What did you do in Perfumery today?

WestOzDave

Active member
Mar 26, 2021
I was pleasantly surprised today to find out that my hard work of learning, diluting, smelling, note taking, accord playing around with and study formula acquiring has really paid off! During research on here and on the net, i have come across a few "Shalimar" formula/notes/ and have tried to recreate to the best of my ability the iconic perfume, and was surprised when I whiffed it at the department store and brought the sample home was amazed it actually smelled quite similar!! Of coarse NOT comparing my lessons of creating it, with the expertise of the professionals example nor the quality of same ingredients....or was I trying to clone, just purely as a study....mine was reasonably close. So a happy little fist pump for me. I feel I have actually learnt and progressed!
 

Citroasis

Well-known member
Jul 24, 2021
So today I got a sample of Sauvignone 100 (4ml). My goodness is this stuff strong as heck!

At a 0.1% Dilution - It still smells insanely strong at this level, very catty (pee) and sulpheric still. Resembles a sharp/bright Cassis note
At a 0.01% Dilution - This seems to be a useable level of dilution. Overall it still smells very Cassis, but the grape nuance came out and still has a touch of bright sparkle edge.

This 4ml vial will last me a lifetime.
 

greeneaj87

Well-known member
May 25, 2020
So today I got a sample of Sauvignone 100 (4ml). My goodness is this stuff strong as heck!

At a 0.1% Dilution - It still smells insanely strong at this level, very catty (pee) and sulpheric still. Resembles a sharp/bright Cassis note
At a 0.01% Dilution - This seems to be a useable level of dilution. Overall it still smells very Cassis, but the grape nuance came out and still has a touch of bright sparkle edge.

This 4ml vial will last me a lifetime.

This might be perfect to pepper in some realism on a berry top note accord I'm working on!!! Thank you, I've never heard of Sauvignone. I see that it's readily available online from reputable sellers, as well.
 

RSG

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2016
I got Fruitaleur in the mail today and diluted it to 10%. I really like this and it is strong. I am hoping it adds some sparkle! I got Habanene and diluted it to 10%. I guess I am working more on top notes. Can't wait to mix some Habanene, poivrol, elemnol accords.

Receive Isoeugenol acetate and I'm a little disappointed. It really does not smell much different than regular isoeugenol to me. Will have to try again.

Mahoganate diluted to 50% and it's not bad but not what I thought it was. Surprisingly fresh smelling.

Melozone diluted to 10% and I'm pretty positive this is part of the mountain air accord that creatingperfume puts out. I'm a fan of it and it's nice to find something I recognize.

Nuezate and diluted to 1%. I kinda hate it right now. Smells exactly like artificial walnut extract or like the bad walnut caramel candy. Turns my stomach. Not great at all to me. Just Blech.

Got a reorder of Syringa aldehyde I use diluted as high as 50% but the new bottle is 10%. Like my 4th bottle in a few years. Love the stuff!

Tobacarol is one of my new absolute favorite materials. Knocks Syringa aldehyde down a few pegs.

Tonalid diluted to 10% and haven't done much with it but just holding it up to other bottles it seems to instantly perfumize anything it's with. Very elegant.

Unfortunately have a bad injury and know I'll be poor in the future so I did 3 perfume orders to hold me over lol Monday starting laser and steroid treatments.

One more order to come :)
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
Inspired by the "citrus" & "vetiver" threads, I'm working on a very basic citrus vetiver fragrance. Yesterday's test was actually pretty damn good IMO! Now I'm trying to decide how to try to achieve that rich complexity of a professional perfume.
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
I got Fruitaleur in the mail today and diluted it to 10%. I really like this and it is strong. I am hoping it adds some sparkle! I got Habanene and diluted it to 10%. I guess I am working more on top notes. Can't wait to mix some Habanene, poivrol, elemnol accords.

Receive Isoeugenol acetate and I'm a little disappointed. It really does not smell much different than regular isoeugenol to me. Will have to try again.

Mahoganate diluted to 50% and it's not bad but not what I thought it was. Surprisingly fresh smelling.

