What did you do in Perfumery today?

RSG

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2016
Thought I'd make a thread for folks to post their daily happenings.


I've been informed that the person using my Oak perfume is about to run out. I tweak it for every new bottling since I usually only make one bottle at a time. The last tweak focused on boozy notes and went a bit too far. Not as bad as the fruity rose direction where a waitress said he smelled like a girl. But still, they don't relish smelling like a drunk lol. So I'm working on resetting it back to the direction before and adding more leather and making sure the balance between oak, leather, vanilla, vintage florals, incense, and vetiver are as good as I can make them. Also thinking of adding damascenone, raising ambroxan level, and seeing what labdanum or cistus materials add. Last tweaking involved roughly 6% of the formula and this might be only 3%. This bottle or the next might be the very last ones to have tweaking and I am looking forward to that!


So, what did you do today? :)
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
I tested out a simple fougère structure without strong opening or heart notes to use for plugging in opening and heart modules for testing. (By opening, in mean sort of "pre-top" notes that last at most a few minutes, where traditional top notes last multiple tens of minutes.) I'm not sure if I've got this working to my liking yet tho...

ETA: And BTW, I think this as a "standing" thread is a great idea!
 

Claudio_Wu

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 14, 2019
Today I reformulated my lavender fragrance by adding more salicylates to the base and middle notes. Meanwhile, I'm still working on a dark vanilla accord. I also started describing the function of each AC and EO in my formulas and found it helps a lot.
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
I tested out a simple fougère structure without strong opening or heart notes to use for plugging in opening and heart modules for testing. (By opening, in mean sort of "pre-top" notes that last at most a few minutes, where traditional top notes last multiple tens of minutes.) I'm not sure if I've got this working to my liking yet tho...

ETA: And BTW, I think this as a "standing" thread is a great idea!

Since I had to coin the term "Last Notes" to encompass my super longevity molecules that I make, I now use the term First Notes for these tippy topnotes that last such a short amount of time. Another Perfumer friend calls them "shorty's".
 

Citroasis

Well-known member
Jul 24, 2021
Just got done formulating a trial batch (#4) for a womens perfume this morning. But while doing so, im testing out the materials Sultanene and Dynascone in it.

In this formula i have a walloping dose of C16 Strawberry, raspberry keytone, and a touch of prunella to give a fruitiness to the main rose accord. I noticed that using just a trace amount of Sultanene (0.001% in the formula concentrate) does sweeten up and "juicify" the fruits in a nice way. But once i go beyond that trace the sultanene pokes it head out and becomes very apparent and the skanky sweet jackfruit becomes apparent.

Dynascone at 0.01% in the concentrate does make a difference, but I think it leans too green galbanum a bit and may not fit this formula the way i intended. But ill have to let this batch sit a few days and sniff again once things settle.
 

jameshillier

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jul 15, 2020
Made another revision to my Tam Dao inspired project. Cut out Santalum Spicatum, reduced Cedarwood Texas, vanillin and methyl laitone. Removed Cedramber, swapped and increased musks and ambroxan among other tweaks. Now it is much closer to the original in general but still not quite where I want it.

Now I'm designing up a 3D printable pipette holder to clip to the side of each bottle so I can hopefully get away from disposable pipettes and use glass+rubber pipettes - or at least use less disposable ones.
 

Citroasis

Well-known member
Jul 24, 2021
Interesting seeing as we are on the subject of glassware, I just tested out one of those ultrasonic cleaners today to wash all my beakers and glass pipettes....and I must say, it was a pleasant surprise to see how easy it cleans and takes so much time off my hands while I just turn it on and walk away for 30min.
 

Ferntim

Well-known member
Apr 14, 2020
Jucify is the right word for what Sultanene does.

My brother is very fond of Montale‘s Oud Tobacco, and gave me a sample. I started working on something similar right away, something less sweet though. Yesterday I learned that Civette really does grow in a perfume and that Honey Signature is mighty strong
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
I'm still fiddling around with fougère formulas. Anyone have an idea for a fundamentally different fragrance structure that would be fun & instructive for me to obsess over?
 

birdie

Well-known member
Dec 11, 2016
I've been trying out about 20 or so new acs. Been working on the musky top notes of a blackberry accord (still to sweet) and trying to isolate the exact composition of a really nice drydown note I found. Oh, also cooked a Vietnamese 3-course dinner and had some friends over. :)
 

RSG

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2016
I love hearing about dinner. Hopefully, it smelled good!!! I made homemade tikka masala for 3 people, no rice but I put chestnuts in it. Used literally a handful of spices. Rave reviews said it was better than our local place and it smelled heavenly!!! Early on in perfumery, I made a dirt scent that used turmeric eo. I still have some of the batch left and it's one of my secret guilty wears. Like no one is home and I'm either gardening or reading outside just smelling like spicy dirt lol
 

greeneaj87

Well-known member
May 25, 2020
Made my first semi-successful accord out of single aromachemicals today. Kind of a milestone for me. Everything kind of comes together into a single scent and I can't pick out the individuals notes easily, so. I ordered 5g of every berry/fruity material I could find on PSH, studied them for a week, and then attempted to make a raspberry accord. Started by mixing together mid/base notes to keep it as linear as possible. Will add top notes next. It took several tries, and a few disgusting failures, but I really like what I came up with. But to be honest it doesn't smell like a raspberry. More like something juicy, fruity, slightly watery/melon, a little sharp and vegetative, and inedible.. maybe guava or something?

