What did you try today? (2023)

cheapimitation

Basenotes Dependent
May 15, 2015
B683 Extrait, a powerful modern woody fruity and new leather smell. Although it is strong I didn't find it overwhelming or cloying but it's still going the day after. The late dry down is warm and spicy, I can see why its so popular. The green apple was a great idea as I found the freshness nicely balanced the other elements, it was overall a lot more fresh and fruity than I had imagined. I'm still not sure this is for me, I really liked regular B683 but found it a bit quiet and non-descript. This certainly fixes that problem but it still might be a bit extroverted for my taste.
 
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Reiu

Basenotes Member
Feb 16, 2023
Sounds like a perfectly reasonable response to Dryad. I've come to really appreciate it after sampling several times, but I still find it a bit heavy - more of a cold weather scent than I was expecting given the notes. All told, it feels quite dense and "perfumey" for lack of a better word, though the ingredient quality seems quite high. I'm nearly done with my sample and might pick up a decant at some point, but I doubt I'll spring for a full bottle.
Yes, it definitely seemed well-made and made with good ingredients! And I get what you mean by dense and "perfumey." I had mistakenly expected more of a fresh herbal green fragrance, which is where my personal preferences lean, but I can see why people appreciate it :)
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
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Vivamor - Aura Celeste

Aura Celeste’s note pyramid had me looking forward to an interesting day. Somehow, the fragrance managed to shoehorn rosewood, pepper, cardamon, and olibanum into a Pop-Tarts fruit filling. Which is interesting—but in an uninteresting way.
 
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PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
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Vivamor - Rouge Impériale

I'm in my final Vivamor stretch, with all the remaining fragrances composed by Christian Carbaonnel and coincidentally (or not) featuring what are for me the most promising note pyramids. While low expectations may be a factor, I'm pretty happy with the first, Rouge Impériale. I'm not getting a whole lot of rose—not exactly a rare note in either perfumery at large or my collection, so I'm OK with that, even if it renders this a bit less "rouge." Overall, it leans woody, especially toward cedar. It's not sawdust, though. The suede note mixes with some deep jasmine indoles to give this an animalic tinge, thankfully more defining than the barely-there vanilla. There's not quite enough saffron, orris, and sandalwood for this to feel all that "impériale," but putting that standard aside, it's a pretty nice blend.

Now, relative to frags with similar pyramids that are richer in pricey naturals, Rouge Impériale is like really good mid-fi compared to hi-fi, and that might put you off spending $1.50/ml for it. Still, worth a sniff to see if you want to keep an eye out for when the line arrives at FragranceNet.
 
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PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
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Vivamor - Urbane

Perusing the note pyramid, Urbane would appear to be an orange-fronted "oriental fougère," and wearing it, it appears to be the same. Basically, a twist on an eau de Portugal—itself similar to a traditional eau de cologne—and, surprisingly enough, quite a nice one. I'll have to compare it to the Trumper's Eau de Portugal that's due to arrive tomorrow. A bit pricey for what it is, but better that than, well, anything else in the line that I've tried.

*

Postscript: Had to run out to dinner, so I just went with Urbane. I embraced a friend when I arrived, who said, “Wow, you smell great!” So, another “aye” vote.
 
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RawM.I.A.

Wait, What's That Smell?!
Basenotes Plus
Jan 25, 2017
Amouage Search and Purpose arrived at the local shop so, with trepidation due to mediocre reviews, I scored a bottle of each.
Applied Search outdoors in just above freezing temps. Shockingly good performance. A kaleidoscope of the notes top to base rotating through with some punch in the first minutes. Later, indoors, several hours of interplay while drifting more towards a smokey wood base. Playful, entertaining, and unique in my experience.
Purpose is an enigma. Raises the brow on first application and not in a particularly good way but it grows on you... slowly drawing you in. Maybe the marketing verbiage is accurate on this one! An awakening of some fashion. Need several wearings to decipher this oddly blended scent. Again unique to this nose and a most interesting addition to my collection.
Neither of these strikes me as leaning towards the designer or crowd pleasing end of the spectrum. Both exceeded my expectations and are vastly superior to some recent, more mainstream, purchases.
Can't wait to sample all 4, glad to hear they were to your liking.