Melozone diluted to 10% and I'm pretty positive this is part of the mountain air accord that creatingperfume puts out. I'm a fan of it and it's nice to find something I recognize.

Nuezate and diluted to 1%. I kinda hate it right now. Smells exactly like artificial walnut extract or like the bad walnut caramel candy. Turns my stomach. Not great at all to me. Just Blech.

Got a reorder of Syringa aldehyde I use diluted as high as 50% but the new bottle is 10%. Like my 4th bottle in a few years. Love the stuff!

Tobacarol is one of my new absolute favorite materials. Knocks Syringa aldehyde down a few pegs.

Tonalid diluted to 10% and haven't done much with it but just holding it up to other bottles it seems to instantly perfumize anything it's with. Very elegant.

Unfortunately have a bad injury and know I'll be poor in the future so I did 3 perfume orders to hold me over lol Monday starting laser and steroid treatments.

One more order to come :)

Yeah tonalid is my recent favorite musk & agree that it adds elegance without a strong affirmative scent of its own. Using it at 2:1 ratio tonalid:ethylene brassylate in my citrus vetiver experiments for super smooth elegance.
 

Jolieo

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2018
RSG I am sorry about your injury, I wish you swift recovery.
I have an accord of frankincense, Vetiver, patchouli - small amounts of cistus , citrus and florals- it is a very sweet amber with a sparkling dry down. I want to cut the sweetness a touch so I will rework it.
I got orders in, but it is too bloody hot to work in my shop- I’m debating doing strips in the house, but it doesn’t give the same joy- but I’ll report back once I get a sense of it.
 

jameshillier

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jul 15, 2020
Today I have finished modelling and have printed my first on-bottle pipette holder (suits my glass pipettes and small disposables).

The aim here is to have a secure and easy-to-move solution to keep pipettes with bottles when I'm using the same materials over and over, while tweaking a blend.

I would prefer the colour to be black but I don't have any black filament at the moment. I'm also wondering about the stability of the PLA material when interacting with the materials on the pipettes. I may need to change to ABS filament.

Does anyone have any knowledge about the stability of PLA / ABS around the perfumery materials and their associated solvents?

Now I just need to print a few more, and test those for a while before committing to printing another 200+ !

Happy to share the design file or STL file if anyone wants it.
These are 30ml bottles with 18mm diameter neck.
62mm from neck to tabletop.
The pipette glass is 7.2mm wide

Pipette Holder 1.jpg
Pipette Holder 3.jpg
Pipette Holder 2.jpg
 

Leshutch

Well-known member
May 17, 2019
I made an Amber Accord to be used in a Animalic Floral Oriental as a friend wants a "deeply sexual heavy fragrance" making. :thumbsup:
 

Citroasis

Well-known member
Jul 24, 2021
I really like this thread. It feels likes it's a free for all "captains log" of random things where people can freely post random cool findings, experiments, etc that they did for today.

Today I took a fragrance that I've been working on ( women's summer fruity aquatic), and just for fun I decided to see what would happen if I replaced one tiny floral material with cyclopindene (2/1,000) and then added in a tiny touch of vanillin (4/1,000) which doesn't seem like it would make a noticable difference based on the doses. And to my surprise the whole fragrance shifted into this semi-tuberose floral boost and creamy sweetness that really was a pleasant surprise.
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
I know how to make a fantastic expensive Tuberose, my 2020 base at PSH, but I am working on an affordable Tuberose base for other purposes...
It's certainly not the same smell as my nice base, it is a different animal. More an idea of Tuberose, than a fresh flower odor profile.
It's already better than other affordable Tuberose bases that I have samples of, some that I have even used in formulas.

I'm just stretching myself to see if I can find something, that can bring it a tiny bit closer to my expensive base, while maintaining affordability.

It's a project that William and I started last Summer during his internship... And I am now a few versions past where he took it.
He built all of the lower end Tuberose formulas that I have access to, and then we went about modifying those.
Now I've gone beyond those formulas a few versions.
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
I really like this thread. It feels likes it's a free for all "captains log" of random things where people can freely post random cool findings, experiments, etc that they did for today.