Formula at 15.55% concentration (prepared in a 3g batch):

50 Hivernal Neo 1%
50 Raspberry Ketone 10%
50 Paradisamide 10%
10 Khusinil
15 Geranyl Acetate
30 Fructalate
40 Cedramber
50 Iso E super
705 Everclear

1000 Total

I tried to lean it towards woodiness with the cedramber/IES but it isn't doing that. Maybe there's nothing woody in the other chemicals for the IES/Cedramber to amplify?
 
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RSG

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2016
Ordering from Creatingperfume. These are refills.
DOREMOX, CYCLOGALBANATE, SYRINGA ALDEHYDE
These are new
MELOZONE, TONALID, P-METHOXY PHENYL BUTANONE.
And new samples BORNAFIX (IFF) AC0251, CITRAL DIMETHYL ACETAL (IFF) AC0343, LIME OXIDE AC0951, ACETATE PA AC0015, AMYL BENZOATE AC0123
Lot's of fun coming!
 

Citroasis

Well-known member
Jul 24, 2021
My weekend replenish order:

Ambroxan (kao)
Ambrettolide
Muscenone
Cedramber
Tonalide

My weekend order of new things to try:

Clementine oil
Cyclemax (iff)
Helvetolide
Marjoram Wild Oil (Spain)
Marjoram Sweet (Egypt)
Seaweed absolute
Petitgrain sur Fleurs
Thyme ct Carvacrol
 
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pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
Worked on topnotes for a Gardenia perfume.
Designed a new Mint type molecule, also, for the perfume above, mw = 355
Should be able to take mint to the base, in a different manner than d,l-isoborneol types would accomplish.
My existing designed long life mint basenote molecule has an inherent weakness, is smaller, at 287mw, and so am trying to improve my target need molecule with some changes in source materials, recently acquired.
I can't seem to buy Watermint Essential oi, right now, (anymore, possibly), and I need to possibly rework my gardenia perfume to replace the Watermint EO, and this could be part of that solution as well. This new molecule might also be helpful for a Tuberose base too.

Strategized on a high end female perfume line and brand name.
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
A very long lasting giant mint molecule sounds AMAZING!!!

I worked on a very tenacious strong base accord containing benzyl salicylate, vertofix, germacrone, coumarin, evernyl, and Z11. Trying to decide on a musk that can last with this & leaning towards ethylene brassylate.
 

birdie

Well-known member
Dec 11, 2016
I love hearing about dinner. Hopefully, it smelled good!!! I made homemade tikka masala for 3 people, no rice but I put chestnuts in it. Used literally a handful of spices. Rave reviews said it was better than our local place and it smelled heavenly!!! Early on in perfumery, I made a dirt scent that used turmeric eo. I still have some of the batch left and it's one of my secret guilty wears. Like no one is home and I'm either gardening or reading outside just smelling like spicy dirt lol

I love a good Tikka. I often cook a good 4 or 5-course Indian and even make my own Nan bread. Just bought some ghost pepper so may do an insanely spicy Vindaloo soon.
 

Agonhoun

Well-known member
Feb 20, 2021
I received a lot new materials from Perfumer Supply House and "fought" with new materials :laugh:
I would like to tell that PlumeriaFlower Power PK is gorgeous!
Also, first time i try Iso Mohanon - so tasty for me.. Reminded me good agar or old sandalwood.. Nice! I try create perfume with it as mono but not successfully yet ))
Thanks, who advised Rhubofix as scent of marijuana, cos before i used veticol acetate, but rhubofix is more elegant (and it seems Kilian Smoke for the Soul used this exactly)

On the advice, i bought a benzyl acetate natural but it doesnt make my opinion better.. I dont know why but benzyl acetate, salycilate , Iso e super, timbersilk cant be my good friends )
 

RSG

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2016
Our local place has a spicy chicken Vindaloo that we nicknamed satan chicken. They are also a brewery and have jalapeno beer. The two together are magnificent!! At home, I cook for dad though and he does not appreciate hot at all lol
 

Agonhoun

Well-known member
Feb 20, 2021
Worked on topnotes for a Gardenia perfume.

Paul, i would like to thank you for your materials, i was interested to try some materials and bought it. ( Plumeria, Tuberose, Quintessent Quince and etc) Can you advice how to highlight the beauty of Plumeria? what is better companion? (your opinion)
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
Paul, i would like to thank you for your materials, i was interested to try some materials and bought it. ( Plumeria, Tuberose, Quintessent Quince and etc) Can you advice how to highlight the beauty of Plumeria? what is better companion? (your opinion)
Response by PM
 

julian35

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 28, 2009
Interesting seeing as we are on the subject of glassware, I just tested out one of those ultrasonic cleaners today to wash all my beakers and glass pipettes....and I must say, it was a pleasant surprise to see how easy it cleans and takes so much time off my hands while I just turn it on and walk away for 30min.


which one do you use?
 

