Vintages I Bought - 2023

[PStoller]

Never heard of the house "Morris" before. Is that a British house?

Italian.

 

[hednic]

Italian.

Thank you.

 

[enframing]

Vintages have been pretty fun to find at thrift shops/second hand stores and pharmacies that used to carry fragrances and have old stock. I've found some fun stuff:

Opium EDT from 1980s (still smells great)
Facettes Charisma by Avon
Music by Faberge
L'air du Temps by Nina Ricci
Fendi Uomo after shave
Infini by Caron 8oz bottle (still smells goddamn amazing)
Jontue by Revlon
Lauren by RL, mini, pure perfume.
Eau du Cologne du Coq by Guerlain (good scent, terrible length and sillage)
Fleurs de Bulgarie by Creed
Something called Monte Carlo which smells wonderful
Something called Luxury #21 which smells wonderful.
Beyond Paradise from Lauder (in the booby looking bottle)
Flirt by Prescriptives (absolutely hate this)
Havana by Aramis
Zen by Shiseido (black bottle, gold lettering, only 8% fragrance, but damn if that's not all you need. This shit is strong)
Fire & Ice by Revlon
Ex'cla-ma'tion by Coty
Dazzling Silver by Lauder
Dazzling Gold by Lauder
Armani Mania pour femme
Mania by Armani (no text on bottle)
Aspen by Coty
Sand & Sable by Coty
Nuance by Coty
Wild Musk by Coty
Estee by Lauder
L'eau de Issey (color is off but still smells great)
Nazareno Gabrielli femme (smells exactly like Flirt by Prescriptives, terrible stuff to my nose)

Probably some others I'm missing.

 

[Opiate]

A few vintage minis I’ve bought recently.
Haven’t had the chance to decant and try them yet.

 

[nosey74]

Vintages have been pretty fun to find at thrift shops/second hand stores and pharmacies that used to carry fragrances and have old stock. I've found some fun stuff:

Opium EDT from 1980s (still smells great)
Facettes Charisma by Avon
Music by Faberge
L'air du Temps by Nina Ricci
Fendi Uomo after shave
Infini by Caron 8oz bottle (still smells goddamn amazing)
Jontue by Revlon
Lauren by RL, mini, pure perfume.
Eau du Cologne du Coq by Guerlain (good scent, terrible length and sillage)
Fleurs de Bulgarie by Creed
Something called Monte Carlo which smells wonderful
Something called Luxury #21 which smells wonderful.
Beyond Paradise from Lauder (in the booby looking bottle)
Flirt by Prescriptives (absolutely hate this)
Havana by Aramis
Zen by Shiseido (black bottle, gold lettering, only 8% fragrance, but damn if that's not all you need. This shit is strong)
Fire & Ice by Revlon
Ex'cla-ma'tion by Coty
Dazzling Silver by Lauder
Dazzling Gold by Lauder
Armani Mania pour femme
Mania by Armani (no text on bottle)
Aspen by Coty
Sand & Sable by Coty
Nuance by Coty
Wild Musk by Coty
Estee by Lauder
L'eau de Issey (color is off but still smells great)
Nazareno Gabrielli femme (smells exactly like Flirt by Prescriptives, terrible stuff to my nose)

Probably some others I'm missing.

Someone’s been busy! Congrats!

 

[enframing]

I have some questions about vintages/old stuff.

Many have the same smell that seems to take over the fragrance. I have been referring to it as "dusty" or "metallic." Is there a word that I do not know used to describe this effect? In wine I would liken to "oxidation" but many of these scents have been in closed boxes and have sprayers, so I'd imagine little oxygen could get in. Do scents that use more natural oils spoil more quickly than those using synthetic chemicals?

For example, the Estee Lauder fragrances listed above have all been in boxes, they were found new in box. But they all have a common note that seems very off.

Thank you for educating me.

 

[enframing]

Someone’s been busy! Congrats!

My job entails a lot of driving around so when I see a thrift shop I just pop in and check real quick. There's a couple that get old stuff all the time.

 

[nosey74]

I have some questions about vintages/old stuff.

Many have the same smell that seems to take over the fragrance. I have been referring to it as "dusty" or "metallic." Is there a word that I do not know used to describe this effect? In wine I would liken to "oxidation" but many of these scents have been in closed boxes and have sprayers, so I'd imagine little oxygen could get in. Do scents that use more natural oils spoil more quickly than those using synthetic chemicals?

For example, the Estee Lauder fragrances listed above have all been in boxes, they were found new in box. But they all have a common note that seems very off.

Thank you for educating me.

I don’t know if there’s an official word for it but I know many of us vintage heads know what you’re talking about. It could be that the top notes are off due to storage. How do they dry down - does it smell better or does the whole thing smell off?

