What did you try today? (2023)

Clarissochka

Basenotes Junkie
Jul 1, 2015
Philosykos EDT vs EDP
I'm a bit embarrassed to say that I never compared them side by side.

EDT: New growth with tender leaves. The jovial naivete of picking figs only to realize that they're unripe - somewhat sweet but mostly astringent-bitter.
EDP: Large tree with gigantic leaves. Blissfulness that comes with maturity. A bit too cut-grassy/crushed stems for my liking, but I love woodiness here, it reminds me of napping under a tree as a child.

Both are beautiful, although I prefer wearing the EDT more. I know that they're both tragically short-lived, but I can always spray on clothes.
Thank you for doing side to side on these 2. I have been meaning to do side by side, but really do not want to make it to the store. I have EDP and have been curious abt what I might be missing with EDT.
 

exquisitecrops

Basenotes Member
Sep 3, 2022
Thank you for doing side to side on these 2. I have been meaning to do side by side, but really do not want to make it to the store. I have EDP and have been curious abt what I might be missing with EDT.
I hope that helped! If money was no object I'd buy both and layer them - EDP for the intense leafy scent, EDT for the tender fruitiness.

Still can't go wrong with either, they're so similar!
 

Schubertian

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 8, 2021
Mon Nom Est Rouge by Majda Bekkali. It reminds me somewhat of Amouage Epic; it's a bit sweeter or more 'gourmand' and I need to wear them side by side to really smell the differences. Perhaps to a lesser extent also Amouage Lyric. Cecile Zarokian created both Mon Nom Est Rouge and (partly) Epic. What's common to all three is that besides the rose, they have a ton of other things going on (the 'kitchen sink' approach to perfumery, which I like!) I admit I was initially drawn to this one because of its name (I loved the book by Orhan Pamuk) and the sculptural bottle. Luckily I also like it.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Soivohle - Filigree the Nightingale: Draped in Aubergine (2009 - discontinued)

Iris is the dominant note in this perfume, set against a rich palette of ripe berries and purple plums with a heart of orchids, jasmine and tuberose, a touch of spice and a rich sultry musk with labdanum and mossy undertones. This scent is both sweet and dry.

Inspired by the materials, and the perfumer’s love of orris. One of the most luxuriant as well as costly of all natural plant extracts.


The fruit notes in Filigree the Nightingale are ultimately too sweet for me, but the underlying iris chypre is still a thing of beauty. A little less compote, and I’d be all in. Just as well, though, as there’s apparently none left to be all into.
 
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Sep 29, 2022
Bowling Green by Geoffrey Beene
I was inspired to sample this (I have a 15ML mini) after watching a review by the wonderful Lanier Smith. I think it's ~nice~ but it totally doesn't suit me.

I wore Bowling Green while running errands today. I was aware of it everywhere I went, and I thought I must have smelled very dated. It's a big kitchen sink of ingredients. The whole spice cabinet. About 8 different citruses. Pine, Fir, Rosewood, Sandalwood, Cedar, Oakmoss! The overall effect is very terpen-y, astringent, but also dusty (not powdery). Overall, I don't like it even half as much as it's companion - Grey Flannel.

I could see it being lovely on someone else! It is fresh, has some depth, strikes me as being "athletic" somehow...

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Video - Lanier Smith reviews Bowling Green
 

cheapimitation

Basenotes Dependent
May 15, 2015
Strangelove Dead of Night
Initial thought was "oooh this is the skanky one." A strong opening with a hint of fecal/barnyard smell. My friend who was with me when I sprayed it and works in art restoration said it smells like when you take the burlap off a very old painting or open an old chest. I sprayed very cautiously at first thinking this was going to be a big perfume, but it very quickly quiets down. The animalics disappear within about 15 minutes and it becomes a very soft cozy woody scent, it has a creamy floral texture with the smell of dusty old wood and a slight bit of medicinal camphor. Within 30 minutes it becomes VERY quiet, so much so I resprayed once... and then again an hour later. It is more present now but remains very close to the skin.

