What did you do in Perfumery today?

Agonhoun

Well-known member
Feb 20, 2021
I picked up a box with my samples and opened a sample with my test of Fougerie that i did 3 months ago. The formula of which I mercilessly threw away a month ago (tore out a sheet from a notebook, because a week after mixing the result I did not like). But now , after 3 months, a cloud of delicious old-school perfume came over me. I bite my elbows (((
Therefore, yesterday I again worked with Saxon moss, aldehydes and other beautiful things. I have a prepared tincture of a real Dryópteris , Dryópteris was used at the beginning of the last century to create a fougere aroma. I got it from the Far East. Rusult made me glad yestarday.
Also, i solved problem with lids for bottle . I was looking for more than a year and nothing came up. I had to do it myself))
IMG_5720.jpg
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
Very beautiful lid!!! Today I ruthlessly struck a number of materials from a complicated formula that had been gradually accreting over iterations. We'll see how it goes!
 

Agonhoun

Well-known member
Feb 20, 2021
Very beautiful lid!!! Today I ruthlessly struck a number of materials from a complicated formula that had been gradually accreting over iterations. We'll see how it goes!

thanks, dear ) wish you luck with your formula :thumbsup:
yesterday i reformulated the Patchouli formula using advice on mixing ionones in a nearby thread. Suddenly I got Patchouli 24 like le labo :laugh:
 

jameshillier

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jul 15, 2020
Today I received a quote for shipping from Perfumer's Apprentice at $560USD. Such is the cost of hobbyist perfumery in Australia I suppose :cry:

The price seems to check out. I used the FedEx quote tool and estimated a box size from their location to mine and the online quote wasn't far off - and with the amount of stuff I ordered, it will probably be in two boxes anyway.

Somehow PSH can offer a $40USD flat rate which is very generous given Pell Wall charges 70GBP.

I will be receiving a huge array of new "toys" anyway so I'll just focus on that!!
 

Agonhoun

Well-known member
Feb 20, 2021
I ordered a cannabis EO from eden botanicals and it didn’t smell like what I was hoping. So today I ordered vetikol acetate I believe it was along with many terpenes found in cannabis and am hoping to create a cannabis accord in the near future. Also ordered some sampaquita to try out. tried to figure out how to actually use a demo formula properly. Another beginner pointed some things out and cleared a lot up for me along with some other people in this thread who shared great advice for a beginner DIY perfumer such as myself. Am still traveling by boat from Alaska to Seattle so can’t wait to get home to my organ and have some fun!

also try rhubofix, it smell weed very real))
 

Citroasis

Well-known member
Jul 24, 2021
Captains Log Entry #2455-76

Package 1 of 2 arrived yesterday from PSH's Summer sale. Some were replenishment items, and some were new things for me to try out:

Cocoa Absolute (Robertet) - My god where has this been all my life!? Its not as sweet/creamy as say Chocovan, but it has this slight dry/bitter dark chocolate vibe that is fantastic! Sticky, gooey substance that needs to be heated in order to dilute it to something useable. But this is something that needs to be smelled! Its slightly nutty and decedent.
Pink Pepper C02 (Robertet) - A slightly airy/lighter/cleaner and more refined version of regular pink pepper EO. Almost like its more "crisp/snap". The regular EO has a bit more body/roundness, but the C02 does have more bite and crispness.
Ambrinol 95 (IFF) - Now this is a material I've been missing out on. Dilute it well (1%), for its pretty strong. This reminds me of a Base Accord that Susan used to make at Creating Perfume called 'Ambergris Accord'. You can for sure detect she used some of this in her base, and it was a lovely base to study with. This single material just feels like "Ocean" to me, even more so than Seaweed Absolute. When I Smell this, for some reason I instantly think of the inside of sea shells. I don't know why. I think this material in conjunction with Seaweed Abs, Adoxal and Ambrox would make a lovely Oceanic vibe in a frag.
 

HisHighness

Well-known member
Dec 14, 2020
Hi all!

Today I created a “rose oud” perfume or attempted to create rather. Lots of rose aroma chemicals, lots of cedar, cypriol, safraleine. Smells good so far!