 

[enframing]

I don’t know if there’s an official word for it but I know many of us vintage heads know what you’re talking about. It could be that the top notes are off due to storage. How do they dry down - does it smell better or does the whole thing smell off?

Some smell better on paper than they do on my skin after dry down. Some smell off on both.

 

[nosey74]

Some smell better on paper than they do on my skin after dry down. Some smell off on both.

They sound like they may have gone rancid / spoiled which can happen if fragrances aren’t stored properly even if they are brand new old stock and sealed.

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

A few vintage minis I’ve bought recently.
Haven’t had the chance to decant and try them yet.

View attachment 327344

Enjoy these in good health, maybe one of them might lead to a full size bottle.

 

[enframing]

They sound like they may have gone rancid / spoiled which can happen if fragrances aren’t stored properly even if they are brand new old stock and sealed.

See that's what I don't understand.

I'm coming at this from a liqueur/amaro angle, of which there are many out there on liquor store shelves for decades and they are only at the very most 39% alcohol. I have found many and other than some slight oxidation and evaporation, they are decent, certainly not rancid, many are wine based. The aromatics in liqueurs are in large part created the same way perfumers do: distillation, maceration, &c.

These perfumes are at least what, 70% alcohol? How does this happen to a perfume in a box?

Admittedly, I am not a chemist, but what, excessive heat the issue? What kills perfume that doesn't seem to kill an amaro that is decades old?

I want to learn.

 

[nosey74]

See that's what I don't understand.

I'm coming at this from a liqueur/amaro angle, of which there are many out there on liquor store shelves for decades and they are only at the very most 39% alcohol. I have found many and other than some slight oxidation and evaporation, they are decent, certainly not rancid, many are wine based. The aromatics in liqueurs are in large part created the same way perfumers do: distillation, maceration, &c.

These perfumes are at least what, 70% alcohol? How does this happen to a perfume in a box?

Admittedly, I am not a chemist, but what, excessive heat the issue? What kills perfume that doesn't seem to kill an amaro that is decades old?

I want to learn.

I'm not a chemist nor am I a perfume or alcohol expert.

From what I read exposure to prolonged heat and light (sun) can ruin fragrances. Sometimes fragrances are stored in rooms that are not climate controlled, i.e., warehouses, bathrooms, storage lockers, garages, store window fronts, etc.

Wine and such are fermented and usually get better with age. Perfume is not fermented so maybe that's why they can't play by the same rules as spirits? I'm just guessing I really don't know.

 

[woodnotes55]

I'm not a chemist nor am I a perfume or alcohol expert.

From what I read exposure to prolonged heat and light (sun) can ruin fragrances. Sometimes fragrances are stored in rooms that are not climate controlled, i.e., warehouses, bathrooms, storage lockers, garages, store window fronts, etc.

Wine and such are fermented and usually get better with age. Perfume is not fermented so maybe that's why they can't play by the same rules as spirits? I'm just guessing I really don't know.

Another non-chemist jumping in. Wine is interesting, but perhaps misleading too. There is a huge amount of wine produced that won't get any better than when it's sold, and a smaller amount due to quality, grape, etc, that can or will age well. Good chance the average bottle will be worse five years later. Then you have hard liquor, a bourbon or gin that you could set in the window in the heat and light and the average person might not identify it from a new one. There are (usually) chemical additives for wine for sugar and acid levels among other things, and different ones in hard liquor. But except wine going vinegar it's unusual to hear of older liquor going "bad". My guess would be that fragrances have a much greater variety, volume, and total number of chemicals so it's more likely that one (or more) of them can't handle certain conditions - like light, head, and age - and that they break down or change in a more impactful matter and overload what is left of the rest....

Maybe we need a real chemist to explain this, probably in a way that us non-chemists won't understand anyway!!

 

[sagebrush]

Just bought a barely-used bottle of 2009 Etro Sandalo. Hope it's OK.
Don't often buy vintage/older, nor unknown seller s/hand.

It arrived. Don't get too excited, it's not gold cap vintage with the reputed creamy, buttery 'real deal' Mysore sandalwood.
Merely an early version of the silver cap purple + white paisley box, pre-2013 IFRA regs. There's no oakmoss listed (was there ever?)
Better than I recall the notino sample from 2018. I like this.

Citrus topnotes as listed (lemon, bitter orange) are barely in evidence (reviews suggest they are not especially prominent).
Opening is a bit harsh, but dissipates almost immediately to leave chalky, milky, powdery sandalwood at the forefront, a definite cedarwood note, a billowy floral (perhaps lilac, perhaps lavender+rose), and green hints of cypress and patchouli, with some amber/vanilla in the base.
I don't get any incense, but I don't think that note was ever involved.
Has that typical Etro dustiness.
Projection and sillage ? Not much, but to my nose, this is a very pleasant scent for personal enjoyment. Good for in-person work.

