What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

SOB111

Well-known member
Feb 9, 2019
Dream Gate by Laurent Smal.
Top: Taif Rose, Turkish Rose
Mid: Patchouli oil from India
Base: Hindi Oudh, Ambergris

Simple but perfectly executed and high quality ingredients. Absolutely love it.

Dream Gate 1.jpg
 

SOB111

Well-known member
Feb 9, 2019
@ SOB111 Those Laurent Smal bottles are just gorgeous, I would love to try some of his stuff but it's totally out of my budget margin :D How do the oils compare with something like Sultan Pasha ?

The LS bottles are very lovely. Henry Jacques bottles are the only other ones that come close.

It is very hard to compare SP and LS. Firstly, Sultan Pasha uses a plethora of different ingredients in a single composition, whilst LS fragrances tend to use a much smaller number of (very very high quality) ingredients. If you look at the note breakdown for Chavel D'Arabia - there is more listed in the top notes then the complete list (top to base) for a LS fragrance. One of LS's amazing fragrances is Flying Jasmine - its pretty much a soliflore (jasmine with ambergris and orris) - but it is perfectly executed. My personal preference is for these types of "less complex" scents that use high quality ingredients and are perfectly blended/executed. Some people however, might find them "boring" or linear.
 

SOB111

Well-known member
Feb 9, 2019
Laurent Smal:

Eagle One: Bukhoor smokey notes, followed by Aged Hindi Oudh, Sandalwood, and Patchouli oils. This opens up reminiscent of Al Shareef's Turath II (if anyone is familiar with it). A smokey, smouldering woody opening. It then transitions to a beautiful Hindi oud and sandalwood mix. Its brilliant - but a bit too much in the current heatwave. This is going to be amazing come late October. I will put it away until then.

Horseback: Top: Grapefruit, saffron, black pepper, pink peppercorns; Mid: Patachouli, vetiver, bulgarian rose; Base: Hindi Oudh, Sandalwood, labdanum, benzoin, vannilla, ambergris and olibanum. A very modern, chic fragrance. Nothing old school about it. Another brilliant Laurent Smal fragrance. The grapefruit, saffron, vetiver and sandalwood shine in this. I dont detect the oud as much.


EagleOne.jpg
 

FCM415

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2018
"Ahud" by Attar Mohd Ayub Co.

Smokey resinous sweet, reminds you of bakhoor and oud chips fumigated on clothes. Fits with the smoky air and ashclouds we are having during this intense forrest fire season in California.
 

Castingshadows

Well-known member
Apr 14, 2020
"Ahud" by Attar Mohd Ayub Co.

Smokey resinous sweet, reminds you of bakhoor and oud chips fumigated on clothes. Fits with the smoky air and ashclouds we are having during this intense forrest fire season in California.

I’ve been really interested in this brand especially for the price. Are there any others you’d recommend from them?
 

HabibiGotIt

Well-known member
Apr 9, 2020
I’ve been really interested in this brand especially for the price. Are there any others you’d recommend from them?

And where were you able to buy these, if you don't mind my asking?

I really gotta check out Laurent Smal as well, though I'm sure it's MUCH pricier than Md Ayoub. Sounds amazing.

*edit: I just looked up Laurent Smal and his prices are...astronomical for 30ml. Is this really the pinnacle of natural and rare materials or does he just sell to rich clients in the Gulf?
 

bl00drunzcold

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2018
And where were you able to buy these, if you don't mind my asking?

I really gotta check out Laurent Smal as well, though I'm sure it's MUCH pricier than Md Ayoub. Sounds amazing.

*edit: I just looked up Laurent Smal and his prices are...astronomical for 30ml. Is this really the pinnacle of natural and rare materials or does he just sell to rich clients in the Gulf?

He was the perfumer for Henry Jacques at one point. Prices range from 550 to 2300 euro depending on the oils used. Haven’t smelled a single thing from him but I’m working my way to acquiring something from him.
 

SOB111

Well-known member
Feb 9, 2019
And where were you able to buy these, if you don't mind my asking?

I really gotta check out Laurent Smal as well, though I'm sure it's MUCH pricier than Md Ayoub. Sounds amazing.

*edit: I just looked up Laurent Smal and his prices are...astronomical for 30ml. Is this really the pinnacle of natural and rare materials or does he just sell to rich clients in the Gulf?

Its actually not that astronomical relatively speaking.

Eagle One - described above is approx EURO1000 - but its 30ml of oil (attar strength). Compare with Ensar's Sultan Leather Attar - at 12 grams for 1400. Now 1 gram doesnt exactly equal 1ml - but its not that far off... My only complaint with LS - is that he only currently makes the 30ml size - which is way too much oil than i need... i dont think I will ever get through all the oil in these bottles
 

HabibiGotIt

Well-known member
Apr 9, 2020
Its actually not that astronomical relatively speaking.