Citroasis

Well-known member
Jul 24, 2021



which one do you use?

I ended up buying this cheap one on Amazon just to test if even ultrasonic cleaning is worth looking into for glass pipettes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089RCPRZ9

I can say, while it does clean, I think i need to play more with what type of cleaner I use in it. But what I do like is the one I got (2Liter) was small and compact, but large enough to dump like 80 glass pipettes in there. Set it for 30min with heat around 70Celcius and I think it does just a good of a job as my old method (just soaking/submerge the glass pipettes in rubbing alcohol over night and rinsing off the next day with water).

While im still trying to decide if the ultrasonic method is "better" than what i normally do, i can say that it makes cleaning much QUICKER so im not waiting 24 for soaking.
 

julian35

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 28, 2009
I ended up buying this cheap one on Amazon just to test if even ultrasonic cleaning is worth looking into for glass pipettes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089RCPRZ9

I can say, while it does clean, I think i need to play more with what type of cleaner I use in it. But what I do like is the one I got (2Liter) was small and compact, but large enough to dump like 80 glass pipettes in there. Set it for 30min with heat around 70Celcius and I think it does just a good of a job as my old method (just soaking/submerge the glass pipettes in rubbing alcohol over night and rinsing off the next day with water).

While im still trying to decide if the ultrasonic method is "better" than what i normally do, i can say that it makes cleaning much QUICKER so im not waiting 24 for soaking.

Thank you. I have a small one for jewelry cleaning. This one you linked is quite affordable. I may look into this further. Great for getting into all the corners, etc.
 

RSG

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2016
I put together the patchwood contest-winning accord from way back. I didn't have everything so I had to do some replacement. I think it went well but I'm also not very impressed with the smell. However, it does smell quite bookish and paperish so maybe I can still learn something from it and apply it. Even though it does smell old, musty, bookish and weirdly clean it also has something that makes you want to sniff it more.
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
I put together the patchwood contest-winning accord from way back. I didn't have everything so I had to do some replacement. I think it went well but I'm also not very impressed with the smell. However, it does smell quite bookish and paperish so maybe I can still learn something from it and apply it. Even though it does smell old, musty, bookish and weirdly clean it also has something that makes you want to sniff it more.

"can't stop sniffing" is my testing note how I know I've got something good happening.
 

Citroasis

Well-known member
Jul 24, 2021
Today I finally got a chance to get some Seaweed Absolute. To be honest, its not quite what i was hoping it to be, or perhaps the source I got it from (Perfumers Apprentice) wasn't quite what I wanted. Their is 50% diluted in benzyl Benzoate, and the aroma hits me more of a wet Algae slime type rather than kelpy brine salty seaweed.

I think ill have to try Eden Botanicals and see how their is for comparison.
 

apolo085

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2019
I have bought some very nice prickly pears to understand the taste/note, the plate is empty now and I forgot about the reason why I bought them as they was an extreme joy to eat :D
I had the orange variety (see the pic for an example), which are sweeter and may be more complex in the aroma.
Any help or indication for me to begin a reconstruction of prickly pear accord (for perfumery) will be really appreciated.

Prickly_pears.jpg
 

RSG

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2016
I grew up in Texas and was visiting Carlsbad Caverns during one of the very first governmental budget shutdowns. We got locked in, luckily the last guard of the day saw me waving from atop the 10-foot security gate my dad had hoisted me onto. Then we left and hit an Indian trading post. They had a giant prickly pear bush and we took a whole bag of them. Then we went on a tour of a dairy farm and heard they were going to kill this weirdly proportioned baby boy cow. We took him too and he slept on the back dash of the car next to the bag of the prickly pears. It was still hot and so we rolled the windows down and it blew prickly pear stickers all over everything. All of us even the cow had it everywhere even the eyes :( I couldn't do a very good job removing the stickers so we boiled them and then made jam with rose water in it. God they smelled and tasted so good!!! Cow grew up to have his own house and never learned to mooo. He barked and the smell from cuddling him in the hot sun was comforting. Even though he was a weird cow he still had the best dairy cow genetics and so eventually went to a new dairy farm as a stud.
 

apolo085

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2019
Wow, what a story.
Glad you did make it with the little cow... that's quite a story there RSG, thank you for sharing.
I use chewing gum to remove the stickers from the skin, it does work, just chew it till it is less guwy, then roll or press it on the stickers, then pull it.
I was locked in Morocco for several months due to the covid situation, now I don't feel the hurry to come back to France as I am stuck in a project here, sometimes life can push you to accept new things ..long story short, I'm now in prickly pears heaven :D
I bought a really good Moroccan rose hydrosol from the famous rose city where it is produced called "Kalaat M'gouna", I should make a jam with this and some red prickly pears, thanks for the tip.
 

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