Sahraa Oud by Fragrance Du Bois
A local shop started selling this house a few months ago. Have long wanted to try a few of them (thanks to Hednic) but was turned off by availability and the number of social media influencers who say they weren't influenced by receiving numerous 'free" discovery sets and full presentations. Availability was solved but not the influencers. As a result I played safe and bought bottles of Amouage and only sampled FDB. Easily would have done the opposite, if not for the influencers, who did indeed influence me.
Sahara Oud can stand on its own as it turns out. Totally wearable and very enjoyable. Leaning mainstream more than many of my oud themed perfumes. Reasonably true to the marketing.
I turn towards Agar Aura oils for this more luxurious type of experience and Cartier or Malle for a little more oud punch in a spray format.
I see a bottle of Sahraa Oud in my future once (if?) the influence of the influencers wears off.
Sahraa is wonderful, but imho Parisian Oud is even better, pls get your nose on it if you haven't already.
 
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cheapimitation

Basenotes Dependent
May 15, 2015
I went to Hermes to try Un Jardin a Cythere which I wrote about here (I really liked it)

But I also tried Cabriole while I was there which I've been very curious about. It is still sold out but he said it will be coming back in stock. It is a nice comforting soapy sandalwood, kind of reminds me of Cartier L'Heure Promise which is all soapy sandalwood in the base after the puff of iris fades off. I didn't necessairly get osmanthus or honeysuckle but I think they were lending to the fine french bar of soap feel. It was nice, nothing to get too excited about but it could be a very nice spritz on before bed or comforting at home scent. It was also a very cold day and I have a feeling I'd get more out of it with a bit of body heat.
 

teardrop

Basenotes Institution
Sep 1, 2010
As l'm currently on the lookout for a nutty/gourmand/woody fragrance to fill a gap in my wardrobe, l added a few contenders to my recent Luckyscent order. Yesterday l tried Praline in Maple by Scents of Wood:

This is a deeply satisfying scent of smoky woods, recognisably cedar & guiacwood, with an underlying sweetness. lt's nowhere near as sweet as the name might suggest, however, & l think a man could easily wear & enjoy it. The nutty note comes through after a few minutes, but l don't pick up on the maple syrup until around five hours in, & by this time it's quite close to the skin. The projection is low to moderate, but l only dabbed from a vial, & it was a cold day. Nine hours in there are just traces left on my skin.

Reviews on the Other Site mention spices, but l didn't detect them. Many also compare it with Replica's By the Fireplace, but l haven't tried that one, so can't comment. l really enjoyed this one though, & l recommend trying it if you're into this type of thing.
 

ChypreInBloom

Super Member
Jun 1, 2022
As l'm currently on the lookout for a nutty/gourmand/woody fragrance to fill a gap in my wardrobe, l added a few contenders to my recent Luckyscent order. Yesterday l tried Praline in Maple by Scents of Wood:

This is a deeply satisfying scent of smoky woods, recognisably cedar & guiacwood, with an underlying sweetness. lt's nowhere near as sweet as the name might suggest, however, & l think a man could easily wear & enjoy it. The nutty note comes through after a few minutes, but l don't pick up on the maple syrup until around five hours in, & by this time it's quite close to the skin. The projection is low to moderate, but l only dabbed from a vial, & it was a cold day. Nine hours in there are just traces left on my skin.

Reviews on the Other Site mention spices, but l didn't detect them. Many also compare it with Replica's By the Fireplace, but l haven't tried that one, so can't comment. l really enjoyed this one though, & l recommend trying it if you're into this type of thing.
Have you tried Aimez-moi comme je suis from Caron? It's a very nice, gourmand nutty vétiver which I tried recently. Not sugary at all. Rather masculine at the start but then it gets pretty amazing and softer. You may like it.
 

teardrop

Basenotes Institution
Sep 1, 2010
Have you tried Aimez-moi comme je suis from Caron? It's a very nice, gourmand nutty vétiver which I tried recently. Not sugary at all. Rather masculine at the start but then it gets pretty amazing and softer. You may like it.

