What did you try today? (2022)

[Tea_Lilly]

Lalique Encre Noir a'la Extreme. Earthy vetiver, cypress (with a whiff of menthol), incense. A bit in, I am getting some menthol and orris. This is a fabulous bargain buy, with the caveats 1) This is an earthy, assertive vetiver NOT polite like Guerlain Vetiver and 2) I would recommend those who generally prefer feminine scents to try before they buy. I'm glad I got this - it is nice and I got it for under $40 for a brand new sealed bottle. Thanks to my basenotes friends for the recommendations

 

[scentless_nameless]

Lalique Encre Noir a'la Extreme. Earthy vetiver, cypress (with a whiff of menthol), incense. A bit in, I am getting some menthol and orris. This is a fabulous bargain buy, with the caveats 1) This is an earthy, assertive vetiver NOT polite like Guerlain Vetiver and 2) I would recommend those who generally prefer feminine scents to try before they buy. I'm glad I got this - it is nice and I got it for under $40 for a brand new sealed bottle. Thanks to my basenotes friends for the recommendations

Congrats, that's a steal

 

[PStoller]

Bernard Lalande - Tubéreuse

A kinder, gentler Fracas, which is an improvement in my book, as I'm not a huge tuberose fan. Some mild indoles and a bit of stemminess counter the sweetness, which is more dimensional and not so overbearing as in many other tuberose-centric scents.

Still not my cuppa, but recommended for tuberose enthusiasts—if they can find it.

 

[cheapimitation]

Yeah, it's somehow minty-aromatic.


Very interesting!


LMR probably means LMR Naturals from IFF.

I know very well the ropes odor - fatty-waxy, salty, woody, hemp, with a warm muskiness.
The early stages of osmanthus are pronounced fatty-waxy.
So, you have candles (fatty-waxy from osmanthus), the Vast Ocean (salty ambergris), cedarwood/patchouli for wood and something close to hemp. Add some musk, and voila - ropes.
I think the vetiver perfectly fits here, too.

I don't like those fatty-waxy early stages of osmanthus at all. They are difficult to mix with something, so that the resulting accord is pleasant, or at least well tolerated by me. But here that might work really well, because I like the way the ropes smell.
Pretty ingenious! So, I have to test it.

Is it smooth and breezy?
Btw, white musk?

View attachment 312459​

I definitely want to revisit White Whale, I tried a lot of fragrances that day and it was one of 4 I put on skin so I don't remember much more detail about it. Your description of the rope accord really makes me want to go back and see if I can detect it. I just remember thinking it was a different take on aquatic/oceanic smell that didn't go in a blue or calone direction. It is a little bit musky but my hunch is it comes more from ISO E, at least that's mostly what I detected on the strip the day after, something slightly woody and familiar. I would say the overall impression was fresh and fruity but with no sweetness and some underlying oceanic funk.

I'll report back when I try it again!

 

[ILikePeeps]

Just got back from a trip in France and Italy, over there I tried some stuff I hadn't tried either at all, or in a while, or in different formulation than I 'knew'.

These are just ones from on skin, not all that I smelled.

Jicky EdP (latest 75ml bottle style)
Habit Rouge L’Instinct
YSL Pour Homme
Xerjoff Alexandria III
Floraiku One Umbrella for Two
Profumum Roma Audace
Dior Patchouli Imperial
Goutal Eau de Monsieur & Eau d’Hadrien EdP
Chanel Eau de Cologne & Bois des Iles (may have tried or smelled one or both not too long ago actually..)
Eau de Rochas Femme
Celine Rembaud & Black Tie
Dior Vetiver
Penhaligons Much Ado About The Duke
Roja Sweetie Aoud & Oceania
Strangelove Dead of Night EdP
Xerjoff 400
Hermes Myrrhe Eglantine, Bel Ami, and Un Jardin Sur La Lagune
Chanel Allure Homme Cologne Sport

Oops, forgot to add The Hedonist (Ex Nihilo) at least?

