Vintage SOTD Thread for November 2021

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hednic

Well-known member
Oct 25, 2007
SOTE: Ignis By Omar Sharif

17297_b596895cead086cc12bc99def0fa3f2c_ignis.jpg
 

Cook.bot

Common Lackey
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
Miss Dior EDT (1947) by Carles & Vacher for Christian Dior

From the most adorable little mini, houndstooth print on glass, teeny crystal stopper and everything. I can never wear this anymore without thinking of @grayspoole. I usually wear the EDC, and this has a much more plush texture and rounder spice profile. Pretty damned yummy.

DiorMissDiorEDT.houndstooth.mini.1.jpg
 

Cevenol

Well-known member
Dec 22, 2015
Miss Dior EDT (1947) by Carles & Vacher for Christian Dior

From the most adorable little mini, houndstooth print on glass, teeny crystal stopper and everything. I can never wear this anymore without thinking of @grayspoole. I usually wear the EDC, and this has a much more plush texture and rounder spice profile. Pretty damned yummy.

View attachment 176302
So good...wearing it tonight!
 

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
IMG_20210210_183544_547.jpg
Rochas Globe (1990)

A fresh floral balsamic fragrance with a clean top, but a wick of castoreum in the base.

This sits somewhere between the florals of the later Givenchy Insensé (1993) and the soapy leather of Chanel Antaeus (1981).

Closer to the latter than the former, Globe has the luxury of being vastly overlooked because it's from Rochas and not a "major player" like Givenchy, meaning community hype and subsequent gouging have yet to find it.

All the better I say, and I actually prefer this to Insensé precisely because of that extra little push of fir, cedar, and castoreum mostly missing from the Givenchy.

That Globe is at least still accessible to the budding vintage enthusiast without selling their kidneys on the dark web is an added bonus.

PS: I can't help but think of The Nautilus from 2000 Leagues Under the Sea when looking at this bottle.
 

LiveJazz

Funky fresh
Basenotes Plus
Mar 16, 2006
View attachment 176346
Rochas Globe (1990)

A fresh floral balsamic fragrance with a clean top, but a wick of castoreum in the base.

This sits somewhere between the florals of the later Givenchy Insensé (1993) and the soapy leather of Chanel Antaeus (1981).

Closer to the latter than the former, Globe has the luxury of being vastly overlooked because it's from Rochas and not a "major player" like Givenchy, meaning community hype and subsequent gouging have yet to find it.

All the better I say, and I actually prefer this to Insensé precisely because of that extra little push of fir, cedar, and castoreum mostly missing from the Givenchy.

That Globe is at least still accessible to the budding vintage enthusiast without selling their kidneys on the dark web is an added bonus.

PS: I can't help but think of The Nautilus from 2000 Leagues Under the Sea when looking at this bottle.
Nice summary. Agree all around! This one didn’t really stand out to me when I first sampled, but it massively grew on me over the years. It’s a complex brew of good 80s and early 90s things, which can make it hard to pin down at first. But so well done.
 

Jean-Sté

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jan 1, 2021
SOTA: Dunhill for Men (1934)

This quote from the Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy sums it up:
"In those days spirits were brave, the stakes were high, men were real men, women were real women and small furry creatures from Alpha Centauri were real small furry creatures from Alpha Centauri."
I love the Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy ! Thanks for reminding it to me, MisterK ! And I can see the way you put it along with Dunhill for Men.
 

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
Nice summary. Agree all around! This one didn’t really stand out to me when I first sampled, but it massively grew on me over the years. It’s a complex brew of good 80s and early 90s things, which can make it hard to pin down at first. But so well done.
Absolutely fantastic!

I think scents like these that pushed the 80's vibe into the 90's (or tried to) were made "business as usual" and unaware of the cultural revolution taking place away from 80's excess towards 90's asceticism.

Not everyone was aware that grunge would replace neoclassical guitar wankery, or that lumberjack flannels and tan boots would replace neon stripes and velcro tennis shoes.

Likewise white t-shirt androgyny and fresh synthetic unisex fragrance was not thought to replace the gender hardcoding that become more and more polarized since the postwar period really set "his and hers" fragrances in motion.

It was quite literally a full-stop and reboot that transpired from about 1988-1994, although things somewhat returned to normal briefly again in the early 2000's (thanks to the retro craze).

Scents like Rochas Globe, Balenciaga pour Homme, and Égoïste were sort of the "rear guard" for the 80's, and although Égoïste became a cult hit (which keeps it in production somewhat), it was not a smash success, hence the "apology" of Platinum Égoïste in 93.

Everything else was instantly a dinosaur before ever even hitting the shelf, dead on arrival while all the kids were huffing calone-1951, hedione high-cis, and dihydromyrcenol, for better or worse.
 