No, l haven't. l'm not generally a fan of vetiver, but l'll keep this one under consideration, thanks!
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
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Vivamor - Akoya

…a signature scent worthy fragrance making the wearer feel confident … uplifting and invigorating…

Not quite. There’s a slight but distinct canned-pineapple sweetness to the lemon and grapefruit opening of Akoya. It’s not hard to tell why it’s there, since when it recedes, I’m left with a citrus household cleaning product. A good one, mind you, but not anywhere I’d hoped this might go. It might be an unintentional effect of the ginger note. Incense? Where?
 
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Akahina

Basenotes Dependent
Jun 9, 2011
I smell chocolate and booze. My first impression is positive, hoping the chocolate fades as it's not my favorite note.

I smell chocolate and booze. My first impression is positive, hoping the chocolate fades as it's not my favorite note.
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Reiu

Basenotes Member
Feb 16, 2023
Accidentally tonka-themed day today.

Naked Dance by Oddity
Another sample from Scent Bar. I had such high hopes for this one since it smelled quite nice on paper, a gentle vetiver-tonka lightened up with a rice note and some citrus florals. Tonka is a material I do like on its own but is so often found in perfumes much too heavy for my tastes, so I was looking forward to this one. Honestly, the worst I was expecting from this one was for it to be inoffensive.

How wrong I was. On skin it was sickly sweet play-dough rice, harsh "cedar" (by which I mean of course it was a single-note that smells nothing like cedar EOs, probably Iso E Super??), all doused with something very plastic that gave me a ear-splitting headache. No sign of tonka or iris concrete or any of the nice things listed on the note pyramid. This time I didn't hesitate and just scrubbed.

Sometimes I wish I had a better vocabulary for aromachemicals since this plastic smell is one I recognize very clearly and recurringly but do not have the name for; and yet considering how many of them seem to give me problems (prior to my discovering fragrances I actually enjoy without giving me problems ranging from headaches to asthma to allergies, I was the kind of person who used fragrance-free everything) this is one area of knowledge that would not seem to be worth the risk on the journey to acquire it.

Amber Chocolate by La Via del Profumo / AbdesSalaam Attar
Normally I keep a very respectful distance from gourmands, possibly my least favorite genre of fragrance. I am the one person I know who mostly thinks of eating and food as a necessary but achingly dull chore. I simply do not like the smell or taste of most sweet or fried or starchy food, making it easy for me to plan my meals accordingly around nutrition and efficiency, so that might have something to do with my distaste for gourmands. Seeing "vanilla" listed on a note pyramid is usually enough to send me backing away, as are the words "indulgent" or "delicious" because very often those refer to smells I cannot stand even being around (they tend to come across as overbearing and cloying to me, resulting in disgust rather than appetite), never mind get stuck with one for hours.

But Amber Chocolate came as a sample with my previous discovery set order from the house, and I suppose after scrubbing Naked Dance I was feeling ready for anything...so when if not now?

And to my surprise I find it's---well, nice. It is very much chocolate, more melted dark chocolate fondue than a chocolate bar, but the vanilla is restrained enough to keep the fragrance from becoming too unctuous. And I smell tonka, which fortunately for me comes to dominate most the fragrance. I'm very relieved to find that Amber Chooclate, at least on me, becomes more about the amber than the chocolate.

It's a simple enough composition, definitely meant for people who would be attracted by the name. I am not one of them so I'm not sure that I would wear it again but it is done tastefully and possibly the first fragrance of its kind whose company I didn't mind, which I'll chalk down as an achievement!
 

PaTomas

Basenotes Dependent
May 10, 2018
As l'm currently on the lookout for a nutty/gourmand/woody fragrance to fill a gap in my wardrobe, l added a few contenders to my recent Luckyscent order. Yesterday l tried Praline in Maple by Scents of Wood:

This is a deeply satisfying scent of smoky woods, recognisably cedar & guiacwood, with an underlying sweetness. lt's nowhere near as sweet as the name might suggest, however, & l think a man could easily wear & enjoy it. The nutty note comes through after a few minutes, but l don't pick up on the maple syrup until around five hours in, & by this time it's quite close to the skin. The projection is low to moderate, but l only dabbed from a vial, & it was a cold day. Nine hours in there are just traces left on my skin.