 

[sakecat]

Tried out Amouroud Licorice Woods yesterday from the big bag o' samples I recently received.
The first 30 minutes nails the scent of the licorice twigs you can get from the health food co-op - (NOT the black vines / Twizzlers variety - there's no sweetness)
As Licorice Woods dries down, it turns into a close-wearing vanilla-laced, sandalwood-like scent. That phase lasted until I showered - about 6 hours.
I will likely use up this sample by layering it under my current bottle of Lolita Lempicka.

 

[Emanuel76]

I definitely want to revisit White Whale, I tried a lot of fragrances that day and it was one of 4 I put on skin so I don't remember much more detail about it. Your description of the rope accord really makes me want to go back and see if I can detect it. I just remember thinking it was a different take on aquatic/oceanic smell that didn't go in a blue or calone direction. It is a little bit musky but my hunch is it comes more from ISO E, at least that's mostly what I detected on the strip the day after, something slightly woody and familiar. I would say the overall impression was fresh and fruity but with no sweetness and some underlying oceanic funk.

I'll report back when I try it again!

I just found a sample.

The ambergris accord also contains the real ambergris.
White Whale also contains artemisia, even though it is not mentioned in the olfactory pyramid.

The bla-bla looks interesting. I hope it matches the juice.

The starting point, and the Centerpiece of the fragrance is Amber Gris
I had worked on an ambergris accord, using some natural ambergris as a target reference while working in the Paris IFF office. I pulled the accord out from my library and was ready/eager to use it in abundance!

The Pequod Ship
During our brainstorming, we clearly envisioned rustic and rough woods. Contrary to smooth and polished, this ship was made to take on hardship. The harshest conditions that weather and the ocean can offer. We used Cedarwood Virginia, Cistus Labdanum, Patchouli LMR, Vetiver LMR, Cypress LMR and Oakmoss.

The Vast Dark Ocean and Salty Sea Ropes
We were careful dosing in the salty seawater nuances. Here’s where we probably went through the largest number of reworks and modifications, in order to reach the right balance with the other elements. Black Pepper LMR to give a cold, fresh airy feeling, combined and amalgamated so well with the salty water notes.

A Candlelight of Contrast
Up until here, the fragrance was telling a story of dark and rugged life at sea. We decided to bring some light and warmth into the picture, countering with softness using Osmanthus LMR and Violet Flower.

The Pages of an Old Book
We wanted to bring that nostalgic and familiar smell using Orris Concrete LMR and Olibanum LMR.

We finalized the pursuit of the mythical white whale with a touch of boozy absinthe for the fellow crewmen before meeting their fate. We used Armoise Heart LMR, which contains a higher concentration of thujone than most armoise extracts.

​

today i'm trying L'Oblio by Meo Fusciuni, an italian niche house from the nose Giuseppe Imprezzabile

And?
I have been waiting for your opinion for 8 months.

 

[hednic]

Abed the last from the house of Anomalia which caps off a series of delights!

 

[Schubertian]

Miyako, thanks to a nice decant swap with a BNer. It's softer than I expected. Lovely. But not €200/15ml lovely. Glad I have the decant.

 

[PStoller]

Bernard Lalande - Ambré

I wasn't knocked out when this started, because amber—like muguet and tuberose—is relatively low on my preferred notes list. I have to give it to Lalande, though: the amber isn't of the gooey caramel kind, the sandalwood undertones are naturalistic if not actually natural, and the base fills out beautifully in that classic vintage fashion. I've smelled niche ambers that are as good, and a few notably better. On the other hand, more of them were less impressive and cost more.

Or at least, more per ml than I paid for my mini, which as far as I know is the only way it comes. I confess, I bought another Lalande set, this time in the box with a couple that weren't included in my first batch.

 

[Uniquefrags]

Brumes de Khao Sok by Ella K Parfums
This is utterly delightful! It was instantly a skin scent though, which is devastating. It plays hide and seek with me, it's that soft. I wish it was a touch stronger, just so I can get to enjoy it a bit more. Perhaps if applied more generously, rather than a single test spray to the arm... I'll have to revisit the shop at a later date and sample again to see.

