[nosey74]

If they sleep too much, Google, Apple, Amazon will release Neural Breeze, iScent or Cuir de Electrons and eat their cake.

Well Elon Musk released a fragrance called "Burnt Hair"

Burnt Hair — The Boring Company

www.boringcompany.com

 

[ThVH]

Very interesting debate, and fun to read.

I’m a bit baffled that H24 seems to be regarded as something that doesn’t sell well. Every perfume store I go, employees say it’s a massive hit. Small sample range of course, but still

 

[Brooks Otterlake]

Very interesting debate, and fun to read.

I’m a bit baffled that H24 seems to be regarded as something that doesn’t sell well. Every perfume store I go, employees say it’s a massive hit. Small sample range of course, but still

I don't have stats to fall back on, but it does seem to me like it's doing quite well.

 

[hollywoodforever]

Anecdotes:

• My mother (60's) called me recently to tell me about a wonderful NEW fragrance she smelled at Nordstrom: "It's called SAUVAGE by Dior! Have you heard of it?!"
• I bought my father (now in his 70's) Bleu de Chanel for Christmas in 2010. He still raves about it being the best perfume he's ever had. He is still working through his original bottle...

I think perfume trends move very slowly. Most people I know do not wear perfume except on very special occasions. Most of them own one bottle, and have worn the same thing for 10 -40 years. Often, it was a gift picked out for them by a spouse.

 

[Foamywax]

Perhaps now they are waiting for Dior to move first and then copy accordingly...

It is Dior that copied chanel though.. Sauvage is their copy of BDC and it's inferior. Even the elixir which I like and own , is not as chic as BDC EDP.

 

[Jean-Clone Ellena]

Exactly. So now maybe Chanel is waiting for Dior to move first to give it back. That's what I meant.

It's a matter of taste, and maybe I'll personally agree with you. It's a natural thing in their brand image. But I don't think Bernard Arnault and Co. spend sleepless nights thinking how little chic Sauvage is about Bleu, or whether it smells better or worse. Although I am practically sure that they will sleep on a better mattress than mine.

 

[Redneck Perfumisto]

Olivier is also due for a men's pillar. It would be his first, unless I forgot something. They don't want to mess that up.

And I do think that Covid shook up the company's plans, but that the true and exact nature and degree of the disruption are surely quite closely held secrets.

So yes. This will be a big deal for Chanel. But I have no idea what it will be like. I'm pretty sure I'll like it. I have loved far too many of Olivier's works over the years.

 

[StylinLA]

Anecdotes:

• My mother (60's) called me recently to tell me about a wonderful NEW fragrance she smelled at Nordstrom: "It's called SAUVAGE by Dior! Have you heard of it?!"
• I bought my father (now in his 70's) Bleu de Chanel for Christmas in 2010. He still raves about it being the best perfume he's ever had. He is still working through his original bottle...

I think perfume trends move very slowly. Most people I know do not wear perfume except on very special occasions. Most of them own one bottle, and have worn the same thing for 10 -40 years. Often, it was a gift picked out for them by a spouse.

That's a good snapshot of how many consumers can view scent so differently than us.

We've all been wrestling with Sauvage and Bleu for years, some people are just discovering them.