:cheesy:
 

apolo085

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2019
I picked up a box with my samples and opened a sample with my test of Fougerie that i did 3 months ago. The formula of which I mercilessly threw away a month ago (tore out a sheet from a notebook, because a week after mixing the result I did not like). But now , after 3 months, a cloud of delicious old-school perfume came over me. I bite my elbows (((
Therefore, yesterday I again worked with Saxon moss, aldehydes and other beautiful things. I have a prepared tincture of a real Dryópteris , Dryópteris was used at the beginning of the last century to create a fougere aroma. I got it from the Far East. Rusult made me glad yestarday.
Also, i solved problem with lids for bottle . I was looking for more than a year and nothing came up. I had to do it myself))
View attachment 161076

Wow, very beautiful!!
I've accidentally lost a formula I did write on iPhone note app, I remember my fingers hurt... :)
 

HisHighness

Well-known member
Dec 14, 2020
Ooph... I wish you a swift recovery!

As for myself, I've just blended 86th version of Baccarat Rouge 540 EDP accord. Like previous 10 trials this one smells good enough right after blending, but a bit closer to my goal. After 3 days trial versions usually changed and lost balance, unfortunately. Now I'll wait for the Jasmine Grandiflorum (synth and nat) and Fir Balsam abs and other acs to arrive.

Apparently there’s a certain floral aldehyde in Baccarat Rouge the clone I made smells almost identical
 

Noobsinth

Active member
Apr 11, 2020
Apparently there’s a certain floral aldehyde in Baccarat Rouge the clone I made smells almost identical
You mean other than safranal? Hmm... I tried some floral aldehydes with no particular success. However, I agree that BR540 has a floral top and heart note along with a citrusy-herbal-spicy upper note that is fleeting. I also add some tiny florals to the top and heart besides other things. I am satisfied with my secondary accord for now. Soon I'm gonna start blending the main and the secondary accords. Thx for the input!
 

Agonhoun

Well-known member
Feb 20, 2021
I got today best deer musc natural, very good clean oakmoss resinoid and other beautiful things. I still study vintage-style fragrance and this give me a lot inspiration . Today i made near version vintage Climat Lancome and very happy. It sounds so so nice. Tomorrow i’ll plan create some bases De Laire and Appell. Apso, today in old noties of farmacy”s book 1982 i saw simple Muguet accord

Jasmine extract - 200 g
Ylang extract - 100 g
Alcohol 95% - 200 g
Cardamom in powder - 5 g

Never thought that all this can smell like muguet )))
 

HisHighness

Well-known member
Dec 14, 2020
You mean other than safranal? Hmm... I tried some floral aldehydes with no particular success. However, I agree that BR540 has a floral top and heart note along with a citrusy-herbal-spicy upper note that is fleeting. I also add some tiny florals to the top and heart besides other things. I am satisfied with my secondary accord for now. Soon I'm gonna start blending the main and the secondary accords. Thx for the input!

Yes, it’s a soft floral aldehyde and not mna, c11 etc good luck with your creation!
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
Working on a four-part rose accord today with citronellol, geraniol, PEA, damascenone & my wife just said spontaneously "it smells like crushed fresh rose petals in here". So Yay!!!
 

pavomi

Well-known member
Sep 3, 2016
finally starting to compound a reformulation of an older formula. it has 14% patchoulol, and doesn't smell like patchouli at all. the patchoulol is in lovely company, and you can smell the perfume three blocks away. lol
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
finally starting to compound a reformulation of an older formula. it has 14% patchoulol, and doesn't smell like patchouli at all. the patchoulol is in lovely company, and you can smell the perfume three blocks away. lol

That's a huge amount of patchoulol! What else is in there?
 

pavomi

Well-known member
Sep 3, 2016
That's a huge amount of patchoulol! What else is in there?

its basically an amber perfume, and the huge amount of patchoulol is possible because of the fixative properties of benzoin and labdanum. i'm using a lovely benzoin EO from white lotus aromatics, Labdanum resin, and a dark smokey and very dry vanilla accord that plays from very top to base note.
the whole natural scructure is surrounded and rendered with synthetic materials, backboned with a silage heavy musk accord, and topped with Sichuan pepper CO2.
 

greeneaj87

Well-known member
May 25, 2020
After 1.5 years, I finished a formula I'm happy with. It's all aromachemicals, which is a first for me. Link to formula

I bought a bunch of berry materials in the hopes to create a raspberry fragrance/base. Nope. It went Green Apple for some reason and I just rolled with it. It started with a super tippy top accord that reminded me of a juicy, ripe green apple. Basically a play between Pinene, ethyl 2-methyl butyrate and liffarome. From there, I just extended that theme through to the basenotes and wound up with a very linear, quite strong but somehow not cloying Green Apple fragrance. Oh and it uses a crapton of dynascone and spirogalbanone.