Also tried Ghibli by Ella K and it's the exact opposite. This was so strong I felt I'd been punched in the face, lol. A very realistic old leather scent, that someone with more character than me would easily pull off.

And got to smell L'occataine Figuer & Rose the other day. Another surprise because I don't like any of their fragrances, but this one is beautiful. More a soft rose than fig to my nose, with something like a light mint in the background.
Great performance as well, it lasted on my skin for over 6 hours (just from the one test spray in the shop).

 

[Brooks Otterlake]

Al Haramain Oudh 36

Despite the name, this has nothing to do with oud. It's a labdanum-heavy, silky amber that gets smokier and woodier as it develops, but always retains a sheer, satiny texture.

Straightforward, but given the price, the value proposition is clear. It's probably my favorite scent that I've tried from Al Haramain.

 

[hednic]

Combava-Cedrat by Affiniessence which exceeded my expectations.

 

[cazaubon]

Scents of Wood Vanilla in Bourbon turned out to be a lovely boozy vanilla reminiscent of the original release of SDV.

 

[Emanuel76]

Masque Milano - White Whale
I had worked on an ambergris accord, using some natural ambergris as a target reference while working in the Paris IFF office. I pulled the accord out from my library and was ready/eager to use it in abundance!

OMFG! He used natural ambergris only as a reference.
At $150/30ml I would have expected he use at least a tiny bit of natural ambergis.
I don't think he'll be able to mimic the radiance of ambergris.

Al Haramain Oudh 36

Despite the name, this has nothing to do with oud. It's a labdanum-heavy, silky amber that gets smokier and woodier as it develops, but always retains a sheer, satiny texture.

Straightforward, but given the price, the value proposition is clear. It's probably my favorite scent that I've tried from Al Haramain.

I remember it had a crystallized honey texture and it had something dirty, mildly sharp, similar to stout saliva (probably the cedarwood combined with something else).
I liked it, but not that much, so I sold the bottle.
I still have its brother - Oudh 36 Nuit. I haven't worn it in a couple of years. Something similar to Dior - Oud Ispahan, only darker. Nuclear.
I'm glad I remembered it, I'll give it as a gift for Christmas. The bottle's almost full. I still have the box - imposing, not from thin cardboard. Magnetic cap. Nice.

I laugh when I remember how a friend told me, whispering, not to get upset, that maybe from nearby smells good, but from there it is so wrong. I was surprised how worried he was.

​

 

[ErroneousFact]

Caesars Man (Vintage made in USA, age unknown): The spray "blast" is exactly what I remember from decades ago. Much like current Drakkar Noir but much less shaving cream and more natural smelling. Perhaps a touch of Armaf Sillage (SMW clone) too. I definitely can and will pull this off; it's as inoffensive as things like Y EDT but planty instead of fruity. I don't get the impression the nice opening lasts very long, which could be anosmia, age, or formula.

 

[kosui no kaori]

Last night, I sampled Shalimar Millesime Vanilla Planifolia by Guerlain. This limited edition beauty was graciously sent to me by @N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer.

If the original Shalimar were a luxurious, deep blue, velvet blanket - Millesime is a soft, comforting, white duvet.

With the dark velvet, you wear it draped across one shoulder, as you lounge in front of a fireplace - it’s smokier, more animalic, a bit more complicated.

The duvet? The duvet is something that you completely wrap around yourself, warm and soft, in a dimly lit bedroom during a snowstorm. It’s less dramatic - more demure.

There’s a bit of bright bergamot, and perhaps the suggestion of musk, but the real star of the show is vanilla. Beautiful, comforting, and sparkling, with a slightly boozy warmth. A bit of powder and a hint of floral is sensed in the background, but not enough to overpower the cozy vanilla. There is the faintest presence of Shalimar’s leather and spice in the distance.

This is a beautiful, comforting evening scent, and the perfect accompaniment for rainy, grey days.

I will absolutely be seeking a full bottle.