Today I took a fragrance that I've been working on ( women's summer fruity aquatic), and just for fun I decided to see what would happen if I replaced one tiny floral material with cyclopindene (2/1,000) and then added in a tiny touch of vanillin (4/1,000) which doesn't seem like it would make a noticable difference based on the doses. And to my surprise the whole fragrance shifted into this semi-tuberose floral boost and creamy sweetness that really was a pleasant surprise.

Cyclopidene & vanillin are both very powerful! In my hands, even 1/10 those doses give noticeable effects. In the case of cyclopidene, it is super high vapor pressure & contributes extremely strongly but briefly to the very top notes. So even tho dose is low, the entire dose hits yr nose in a very brief time window. In the case of vanillin, it's the opposite: it's super tenacious & outlasts most other materials (particularly in what would be typical of a "women's summer fruity aquatic"). So once all of the other stuff evaporates, even at a seemingly low dose, you can be left with very prominent vanillic note. Anyway, this is all to say that what you experienced with these two materials is well within expectations. Incidentally, if you are using calone for this fragrance, a bit of lyral forms a gorgeous long drydown accord w calone.
 

Contrapunctus

Well-known member
Mar 4, 2021
Inspired by Paul's lily of the valley graphic, I took a closer look at Dupical and Aquaflora. As already mentioned in the thread there, both have a similar character. For me, Dupical smells more clearly of lily of the valley than Aquaflora. But Dupical also contains an anise-like, ozone-like plastic note, which is characteristic of both molecules. In my layman's impression, it seems to be related to the molecular structure. Dupical and Aquaflora have almost the same structure and differ from all other muguet molecules shown by their nested five-fold bonds.
 

RSG

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2016
I got my last perfume order in for a while. 120 ml of 10% Aldambre. Refills of phenylethyl isobutyrate, Coumarin. Bourgeonal for the first time ever. And of course many tiny samples I'm still working on. Viridine is so interesting!! Thinking that will be bought again soon!

At the ortho clinic, I've been to before they say they want 1600$ before I start steroid shots so I'm waiting a bit on that. The pain clinic did start the cold laser treatments which are surprisingly very hot, then they rub a cooling gel on and essential oils. Started out in so much pain I couldn't be touched; to being able to stand on my own after the treatment. Did a full workout and adjustment and went home for a nap. It must be said that falling down a set of stairs backward and tearing half your pelvis is the worst idea for fun.

Today I feel well enough to sit and play perfume for a bit. I feel optimistic and that is nice too. :)
 

Citroasis

Well-known member
Jul 24, 2021
I got my last perfume order in for a while. 120 ml of 10% Aldambre. Refills of phenylethyl isobutyrate, Coumarin. Bourgeonal for the first time ever. And of course many tiny samples I'm still working on. Viridine is so interesting!! Thinking that will be bought again soon!

Just a heads up, PSH is having a sale starting this friday (15% off most products). I always tell myself "this is the last order for a while, ive got all i need for now"...until I see a sale and then the experimental buys continue, LOL.
 

Noobsinth

Active member
Apr 11, 2020
I got my last perfume order in for a while. 120 ml of 10% Aldambre. Refills of phenylethyl isobutyrate, Coumarin. Bourgeonal for the first time ever. And
Today I feel well enough to sit and play perfume for a bit. I feel optimistic and that is nice too. :)
Ooph... I wish you a swift recovery!

As for myself, I've just blended 86th version of Baccarat Rouge 540 EDP accord. Like previous 10 trials this one smells good enough right after blending, but a bit closer to my goal. After 3 days trial versions usually changed and lost balance, unfortunately. Now I'll wait for the Jasmine Grandiflorum (synth and nat) and Fir Balsam abs and other acs to arrive.
 

Citroasis

Well-known member
Jul 24, 2021
Captains Log #12-429

So today i placed yet another minor order to test some new materials.