The good news is, the tame dry down makes it very easy to wear. The bad news is for such an expensive perfume, I'm a bit let down at how quickly it goes quiet. I also don't get the rose or many other notes listed. Maybe a testament to the refined blending, but I just get more or less a single, though complex, smell of dusty old wood.

So far my favorite from the line remains the first one I tried Fall Into Stars which maybe set my expectations too high. Dead of Night is very beautiful and easy to wear, but it doesn't wow me enough for the price point like Fall Into Stars did.
 

Ed Wardian

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 28, 2020
Ambre Loup by Rania J… A couple spritzes on a tester strip that had a noticeable golden honey blot on the edges, I knew this beauty was gonna be howlin’ off the gate… Indeed, thick, tarry, spicy funk that initially had a wrinkled effect on the ole noggin, one that evolved into a tail wagging and slightly sweet coo of ‘chutneyfied’ tobacco vanilla so tender contrasting with sweaty sour in its woody base… Ooh, I can see this furry wonder wearing my hood sooner than later…

Santal du Pacifique by Perris Monte Carlo… Given the top carrot and hearty ‘lip gloss’ note, my expectation was for an eye-ballin’ Jessica Rabbit bounce only to get a tranny Bugs Bunny flaunting much of nothing… Barely breathing on the strip, unfortunately this one seems like a lighter and boring take on the sandalwood-iris-fig spin for my taste… Nice bottle though.
 

Toxicon

Basenotes Dependent
May 29, 2021
Amoauge Opus VI - first time sampling an Amoauge, having nabbed a carded sample I threw into a larger order. Unsurprisingly, this is a heavy, mega-strong amber. Labdanum accented with incense, pepper, papyrus, bay leaf, sandalwood, and a dose of cypriol. I can see why this has fans, but it's not really my thing. The opening hits like a jackhammer and takes a long time to settle into something wearable (to my nose), and that's just a single spray from my tiny sample bottle. Not sure if it's the pepper or the synthwoods (Z11 is a listed note), but something feels a bit harsh and scratchy and takes a good while to quiet down. That said, I do like the leathery, animalic aspect of the heavy labdanum in the heart. I'm still curious to smell Jubilation XXV and some of the other big Amoauge releases, but this first exposure will help tamp down my expectations.

EDITED to add: just read some of the basenotes reviews and it's wild how scattered they are. Someone calls this a "brilliant chypre", others are mentioning florals, citruses, civet, powder... lots of other things I'm not smelling at all. Oddly, as it dries down further, there is a rose note coming through alongside some dirty patchouli. Certainly a lot going on here, but it's more cacophony than "opus".
 
Sep 29, 2022
Goutal - Rose Absolue
An excellent rose soliflore in classic Annick Goutal fashion - soft, vintage, and sparkling. For hopeless romantics only.
4/5
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Thundra - Profumum Roma
Interesting! Profumum Roma offers only three notes for Thundra: Patchouli, Musk, and Mint. It smells a bit like damp earth + mint-chocolate chip ice cream. It's too "cold" to be cozy, but there is an addictive "nuzzle-me" quality about it. I could see it being GREAT on a hot humid summer day.
3.5/5
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PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Soivohle - Solstice (c. 2008)

“Originally titled Peace On Earth, Solstice has become one of our most beloved scents. Rich notes of Frankincense from Oman, Jasmine, Roses, Amber, Oakmoss, Woods and Laotian Oud. It wears close to the skin, is warm and sensual, Perfect for celebrating the Solstice, or relaxing by the fireplace.”

“Solstice is a softly floral and spicy Oriental scent, with hints of alpine and moss. It is warm and a touch sharp, open and expansive. Frankincense from both Somalia and Oman make up the base along with Sweet Myrrh (opopanax) and a blend of woods, orris, patchouli and vanilla, yet not too heavy on the Vanilla. The Frankincense really shines in this perfume.”