Reviews on the Other Site mention spices, but l didn't detect them. Many also compare it with Replica's By the Fireplace, but l haven't tried that one, so can't comment. l really enjoyed this one though, & l recommend trying it if you're into this type of thing.
This is interesting that its not so sweet with such a name. I love By the Fireplace which is on the sweet and smoky side and dazzling in its approximation to sweet burning wood. I must try this Praline in Maple as I really enjoy sweet nutty woody, but I take gourmand to be a particular, perhaps sugary sweet not within the natural wood itself, if I'm making sense.
 

PaTomas

Basenotes Dependent
May 10, 2018
63902.jpg Yes, I tried for the first time upon blind buying a full bottle off a friend's recommendation. How well can a friend know you! I love this scent and would consider it worthy of signature. It's fascinating because its reminiscent of some sweet spicey, and to me, unrefined designers like Spicebomb and The One (Sorry to those fans), but after the beautiful opening, an oud texture smoothed by sandalwood and moving together with lavender and nutmeg (I detect) make a warm polished classy fragrance.
 

Mythrol

Basenotes Dependent
Jun 28, 2015
Davidoff Adventure Eau Fraiche.

A nice citrus, woodsy, musk. Perfectly acceptable and wearable as an everyday scent. Good enough that it made my cut of fragrances I'd keep and wear vs sell or get rid of. I'll use it as an office / go into store type fragrance. If you find it at a discounter or for a cheap price it's a safe blind buy for someone looking for an office scent but I wouldn't pay marked up prices or go chasing after it. Like hundreds of other fragrances I've tried it sits in that 6 or 7/10 range that is good but not spectacular.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
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Vivamor - Tobacco Supreme

…the ultimate tobacco fragrance…

Whether Tobacco Supreme is “the ultimate tobacco fragrance” depends on what sort of tobacco you want. This is of the Tobacco Vanille stripe: mild, sweetened, mass-appealing pipe tobacco. (Dr. T. remarked that I was wearing candy, and she didn’t mean it as a compliment.) I prefer it to the Tom Ford, as I get plenty of tobacco, albeit thoroughly defanged, and not so much vanilla. Aside from the candied amber, I think I detect the tiniest bit of (synth) guaiac, but otherwise all the lovely notes in the pyramid elude my nose.

The result is pretty straightforward. It’s quite good of its kind, but I wouldn’t call its kind “ultimate” or “supreme.” Had there been some real interplay between the tobacco and the alleged florals—and had it relied more on the rose than high-fructose amber for the sweetness—it might have been more captivating. Still, if you love Tobacco Vanille, this might just curl your toes.
 
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Sep 29, 2022
Musc 25 by Le Labo (Los Angeles City Exclusive)

It's nice. It shares a LOT in common with Kiehl's Original Musk, but Musc 25 is a sharper, sparklier, "more expensive" smelling take on that classic. There's a lovely fruitiness up top, and some vetiver in the base. 100% unisex. The price is absolutely offensive.

An attempt to conjure the brilliant highlights and dark shadows of Southern California... 3/5

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Schubertian

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 8, 2021
I'm wearing Cuir d'orient (Sous le Manteau) on one arm and Cuir velours (Naomi Goodsir) on the other as I type this.
Earlier in the day I tried Dior's Gris Dior and Bois d'Argent at the store (on skin).

I see reviews are lukewarm about Cuir velours - but I'm loving it. Sooo lovely. I have to wear it properly because it is fairly sweet and there is a fruitiness. Sweetness can sometimes do a trick on me: smelled in a limited way the scent is amazing, but quickly becomes cloying on full wearing. :( (Edited to add: it did turn quite sweet in the drydow and more fruity than leathery for sure.)

Cuir d'orient I can't smell much, and I wonder if it's because it is very soft or because I'm partially anosmic to it.
Neither smells very leathery to me, more like very plush suede mixed with other notes.