I have no idea what it is - a long lasting base, or just a soli-fruit fragrance?

Anyways, I need to pepper in some naturals (galbanum, spruce EO, nutmeg, blackcurrant EO, maybe violet leaf ABS or something?) but I'm content with this "aromachemical skeleton". The formula is obviously subject to change but I'm happy with it for now.

Thanks to everyone on BN who freely gave their knowledge on materials, formulating, balancing, etc. I wouldn't have reached this milestone without you guys.
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
After 1.5 years, I finished a formula I'm happy with. It's all aromachemicals, which is a first for me. Link to formula

I bought a bunch of berry materials in the hopes to create a raspberry fragrance/base. Nope. It went Green Apple for some reason and I just rolled with it. It started with a super tippy top accord that reminded me of a juicy, ripe green apple. Basically a play between Pinene, ethyl 2-methyl butyrate and liffarome. From there, I just extended that theme through to the basenotes and wound up with a very linear, quite strong but somehow not cloying Green Apple fragrance. Oh and it uses a crapton of dynascone and spirogalbanone.

I have no idea what it is - a long lasting base, or just a soli-fruit fragrance?

Anyways, I need to pepper in some naturals (galbanum, spruce EO, nutmeg, blackcurrant EO, maybe violet leaf ABS or something?) but I'm content with this "aromachemical skeleton". The formula is obviously subject to change but I'm happy with it for now.

Thanks to everyone on BN who freely gave their knowledge on materials, formulating, balancing, etc. I wouldn't have reached this milestone without you guys.

Very interesting formula! I'm particularly intrigued by the combo of lyral, peonile, corps racine, which will participate together in the extreme long drydown. One thing that could be a great grace note on that is a touch of calone to add a bit of sparkle. I know it goes great w lyral, worth trying with the peonile & corps racine too.
 

greeneaj87

Well-known member
May 25, 2020
Very interesting formula! I'm particularly intrigued by the combo of lyral, peonile, corps racine, which will participate together in the extreme long drydown. One thing that could be a great grace note on that is a touch of calone to add a bit of sparkle. I know it goes great w lyral, worth trying with the peonile & corps racine too.

A touch of calone is a great idea! I totally forgot about it. I only have a little 15ml bottle of 1% calone in ETOH, but I will add some to the base accord and see what happens. Speaking of sparkle, I completely forgot to add in a tiny bit of lovely aldehydes, too.

Peonile is strange, I can relate to the observations you made in the recent thread about it. It's either invisible or pronounced, and I couldn't find the exact threshhold. Fortunately it seems to work with this green apple/pineapple theme, it adds "sharpness" that seems to synergize with the corps racine and spirogalbanone well.

Thanks for the suggestion!
 

bsouthers

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2017
Today I worked on completing a sweet, resinous, woody fragrance for my line. It’s unnamed so I created a US-based contest where I’m sending out samples so folks can try it and offer a proper name. Winner gets a free 30ml bottle when it’s released in late fall/early winter. I’ve got a few spots left so if anyone is interested in trying it please let me know!
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
Today I worked on completing a sweet, resinous, woody fragrance for my line. It’s unnamed so I created a US-based contest where I’m sending out samples so folks can try it and offer a proper name. Winner gets a free 30ml bottle when it’s released in late fall/early winter. I’ve got a few spots left so if anyone is interested in trying it please let me know!

I'd be happy to try it & brainstorm names! Email me at my Basenotes user name @gmail & I'll send you my US address.
 

Citroasis

Well-known member
Jul 24, 2021
Captains Log Entry # 12987-23

My 2nd Order from PSH Summer Sale arrived! I got to dilute and smell a few new materials.

Mandarin, Green (Bontoux): I wanted to get a new sample from a different place to compare. The first batch of Green Mandarin I got was from PA (Berje'), and that one had more of a darker/dirty orangish color, and smelled as if it leaned more to Mardarin red or Yellow, than a green. Its scent leaned a bit towards a traditional mandarin red and being a bit more juicy, with only a slight touch of floralcy behind it. This one from PSH (Bontoux) is more of a light yellow color with tints of greeness in it. It does have a sharper bite, more "peel" zest, and more floral shades of neroli to it.

Guava Base (Firmenich): This smells like a classic guava. It kinda reminds me of their Passion Fruit Base, but it for sure leans way more to the tart guava. Tropifruit Givco however, smells like a fruity cocktail drink/fruit punch in comparison thats like a weird mix of just a bunch of fruits mashed together to make a "Passion fruit juice" that you would drink. Guava Base goes for the straight forward guava scent, without mashing it up with other fruits. It almost has a Paradisimide vibe, but much more juicy and rounded.

