What's your favourite fruity-oriental from the 90s?

Dane

Well-known member
Jan 9, 2002
Sounds to me like a job for Casmir by Chopard. Mighty sweet, though. And as a composition, inferior to Theorema.

Casmir is on my wishlist. I'd really like to have the parfum - if only because I'd rarely be wearing it, and when I did, I could dab it on instead of spraying.

I have to go with Angel. I buy this on a regular basis.

Angel will always be #1 in this category - but I just can't bring myself to wear it in public. TOO many people recognize it. Not sure why I care(?)
 

cacio

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 5, 2010
I have rediscovered this style recently, and we had a small pass the sample based on Theorema. I particularly like Theorema because I like the overripe, rotten fruity note-it adds interest and it's a nice twist. Luckily, it seems Christine Nagel has continued in the style in more recent, and still available, perfumes like Archives 69 or Le Galop.

cacio
 

Dane

Well-known member
Jan 9, 2002
I have rediscovered this style recently, and we had a small pass the sample based on Theorema. I particularly like Theorema because I like the overripe, rotten fruity note-it adds interest and it's a nice twist. Luckily, it seems Christine Nagel has continued in the style in more recent, and still available, perfumes like Archives 69 or Le Galop.

cacio

I loved her style back then - but less so now with her placement at Hermes.

Badgley Mischka is (or rather was - discontinued) very much of this type.
I personally loved it and still have a small sample left.
I also adore Theorema and Mauboussin. They are very much my thing.

I looked through your wardrobe - we have a lot in common!

I have an order for a bottle of Montana's "Just Me" in parfum - can't wait! I'm also awaiting a bottle of Jacomo Paradox, although this one is more straight-up-fruit than a proper oriental.

I still have the itch though - I guess I've been comparing everything to Angel, and while they're all up there as far as quality, etc., none are as brazen - I want something a bit over-the-top.
 

Willie

Well-known member
May 9, 2008
I used to like Chopard Mira Bai. Haven's smelled it in ages, but for some unknown reason it recently popped in my head when trying Guerlain's Neroli Outrenoir. They are probably not similar at all when comparing them on skin, but at that moment, Neroli Outrenoir reminded me of Mira Bai.

It's a sweet and spicy oriental with peach.
 

thediamondsea

Well-known member
Jan 10, 2016
This is interesting, Dane--I've been on a little Mauboussin kick lately, and thinking that it's about time we brought this style back. Seems like we're often thinking along the same lines . . . . Also, this is a fun area of perfumery to explore, because Angel spawned SO many variations, across the board from high to low houses, and with prices that may or may not correspond with their original MSRP. This is exactly the kind of rabbit hole I love to go digging in, and I've found a few things that I liked. BTW, this style persisted well into the early 00's, so I have to mention a few things here that aren't strictly 90s.

Angel is, of course, the O.G., but I kinda agree with you about wearing it out in public, because it is SOO dang obvious. I have a couple of the flankers, and if you want even more fruit in your Angel, you have to try the Liqueur de Parfum--it takes that boozy, drunken fruit from Mauboussin et al to a whole new level, and the overall feel of the perfume is a little more contained and mature somehow, probably because it doesn't have the same cotton candy/candyfloss vibe--but it works without taming Angel's crazy heart. And when you wear it, it doesn't read as "ANGEL!!!!!," especially when you've let it settle down for a while. Mugler knows how to do flankers. I have to give them that. Speaking of which, on the same tip, the Angel "Garden of Stars" (especially the rose) are all worth a try, and work equally well as a sort of stealth Angel for those times when nothing else will do.

I also think that Donna Karan's Chaos definitely falls into this category, in a completely different key. It's pretty much a unicorn now, but if I had the kind of money that it's going for, I would happily pay. The fruit is VERY dark and sheer, and the Oriental base is bone-dry, but it's just on this side of austere, and it's dramatic and a real jaw-dropper. If you haven't smelled it before, I really think you would like it.

A more obvious straight up derivation is Fendi's Fantasia. It's a real weirdo (which is a good thing as far as I'm concerned), sort of a slightly starched, almost prim take on the Angel idea--not wobbling on its stilettoes because it's wearing kitten heels (which, btw, were huge in the 90s). Like all the Fendi stuff, it got disco'd, but there's loads of it around, and it's probably all fairly pre-reformish. The vanilla is dry and the volume is soft, but it's not (as gimmegreen would say) mumblecore. Definitely worth a spin because nobody talks about it anymore, and it's probably easy to snap up, (I don't think they ever did a parfum, but I'm not particularly insistent about formulations--still, f they did, and you find some, please message me or just send me a sample :)).