I was a bit disappointed in the Diors. I realised now why Bois d'Argent is compared to VcA Bois d'Iris; they are highly similar. The Dior is perhaps a tad less sweet, and a bit sharper if I can put it like that. I didn't like it very much. Gris Dior.... well I got something very soft, quite pleasant, nice - but fuzzy and indistinct. Certainly nothing I'd blindly swear costs €225 a bottle. Glad I tried.
 
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Schubertian

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 8, 2021
Sounds like a perfectly reasonable response to Dryad. I've come to really appreciate it after sampling several times, but I still find it a bit heavy - more of a cold weather scent than I was expecting given the notes. All told, it feels quite dense and "perfumey" for lack of a better word, though the ingredient quality seems quite high. I'm nearly done with my sample and might pick up a decant at some point, but I doubt I'll spring for a full bottle.
I adore chypres, and I really like Dryad. I agree it's not light or fresh at all, rather dense and lush. Like you I don't think it's a summer perfume; I found it worked well recently when I wore it, and also in the autumn. I haven't found it very similar with any other of the chypre genre that I've tried, so in that sense it would be a worthy addition to my stash - but a decant would make more sense because it's not that often I'm in the mood for Dryad.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Another week, another house:

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As seems to be the vogue these days, an old French house has been revived, this time by the grandchildren of the founder—or rather, of the founder’s wife, a distinction the website doesn’t explain, but that suggests her children were conceived in another union. Whatever. The relevant part of the story is that five of the initial six offerings by the house are reinterpretations of Volnay scents from roughly a century ago, based on original formulae but tweaked to modern sensibilities and restrictions. The sixth is a new composition inspired by one of the revivals.

I have samples of four of the six, including the modern one and its inspiration. I’ll try those last. Up first:

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Volnay - Ambre de Siam

This perfume is a dream of Asia. Using ingredients from Indochina in 1920, René Duval and Germaine Madeline created a captivating fragrance. The woody notes take us to the heart of the myths of the colonial empire, Saigon, the Mekong, the rubber plantations, Cochinchina, the golds of the palaces of Siam are revealed in an accord of exotic scents like an imaginary and sensory journey.

This magnificent perfume of ambers, resins and woods is sublimated by the very original association of ginger and bergamot. Soft and delicate, warm and tasty, its power of seduction is amplified thanks to the sensuality of saffron. When you wear Ambre de Siam, you feel a sense of serenity because its aura is comforting.


Last week, I didn’t quote a lot of the Vivamor promotional text because it was mostly a few semi-random adjectives and verbs stringing together the notes in the pyramid. Somewhat useful if one hasn’t the note pyramid at hand, otherwise lame, though at least not the puffier puffery common to perfume marketing.

Volnay’s little essay on Ambre de Siam likewise doesn’t drip with purple prose, but it indulges in the sort of colonialist orientalism that should be consigned to the era of the original 1919 issue, not revived along with the perfume in 2015. I’m not sure why Volnay has chosen to romanticize rubber plantations, or to emphasize Indochina (including Cochinchina and Saigon). Would you advertise Ambre de France with references to Florence?

That pet peeve aside, Ambre de Siam is a nice enough amber, which as usual I note is not my favorite genre. Dr. T. says she likes it, and that it reminds her of Samsara or perhaps Samsara Shine. For my part, I could have used more of the ancillary notes—the “envolée” of ginger, bergamot, and green tea, or the “caractère” of incense, cedar, and sandalwood—rather than the white musk, benzoin, Cashmeran, and “Amber Wood.”

I should also note the historical “base 4092,” the creation of Volnay’s founding perfumer Rene Duval, which Volnay now describes as powder, dew, vanilla, and clove. Alas, I’m only getting vanilla, possibly not from 4092.

Bottom line: I found Ambre de Siam pleasant but unremarkable. Although the aromachems aren’t amped up to the levels of the more egregious designer fare, I don’t detect either the creative ambition or reverence for the past suggested in the marketing hype.

