Vintage SOTD Thread for October 2022

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JON RODGERS

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
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Redfish365

Basenotes Dependent
May 5, 2021
Ted Lapidus pour Homme.
(I'll admit I was inspired by my friend from across the pond Jean-Sté. Great call Jean! Not that I need too many excuses to don this treasure!
This was my first real fragrance obsession since I learned of its existence and it took me a couple months to track down an affordable bottle. It has become somewhat of an expensive bottle from the house of Lapidus but in my opinion it's also the best. Lapidus pour Homme is a reasonably close second.)

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PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
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SOTE: Roger & Gallet - Fleurs d’Amour

The top notes in my partial are fleeting, but the rest feels like a fluffy floral cloud. For a fragrance with such a densely populated pyramid, Fleurs d’Amour is as gossamer as it gets. So, not a performance monster, but rather an impressive balancing act that showcases the virtues of base staples like tonka, musk, and benzoin when applied with a light tough instead of suffocating excess, in support of a thoughtfully mixed bouquet.
 
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motorcade

Basenotes Dependent
Dec 21, 2020
When I compared them side to side, the advantage of vintage was longevity. The scent is very much the same.
Thanks for the info! Actually, I get decent longevity out of the new version.

Oh, and a heads up for anyone really wanting to backup: on European eBay, there's a lot of 40 (!!) 50 ml vintage Or Black vaporisateurs currently on sale for about 2000 euros...
 
Jul 9, 2021
SoTD
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Layering current Bogart Signature (1975) with pre-barcode vintage after shave. André Moreau of ROTLS suggests that this will come close to the real vintage experience. I think that this only succeeds partially. For the first three hours or maybe a little less, it is like a fuller « vintage experience » with a heftier base. Then quite suddenly something happens and you’re back to the slightly disappointing and IMO somewhat top-heavy and sharp current Signature, with an inflated and atrophied base. This approach is very satisfying while it lasts, a warm, rewarding and fulfilling experience that boosts confidence. It just goes to show that the original natural ingredient that is now banned has unique and irreplaceable canvas-like properties, essential to the whole structure and profile of the scent.
 

motorcade

Basenotes Dependent
Dec 21, 2020
SoTD
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Layering current Bogart Signature (1975) with pre-barcode vintage after shave. André Moreau of ROTLS suggests that this will come close to the real vintage experience. I think that this only succeeds partially. For the first three hours or maybe a little less, it is like a fuller « vintage experience » with a heftier base. Then quite suddenly something happens and you’re back to the slightly disappointing and IMO somewhat top-heavy and sharp current Signature, with an inflated and atrophied base. This approach is very satisfying while it lasts, a warm, rewarding and fulfilling experience that boosts confidence. It just goes to show that the original natural ingredient that is now banned has unique and irreplaceable canvas-like properties, essential to the whole structure and profile of the scent.
Very interesting, thanks! Especially so, as I remember reading comments about the vintage not necessarily being worth the hunt, because the new version is close enough.

Do you happen to have the box for the EdT somewhere? I'm asking, because my Signature EdT dates to 2013 and still had evernia prunastri listed. I've wondered if they've since removed it altogether.

Every once in a while, I've toyed with the idea of jumping for the vintage. I find the 2013 version almost refreshing in a way. I think I can smell the moss there but no doubt the levels are much lower versus the original (which I've never sniffed).
 

Redfish365

Basenotes Dependent
May 5, 2021
Mitos by Napoleon by Morris.
(Confusing name, I just call it Mitos. A spicy slightly floral, slightly citrusy EDT with great staying power and good sillage. Born in the early to mid 80s - Basenotes says 1983, others 1986 - it features the notes I like to see such as oakmoss, castoreum, civet, cumin and ambergris among others. It has a persistent background geranium and patchouli and in the mid there's sandalwood, cedar and vetiver. I don't want to overlook the Mandarin orange from the top which continues to peek its head out well into the wear. I'd also point out that considering the large number of animalics in the note listing it really isn't an especially animalic fragrance. The melange of animalics creates a warm, humid miasma which blankets the whole endeavor beautifully. Overall it smells classic and while some might call it dated I call it a rich, warm delight.)