Paloma Picasso Tentations also fits the bill here, I think, although the style is more baroque and trad than some of the other stuff we've been talking about. When you break it down, the story is peach and vanilla and spice; it may be too florientalish for you, or it may scratch the itch in a different way. It is also very expensive when you can find it, but I think that speaks clearly to its quality and its appeal. Bucheron's original Jaipur Femme also kind of hits on the same cylinders--I think Luca Turin calls it "Apricot Tart," and I don't think he was trying to make a pun (although you never know with LT). Jaipur Femme is a Sophia Grojsman composition, but don't hold that against it. It's not nearly as needy as something like Tresor, because it's a lot more complex and refined and not nearly as balls-out sweet (as opposed to fruity), and it has a great sandalwood base, especially if you can find the vintage.

From the 00's, I've recently been directed (in more ways than one) towards Cacharel's Amor Amor. I've never smelled it, but my bottle should be here today or tomorrow, so I'll report in when I have it.

I better stop here; I could continue this rundown all day, but I kinda need to get some work done :). BUT--I have to also mention KL Sun Moon Stars (I'm surprised nobody else has yet), Jacomo Aura (I thought I saw that up above here ^^^ but maybe not), and Ted Lapidus Fou d'Elle. And I think the original formulation of Miss Dior Cherie, and the Miss Dior Parfum that used to be around (I don't know if they've changed it or not) also fit the bill, for what it's worth--I used to sneak spritzes of the MD Parfum from Sephora; the only thing I don't like about is its very short longevity on my skin. The Diors (like the Mauboussin) also cross over into fruitchouli territory, I guess, for whatever that's worth.

And everyone around here knows how I feel about Theorema. I didn't want to love it, but I do, dang it.
 

Dane

Well-known member
Jan 9, 2002
This is interesting, Dane--I've been on a little Mauboussin kick lately, and thinking that it's about time we brought this style back. Seems like we're often thinking along the same lines . . . . Also, this is a fun area of perfumery to explore, because Angel spawned SO many variations, across the board from high to low houses, and with prices that may or may not correspond with their original MSRP. This is exactly the kind of rabbit hole I love to go digging in, and I've found a few things that I liked. BTW, this style persisted well into the early 00's, so I have to mention a few things here that aren't strictly 90s.

Angel is, of course, the O.G., but I kinda agree with you about wearing it out in public, because it is SOO dang obvious. I have a couple of the flankers, and if you want even more fruit in your Angel, you have to try the Liqueur de Parfum--it takes that boozy, drunken fruit from Mauboussin et al to a whole new level, and the overall feel of the perfume is a little more contained and mature somehow, probably because it doesn't have the same cotton candy/candyfloss vibe--but it works without taming Angel's crazy heart. And when you wear it, it doesn't read as "ANGEL!!!!!," especially when you've let it settle down for a while. Mugler knows how to do flankers. I have to give them that. Speaking of which, on the same tip, the Angel "Garden of Stars" (especially the rose) are all worth a try, and work equally well as a sort of stealth Angel for those times when nothing else will do.

I also think that Donna Karan's Chaos definitely falls into this category, in a completely different key. It's pretty much a unicorn now, but if I had the kind of money that it's going for, I would happily pay. The fruit is VERY dark and sheer, and the Oriental base is bone-dry, but it's just on this side of austere, and it's dramatic and a real jaw-dropper. If you haven't smelled it before, I really think you would like it.

A more obvious straight up derivation is Fendi's Fantasia. It's a real weirdo (which is a good thing as far as I'm concerned), sort of a slightly starched, almost prim take on the Angel idea--not wobbling on its stilettoes because it's wearing kitten heels (which, btw, were huge in the 90s). Like all the Fendi stuff, it got disco'd, but there's loads of it around, and it's probably all fairly pre-reformish. The vanilla is dry and the volume is soft, but it's not (as gimmegreen would say) mumblecore. Definitely worth a spin because nobody talks about it anymore, and it's probably easy to snap up, (I don't think they ever did a parfum, but I'm not particularly insistent about formulations--still, f they did, and you find some, please message me or just send me a sample :)).

