What's inside of Suederal LT?

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
I'm trying to work on a Client's scent that they want Suederal in, but it has a somewhat deleterious effect, that may be undesired, so I am trying to tear it apart, so that I can get rid of the carrier of Hercolyn D.

It is entirely unfortunate that Modern Fragrance / Alexander McMurtry seems to think that Suederal **IS made up of Hercolyn D and Methyl palmitate. UH... Those are just carriers... Hey Alex, you can't just read a SDS and think that that is the story of a fragrance...

Anyway, I just want the Leather part, I can do without the Hercolyn D here in this client's scent...
Of course, I know how to make 25 different Leathers, HA! But am curious to tear apart Suederal LT.

Anyone have any ideas? Harry seems to remember some novel processing material, a nut oil or something, but he doesn't remember any specifics, or know anything else...

Thanks for your minds, :)
PK
 

filipeleira

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 18, 2018
69% Hercolyn D, 1.4% Methyl Palmitate, 1.3% Methyl Myristate, lots of alkanes (Pentadecane, Hexadecane, Heptadecane, Octadecane, Tetradecane, Nonadecane, Eicosane, Docosane, Heneicosane), phenols (2,5-Xylenol, 3,5-Xylenol, 3,4-Xylenol, 4-tert-Butylphenol, 2,3,5-Trimethylphenol, Tert-Butylcresol), 0.86% Unknowns (probably captives).. There are traces of Nutmeg, Cade, Cedarwood Himalaya and Thyme (ct thymol) oils.
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
69% Hercolyn D, 1.4% Methyl Palmitate, 1.3% Methyl Myristate, lots of alkanes (Pentadecane, Hexadecane, Heptadecane, Octadecane, Tetradecane, Nonadecane, Eicosane, Docosane, Heneicosane), phenols (2,5-Xylenol, 3,5-Xylenol, 3,4-Xylenol, 4-tert-Butylphenol, 2,3,5-Trimethylphenol, Tert-Butylcresol), 0.86% Unknowns (probably captives).. There are traces of Nutmeg, Cade, Cedarwood Himalaya and Thyme (ct thymol) oils.
Thanks Felipe! :) That's MOST Helpful!
 

fragrantregard

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 2, 2015
Of all the bases I ever saw / smelled, this one makes the least sense to try and recreate. So many things inside which aren't easily available; also, different versions have different solvents and compositions to be compliant in various countries. Hard to say the above constituents are actually in the specific version of the base you have.
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
lots of alkanes (Pentadecane, Hexadecane, Heptadecane, Octadecane, Tetradecane, Nonadecane, Eicosane, Docosane, Heneicosane),
I'd sure like to find an economical source for a blend of these Alcanes, I have a few projects that could use them...
 
Oct 3, 2016
69% Hercolyn D, 1.4% Methyl Palmitate, 1.3% Methyl Myristate, lots of alkanes (Pentadecane, Hexadecane, Heptadecane, Octadecane, Tetradecane, Nonadecane, Eicosane, Docosane, Heneicosane), phenols (2,5-Xylenol, 3,5-Xylenol, 3,4-Xylenol, 4-tert-Butylphenol, 2,3,5-Trimethylphenol, Tert-Butylcresol), 0.86% Unknowns (probably captives).. There are traces of Nutmeg, Cade, Cedarwood Himalaya and Thyme (ct thymol) oils.
Found (TIC) hercolyn D >80%; minor compounds (0.01-0.05%): 4-ethyltoluene, mesitylene, 1,3-diethyltoluene, 1,4-diethyltoluene, tert-butyltoluene, trans 2-hexenol, acetic acid, longicyclene, benzaldehyde, longifolene, 2-tridecanone, 2,6-di-tert-butylphenol, 2,6-xylenol, 6-tert-butyl meta cresol, 2,4-xylenol, 4-isopropylphenol, 4-ethylphenol, 2-tert-butyl para cresol
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
I'm sure it's not what you want to hear :LOL: buuuuuuuuut...Penta has Hexa-, Tetra-, Nona-, and Hepta-.
Yes, you can get several as single molecules, Vigon has several too, but I just want a solution of several / many, that is a near waste by-product castoff from processing something else, so that I can buy a grouping, rather than so many at high prices, isolated, and sold only in 1kg each.
But haven't found that... yet.
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
Found (TIC) hercolyn D >80%; minor compounds (0.01-0.05%): 4-ethyltoluene, mesitylene, 1,3-diethyltoluene, 1,4-diethyltoluene, tert-butyltoluene, trans 2-hexenol, acetic acid, longicyclene, benzaldehyde, longifolene, 2-tridecanone, 2,6-di-tert-butylphenol, 2,6-xylenol, 6-tert-butyl meta cresol, 2,4-xylenol, 4-isopropylphenol, 4-ethylphenol, 2-tert-butyl para cresol
Thanks, for the excellent information, Giftmischer! :)
 

polysom

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 4, 2021
69% Hercolyn D, 1.4% Methyl Palmitate, 1.3% Methyl Myristate, lots of alkanes (Pentadecane, Hexadecane, Heptadecane, Octadecane, Tetradecane, Nonadecane, Eicosane, Docosane, Heneicosane), phenols (2,5-Xylenol, 3,5-Xylenol, 3,4-Xylenol, 4-tert-Butylphenol, 2,3,5-Trimethylphenol, Tert-Butylcresol), 0.86% Unknowns (probably captives).. There are traces of Nutmeg, Cade, Cedarwood Himalaya and Thyme (ct thymol) oils.

Interesting. How did you find this out so exactly? I am always interested what my bases contain, but the only source I know is the MSDS. And this does only list some compounds and only a concentration range. Are there other sources?
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
Interesting. How did you find this out so exactly? I am always interested what my bases contain, but the only source I know is the MSDS. And this does only list some compounds and only a concentration range. Are there other sources?
Felipe regularly sends fragrances and raw materials out for GCMS testing, as I do. He has a small business of selling formulas online. We occasionally trade our GCMS results that we get made.
 

filipeleira

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 18, 2018
Interesting. How did you find this out so exactly? I am always interested what my bases contain, but the only source I know is the MSDS. And this does only list some compounds and only a concentration range. Are there other sources?
Paul's answer is right, I have a GCMS report of Suederal LT and many other famous bases (so I can identify them in the perfumes). ;)
 

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