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Jul 9, 2021
Very interesting, thanks! Especially so, as I remember reading comments about the vintage not necessarily being worth the hunt, because the new version is close enough.

Do you happen to have the box for the EdT somewhere? I'm asking, because my Signature EdT dates to 2013 and still had evernia prunastri listed. I've wondered if they've since removed it altogether.

Every once in a while, I've toyed with the idea of jumping for the vintage. I find the 2013 version almost refreshing in a way. I think I can smell the moss there but no doubt the levels are much lower versus the original (which I've never sniffed).
You're most welcome!

My bottle is from 2011 and also lists oakmoss. But I am certain that it was made after the tougher regulations was implemented early on in that year.

Yes, there is a clear difference for the better with this practice, to my mind. Unfortunately it was kind of short-lived, pouf, and it shrank quite suddenly from being assertive and boisterous to a much more timid stature, which was anti-climactic. This is, as you also sometimes have mentioned when dealing with the ethereal and fleeting experience that is fragrance, possibly partly conjecture. Still, I think the difference is very clear, my gf felt it too and she liked it much better than she has before. Maybe I should just re-apply or be more generous with the sprays to make it last a whole evening. Or buy a vintage edt, of course. 😏
 

motorcade

Basenotes Dependent
Dec 21, 2020
Mitos by Napoleon by Morris.
(Confusing name, I just call it Mitos. A spicy slightly floral, slightly citrusy EDT with great staying power and good sillage. Born in the early to mid 80s - Basenotes says 1983, others 1986 - it features the notes I like to see such as oakmoss, castoreum, civet, cumin and ambergris among others. It has a persistent background geranium and patchouli and in the mid there's sandalwood, cedar and vetiver. I don't want to overlook the Mandarin orange from the top which continues to peek its head out well into the wear. I'd also point out that considering the large number of animalics in the note listing it really isn't an especially animalic fragrance. The melange of animalics creates a warm, humid miasma which blankets the whole endeavor beautifully. Overall it smells classic and while some might call it dated I call it a rich, warm delight.)

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Haha, yeah it's a clumsy name. I've resorted to calling mine Morris Mitos by Napoleon (Morris being the distributor). But my pressurized atomiseur bottle looks quite different from yours, including a different looking logo. I don't have the box and sadly the concentration percentage isn't written anywhere on the bottle. Batch code is 010585. Still, I'm guessing they must be the "same" fragrance. Spicy and, like you wrote, has very good longevity.
 

Redfish365

Basenotes Dependent
May 5, 2021
Haha, yeah it's a clumsy name. I've resorted to calling mine Morris Mitos by Napoleon (Morris being the distributor). But my pressurized atomiseur bottle looks quite different from yours, including a different looking logo. I don't have the box and sadly the concentration percentage isn't written anywhere on the bottle. Batch code is 010585. Still, I'm guessing they must be the "same" fragrance. Spicy and, like you wrote, has very good longevity.
Ooh! I'd love to see your pressurized bottle! Mine isn't pressurized and the bottle is a little plain and the label a bit boring. But the contents are quite nice!
 

Cook.bot

Flâneuse
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
Guys, I just went hunting online to see what the recent bottles of Or Black were selling for. I couldn't find a single bottle at any of the usual discounters, and none at all on the eBay sites for the US, UK, or Spain. There was one seller on eBay France who had 4 bottles for 55 euros each. (There were several vintage miniatures on many auction sites, and one delusional Etsy seller who had a modern 100ml bottle for $256.)

Wasn't it only about a year ago that several of us picked up 100ml bottles for around $30 from a French seller? How could it all disappear so quickly and so completely from everywhere?
 
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