Paloma Picasso Tentations also fits the bill here, I think, although the style is more baroque and trad than some of the other stuff we've been talking about. When you break it down, the story is peach and vanilla and spice; it may be too florientalish for you, or it may scratch the itch in a different way. It is also very expensive when you can find it, but I think that speaks clearly to its quality and its appeal. Bucheron's original Jaipur Femme also kind of hits on the same cylinders--I think Luca Turin calls it "Apricot Tart," and I don't think he was trying to make a pun (although you never know with LT). Jaipur Femme is a Sophia Grojsman composition, but don't hold that against it. It's not nearly as needy as something like Tresor, because it's a lot more complex and refined and not nearly as balls-out sweet (as opposed to fruity), and it has a great sandalwood base, especially if you can find the vintage.

From the 00's, I've recently been directed (in more ways than one) towards Cacharel's Amor Amor. I've never smelled it, but my bottle should be here today or tomorrow, so I'll report in when I have it.

I better stop here; I could continue this rundown all day, but I kinda need to get some work done :). BUT--I have to also mention KL Sun Moon Stars (I'm surprised nobody else has yet), Jacomo Aura (I thought I saw that up above here ^^^ but maybe not), and Ted Lapidus Fou d'Elle. And I think the original formulation of Miss Dior Cherie, and the Miss Dior Parfum that used to be around (I don't know if they've changed it or not) also fit the bill, for what it's worth--I used to sneak spritzes of the MD Parfum from Sephora; the only thing I don't like about is its very short longevity on my skin. The Diors (like the Mauboussin) also cross over into fruitchouli territory, I guess, for whatever that's worth.

And everyone around here knows how I feel about Theorema. I didn't want to love it, but I do, dang it.

So many good suggestions - I'm off to research. Thank you! I also agree it's time that we bring this style back. 80's revival had its moment, and the prices have gone crazy...time to find the one-offs from the 90's that have yet to be exploited.
 

Nastka

Well-known member
Mar 6, 2011
I think Mugler's Alien is worth a try, too. True, there's no fruit as such in there, but the jasmine note is incredibly abstract, grape-y and fruity.
 

Kotori

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Aug 17, 2006
My two favorites from that period are Gucci Rush and Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune.

I also wore:

Alchimie by Rochas
Angel
Byblos
Hot Couture by Givenchy
Spellbound by Estée Lauder

Newer ones I have enjoyed are:

Hanae by Hanae Mori
Shalimar Eau Legere (discontinued)
Amor Amor by Cacharel
Delices de Cartier
L de Lolita (orange vanilla)
Angelique Noire by Guerlain
Galop
Fruitchouli Flash by Tauerville
Sira des Indes by Patou
 

Dane

Well-known member
Jan 9, 2002
I think Mugler's Alien is worth a try, too. True, there's no fruit as such in there, but the jasmine note is incredibly abstract, grape-y and fruity.

I really want to like Alien, but I just can't. The jasmine note, as you said, is incredible - one of the best. But the rest just sort of feels like an Angel knock-off.

My two favorites from that period are Gucci Rush and Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune.

I also wore:

Alchimie by Rochas
Angel
Byblos
Hot Couture by Givenchy
Spellbound by Estée Lauder

Newer ones I have enjoyed are:

Hanae by Hanae Mori
Shalimar Eau Legere (discontinued)
Amor Amor by Cacharel
Delices de Cartier
L de Lolita (orange vanilla)
Angelique Noire by Guerlain
Galop
Fruitchouli Flash by Tauerville
Sira des Indes by Patou

Love Rush! Have the parfum, can smell it for days.

Tell me more about Amor Amor and Sira des Indes. I know I've tried both, but can't really remember.
 

Ken_Russell

Well-known member
Jan 21, 2006
Among many others, a few YSL Opium flankers (admittedly some corssing over both in masculine and/or masculine-unisex territory) including Eau d'Orient and Poesie de Chine but also the masculine version of Dior Dune, still aproaching almost unisex territorry due to that simply stunnig balance between fruity, exotic/Oriental but also citrus and aquatic notes all in one
 

thediamondsea

Well-known member
Jan 10, 2016
Hello again! I completely forgot to mention Gucci Rush, but I see that other folks got to it, and of course you have the parfum!

My bottle of Amor Amor came today, and I've taken a sniff of it, but I'm afraid to say much until it has settled down some more. I find that nothing smells right until it has had a few days to mellow out after a postal journey. I'm sure you'll see that there's quite a bit of love for it, tho--Christopher Sheldrake mentions it in an interview with Grant here on BN, and I believe that Victoria at Bois de Jasmin rates it highly, too. Word on the street about the Absolu is quite favorable also. And Dominique Ropion and Laurent Bruyere (of Angel Innocent). Good times.