I got soaked in Clandestine Laboratories Wendover when my bottle slipped out of the box and shattered on the floor: kinda hard to smell anything else now. But, to the extent I can (and did pre-disaster)…

My sample of Solstice adheres more closely to the second paragraph above, lifted from a Wayback Machine snapshot of Soivohle’s site from 2008. I’m not exactly getting a snootful of the Laotian oud noted in Zorn’s other description. Either way, it does indeed sit close to the skin, where I have to say it doesn’t do much. At least, not for me. I love incense, but with more presence.

A more recent and/or better preserved sample might suit me more. As with many other of my Soivohle samples, though, this appears to be out of production.
 
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cheapimitation

Basenotes Dependent
May 15, 2015
MDCI Chypre Palatin
I've tried this a few times on and off through the years due to the heaps of praise it gets. It's funny how the conditions can change your perception of a perfume, I never noticed until today testing from a spray from Osswald ( a great source for samples btw!) how prominent the aldehydes are! I almost thought they sent me the wrong thing until I looked up the notes and aldehydes are indeed listed. I previously tested in store and from a Luckyscent dabber vile, I think the opening top notes could have been lost or muted in those samples, but today I feel like I'm getting the full experience from this spray vial.

Starts almost like a skanky Chanel No. 5. As it dries down it gets sweeter and creamier, I still get soapy aldehyde mixed with a little animalic funk and an almost stewed fruit and floral leather combo. It smell very old fashioned to me and I don't really like it. Still, it is a pretty interesting and complex fragrance.
 

Schubertian

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 8, 2021
Muscs Koublai Khan. From a sample sent by a kind basenoter. I'm (just a bit) late to trying this classic of stank; I first read about it more than 15 years ago when I was first exploring the Serge Lutens brand, and I didn't have the courage to try it until I was given the sample.

Well, here's the thing: I didn't smell any poop, or anything disgusting like that. My immediate reaction was: Salome. Except there's much more going on in Salome. I mean, to me the musk is the same. I don't smell any rose in MKK (much more so in Salome, also the jasmine in Salome is to die for) and I didn't pick up distinct cumin, whereas Salome is really strong on the cumin. Overall impression: dirty, animalic - yes - but not unpleasant or gross. Would I wear it on myself? No, sniffing it on my arm I found it both attractive and repellent at the same time, but if I put more on I can imagine feeling overwhelmed and possibly a little nauseated. Now, Salome, I do wear (sometimes) and own a bottle of: I love it. It's enough for me.
 
Sep 29, 2022
Cuir de Chine - Les Indemodables

I am on a sampling journey this year, and have been smelling at least one new fragrance everyday. Cuir de Chine is one of the more interesting perfumes I've tried this year.

The opening is very complex, and I couldn't quite make heads or tails of it... but I'll come back to that. After initial burst, it settles into the osmanthus-apricot-fruitiness. I also get a bit of mandarin orange at this stage. It is clear to see that there are some accords that run through a LOT of these Les Indemodables: mandarin orange, clary sage, ambergris. Cuir de Chine's heart is very GREEN and very salty. At no point does it really recall leather for me. In the heart notes, I began to realize that I smelled distinctly of OLIVE. The flesh of the fruit and the fruitiness of olive oil... but also the green waxy leaves and grey bark... maybe even some brine. Osmanthus and olives (and jasmine, for that matter) are part of the same botanical family, but maybe this smell association is just my imagination. Lots of tobacco in the base.

Anyway. I sprayed some on my wrist again to write this up with fresh memory of the top notes. It smells 100% of the sticky dried buds of high-grade marijuana. That clary sage FUNK + tangy citrus + apricot fuzziness.

I like it a lot. 4/5

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PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Soivohle - Chrysalis Demi-Absolute (c. 2009)

A multi-layered incense perfume, with defining notes of absinthe and cognac, fig and organic butter tincture, with a fine floral heart of jasmine, orange blossom and carnation. Most unusual, yet elegant and sophisticated.