Time to wash it off and see if my wife’s Samsara really smells similar.*

*No. Or at least, not to me. Dr. T. explained that there was a single note she rarely smells that she detects as common between the two; whereas, for me, the totality is so different that a common single note isn’t relevant.
 
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Schubertian

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 8, 2021
^ PStoller, you are indefatigable! Lucky for the rest of us.

(I have suspicions about most of these trendy revivals of old perfume houses... mainly because they can't possibly actually revive old scent profiles with the restrictions or outright bans on key ingredients that we have today, and the "reinterpretations", as you say, are also carefully tuned to modern tastes to make sure they actually sell. They seem to me more like yet another way to make up a fluffy brand story than any serious attempt to recreate an old masterpiece. But maybe that's just me being very, very cynical and grumpy today.)
 

Akahina

Basenotes Dependent
Jun 9, 2011
I just splashed on some Rania J. Ambre Loup for the first time. This is a bit different somehow. Drier, spicier and a vanilla that is maybe restrained by spice and woods? I'm not really a fan of vanilla...

I discovered this brand last week at Fumerie. I was impressed with every one on paper, even the ones not my style were impressive.

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PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
I have suspicions about most of these trendy revivals of old perfume houses... mainly because they can't possibly actually revive old scent profiles with the restrictions or outright bans on key ingredients that we have today, and the "reinterpretations", as you say, are also carefully tuned to modern tastes to make sure they actually sell. They seem to me more like yet another way to make up a fluffy brand story than any serious attempt to recreate an old masterpiece. But maybe that's just me being very, very cynical and grumpy today.

I tend to agree with you. I was impressed by what Barry Gibson achieved in reviving Crown Perfumery in the 1990s, but times were different and he was in a unique position with his access to old formulae. (I keep trying to acquire samples from Gibson’s new house, Art of the Perfumer, but after several unanswered emails, I suspect the business is DOA.)

Volnay may have grandpa’s old recipes, but it’s a safe bet those didn’t use ambroxan and cashmeran. While I’m all for the heirs capitalizing on their inheritance, I would hope that respect for it would be embodied in the actual fragrances, not just the marketing and packaging. We’ll see how the other samples go. The reborn Maison Violet has a couple of winners; hope remains alive for Volnay.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Volnay - Brume d’Hiver (Winter Mist)

Heir to "Rose Brumaire" created by René Duval in 1922, this transparent and luminous rose is associated with bois de oud and vetiver, whose original accord combines femininity and masculinity. It is a spicy-woody that draws you into a freshness with teak scents associated with the exotic and sensual note of cypriol (papyrus).

The fresh timidity of the first notes rises in power and curls up in the reassuring and warm trail of warm, slightly spicy wood, as winter encourages us to curl up by the fireside.


I’m not quite sure what the promo prose is trying to say, but let’s be nice and chalk it up to Google Translate. While I didn’t click every note wafting by, Brume d’Hiver does feature a cool, translucent rose, abetted but not overshadowed by judicious use of contemporary aromachems. Otherwise, it feels much more in the respectful spirit of perfumery past than did Amber de Siam. Yet, it doesn’t smell antiquated.

I’m not sure Brume d’Hiver separates itself sufficiently from the plethora of other roses out there to clinch a “must try,” but it’s well worth sampling if you want something in the family that bridges generations. There’s hope for this house yet.
 
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Tea_Lilly

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 4, 2022
Nine hours later after application and the synthetic sweetness is still hanging around. It's still the exact same smell but what was inoffensive if not particularly pleasant nine hours ago is heavily overstaying its welcome.

Starting to debate if I have to take back what I said about this not being a scrubber, because I am getting sorely tempted...

Update: Scrubbed and finding myself wishing I did that sooner!
Thanks so much for the info - I almost bought a sample of that today - now glad I didn't.
 

Tea_Lilly

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 4, 2022
Chanel no. 18. I liked it when I smelled the porcelain jar in the shop - so I got a sample and so glad I did.

At first all I could smell is cumin, then some pencil shavings - then the florals on top. Close up, the cumin/shavings eclipsed the other notes, but the scent was more pleasant from further away, as I could detect the florals.

I'm really glad that I tried this first and did not blind buy.
 

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