From Liberty Natural:
- juniper berry c02 (india): I have the EdenBotanicals Juniper berry c02 which i love, but i wanted to test liberty's to see how it compares from a cost perspective.
- cedarleaf (thuja) EO (canada): Never had cedar leaf before...just wanted to give it a try
- cinnamon bark select c02 (sri lanka): Never had the bark variety before. Usually i just use cinnimic aldehyde with cinnamon leaf oil for my cinnamon needs, but i wanted to give this a try to compare.
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
The only one I've blended with is from Firmenich, but I also have one from Eden Botanicals that smells nearly indistinguishable sniffing the respective bottles (which may not mean a lot).
 

RSG

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2016
Placed an order with PSH during the sale. Original basket was 200$ But in the end I got away with 55$ only lol
 

Citroasis

Well-known member
Jul 24, 2021
Placed an order with PSH during the sale. Original basket was 200$ But in the end I got away with 55$ only lol

Same here. I got a bunch of 5ml bottles to sample a bunch of new stuff. Bought enough to get over the free shipping threshold.

I actually might place another order this weekend, this sale is too good to pass up.
 
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polysom

Well-known member
Apr 4, 2021
I threw away my waste bag with all my smelling strips and other stuff. I was greeted by a wonderful balsamic scent out of the bag. I would love to have this as a perfume. Sadly I don't remember all the materials I had on all those smelling strips.
 

Sabin

Active member
Aug 13, 2021
Seaweed absolute sounds great. I work on a boat but can’t get enough of the ocean. Unless I’m towards the end of my month-2 month shift. Then I’m ready to gtfoh lol
 

Sabin

Active member
Aug 13, 2021
I ordered a cannabis EO from eden botanicals and it didn’t smell like what I was hoping. So today I ordered vetikol acetate I believe it was along with many terpenes found in cannabis and am hoping to create a cannabis accord in the near future. Also ordered some sampaquita to try out. tried to figure out how to actually use a demo formula properly. Another beginner pointed some things out and cleared a lot up for me along with some other people in this thread who shared great advice for a beginner DIY perfumer such as myself. Am still traveling by boat from Alaska to Seattle so can’t wait to get home to my organ and have some fun!
 

myhaiku

Well-known member
Aug 16, 2020
Nothing today, I've had a little health break. I did scrap my strawberry (Fragaria moschata) accord that smelled great when I put it together months ago, but now smells car fragrance. I really love musk strawberries, so it's back to the drawing board with that. =)

Wishing all great success!

(I too am awaiting my shipment from PSH and another place. 20% off and free shipping is great!)
 
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xii

Well-known member
Jun 9, 2015
Last night I managed to blend a reasonably long lasting juniper berry -ish base. Mostly by following Renegade's plan to extend the juniper berry facets.
 

Jolieo

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2018
I have been testing out acs by adding them to a strong amber I made - everything is overdosed then diluted. This amber ate every natural I put in, but the acs are pretty much holding their own ( phenoxanol, florol, Paradisamide, Heyxl Cinnamaldehyde, pentalide, peonile and more)
Because I know what the “perfume “ was doing before- even slap dashing it helps me see what direction they go in. peonile doesn’t smell right to me.
The musks really surprised me with their tenacity and bloom, and modifying powers.
It is sooo hot in my shop- and sooo buggy at night- I have to do hit and runs
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
Today I learned that florex (tonka undecanone) is bizonkerz powerful!!! At 1 ppt in a citrus floral musky composition, it's totally dominating the entirety thing.
 

JamesBeach

Active member
Nov 25, 2013
Today, I finished a violet base, round 1. I'm following roughly the Curtis & Williams book. I've never smelled a real violet, only interpretations in perfume. I was aiming for a transparent, watercolor violet along the lines of Apres l'Ondee or L'Artisan's Vert Violette, which I really love.

It was actually really successful! For once, I'm struggling to think of anything I would change, unless I wanted to take its character in a very different direction. While I built it, I tried to be mindful of where I thought equilibrium might be and whether I truly wanted something to be short or in excess of that, and to be conservative if I was unsure.

This will be a useful base and is wearable by itself. I'm going to whip up a whole batch to use in other experiments.

An achievable exercise for a beginner.
 

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