What are your top 5 dry-downs in perfumery- and are they being neglected?

[Sultan al Hindi]

Are the construction of basenotes becoming increasingly neglected in modern perfumery or has it always been that way due to the limitation of materials available to fulfill that role?

 

[Pippin06]

My 5 favorites dry downs. I do not think they're being neglected in fragrance communities such as ours.

1. Guerlain Heritage
2. Hermes Bel Ami
3. aramis
4. Gucci Guilty Absolute
5. Azemour les Orangers (from Parfum de Empire)

 

[slpfrsly]

Tough question. I've read/heard different definitions of "dry down" - some saying it arrives within an hour of applying, others much later. To my mind, it seems sensible to consider the dry down to be what the fragrance is like once it's finally settled i.e. no more (notable) change in the aroma for the rest of the wearing. So I'll answer to that.

1. Gucci Nobile - After a good 6 hours of wearing, the vintage/dated mossy-balsam fir aroma is really enjoyable. The base is absent from modern fragrances, eventhough it's clearly using a lot of woodyamber notes (which seem very contemporary) as well.

2. Parfums de Marly Layton - This is great, it's a sweet gourmand that never gets heavy. After 6+ hours, again, you're left with a muted sweet-spicy oriental base that has lost its distinction in the best way. It becomes a warm, comforting aroma that avoids the sickly or cloying elements so many gourmands eventually succumb to.

3. (older) Creed Aventus - It goes without saying, really. The mix of sweet, fresh, musky, and smoky is beautiful. It dries to a pleasant cigarette smoke mingling with a sweet-fresh aftershave smell. Deservedly: one of the best modern fragrances. One of the biggest differences between the real thing and the clones is the dry down - this is where the quality shows.


There are so many more I could mention - fragrances like Guerlain Vetiver for e.g. - but these are the 3 that I've worn the most, so they make my list. I can't think of 5.

Are the construction of basenotes becoming increasingly neglected in modern perfumery or has it always been that way due to the limitation of materials available to fulfill that role?

Yeah, definitely. I think this has been discussed before but it's clear that a lot of brands are chasing top notes, as that's what most people will judge when making a purchase (or not). I wonder if this is on the decline, though, since covid. THere's also the issue of crude linearity - again, an optional choice by perfumers - where you simply get a loud, unchanging, synthetic 'beast' to mitigate the performance issues that arose from reformulations/banning and removal of various ingredients. The new Acqua di Parma EDP is a great example of this: just really horrible stuff, booming and loud, a wall of scent in the worst way. The base is already present from the first spray - a wall of synthetic ambroxan/musk/woody ambers/clary sage.

I would suggest ther's been a decline in both quality of ingredients and craftmanship, which impacts the frequency with which modern fragrance houses are able to produce something with an appealing base.

We're living in a golden age of gourmand-vanillas and probably aquatic-saline musks; outside of that, in terms of woody, mossy etc, things are pretty bad.

 

[cacio]

Concur with slpfrsly. I think that both of your points are correct. Many traditional drydown materials are forbidden or unavailable. And brands seem to spend more money on the bottles and on the first 15 seconds of a perfume to induce a quick purchase.

Regarding favorite drydowns, among still existing perfumes:
Synthetic jungle: dry leathery mossy
New York Intense: mossy gourmand
Rose Cuir: sharp leather

cacio

 

[Sultan al Hindi]

Tough question. I've read/heard different definitions of "dry down" - some saying it arrives within an hour of applying, others much later. To my mind, it seems sensible to consider the dry down to be what the fragrance is like once it's finally settled i.e. no more (notable) change in the aroma for the rest of the wearing. So I'll answer to that.

1. Gucci Nobile - After a good 6 hours of wearing, the vintage/dated mossy-balsam fir aroma is really enjoyable. The base is absent from modern fragrances, eventhough it's clearly using a lot of woodyamber notes (which seem very contemporary) as well.

2. Parfums de Marly Layton - This is great, it's a sweet gourmand that never gets heavy. After 6+ hours, again, you're left with a muted sweet-spicy oriental base that has lost its distinction in the best way. It becomes a warm, comforting aroma that avoids the sickly or cloying elements so many gourmands eventually succumb to.

3. (older) Creed Aventus - It goes without saying, really. The mix of sweet, fresh, musky, and smoky is beautiful. It dries to a pleasant cigarette smoke mingling with a sweet-fresh aftershave smell. Deservedly: one of the best modern fragrances. One of the biggest differences between the real thing and the clones is the dry down - this is where the quality shows.