The notes in this description of Chrysalis from Soivohle's website in 2009 differ somewhat from those in the BN pyramid, which adds a spice rack of coriander, fennel, watermint, and ginger root, as well as fig, tonka, and orris. Most notably, the BN pyramid includes labdanum, which seems to be the closest this gets to being an incense fragrance. But, darned if a more olibanum-like note doesn't show up anyway after an hour or so—either an ingredient omitted from the pyramid, or a "ghost note" effect of mixing the absinthe, spices, and carnation.

In any case, layered it is: Chrysalis opens like a slightly animalic oriental, before it confounds expectations and ditches the hints of sweet funk for an ethereal, minty smoke. Typical of the Soivohles I've sampled thus far, performance is decidedly subtle—subtle enough that I probably wouldn't buy this myself if it were still in production, and I'm not a performance junkie. But if your tastes run to intriguing whispers, you might well feel differently about that.
 
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ultravisitor

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 4, 2014
I was at Neiman Marcus today and saw that they carry the Mind Games line. I tried a few of them and came across one that I think is pretty cool: Grand Master.

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The notes according to Fragrantica: Top notes are Black Currant, Rose Water and Peony; middle notes are Coffee, Violet and May Rose; base notes are Myrrh, Incense, Ebony and Panettone. Comparisons to Kilian are not unwarranted.

I only have it on a blotter, and I mainly get a nice, interesting blend of rose, coffee, and myrrh, though the black currant and panettone are there, as well. I'd definitely like to try this on skin and spend some more time with it.

And then when I got home, I looked up the line and saw that they have one from Annick Menardo: As-Suli's Diamond. Now I have to go back to Neiman Marcus to check out that one because Annick Menardo is awesome.
 

exquisitecrops

Basenotes Member
Sep 3, 2022
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Tom Ford Velvet Gardenia
A kind soul sent me a sample, saying that it is her holy grail, reference gardenia.

I like it! Truth be told, I don't enjoy the scent of gardenias, I find them off-putting.

I notice that perfumers build gardenia accords as a very creamy tuberose with hints of cheese-mushroom (Cruel Gardenia, Elie Saab Gardenia), or synchronized with tuberose (Melodie de L'Amour, Private Collection T + G) since that facet is very likeable.

Velvet Gardenia is on par with Tauer's Gardenia and Lutens' Une Voixe Noire, who are more interested in this polarizing facet I can only describe as "mothball, mint, and unripe strawberries with ginger-like spiciness". Tauer overemphasize that facet which I find disgusting, while Lutens hides the likeable creamy-mushroomy aspect and replace it with tobacco making it feel incomplete to me.

I don't enjoy wearing Velvet Gardenia, but I think it's a nice soliflore that accounts for every aspect of the living bloom.
 
Sep 29, 2022
Escale en Haiti - Les Indemodables
Haitian Vetiver, Juniper, Pink Pepper, Tonka Bean, Myrrh

Escale en Haiti was a surprise to me, as I was expecting a citrus accord, this being a vetiver eau de cologne. Instead, its freshness is derived from the "cool" spicy, mildly astringent juniper and pink pepper. The opening is fresh, aldehydic, and very minty. Mint isn't a listed note, but I feel like pink pepper, juniper, myrrh, and vetiver can all have minty facets.

The dry down is a fresh-earthy-green vetiver. It's combined here with tonka bean, which I normally hate but don't mind here at all, and a lovely bit of myrrh - which stops the vetiver and tonka from going full-on barbershop.

It's nice, and I think it's very stylish and clever. I don't know if it will make the "want to buy" queue. 3.5/5

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PS: Reminds me a LOT of Cardinal by Heeley. Same sequence of aldehydes >Pink pepper >vetiver >myrrh.
 