I also wanted to bring up Kenzo Jungle L'Elephant as another kind of crazy variant of this genre. It's like mango, Prunol, cloves and concrete--the Cashmeran is turned up to 11, to the point where it's an abstract element in the perfume and makes it almost like the kind of thing that Commes des Garcons do just to be weird--but it's also really fun, and I think it smells great in the summer. And (surprise!) my boyfriend, M. Ropion, did this one, too.
 

shadesofbleu

The power of bleu
Basenotes Plus
Jun 3, 2005
I don’t recommend dc’ed fragrances very often in these kind of inquiries because they can be so hard to find and/or expensive. I’m making an exception here though and mentioning Todd Oldham EDP. This is big, bold, booze-y dark fruit and then some skanky musk in the dry down ... maybe more 80’s style than 90’s, but it was released in 1995. It can still be found fairly easily, although the prices have been on the rise.
 

thediamondsea

Well-known member
Jan 10, 2016
Okay--reporting in on Cacharel Amor Amor. Last night, out of the bottle, it was a mess of hair spray and hand soap and aquatic watermelon and all kinds of other weird sh*t. I was unsure. But I woke up to a drydown that made me reconsider. I sprayed it again and revisited, and it was much much better, a really interesting fruity top with a balsamic base that makes the vanilla kinda resiny. It does have a bit of soapy action in the middle, but it sort of reminds me of a more extroverted and carefree version of something like Allure. The materials are what they are, so calibration made a difference with the sprayer--a dense spray made it harsh, so this is one that needs misting.
 

Cook.bot

Common Lackey
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
I also wanted to bring up Kenzo Jungle L'Elephant as another kind of crazy variant of this genre. It's like mango, Prunol, cloves and concrete--the Cashmeran is turned up to 11, to the point where it's an abstract element in the perfume and makes it almost like the kind of thing that Commes des Garcons do just to be weird--but it's also really fun, and I think it smells great in the summer. And (surprise!) my boyfriend, M. Ropion, did this one, too.

This one is interesting to consider as a contender in this category. I absolutely love Jungle l'Elephant, but never thought of it as a fruity oriental -- but it actually is, isn't it? To me there's a sizable plonk of anise in it, too, but yeah, that Prunol and cloves does give it bona fides as an entrant here. I've gone through two minis of it and I really ought to pick up a full bottle.
 

FiveoaksBouquet

Scented.
Basenotes Plus
Jul 16, 2004
One if this type that I am so sorry is discontinued (but apparently available on line) is Jaipur by Boucheron, created by Sophia Grojsman in 1994.

Notes:
plum, peach, freesia
rose, iris, peony, acacia
sandalwood, amber, musk, heliotrope


It is just luscious!
 

Dane

Well-known member
Jan 9, 2002
I received the bottle (damaged - boo) of Mauboussin Histoire d'Eau from Beauty Encounter. It's a stunner - but doesn't really fit this category like I thought it would (from the sample I had). It's extremely spicy, exotic, woody. Beautiful stuff, but not a fruity-oriental.

I think Jaipur might be my next purchase. And Casmir. Only because I want something rich & over-the-top.
 

thediamondsea

Well-known member
Jan 10, 2016
I received the bottle (damaged - boo) of Mauboussin Histoire d'Eau from Beauty Encounter. It's a stunner - but doesn't really fit this category like I thought it would (from the sample I had). It's extremely spicy, exotic, woody. Beautiful stuff, but not a fruity-oriental.

I think Jaipur might be my next purchase. And Casmir. Only because I want something rich & over-the-top.

Japiur was my mom's signature for many years. It's a big ol' bundle of Everything. (Quick) funny story: I got asked out on a semi-blind date (this guy saw me across the room and asked a friend for my number--maybe said 3 words to him if that) when I was visiting my folks from college. He invites me to go to a Throwing Muses show (yeah, it was that long ago). I get dressed, have none of my regular scents to choose from, and finally decide on a random emergency spritz from Mom's vanity table. Oooooops. This was in '91, and 21-year-old-me smelled like a Carrington going to a charity ball. I owned up to my date, and kept the window rolled down the whole time while we drove to the show. At least we could laugh about it (and this was back when everyone smoked, so the scent got drowned out at the club anyway). But it was that potent from 1 spray.

My vintage bottle of her Jaipur turned, unfortunately. I hope you're able to find some of the good stuff. The sandalwood drydown is something to behold.
 

thediamondsea

Well-known member
Jan 10, 2016
This one is interesting to consider as a contender in this category. I absolutely love Jungle l'Elephant, but never thought of it as a fruity oriental -- but it actually is, isn't it? To me there's a sizable plonk of anise in it, too, but yeah, that Prunol and cloves does give it bona fides as an entrant here. I've gone through two minis of it and I really ought to pick up a full bottle.