LiveJazz

Funky fresh
Basenotes Plus
Mar 16, 2006
Absolutely fantastic!

I think scents like these that pushed the 80's vibe into the 90's (or tried to) were made "business as usual" and unaware of the cultural revolution taking place away from 80's excess towards 90's asceticism.

Not everyone was aware that grunge would replace neoclassical guitar wankery, or that lumberjack flannels and tan boots would replace neon stripes and velcro tennis shoes.

Likewise white t-shirt androgyny and fresh synthetic unisex fragrance was not thought to replace the gender hardcoding that become more and more polarized since the postwar period really set "his and hers" fragrances in motion.

It was quite literally a full-stop and reboot that transpired from about 1988-1994, although things somewhat returned to normal briefly again in the early 2000's (thanks to the retro craze).

Scents like Rochas Globe, Balenciaga pour Homme, and Égoïste were sort of the "rear guard" for the 80's, and although Égoïste became a cult hit (which keeps it in production somewhat), it was not a smash success, hence the "apology" of Platinum Égoïste in 93.

Everything else was instantly a dinosaur before ever even hitting the shelf, dead on arrival while all the kids were huffing calone-1951, hedione high-cis, and dihydromyrcenol, for better or worse.
One of the more interesting periods of masculine perfumery for sure. There’s a good reason so many releases during that transition have gained cult followings. As in, I don’t think it’s just folks chasing rarities: they are really interesting and distinctive creations. They represented sort of a final euphoric frenzy of 80s excess. Or the point when 80s finally jumped the shark, depending on your tastes. As for me, I think neoclassic guitar wankery represents the best kind of wankery.

SOTA: Dunhill for Men (1934)

This quote from the Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy sums it up:
"In those days spirits were brave, the stakes were high, men were real men, women were real women and small furry creatures from Alpha Centauri were real small furry creatures from Alpha Centauri."
Aaand I’m going to reread the series now.
 

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
One of the more interesting periods of masculine perfumery for sure. There’s a good reason so many releases during that transition have gained cult followings. As in, I don’t think it’s just folks chasing rarities: they are really interesting and distinctive creations. They represented sort of a final euphoric frenzy of 80s excess. Or the point when 80s finally jumped the shark, depending on your tastes. As for me, I think neoclassic guitar wankery is the best kind of wankery.


Aaand I’m going to reread the series now.
I agree. Folks chasing rarities tend to shoot more for the real "big money" unicorns these days, which all seem to invariably come from the late 70's/early 80's transition (aka "boomer prime") era, when guys born in the late 50's to early 60's were hitting their stag years.

The nostalgia for one's prime was really the impetus for sending prices of things like VC&A pH, Patou pH, Aigner Super Fragrance, Lanvin for Men, Dunhill Blend 30, and so on when each got the axe and dried up (at different points in time to be sure). Same applies to deep vintage batches of Kouros and Antaeus et al.

Then the legends get taller on down the line from all the posturing, gushing, and gatekeeping surrounding them, which attracts the younger vintage collectors with something to proove and cash to prove it with.

Meanwhile, the late 80's/early 90's stuff you mentioned was not only released after most of these older guys started already tuning out, but also amidst the new crop of freshies grabbing the attention of Gen X, so just like a hair metal record released in 1990, they didn't have an audience.

Sure, a few of these cusp powerhouses have since become scarce and "rare" (thus subject to similar gouging as the aforementioned older powerhouses); but this is mostly due to "FragComm" hype.

You can squarely blame the prices of Balenciaga pour Homme on Sebastian from Smelling Great Fragrances for example, as he just made video after video including it. I think it would take a similar phenomenon to finally see more obscure things like Maxim's finally become a "unicorn" too.

It's for exactly the reason you said, stuff like Furyo, Sybaris, Ténéré, Tristano d'Onofrio, Anucci, and Joint all just "jumped the shark" by dialing their 80's flamboyance to 11, whether they were made before or after the decade's end.

They were just "too 80's" for their own good while stuff like Gucci Nobile and Guerlain Derby command mints because they have the name, plus were square down the middle for the time they were born into.
 

Cook.bot

Common Lackey
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
PS: I can't help but think of The Nautilus from 2000 Leagues Under the Sea when looking at this bottle.

The bottle is brilliant. I still need to try the scent one day.

Copycatting Ms. Bot’s pick yesterday. Yum.

YOU are yum.

I wore No. 19 today for the vetiver sync, and it was a whole 'nother critter in the dry, cold weather than it is in the summer, when I usually wear it. The green iris popped a lot more and the whole shebang just fizzed.

A parfum, from the little black lipstick case on the right side. Almost empty, dammit.

Chanel_No19_MyGroup2.15april2020.jpg
 
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