There are so many more I could mention - fragrances like Guerlain Vetiver for e.g. - but these are the 3 that I've worn the most, so they make my list. I can't think of 5.


Yeah, definitely. I think this has been discussed before but it's clear that a lot of brands are chasing top notes, as that's what most people will judge when making a purchase (or not). I wonder if this is on the decline, though, since covid. THere's also the issue of crude linearity - again, an optional choice by perfumers - where you simply get a loud, unchanging, synthetic 'beast' to mitigate the performance issues that arose from reformulations/banning and removal of various ingredients. The new Acqua di Parma EDP is a great example of this: just really horrible stuff, booming and loud, a wall of scent in the worst way. The base is already present from the first spray - a wall of synthetic ambroxan/musk/woody ambers/clary sage.

I would suggest ther's been a decline in both quality of ingredients and craftmanship, which impacts the frequency with which modern fragrance houses are able to produce something with an appealing base.

We're living in a golden age of gourmand-vanillas and probably aquatic-saline musks; outside of that, in terms of woody, mossy etc, things are pretty bad

Appreciate the response and reasoning. What I was probably getting at more than anything is the lack of originality that is being displayed in this phase of a perfume and how many of them smell similar i.e the woody amber base that we are smelling quite regularly.

 

[Ken_Russell]

Including both fragrances as full bottles and the ones featured in the currently owned lineup in mere sample/decant/miniature size, in otherwise no particular order:

Knize Ten
Van Cleef & Arpels PH
Bogart Furyo
Sartorial by Penhaligon's
Malle Geranium pour Monsieur

While also acknowledging the base dry down of at least part of these quite overlooked outside Basenotes, most of these having a quite old school type of luxuriousness on the rather formal classic side, therefore likely no hype beasts in terms of current popularity and sales figures.

 

[Pippin06]

Including both fragrances as full bottles and the ones featured in the currently owned lineup in mere sample/decant/miniature size, in otherwise no particular order:

Knize Ten
Van Cleef & Arpels PH
Bogart Furyo
Sartorial by Penhaligon's
Malle Geranium pour Monsieur

While also acknowledging the base dry down of at least part of these quite overlooked outside Basenotes, most of these having a quite old school type of luxuriousness on the rather formal classic side, therefore likely no hype beasts in terms of current popularity and sales figures.

Knize Ten and Sartorial are on my dream wish list. Good to know you enjoy the dry downs.

 

[hednic]

Sumac Spice
Santal De Mysore by Montale
Gengis Khan
Balafre
Absolute Frankincense Oil by Clive Christian

 

[Hugh V.]

I don't have that much experience with fragrances. Most fragrances I like tend to be a lot better at the beginning, and I'm lucky if I don't dislike the drydown. But here goes:

1. Santos de Cartier
Starts out amazing, then gets dirty and a little body odor-ish. Then it settles down and it's magic.
2. Grey Flannel
I actually like that challenging opening, but then the middle gets dirty. Not good. Then it becomes this soft, damp, green scent that's extremely enjoyable.
3. John Varvatos Vintage
Mostly, I feel like the real quality comes through in the drydown, once the basenotes come into play. It meshes well with skin chemistry to feel and smell like a second skin. It reminds me of how vintage fragrances smell. I don't know if there's still a bit of oakmoss in JV Vintage, but something in there truly makes it feel "vintage." Not my favorite fragrance because it's a warm weather scent, but what it pulls off at the end is quite impressive.
4. Eternity for Men
I always regret this at first because my bottle is either old school strong, or has slightly, slightly turned. It's very sharp and pungent, and even gets a bit dirty at the middle. But then when it settles...wow. It's got a soft-but-musky vibe to it that again, mixes well with body chemistry.
5. English Laundry London
The opening was great, pineapple, right? Then it got kind of gross. This is what Aventus smells like? Ew. But the other day I said, screw it, and over sprayed to see what would happen. It's supposedly weak. Man, once it dried down I get why people like this style of scent. It kind of reminded me of Polo, but if Polo was supremely smooth and light.

Honorable Mention
Mr. Fine American Blend
I actually like the opening of this, but it's very basic and flat. This green hair spray or hair gel-type of smell, which I actually like. But I don't think it's going to smell too sophisticated or complex. It's pretty linear till it gets to the basenotes. Then it transforms completely, and it actually gives me the vibe of "cold" shaving cream. Cozy, but you don't have to limit it to cold weather wear. Imo, while YSL Rive Gauche is the objectively "superior" fragrance, as it smells far more expensive and complex, to the point that it even "shimmers," I much more prefer the dry down of American Blend. It's like the "working class" version of Rive Gauche. Lets fancy, but more chill and easy to wear.

