what ingredient is this ?

[LaurenStahl]

Hi all. I found this Fig Base I wanted to try out.. But there is an ingredient i cannot find even at TGSC.
Can anyone here help me out to find either a substitute for this or let me know where to find it or if it has other names ?

This is the ingredient ... Boccoxim
Formula below. From Labtorium Formulas..

FIGUIER FEUILLES Base


Helional 540


Coumarin 280


Cassis Base 345 F 180


Stemone 96


Boccoxim 90


Methyloctalactone 50


Hey Absolute 12


Algue verte Absolute 6


Clary sage absolute 6

 

[Citroasis]

IMO...labtorium formulas are a waste of time. The owner of that website was a banned basenotes member.

I've tried a few formulas from them in the past just to see, ...and I find all the formulas I've received had typos, some materials written in Spanish/latin, and we're wildly inaccurate when compared to some of the GCMS I have (for the full perfume formulas).

It doesn't hurt to try thier free formulas if you just want to tinker around. But don't waste your time trying to buy any of the paid formulas.

In your case, the material in question is yet again one of his many typos and is probably this material : http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1004001.html

 

[LaurenStahl]

Oh. wish i known this earlier, just bought 2 formulas to test out 100USD total.
But the ingredient, Do you know of this one ? Boccoxim.

 

[Citroasis]

Oh. wish i known this earlier, just bought 2 formulas to test out 100USD total.
But the ingredient, Do you know of this one ? Boccoxim.

Yup...the link is in my original reply above

 

[LaurenStahl]

Ahhh sorry i did not see the link....Super.. Yeah i will try it and see. I am new to this as you might now, so i am trying outsome already made accords and formulas to understand the ingredients better. I also bought a formula from Jamie Frater (did not make it yet) waiting for 1 ingredient for that one... and some accords from PA (perfumers Aprentice) tried a few there and they honestly smell real nice.
Do you or anyone have any info about Creative Formulas.com and how they hold up ?.

 

[pkiler]

Agreed, the material is Buccoxime / buchu oxime.

 

[skuharev]

It is Buccoxime 10 195583 (Symrise)​

https://www.symrise.com/fileadmin/symrise/Marketing/Scent_and_care/Aroma_molecules/Ingredient_finder/SYM_PC_Datenblaetter/SYM_PC-Buccoxime.pdf

It costs around $30/100ml in my city.

Also i recommend to add in your formula
Datilat (Symrise) ~ 440-490
& Gamma Octalactone ~ 270-290

in case if you put Stemone - 90-100

and reduсe Hey Absolute 12 - it seems too much to me

You can try to use a hay accord instead
with Linalool, Lavender, Benzophenone and Acetophenone.

 

[LaurenStahl]

Thanks a lot. Ill try that also ! thanks for the suggestions... It is not my formula. its from Labtorium Formulas. Wanted to test it to see if their accords was any good.

Lars

It is Buccoxime 10 195583 (Symrise)​

https://www.symrise.com/fileadmin/symrise/Marketing/Scent_and_care/Aroma_molecules/Ingredient_finder/SYM_PC_Datenblaetter/SYM_PC-Buccoxime.pdf

It costs around $30/100ml in my city.

Also i recommend to add in your formula
Datilat (Symrise) ~ 440-490
& Gamma Octalactone ~ 270-290

in case if you put Stemone - 90-100

and reduсe Hey Absolute 12 - it seems too much to me

You can try to use a hay accord instead
with Linalool, Lavender, Benzophenone and Acetophenone.

 

[Bugman]

Ahhh sorry i did not see the link....Super.. Yeah i will try it and see. I am new to this as you might now, so i am trying outsome already made accords and formulas to understand the ingredients better. I also bought a formula from Jamie Frater (did not make it yet) waiting for 1 ingredient for that one... and some accords from PA (perfumers Aprentice) tried a few there and they honestly smell real nice.
Do you or anyone have any info about Creative Formulas.com and how they hold up ?.

I bought one from Creative Formulas. Still waiting for a couple things for it. I'll let you know how it comes out.