Hydrocarboresine (Biolandes): Oh where to start with this one, its tricky for sure. You can smell its primarily a labdanum scent, but instead of taking the 'clean and refined route" that Ambrain does...this goes the opposite. Its the dirty side of labdanum. Diluted down to 1% and to me it smells of resins but dank and musty, with very very slight shades of olibanum ashes. The best way to describe this material would be "the dark cellar of a church cathedral".
 

polysom

Well-known member
Apr 4, 2021
I've started to test some materials on skin recently, because I've discovered they can smell so different compared to the smelling strip. Today I tested my Patchouli EO on skin (1%). On the smelling strip, I did not like it at all, on my skin, this thing is truly wonderful.
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
I've started to test some materials on skin recently, because I've discovered they can smell so different compared to the smelling strip. Today I tested my Patchouli EO on skin (1%). On the smelling strip, I did not like it at all, on my skin, this thing is truly wonderful.

My own experience has been that testing single materials, accords, and fragrances on smelling strips is of VERY limited utility. Molecules evaporate so much slower from the smelling strip than skin, and with what seem to be very non-linear differences between different materials, that how things smell on the strip versus on skin is very hard to predict. What I have found the strips to be most useful for is in comparing very closely related materials for differences in odor profile & tenacity. For example, results of my experiments testing numerous salicylates & musks in parallel on the smelling strips are of great value to me for picking salicylates & musks that will contribute most strongly at particular phases in the progression. For example, these experiments revealed that polvolide is one of the least tenacious macrocyclic musks I have & I reach for it when I want to smooth out & exalt top & mid notes, but not powerfully affect the base.
 

Lucofborg

Well-known member
Apr 27, 2018
Captains Log Entry # 12987-23

Hydrocarboresine (Biolandes): Oh where to start with this one, its tricky for sure. You can smell its primarily a labdanum scent, but instead of taking the 'clean and refined route" that Ambrain does...this goes the opposite. Its the dirty side of labdanum. Diluted down to 1% and to me it smells of resins but dank and musty, with very very slight shades of olibanum ashes. The best way to describe this material would be "the dark cellar of a church cathedral".

I loved this one so much right out of the bottle. Normally, I find that labdanum smells of olives. There's something in labdanum that I'm not a fan of but the carborésine was different I find. Sweet and fruity. But today I added it to Christophe Laudamiel's formula for Amber Absolute and only the smokiness and fishiness came out of the blend instead of the fruit and sweetness. :cry:
 

Claudio_Wu

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 14, 2019
Today, for the first time in my life I smelled vanilla absolute, funny huh? I also enjoyed the Fir Balsam from Hermitage - the wonderful material I so badly need to create the imaginary scent of Taiga.
 
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mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
Today I tried out the Firmenich No 209310 example formula from marketing materials illustrating use of their Oud Samrat base. Apropos to the discussion of smelling strips versus on skin, to me this formula smells A LOT better on the smelling strip than on skin.
 

pavomi

Well-known member
Sep 3, 2016
thx for that post. you inspired me to dilute Oud Maleki to test it the following days on skin. i always wanted to do so, but ever forgot...


Today I tried out the Firmenich No 209310 example formula from marketing materials illustrating use of their Oud Samrat base. Apropos to the discussion of smelling strips versus on skin, to me this formula smells A LOT better on the smelling strip than on skin.
 

polysom

Well-known member
Apr 4, 2021
I bought my first ever Iso E Super and Hedione from a german webpage. This trader does not give any information on its website about how it sources its ACs. There are also no data sheets there. I was therefore a little unsure whether what I have there could be one of the well-known Chinese clones. I therefore ordered Hedione and ISO E again from De Hekserij. The ISO E comes from IFF and the Hedione from Fir. It arrived today. I would not have thought that the difference is so big. The ISO E I had first, from the German webstore, smells like glue when pure and faintly woody when diluted. The one from De Hekserij smells like nothing at all when undiluted and very pleasantly velvety when diluted.
 

Bvlgari

New member
Mar 3, 2004
I bought my first ever Iso E Super and Hedione from a german webpage. This trader does not give any information on its website about how it sources its ACs. There are also no data sheets there. I was therefore a little unsure whether what I have there could be one of the well-known Chinese clones. I therefore ordered Hedione and ISO E again from De Hekserij. The ISO E comes from IFF and the Hedione from Fir. It arrived today. I would not have thought that the difference is so big. The ISO E I had first, from the German webstore, smells like glue when pure and faintly woody when diluted. The one from De Hekserij smells like nothing at all when undiluted and very pleasantly velvety when diluted.