 

[Sultan al Hindi]

Knize Ten and Sartorial are on my dream wish list. Good to know you enjoy the dry downs.

Not tried Sartorial enough times to make a judgement call, but Knize Ten is a must sniff.Some may find it a little dandy and dated but its a fantastic perfume that has enough complexity to keep you intrigued for many a wearing!

 

[Sultan al Hindi]

I don't have that much experience with fragrances. Most fragrances I like tend to be a lot better at the beginning, and I'm lucky if I don't dislike the drydown. But here goes:

1. Santos de Cartier
Starts out amazing, then gets dirty and a little body odor-ish. Then it settles down and it's magic.
2. Grey Flannel
I actually like that challenging opening, but then the middle gets dirty. Not good. Then it becomes this soft, damp, green scent that's extremely enjoyable.
3. John Varvatos Vintage
Mostly, I feel like the real quality comes through in the drydown, once the basenotes come into play. It meshes well with skin chemistry to feel and smell like a second skin. It reminds me of how vintage fragrances smell. I don't know if there's still a bit of oakmoss in JV Vintage, but something in there truly makes it feel "vintage." Not my favorite fragrance because it's a warm weather scent, but what it pulls off at the end is quite impressive.
4. Eternity for Men
I always regret this at first because my bottle is either old school strong, or has slightly, slightly turned. It's very sharp and pungent, and even gets a bit dirty at the middle. But then when it settles...wow. It's got a soft-but-musky vibe to it that again, mixes well with body chemistry.
5. English Laundry London
The opening was great, pineapple, right? Then it got kind of gross. This is what Aventus smells like? Ew. But the other day I said, screw it, and over sprayed to see what would happen. It's supposedly weak. Man, once it dried down I get why people like this style of scent. It kind of reminded me of Polo, but if Polo was supremely smooth and light.

Honorable Mention
Mr. Fine American Blend
I actually like the opening of this, but it's very basic and flat. This green hair spray or hair gel-type of smell, which I actually like. But I don't think it's going to smell too sophisticated or complex. It's pretty linear till it gets to the basenotes. Then it transforms completely, and it actually gives me the vibe of "cold" shaving cream. Cozy, but you don't have to limit it to cold weather wear. Imo, while YSL Rive Gauche is the objectively "superior" fragrance, as it smells far more expensive and complex, to the point that it even "shimmers," I much more prefer the dry down of American Blend. It's like the "working class" version of Rive Gauche. Lets fancy, but more chill and easy to wear.

Some great mentions there, haven't tried American blend though so shall seek it out (as i really like RG).

 

[The Cologne Cabinet]

What I was probably getting at more than anything is the lack of originality that is being displayed in this phase of a perfume and how many of them smell similar i.e the woody amber base that we are smelling quite regularly.

IMO, fragrances sell at the point of sale based on the top notes and how cool the bottle looks Ex. Bleu de Chanel does this very well.

The Woody Amber / Ambroxan dry down is so dominantly popular because that is what drives the projection and longevity of these popular fragrances so brands are just - wash, rinse, repeat.....

 

[Cigar Guy]

Honorable Mention
Mr. Fine American Blend
I actually like the opening of this, but it's very basic and flat. This green hair spray or hair gel-type of smell, which I actually like. But I don't think it's going to smell too sophisticated or complex. It's pretty linear till it gets to the basenotes. Then it transforms completely, and it actually gives me the vibe of "cold" shaving cream. Cozy, but you don't have to limit it to cold weather wear. Imo, while YSL Rive Gauche is the objectively "superior" fragrance, as it smells far more expensive and complex, to the point that it even "shimmers," I much more prefer the dry down of American Blend. It's like the "working class" version of Rive Gauche. Lets fancy, but more chill and easy to wear.

I bought American Blend when it first came out as an aftershave and my wife was absolutely giddy over it.
As I think back, that bottle of aftershave was really what sent me down the rabbit hole into fragrances.
Now I'm approaching 100 bottles and probably tested over 500 different fragrances...guess what.... my wife's favorite
is still good ol American Blend edt. Who woulda thought.

 

[Melbourne Man]

Sartorial
Heritage
Seville A l'aube
Le Lion
Inasion Barbare

Among my favourite drydowns

 

[Pippin06]

Thahk yo

Not tried Sartorial enough times to make a judgement call, but Knize Ten is a must sniff.Some may find it a little dandy and dated but its a fantastic perfume that has enough complexity to keep you intrigued for many a wea

Sartorial
Heritage
Seville A l'aube
Le Lion
Inasion Barbare

Among my favourite drydowns

Ah, we both share a love for the glorious dry down of Heritage. Magnificent.