Toxicon

Basenotes Dependent
May 29, 2021
Small order of samples came in today and thought I'd share first impressions:
  • Lutens Five O'Clock Gingembre - wearing this one today. Absolutely lovely, if a bit demure. It's a bit hard to pin this one down just because the constituent parts feel so familiar while the scent as a whole feels completely different from anything I own. There's a soft opening ginger, mixed with a sweetened tea and some earl-grey bergamot that gives this a slight "men's cologne" vibe without actually leaving the unisex zone. This feels like the Lutens equivalent of a dumb reach.
  • Lutens Cuir Mauresque - this has been on my radar for ages and I probably would have blind bought it by now if it wasn't so hard to find for a reasonable price. From a quick sniff, this seems like a surprisingly strong IBQ-style leather gussied up with florals and spices. My initial thought was this smells somehow old fashioned, but not necessarily "dated" - like a vintage leather trunk that's seen some travel. We'll see how it wears on skin, but I could definitely imagine hunting this one down.
  • Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle - holy hell, this has the weirdest top opening of anything I've ever smelled! Opening the cap felt like dunking my head in a barrel of melting mothballs - intensely sharp and mentholated, with some decadent florals underneath. I got a bit on my fingers and this stuff is strong. The opening is all shock and awe and seems to fade fast, and then you're left with a fleshy tuberose. Seems pretty unisex. I'm still deciding if I can hang with tuberose-focused scents, so we'll see how this fares with a proper wear.
  • Parfum d'Empire Mal-Aime - bitter green, astringent, "fresh" in a vegetal greenhouse kind of way. It's very hard to judge this one without wearing it, but it's definitely on the weird / interesting side and lives up to the marketing copy - this does feel like an ode to "weeds". Faintly reminds me of Naomi Goodsir's Nuit de Bakelite, which has some kind of stinging nettle impression - though this doesn't have any of the tuberose or insane green pepper notes that make that one scream off the skin. Hard to imagine how this one will feel on skin, but I'm curious.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Soivohle - Purple Love Smoke (2008)

Violet leaf, violets and earth. In creating this scent, the objective was to pattern a natural violet, and at the same time capture the scentual essence of the color purple. The darkness, the depth and the floral beauty.

Purple Love Smoke is a ridiculously good violet pipe tobacco chypre. I don’t know how broad a category that is, mind you, but I’d be fine with just this one. Even being sweeter than suits my usual taste, it’s just an irresistible cashmere blanket of a flavored tobacco scent that eschews the common vanilla and cherry.

Alas, it was discontinued a decade ago, and I have no idea where one would find if now. Perhaps Zorn will reissue it someday, but I’m not holding my breath.

(Addendum: Wife does not love. I will still seek.)
 
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cheapimitation

Basenotes Dependent
May 15, 2015
Gave a full wearing last night (and into this morning) of Strangelove Fall Into Stars. I think I can confirm it is my favorite of the set. It is maybe the most predictable of them all, it smells most like other luxury designer ouds (LV Ombre Nomade, Givenchy Equivoque) BUT it bests them all. It has no skankiness but a very pleasant smokey and woody quality and the complexity of what I presume is real oud that is not found in those designer ouds while still having the refinement and accessible nature of that genre of oud.

Like Dead of Night, the performance was strange but likely a feature of such a concentrated perfume. In both cases after the initial blast they became very quiet, but started to hum and warm up after a couple hours and smell glorious. It was smelling so nice this morning I almost didn't want to shower it off.

If you've tried a lot of ouds, you might think there's nothing to see here. But for me, I haven't purchased any ouds aside form Cartier Oud and Oud, and I'm feeling so happy I waited because I think this might be the one!
 

Ed Wardian

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 28, 2020
A few shot rings of Akkad by Lubin (2012) on the blotter strip ushered a tantalizing flare of the nostril taking in wiffs of mandarin, sage, and cardamom incensed in vanillic gummy resins playing an infectious refrain of 'L-O-L-A, Lola sipping a C-O-L-A, cola'. Surely, I got an impression of an amber frank that was comforting in its warm spicy nature given the cool season and thankfully rich and measured in its blend; overall tenderly smooth in its golden brown of seduction on the initial spritzes... Definitely, a future sample wearing on skin will unveil its true facet and justify whether this is premium worthy. So far my belated preview is good...