Eagle One - described above is approx EURO1000 - but its 30ml of oil (attar strength). Compare with Ensar's Sultan Leather Attar - at 12 grams for 1400. Now 1 gram doesnt exactly equal 1ml - but its not that far off... My only complaint with LS - is that he only currently makes the 30ml size - which is way too much oil than i need... i dont think I will ever get through all the oil in these bottles

My bad. Thought these were EDPs. Thanks. I really like the sound of Eagle One. Didnt see it on his IG. Wonder if it's available. Maybe someone will want to do a split.
 

Castingshadows

Well-known member
Apr 14, 2020
My bad. Thought these were EDPs. Thanks. I really like the sound of Eagle One. Didnt see it on his IG. Wonder if it's available. Maybe someone will want to do a split.

He does a lot of one off fragrances as well. I’ve noticed he’ll only release two bottles of some and limited runs of others. The only thing that’s alarming to me is his photo of the ambergris he uses. It’s literally jet black and looks soft and oily. I was always under the impression that if Ambergris is waxy and soft like wet clay that means it’s fake but then again I’d imagine he would know better. It’s just a bit odd when you have guys like Russian Adam saying otherwise and I trust his take on ambergris.
 

HabibiGotIt

Well-known member
Apr 9, 2020
He does a lot of one off fragrances as well. I’ve noticed he’ll only release two bottles of some and limited runs of others. The only thing that’s alarming to me is his photo of the ambergris he uses. It’s literally jet black and looks soft and oily. I was always under the impression that if Ambergris is waxy and soft like wet clay that means it’s fake but then again I’d imagine he would know better. It’s just a bit odd when you have guys like Russian Adam saying otherwise and I trust his take on ambergris.

I've worked with a lot of ambergris. That pic looks like the real deal based on shape and texture. Some dark ambergris is still dry and semi-grey inside. I'm sure it's a good specimen.
 

zerofox

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Aug 31, 2020
Rasasi Sharina. I find it pleasant, basic, and unfortunately not different enough from Lataffah Raghba or MFK Grand Soir due to heavy sweetness. I’m hoping the Amouage Al Mas on its way will make an impression upon me commensurate with the reputation preceding it. I don’t know if this means I would overall be better served trying more ‘masculine’ constructions. Gendering fragrance has always seemed silly to me.
 

FCM415

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2018
Itr Kaafila. Agarwood Assam's ruh khus floral attar. Deep stuff, it has ruh kewda (pandan distilled in sandal). Dark green and strong, yet cooling in California 109 degree weather today.
 

Castingshadows

Well-known member
Apr 14, 2020
Itr Kaafila. Agarwood Assam's ruh khus floral attar. Deep stuff, it has ruh kewda (pandan distilled in sandal). Dark green and strong, yet cooling in California 109 degree weather today.

Man I absolutely love their Ruh Khus Attars. It’s crazy to see you guys having our weather over on your side of things! I wear that same Attar whenever it’s over 110° out here! Which has basically been the entire summer hahah.
 

SOB111

Well-known member
Feb 9, 2019
Why does he not have a website? Does it have anything to do with flying under the radar of IFRA or is it something thats in development?

I have not asked him this specifically... so I can only assume... I think one key aspect is that he rarely produces more than 20 bottles (sometimes as little as 4 bottles) per composition - so having a website would be useless - he would constantly need to change what was available on it. Also, he has enough private clients with whom he deals directly. Its a very different experience. I message him and ask him what he is currently composing - if any peak my interest i submit an order. If none, then I'll wait a month or so to see whats next...
 

Castingshadows

Well-known member
Apr 14, 2020
I have not asked him this specifically... so I can only assume... I think one key aspect is that he rarely produces more than 20 bottles (sometimes as little as 4 bottles) per composition - so having a website would be useless - he would constantly need to change what was available on it. Also, he has enough private clients with whom he deals directly. Its a very different experience. I message him and ask him what he is currently composing - if any peak my interest i submit an order. If none, then I'll wait a month or so to see whats next...

Does he offer samples at all? The price point is a bit nerve wracking for a blind buy but I hear he’s one of the best in the world at what he does. His use of ambergris looks wonderful as well.
 

Sultan al Hindi

Well-known member
Feb 5, 2020
I have not asked him this specifically... so I can only assume... I think one key aspect is that he rarely produces more than 20 bottles (sometimes as little as 4 bottles) per composition - so having a website would be useless - he would constantly need to change what was available on it. Also, he has enough private clients with whom he deals directly. Its a very different experience. I message him and ask him what he is currently composing - if any peak my interest i submit an order. If none, then I'll wait a month or so to see whats next...

Interesting.

I emailed him about samples before and he mentioned something along the lines of coming down to London lol. I've seen a few brits who seem to have what look like sample vials, but maybe this is a perk available only for repeat clients?

I know he's after that arab money based on his instagram tags, but didn't think the quantities would be that low. Makes sense I guess at that price point!
 

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