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

Scents of Wood Vanilla in Bourbon turned out to be a lovely boozy vanilla reminiscent of the original release of SDV.

The original release SDV is my favorite by far, I have a bottle from 2007. How closely similar are they?

 

[Schubertian]

I tried a little Fumoir des Anges by Annette Neuffer. I got quite strong tobacco surrounded by the kind of spicy amber that's pretty characteristic of many of her scents. I did not smell the orris that's supposed to be there. There are other AN scents I like much better. And when I saw a bottle costs €400 I admit I did a bit of an eye-roll.

 

[PStoller]

Bernard Lalande - Jasmine

I feel like a broken record. Do I like jasmine? Sometimes yes, sometimes no, usually not as the focus. Do I like this jasmine soliflore? Yes—yes, I do. It does sit close to the skin, but get up on it and it’s lovely. The longer you wear it, the better it gets. The main ding (apart from availability) is sillage.

This Lalande dude was no slouch.

 

[hednic]

Gingembre-Latte by Affinessence which was wonderful!

 

[ILikePeeps]

Tried a bunch of stuff probably since last posting here, but for today..

La Closerie des Parfums
Ambre Oud Cannelle: basically smells like Ambre Narguile with like.. a bit of leather?
Tabac Oud Cardamom: Interlude Man, but not as good.

Pass on the brand, so far. But they do smell good! I'm just not a fan of clones type stuff like this, really.

 

[cazaubon]

I’m really enjoying the SoW Vanilla in Bourbon, it’s not identical to SDV but the booziness, which I loved in the original release, has gradually been diminished with reformulations.

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

I’m really enjoying the SoW Vanilla in Bourbon, it’s not identical to SDV but the booziness, which I loved in the original release, has gradually been diminished with reformulations.

I noticed that with SDV as well. It became slightly more floral like with their 2012 release.

How about the vanilla in SoW Vanilla? Is it quite potent just like 2007 SDV?

 

[PStoller]

Bernard Lalande - Parfum Boisé

Opens with a bit of that apricot-like scent of immortelle, which soon gives way to what smells to me like sandalwood, labdanum, and ambergris. What's not to like? Well, as with Lalande's Jasmine, Boisé isn't big on sillage/projection. This is likely due to the parfum concentration. So long as you're happy to scent yourself instead of the room, this is another winner.

I suppose one could add a smidge of alcohol to approximate an EdP or EdT, but I wouldn't waste any of this that way.

 

[cazaubon]

I’d be happy to send you my sample N.Cal, just PM me.

 

[Darjeeling]

Guerlain Homme EdP.

Smells close enough to how I remember the EdT that I don't regret blind buying it.

 

[hednic]

Bergamote-Racines by Affinessence which was simply delightful.

 

[ChypreInBloom]

I'm on my Naomi Goodsir fragrances exploration, and today I'm testing
Nuit de bakélite and
Or du Sérail.
Both are very interesting, Nuit de Bakélite as a very green, vegetal tuberose with a hint of plastic or latex in it (they say latex in the blurb), easily detectable, which adds to the overall greenness. I love tuberose but I am not used to such, how can I put it? - such milky, just-out-of-the-bud, gummy scent. I think it needs going back to. I will definitely try it again.
Or du Sérail is a luxurious fruity, honey tobacco, a splendid amber fragrance, fine and elegant yet opulent.
After testing four out of their range of six perfumes, the quality is undeniably high and, my oh my, how tempting they are! And they're very strong room-fillers.
I'm really glad I've finally ordered the sample set.
I like the bottles, too - they're simple but elegant.

 

[Emanuel76]

Mendittorosa - Osang

​

Caramelic sweetness, a bit soapy, a bit clean laundry heady aldehydic, a bit musty/earthy, a bit rusty-bloody-metallic, a bit salty, a bit buttery roasted corn/popcorn something, a bit nutty, a bit musky, and even a tiny bit sulphurous. JFC!
First time the fenugreek is predominant, after 10-15 minutes the Sichuan pepper becomes very vocal.
The caramelic sweetness is strong for 3-5 minutes, after which it calms down. After 15-20 minutes it remains in the background, further and further away.
Sticky texture, after a while mild fluffy, but still a bit sticky.