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Toxicon

Basenotes Dependent
May 29, 2021
Small order of samples came in today and thought I'd share first impressions:
  • Lutens Five O'Clock Gingembre - wearing this one today. Absolutely lovely, if a bit demure. It's a bit hard to pin this one down just because the constituent parts feel so familiar while the scent as a whole feels completely different from anything I own. There's a soft opening ginger, mixed with a sweetened tea and some earl-grey bergamot that gives this a slight "men's cologne" vibe without actually leaving the unisex zone. This feels like the Lutens equivalent of a dumb reach.
  • Lutens Cuir Mauresque - this has been on my radar for ages and I probably would have blind bought it by now if it wasn't so hard to find for a reasonable price. From a quick sniff, this seems like a surprisingly strong IBQ-style leather gussied up with florals and spices. My initial thought was this smells somehow old fashioned, but not necessarily "dated" - like a vintage leather trunk that's seen some travel. We'll see how it wears on skin, but I could definitely imagine hunting this one down.
  • Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle - holy hell, this has the weirdest top opening of anything I've ever smelled! Opening the cap felt like dunking my head in a barrel of melting mothballs - intensely sharp and mentholated, with some decadent florals underneath. I got a bit on my fingers and this stuff is strong. The opening is all shock and awe and seems to fade fast, and then you're left with a fleshy tuberose. Seems pretty unisex. I'm still deciding if I can hang with tuberose-focused scents, so we'll see how this fares with a proper wear.
  • Parfum d'Empire Mal-Aime - bitter green, astringent, "fresh" in a vegetal greenhouse kind of way. It's very hard to judge this one without wearing it, but it's definitely on the weird / interesting side and lives up to the marketing copy - this does feel like an ode to "weeds". Faintly reminds me of Naomi Goodsir's Nuit de Bakelite, which has some kind of stinging nettle impression - though this doesn't have any of the tuberose or insane green pepper notes that make that one scream off the skin. Hard to imagine how this one will feel on skin, but I'm curious.
Now wearing Cuir Mauresque. Definitely not a "modern" leather - this is a gorgeous floral leather. I haven't smelled Cuir de Russie or Knize Ten, but this is how I always imagined they might smell. If you squint there's a whiff of cherry, maybe a touch of bathroom cleaning products. All in good fun.
 

cheapimitation

Basenotes Dependent
May 15, 2015
Man, I really want to sample ALL of the Cartier Oud Voyages line (or whatever it's called.) Oud & Oud, Oud & Menthe, Oud & Musc, Oud & Pink. I really love what Mathilde Laurent has done with the Cartier Heures line.

Assuming you like the Oud & Oud?
Yes it's really nice! Fairly subtle as oud goes, sits close to the skin but lasts forever and warms up nicely as I experienced with Strangelove. It is fairly simple but again the complexity comes from all the subtle facets of the star ingredient. Laurent has a very particular way with oud that becomes very recognizable throughout the line. The others I've tried have nearly the same basic oud accord to my nose plus the flourish of the added ingredient (ginger, mint, rose etc) so I personally would find it redundant to own more than one unless you just can't get enough of her oud accord. It's hard to describe but I would say her oud is first very smooth and emphasizes more the bright (almost sour but not in a bad way) and hay like aspects of oud rather than the smokey and dark side of oud. I do get wafts of smokey/incense from Oud and Oud as it warms up on skin, almost like whisps of a burning ember, but it never feels heavy.

I'm glad I got just plain Oud and Oud, but if I was to get one more I might go for Oud and Menthe. I haven't yet smelled Oud and Santal, Oud and Musk or Oud and Rose.
 
Sep 29, 2022
  • Les Indemodables - Escale en Indonesie
    • Undeniably smooth, but It didn't float my boat. 3/5
    • (Reminds me a lot of Goutal's Eau de Sud)
  • Heeley - Iris de Nuit
    • Love all of the notes, love this house. But Iris de Nuit does nothing for me. 3/5
 

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