It's also easy to miss the vanilla in the drydown, because it takes a looooong time getting there. It's one of the few mainstream designer perfumes that I *know* will still be on my skin and clothes after a long day/shower/full night's sleep/etc.
 

sciencegirl

Well-known member
Jan 16, 2007
I was super into Dolce Vita by Dior. I blew through a couple of bottles of it, my last one being a bit too cumin-y on me. It’s pretty bombastic, with peach, cinnamon, wood and vanilla. I think there are some florals in there, but the wood is pretty powerful.
 

thediamondsea

Well-known member
Jan 10, 2016
Just another bit of info (this was pertinent for me, anyway)--having done some research, it appears that Amor Amor Absolu is getting super rare and most likely has been disco'd. Word around the campfire is that after reformulation the Absolu is closer to the OG version anyway. Now that it has hooked me, even in its current form, I've ended up spending dough on a bottle of Absolu for comparison purposes. Such a strange perfume to have gotten hooked on--everything about it should be wrong, but somehow it's exactly right, at least for me at this moment of my life. Go figure :).
 

Dane

Well-known member
Jan 9, 2002
I managed to get a huge, 50ml bottle of Jaipur extrait (a perfume counter tester, I imagine, but unused). I actually find the extrait to have less oomph than the EDT I tried last. It's still peachy and beautiful, but its aldehydes are amped up - almost like they wanted the extrait to seem more "mature". Doesn't matter either way, I still love it. And now I have enough for several lifetimes.
 

FiveoaksBouquet

Scented.
Basenotes Plus
Jul 16, 2004
I managed to get a huge, 50ml bottle of Jaipur extrait (a perfume counter tester, I imagine, but unused). I actually find the extrait to have less oomph than the EDT I tried last. It's still peachy and beautiful, but its aldehydes are amped up - almost like they wanted the extrait to seem more "mature". Doesn't matter either way, I still love it. And now I have enough for several lifetimes.

Congrats! If it’s been around awhile, the “oomphlessness” may be due to a mellowing of the fruity top notes and general blending in of ingredients over time. Sounds like a lovely find. Enjoy!
 

cacio

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 5, 2010
Feminite du bois is the most elegant, I think. Oriental though lacking vanilla and sweetness.

Otherwise, Theorema has an intriguing rotten fruit note which I quite like.

cacio
 

Starblind

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Oct 2, 2013
Hello again!

I also wanted to bring up Kenzo Jungle L'Elephant as another kind of crazy variant of this genre. It's like mango, Prunol, cloves and concrete--the Cashmeran is turned up to 11, to the point where it's an abstract element in the perfume and makes it almost like the kind of thing that Commes des Garcons do just to be weird--but it's also really fun, and I think it smells great in the summer. And (surprise!) my boyfriend, M. Ropion, did this one, too.

That's the one I instantly think of in this category.
 

Kotori

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Aug 17, 2006
One we didn’t mention that I enjoyed is Herve Leger for Women from 1999. Sweet apple oriental. Kind of a soft spin off of Amor Amor, to my nose. It kind of leads to DKNY Be Delicious in the early aughts. That’s in the Apple direction. In the ambery musky sandalwood direction, it leads to Valentino V. I wore all of them.

Also, this one is from ‘87, but we didn’t mention Cacharel Lou Lou. Mom used to wear it. Loud, brash berry oriental.
 

Evangeline

Well-known member
Oct 31, 2009
Rush and Jaipur popped into my mind, along with Trouble, but for a few that I didn't see mentioned already, you might check out Fantasme by Ted Lapidus, Dali Laguna, Molyneux Le Chic, So Pretty by Cartier, Patou For Ever, Masquerade and Mackie by Bob Mackie, and Magic by Celine.
 

Bal a Versailles

Well-known member
Feb 15, 2012
Just another bit of info (this was pertinent for me, anyway)--having done some research, it appears that Amor Amor Absolu is getting super rare and most likely has been disco'd. Word around the campfire is that after reformulation the Absolu is closer to the OG version anyway. Now that it has hooked me, even in its current form, I've ended up spending dough on a bottle of Absolu for comparison purposes. Such a strange perfume to have gotten hooked on--everything about it should be wrong, but somehow it's exactly right, at least for me at this moment of my life. Go figure :).
I've got a 30 ml bottle of Amor Amor Absolu tucked away in a drawer somewhere. I will have to drag it out and refresh my memory
 

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