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

Chanel Egoiste EDT/ Cologne Concentree
Chanel Antaeus/Antaeus Sport
Chanel Pour Monsieur EDT
Chanel Allure Homme Edition Blanche Cologne Concentree
Dior Homme Intense Silver Collar

 

[Foxsbiscuits]

Guerlain Heritage EDT has a very prominent and enduring drydown phase that is delightful. Echoes of Chanel Chance which I also adore.

Habit Rouge EDT because it can be so changing during its development yet there's a golden moment when the parts overlap in perfect proportion to give the most divine powdery scent. True artistry in perfume.

Tabac Vert I didn't think something could match the above two but Manuel Cross has managed it, there's a complex depth that even when it settles to the drydown doesn't remain completely flat in it's development, much like HR I get that perfect blend of parts every now and then.

Eau de Guerlain because even though it's pitched as an Eau it has an endearing complexity beyond the citrus that lies in its herbal mossy qualities. Once it reheats on my skin after a few hours, pure magic.

 

[Zenwannabee]

As a fan of classic powerhouses, I’m definitely a drydown kind of guy. Limitations on oakmoss obviously have a great impact on modern drydowns, but even in recent formulations, I am very partial to:
—Aramis and Lauder for Men
—Azzaro PH
—Giorgio for Men (perhaps the greatest patchouli drydown ever)
—Obsession
—Boucheron pour Homme EDT

And among the honorable mentions, I like the shout-outs above to Fine aftershave, and I’ll also extol Gillette Cool Wave aftershave, as it’s my most-complimented frag ever. And rich in irony (and drydown) at $2.99 a bottle! 🙂

 

[Foxsbiscuits]

And among the honorable mentions, I like the shout-outs above to Fine aftershave, and I’ll also extol Gillette Cool Wave aftershave, as it’s my most-complimented frag ever. And rich in irony (and drydown) at $2.99 a bottle! 🙂

Bon Monsieur reminds me so much of Cool Wave, have you compared them?
How does Giorgio compare to Heritage, my gold standard of woody amber patchouli drydowns?

 

[Zenwannabee]

Bon Monsieur reminds me so much of Cool Wave, have you compared them?
How does Giorgio compare to Heritage, my gold standard of woody amber patchouli drydowns?

I have not compared Bon Monsieur to Cool Wave, but I should, though Bon Monsieur is on another order of price magnitude. I’ve also not tried Heritage, but I will admit that, other than Shalimar, I sometimes am not a huge fan of the Guerlainade. Still, from reading about Heritage, it seems like it’s lemon/lavender and patchouli, whereas Giorgio Beverly Hills for Men is dominated by a honey/patchouli accord. I did see Heritage compared to Zino (which I love) so I need to try it out. Thanks!

 

[lfc1892]

It’s all about that initial blast for most people.
Walk into a busy high end dept store and watch people buying perfume, and I’ll bet very very few people annoy the sales staff like I do when I insist on going for a walk to let it dry down.
Most folk get sucked in by the top and heart notes and buy based on that. I’m sure the mass market manufacturers know this and so create stuff accordingly. The basenotes are important, but less so than they used to be.

 

[Tilt]

I rarely enjoy that initial blast of the topnotes. Another reason I’m so drawn to attars. For me:

Bogue - mem
Prin - Rahassanai
Nicolai - NY Intense
Sultan Pasha - Ensar Rose
Guerlain - Jicky

 

[saminlondon]

Almost any of the classic Guerlains. After a while you start to crave that Guerlinade drydown - or at least I do.

 

[Melbourne Man]

Guerlain Heritage EDT has a very prominent and enduring drydown phase that is delightful. Echoes of Chanel Chance which I also adore.

Habit Rouge EDT because it can be so changing during its development yet there's a golden moment when the parts overlap in perfect proportion to give the most divine powdery scent. True artistry in perfume.

Tabac Vert I didn't think something could match the above two but Manuel Cross has managed it, there's a complex depth that even when it settles to the drydown doesn't remain completely flat in it's development, much like HR I get that perfect blend of parts every now and then.

Eau de Guerlain because even though it's pitched as an Eau it has an endearing complexity beyond the citrus that lies in its herbal mossy qualities. Once it reheats on my skin after a few hours, pure magic.

Yes! Tabac Vert is lovely through the whole development.

 

[Dane77]

Probably these (in no particular order):

Montale Black Aoud
Dior Eau Noire
Amouage Interlude Man
Parfumerie Générale L'ombre Fauve
Profumi del Forte Ambra Mediterranea