It might have sandalwood, patchouli and lavender in common, but this is nothing like Guerlain Heritage. Much more a sandalwood solinote.

 

[WarmJewel]

Recently acquired.

Chanel - Pour Monsieur Eau de Toilette Concentree. 75ml.

From the batch code 0701, dated to March 2000.

 

[nosey74]

See that's what I don't understand.

I'm coming at this from a liqueur/amaro angle, of which there are many out there on liquor store shelves for decades and they are only at the very most 39% alcohol. I have found many and other than some slight oxidation and evaporation, they are decent, certainly not rancid, many are wine based. The aromatics in liqueurs are in large part created the same way perfumers do: distillation, maceration, &c.

These perfumes are at least what, 70% alcohol? How does this happen to a perfume in a box?

Admittedly, I am not a chemist, but what, excessive heat the issue? What kills perfume that doesn't seem to kill an amaro that is decades old?

I want to learn.

You know it just crossed my mind - why don't you ask the folks over at the Fragrance DIY forum? I think someone there would be able to answer your question.

Fragrance DIY

Discussion forum for those who create their own perfumes.

basenotes.com

 

[WarmJewel]

Recently acquired.

Davidoff - Cool Water. Aftershave, 75ml.

Dating wise, going on the box, distributor, short list of ingredients somewhere between 1998 - 2004. Checkfresh reckons 2020 so probably the year 2000. Very reasonably priced, so couldn't resist it!

 

[WarmJewel]

These perfumes are at least what, 70% alcohol? How does this happen to a perfume in a box?

I'm no expert nor a chemist so this is just my personal view and has no greater weight than anyone elses.

Wines and spirits contain a fair amount sugar in them, particularly the sweeter ones and sugar is a natural preservative.

Fragrances on the other hand have unstable molecules that can oxidise when exposed to oxygen in the air. As soon as you spray that sprayer for the first time or open a splash bottle the oxidisation process begins. Oxidisation can effect aroma molecules in different ways depending on their type. Generally citrus, fruits, aromatics, greens and patchouli are sensitive to oxidisation. Contrary to popular belief many glass fragrance bottles are porous and have microscopic holes in them that oxygen can get in through and start the oxidisation process even in unopened bottles and boxes. This would also explain the evaporation that can occur in previously sealed and unopened boxes and bottles.

Oxidised top notes can be detected by a slightly metallic smell to them.

 

[Z_LiDs]

these week i found these two

 

[Martialisaragon]

The Patou is from 1985 (seven digit code; ROTLS). The Tabac is marked with ° , so I guess before 1985? The Gucci came without package nor the golden brooch on the cap. The scent is intact though, I dare say. First it reminded me of Aramis 900, but at a side by side comparison, A900 paled. I only have the Gentlemans collection which might explain some. Still, the Gucci is a very impressive scent and if you can wear the Aramis you can easily wear this.

These were all very cheap and all pre-barcode except for the Patou which is from '97. The Lagerfeld wears like an edt almost.

 

[nosey74]

View attachment 327664
The Patou is from 1985 (seven digit code; ROTLS). The Tabac is marked with ° , so I guess before 1985? The Gucci came without package nor the golden brooch on the cap. The scent is intact though, I dare say. First it reminded me of Aramis 900, but at a side by side comparison, A900 paled. I only have the Gentlemans collection which might explain some. Still, the Gucci is a very impressive scent and if you can wear the Aramis you can easily wear this.
View attachment 327665
These were all very cheap and all pre-barcode except for the Patou which is from '97. The Lagerfeld wears like an edt almost.

Nice haul!

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

these week i found these two
View attachment 327551

Those Antaeus bottles are superb. Great choices for both

View attachment 327664
The Patou is from 1985 (seven digit code; ROTLS). The Tabac is marked with ° , so I guess before 1985? The Gucci came without package nor the golden brooch on the cap. The scent is intact though, I dare say. First it reminded me of Aramis 900, but at a side by side comparison, A900 paled. I only have the Gentlemans collection which might explain some. Still, the Gucci is a very impressive scent and if you can wear the Aramis you can easily wear this.
View attachment 327665
These were all very cheap and all pre-barcode except for the Patou which is from '97. The Lagerfeld wears like an edt almost.

Excellent haul. L'Arte di Gucci is wonderful.

Recently acquired.

Chanel - Pour Monsieur Eau de Toilette Concentree. 75ml.