 

[ScentAle]

In the trying, I would try with less cassis base, and adding some gamma octalactone, dmbc butyrate, and adding beta/delta damascone and some musks.

 

[Claus]

I bought one from Creative Formulas. Still waiting for a couple things for it. I'll let you know how it comes out.

Have you finally tried the formula you bought? which was? what did you think about the original?

 

[Bugman]

Have you finally tried the formula you bought? which was? what did you think about the original?

I did. I got silver mountain water. Turned out great. He did change the formula recently and I have not tried the newest version yet. Excellent site, you can change the percentages and the amounts and it will auto change it for you. There's suggested replacers for some of the chemicals if you do not have some, as well. It was very helpful seeing a full formula. He has also dropped his prices. Well worth it for education. He also has all the information for all of the chems he uses. Very interesting. I have been doing this for only 6 months, and having never seen a full formula, it really had me purchasing larger amounts of some chemicals that I had only smaller samples of. Feel free to ask me anything else about it!

 

[gpetitg]

I did. I got silver mountain water. Turned out great. He did change the formula recently and I have not tried the newest version yet. Excellent site, you can change the percentages and the amounts and it will auto change it for you. There's suggested replacers for some of the chemicals if you do not have some, as well. It was very helpful seeing a full formula. He has also dropped his prices. Well worth it for education. He also has all the information for all of the chems he uses. Very interesting. I have been doing this for only 6 months, and having never seen a full formula, it really had me purchasing larger amounts of some chemicals that I had only smaller samples of. Feel free to ask me anything else about it!

Hello! What about the Labtorium formulas? Did those come out good enough? Thanks!

 

[LaurenStahl]

Hello! What about the Labtorium formulas? Did those come out good enough? Thanks!

I have formulas from Jamie Frater, Labtorium and Creative formulas..
jamie Fraters formulas are very good
Creative formulas are also awesome.
From Creative Formulas i tested their Blue de chanel both EDT and Perfum. both smell very very close to original. If just caring for the scent, it smell amazing and their drydown is also very balanced.
Jamies have lots of vintage formulas, Patou pour homme wish i made and itsa simply amazing.

labtorium , I bought 2 of their formulas, but they are long formulas and i had to many ingredients missing so i did not try them yet. so these i cannot speak for yet.
If your new to perfumery then the only issue i had with the formulas from Labtorium is their spelling (i think they are french ?) So i had a hard time understanding what ingredient they meant sometimes. but if you have good knowledge of ingredients then its no biggy.

 

[gpetitg]

I have formulas from Jamie Frater, Labtorium and Creative formulas..
jamie Fraters formulas are very good
Creative formulas are also awesome.
From Creative Formulas i tested their Blue de chanel both EDT and Perfum. both smell very very close to original. If just caring for the scent, it smell amazing and their drydown is also very balanced.
Jamies have lots of vintage formulas, Patou pour homme wish i made and itsa simply amazing.

labtorium , I bought 2 of their formulas, but they are long formulas and i had to many ingredients missing so i did not try them yet. so these i cannot speak for yet.
If your new to perfumery then the only issue i had with the formulas from Labtorium is their spelling (i think they are french ?) So i had a hard time understanding what ingredient they meant sometimes. but if you have good knowledge of ingredients then its no biggy.

Thanks for replying!

I def will check those out! I haven’t purchased from Labtorium, but I am going to try Fahrenheit, Allure and Encre Noire. Now, these last two I LOVE THEM and know them well, so will see how they come out. Unfortunately I am missing some of the ingredients, like 15 lol, but I literally just added them to my cart lol

And yes, they have spelling issues, but if you type the ingredient name plus “good scents” on Google, you’ll get it right and even find out that you may have it already, but with a different name!! Like Prunolide, which turned out to be Aldehyde C14. Fixolide is Tonalide, isoboynylcyclohexanol I think you can replace it with Sandela (I hope) etc

It’s time consuming but you learn while doing it.

Leaving aside the hate comments, they seem legit. They may not be perfect, but I’m sure you can tweak the formulas to bring the scent where you want it!