Later edit
Deep dry down - cola-candy ambery-myrrh, a bit woody, salty and fluffy-musky.

I really liked the description. I love the bottle with that papal mitre shaped cap that perfectly fits the theme. But no, it doesn't work at all for me. I was hoping for something totally different. It's not amber, it's not incense, it's not really churchy.
Maybe church service in a salt cave.
Hard pass.

I'll keep looking for the perfect churchy perfume.

​

 

[Schubertian]

Contre Bombarde. Wow, it really smells like an old church to me! Incense in an old stone, wood church, a little dank and dark. For a while. On drydown a sweetness comes through and it's no longer so churchy. .... Ah, now I see! There's apparently a caramel note in the base... that makes sense. I have to say the drydown smells delicious to my nose, I can't stop huffing my arm. Not too sweet. I'd love to smell this on a man, and why not on myself sometimes.

On my other arm, Io Non Ho Mani Che Mi Accarezzino il Volto (I had to check I spelled that righ!) I don't think I've ever smelled anything quite like this. It's very complex. Less obviously incensy, more ambery. It, too, gets sweeter as it dries down and I get a hint of floral and cinnamon (ylang is listed). I have to wear this fully, but I like it more than Quando Rapita in Estasi, against my expectations.

 

[PStoller]

Bernard Lalande - Chypre

Dr. T. got a quick whiff on her way out to work, and asked, “Is that a Guerlain? It’s a little like Mitsouko.” And it still needs time to develop.

 

[d r e]

Lavanila Vanilla Grapefruit:
Pretty straightforward Grapefruit & Vanilla. Pretty subtle and without much bite. Smells good, mild performance

LMG Bonbon Banane:
I was expecting a Banana Runts Candy type of smell but this is like Green Banana Peels & Sandalwood, almost like a male cologne. Occasionally get hints of a Banana Coconut Cream Pie aspect, but it's very subtle and mostly woodsy. This is pretty nice the more I smell it. Decent performance

LMG Latte D'Or:
Smells like a mixture of Ginger & Tumeric, some Coconut Milk in the background. Pretty airy for how milky it is. Mild performance, unisex

LMG Limoncello Sorbet:
Super bright & minty Lime smell, just sweet enough so it's not sour. Much better nose feel than most Citruses but I'm not big on them being so prominent. I don't get much of the Whipped Cream note that they feature so well in Ambre Etoile, which was the major thing I was looking for here. Good performance

 

[RedRaider430]

Tom Ford Lost Cherry: Did not care for.

 

[firstascent]

Tom Ford Lost Cherry: Did not care for.

I have a sample of this one, I don’t care for it too much by itself, but it layers great with various other TF fragrances.

 

[hednic]

Idle Hour by Ex Nihilo which was an excellent acquisition.

 

[PStoller]

It’s a vintage mini sample week.



Corday - Fame

A new and uniquely original parfum…a soaring, triumphant scent, expressly created for the select few who cherish a truly rare creation in parfum. – 1948 ad

Anything can happen when you wear Fame. – 1960s ads

I’ve read lots of nice things about this one, but to my nose it’s an undistinguished honeyed floral. Yeah, there’s some civet in there. Eh: I already have enough in my Monsieur Lanvin to reconstitute an entire civet cat.

 

[cazaubon]

Rosendeu Mateu No. 5. It’s labeled as a sensual floral amber. To me it smells pretty generic and mass-market. Pleasant enough, very safe, not something I would reach for.

 

[Schubertian]

Rosendeu Mateu No. 5. It’s labeled as a sensual floral amber. To me it smells pretty generic and mass-market. Pleasant enough, very safe, not something I would reach for.

Did you get that rubber note in it? I thought there was something there reminiscent of something like.... balloons, maybe. Reading the reviews, people seem to think it smells like condoms.

 

[hednic]

Oud En Chene was the first of many from this house that I tried and loved.