From the batch code 0701, dated to March 2000.

View attachment 327511 View attachment 327512 View attachment 327513 View attachment 327514 View attachment 327515 View attachment 327516

A nice barbershop Pour Monsieur Concentree is.

 

[Jean-Sté]

Four nice after-shaves:

 

[Jean-Sté]

And two more. Krizia Uomo came without box, but I bought it for 2 euros, so...No complaining !

 

[woodnotes55]

And two more. Krizia Uomo came without box, but I bought it for 2 euros, so...No complaining !

Score of the month!!! Well done!!!

 

[Jean-Sté]

Score of the month!!! Well done!!!

Thank you very much, Woodnotes55 !

 

[Jean-Sté]

One more very nice after-shave:

 

[Redfish365]

I have some questions about vintages/old stuff.

Many have the same smell that seems to take over the fragrance. I have been referring to it as "dusty" or "metallic." Is there a word that I do not know used to describe this effect? In wine I would liken to "oxidation" but many of these scents have been in closed boxes and have sprayers, so I'd imagine little oxygen could get in. Do scents that use more natural oils spoil more quickly than those using synthetic chemicals?

Are you sure it isn't just that the top notes have dissipated and you're smelling a more concentrated oakmoss or some other basenote??

 

[hednic]

One more very nice after-shave:

View attachment 327952

I take it that you must have amassed a very large collection of vintage after-shaves?

 

[Jean-Sté]

I take it that you must have amassed a very large collection of vintage after-shaves?

Indeed ! I'm trying to get each after-shave with the matching eau de toilette I love...

 

[relus]

Already got the Concentree version, but the regular version is even better imo. This old Rochas bottle smells so fresh and devine, and to make it even better, it was only 8 euros...wich is a crime really.

 

[relus]

These 2 minis are classic material, an mini Opium from 70s...and the Armani from the 80s...i really really like the designer men and womens stuff from Ysl, Armani and for example an Versace when they made some much awesome stuff. Along this also got an Versace his 1st womans scent coming in later.

 

[Jean-Sté]

Already got the Concentree version, but the regular version is even better imo. This old Rochas bottle smells so fresh and devine, and to make it even better, it was only 8 euros...wich is a crime really.

Great bargain ! Congratulations, Relus !

 

[Ali AD]

Just got this beauty along with a stash of others that I'll post later.

Anyone knows which year this is from? Ran the batch code but nothing definitive... I'm guessing early 80's YSL Paris version.

 

[WarmJewel]

Just got this beauty along with a stash of others that I'll post later.

Anyone knows which year this is from? Ran the batch code but nothing definitive... I'm guessing early 80's YSL Paris version.

1987. First batch code digit is the year.

Crossover bottle between Charles of the Ritz/Squibb and the reacquision by Yves Saint Laurent which becomes the Parfums Corp years.

 

[NoseFragrances]

pre-1980 sealed Miss Dior EDT
1972 Jean Patou Joy Parfum

 

[Ali AD]

1987. First batch code digit is the year.

Crossover bottle between Charles of the Ritz/Squibb and the reacquision by Yves Saint Laurent which becomes the Parfums Corp years.

Thanks @WarmJewel great to know!

 

[NoseFragrances]

I've set out to sample more older and/or vintage stuff. Will pretty much try to sample several a week. Have miniatures on the way for:

Guerain L'Heure Bleue
Chanel Cristalle EDT
D'Orsay Eau Fringante
Worth Je Reviens EDT
Van Cleef & Arpels First EDT
Ted Lapidus Fantasme
Prada EDT
Prada L'Eau Ambee
Balman Ivoire De Balmain
Andy Warhol EDT
D'Orsay Arome 3 (old version)
D'Orsay Arome 3 (newer version)
Versace Profumi EDP
Balenciage Le Dix
Ralph Lauren Safari
D'Orsay Eau De Cologne
Guerlain Champs-Elysees
Guerlain Mahora EDP
Guerlain Vetiver EDT
Francesco Smalto Pour Homme EDT
Hermes Rouge EDT
Caron Nocturnes Cologne Fraiche
Chanel No. 5 EDT
Rochas Femme Rochas
Rochas Madame Rochas
Lancome Tresor
Lancome Flore EDP
Lancome Poeme
Carolina Herrera Flore

 

[hednic]

I've set out to sample more older and/or vintage stuff. Will pretty much try to sample several a week. Have miniatures on the way for:


D'Orsay Arome 3 (old version)
D'Orsay Arome 3 (newer version)
Versace Profumi EDP
Guerlain Vetiver EDT
Francesco Smalto Pour Homme EDT

These five above IMO are especially nice and hope you find them to your liking when you try them.