 

[pkiler]

Prunolide, which turned out to be Aldehyde C14.

First, these aldehydes, are erroneously called such, 14, 16, 18, and NONE of them are aldehydes.
Second, Prunolide is associated with gamma-nonalactone (aldehyde C-18 (so-called)), and not gamma-undecalactone (aldehyde C-14 (so-called))

 

[gpetitg]

First, these aldehydes, are erroneously called such, 14, 16, 18, and NONE of them are aldehydes.
Second, Prunolide is associated with gamma-nonalactone (aldehyde C-18 (so-called)), and not gamma-undecalactone (aldehyde C-14 (so-called))

Oops, you are right, I meant C18.
Thanks God there’s people out there anxious to call out mistakes! 😁

 

[LaurenStahl]

Thanks for replying!

I def will check those out! I haven’t purchased from Labtorium, but I am going to try Fahrenheit, Allure and Encre Noire. Now, these last two I LOVE THEM and know them well, so will see how they come out. Unfortunately I am missing some of the ingredients, like 15 lol, but I literally just added them to my cart lol

And yes, they have spelling issues, but if you type the ingredient name plus “good scents” on Google, you’ll get it right and even find out that you may have it already, but with a different name!! Like Prunolide, which turned out to be Aldehyde C14. Fixolide is Tonalide, isoboynylcyclohexanol I think you can replace it with Sandela (I hope) etc

It’s time consuming but you learn while doing it.

Leaving aside the hate comments, they seem legit. They may not be perfect, but I’m sure you can tweak the formulas to bring the scent where you want it!

if your ordering farenheit. order from Creative Formulas.. you simply just need to read the reviews under that scent to know why ! and i would suggest Layton from perfum de marly from Creative Formulas.. just made it and its simply amazing !! GCMS came out 98% identical to original as i was told by Filipe who is the perfumer at Creative Formulas.

 

[DruidHR]

I def will check those out! I haven’t purchased from Labtorium, but I am going to try Fahrenheit, Allure and Encre Noire. Now, these last two I LOVE THEM and know them well, so will see how they come out. Unfortunately I am missing some of the ingredients, like 15 lol, but I literally just added them to my cart lol

Have you tried any of the Allure from Labtorium? If yes, how good were they?

 

[Bugman]

Thanks for replying!

I def will check those out! I haven’t purchased from Labtorium, but I am going to try Fahrenheit, Allure and Encre Noire. Now, these last two I LOVE THEM and know them well, so will see how they come out. Unfortunately I am missing some of the ingredients, like 15 lol, but I literally just added them to my cart lol

And yes, they have spelling issues, but if you type the ingredient name plus “good scents” on Google, you’ll get it right and even find out that you may have it already, but with a different name!! Like Prunolide, which turned out to be Aldehyde C14. Fixolide is Tonalide, isoboynylcyclohexanol I think you can replace it with Sandela (I hope) etc

It’s time consuming but you learn while doing it.

Leaving aside the hate comments, they seem legit. They may not be perfect, but I’m sure you can tweak the formulas to bring the scent where you want it!

Creative Formulas site is excellent. Has cas numbers and everything. Even if they are not too close to originals you still end up with amazing scents.

 

[TSp71]

if your ordering farenheit. order from Creative Formulas.. you simply just need to read the reviews under that scent to know why ! and i would suggest Layton from perfum de marly from Creative Formulas.. just made it and its simply amazing !! GCMS came out 98% identical to original as i was told by Filipe who is the perfumer at Creative Formulas.

The Fahrenheit formula is not available anymore. If I visit their site the search returns nothing. If I google "creative formulas fahrenheit" I find the page where it is offered, but it says it is being reformulated but neither a "buy" button nor a price or an estimate when it will be available again.
Too sad, because I would have loved to toy around with that.

 

[Bugman]

The Fahrenheit formula is not available anymore. If I visit their site the search returns nothing. If I google "creative formulas fahrenheit" I find the page where it is offered, but it says it is being reformulated but neither a "buy" button nor a price or an estimate when it will be available again.
Too sad, because I would have loved to toy around with that.