It will be interesting to know the name of the German Webshop perhaps to avoid :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Bvlgari

New member
Mar 3, 2004
I’m recovering from COVID still (breakthrough - I was vaccinated fully beginning of August) and my sense of smell is only starting to recover so I though I would revisit some older formulae and make new iterations. I worked on a tuberose variation with tons of habanolid and hedione HC. One of the previous iterations made for an excellent liquid soap fragrance ;-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Contrapunctus

Well-known member
Mar 4, 2021
I bought my first ever Iso E Super and Hedione from a german webpage. This trader does not give any information on its website about how it sources its ACs. There are also no data sheets there. I was therefore a little unsure whether what I have there could be one of the well-known Chinese clones. I therefore ordered Hedione and ISO E again from De Hekserij. The ISO E comes from IFF and the Hedione from Fir. It arrived today. I would not have thought that the difference is so big. The ISO E I had first, from the German webstore, smells like glue when pure and faintly woody when diluted. The one from De Hekserij smells like nothing at all when undiluted and very pleasantly velvety when diluted.

I'm pretty sure that the dubious German webshop is parfumseminar . de, led by Uwe Manasse. Many of the aromachemicals (of unknown source/producer) are of the same price: € 8.50 / 20 ml - something that definitely should raise red flags!
 

apolo085

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2019
I've combined internet research and my perfumery experience to make KFC's spice blend.
The result was fantastic, I would say 95% identical to the KFC of the 90's, definitely fingers licking stuff!!
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
I'm pretty sure that the dubious German webshop is parfumseminar . de, led by Uwe Manasse. Many of the aromachemicals (of unknown source/producer) are of the same price: € 8.50 / 20 ml - something that definitely should raise red flags!

If this price is uniformly too low for the materials purported, then that definitely would be a red flag. But a uniform price for relatively modest quantities across many aromachemicals I don't think is a per se red flag. For example, PCW sells numerous common aromachemicals at €6.25 per 10g, and they are a long-standing very reputable supplier of synthetics & naturals (although they do have a business practice of not disclosing their suppliers). My assumption is that this uniform "floor price" reflects that the cost of container, packaging, labor for such small quantities is much more than the cost of the material itself.
 

polysom

Well-known member
Apr 4, 2021
I'm pretty sure that the dubious German webshop is parfumseminar . de, led by Uwe Manasse. Many of the aromachemicals (of unknown source/producer) are of the same price: € 8.50 / 20 ml - something that definitely should raise red flags!

Yes, it is. I didn't want to compromise a Webshop here, so I didn't told the name. The same price didn't concern me that much, what concerned me more was, that there is literally no information about the source/producer, no MSDS, no CAS number, no risk and safety statements, allergens or similar on the page, nor have the bottles with the ACs any hazard symbols. Its just marketing bla bla. There is even no concentration for the Liquidambar tincture (and I've got no response after writing and asking him). But when I started making perfume, I didn't know you had to pay attention to that kind of thing. Now, also thanks to this forum, I know that.
 
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RSG

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2016
I'm working on getting healthier and have a 3-month personal trainer. It makes me so tired my brain does not want to think about perfumery. I also can't seem to smell well after a workout. Or maybe because I am hungry. Every scent is nauseating. I am hoping that as I go along everything improves. Laugh at me because every muscle is so sore I move in slow motion. :p
 

polysom

Well-known member
Apr 4, 2021
Today I received some nice new materials, Grisalva, Tobacarol, Okoumal, Methyl Octalactone, Armenian Wood Base. Need to play with it a bit tomorrow (or on the weekend).
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
Today I am ruminating on how I can possibly accept all of the work being thrown at me...? I've had 15 perfumes asked of me just in one week... and more before a week ago... clients in Asia, Europe, and USA. Eeek. Guess I'm gonna need some help ..
 

celo

Active member
Oct 28, 2020
Hoje estou ruminando sobre como posso aceitar todo o trabalho que está sendo jogado para mim ...? Pediram-me 15 perfumes em apenas uma semana ... e mais antes de uma semana atrás ... clientes na Ásia, Europa e EUA. Eeek. Acho que vou precisar de ajuda ..
happy for u, it's wonderful to work with what we love
 

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