I think he found a GCMS company that he likes better than he had before. Supposedly it has better returns. I wouldn't be surprised if it returns.

 

[Pamplenuit]

When I started, I learned a lot from JFrater's Formulas but am unsure if they are still available.

 

[Scentbox]

Creative Formulas site is excellent. Has cas numbers and everything. Even if they are not too close to originals you still end up with amazing scents.

I went on a little exploration and comparison and I got a few formulas from Creative Formulas and found them quite different from the original Fragrances.

JFrater's, Fragrantcode, and Wisemoor (although someone mentioned there are lots of typos and materials in a foreign language on Wisemoor) are almost identical to the originals.

 

[LaurenStahl]

I went on a little exploration and comparison and I got a few formulas from Creative Formulas and found them quite different from the original Fragrances.

JFrater's, Fragrantcode, and Wisemoor (although someone mentioned there are lots of typos and materials in a foreign language on Wisemoor) are almost identical to the originals.

Strange. I have several o the Wisemoor and just did the "De marly Layton and Layton exclusive" that I bought from them and compared it to Felipes from Creative Formulas. and the creative formulas version smell amazing.
When I mix I want to be able to see what I do and easily read and understand what ingredient I am using. not have to go to search what it "might be" Filipes page is awesome as not only can you directly see what the ingredient is, you can also search for the ingredient directly on his page to learn more about it and also he gives the option of substitutions for some ingredients in case you might not have a specific ingredient. A really good all in all solution. I would suggest Wisemore to work on their page to make it more appealing and go over their ingredients spelling to make it more understandable for the layman.

 

[Scentbox]

Hi Lauren, I did not try those specific ones but I have tried other formulas from many sites and I find Wisemoor's GC's quite accurate although the page design is a mess. I find some replacement suggestions from Creative formulas also incorrect, for example, Cis-Jasmone for Jasmolactone Delta or some of the Lyral replacements -( in this case they are not so simple to replacer for only one material only). This may also be my personal preference but I don't want to read a formula like a recipe for cooking and maybe I don't like fitting materials in categories when some materials and not so easy to box in just one category. I am sure Filipes is a nice guy, this is just my personal take on the content not so much the presentation

 

[jfrater]

When I started, I learned a lot from JFrater's Formulas but am unsure if they are still available.

I have a lot of actual formulas on fraterworks which I use as demonstrators for the bases. The Fraterworks bases are all free to download and use.

 

[LaurenStahl]

Have you tried any of the Allure from Labtorium? If yes, how good were they?

I tried their free allure formula. it's nice, but I dont have the original so I can't compare it.

 

[filipeleira]

@LaurenStahl @Bugman @Scentbox dear friends, I appreciate your thoughts about my formulas.

I've seen some Wisemoor formulas and I must say that my work is quite different from his, honestly they look like shortened GCMS reports with a few common oils identified, with many of the mistakes I also made when I was starting out in perfumery.

But now the work I put into turning the GCMS reports into formulas is very meticulous, exhausting and time consuming (sometimes it takes me months to finish); I make dozens or even hundreds of attempts, versions, modifications, until I get the best possible result. Identifying essential oils, absolutes, bases and chemical reactions in reports is not an easy job and requires a lot of knowledge, research, practice, nose, time.. But time goes by so fast for me as I work alone and do absolutely everything on my website (from programming, design, marketing, email support, management) in addition to the formulas, almost every day.

I'm glad people learn from my work (that's the main reason my website exists since 2020) so I take that responsibility very seriously, which is why I chose to focus on quality over quantity. Unfortunately it's not always possible to get very close to the original perfumes, as we can't source the captive molecules, proprietary bases and other exclusive ingredients. I can get pretty close depending on the fragrance, but one thing is for sure, I always try my best.

@Scentbox the replacement suggestions system is automatic, but I understand it's not that simple in real life. This feature will be removed in a future website update, and I will provide a better tool to find more complex replacements options (like Lyral)