Vintage SOTD Thread for March 2023

[Professor Value]

My #SOTD 🖤
Wife likes it. 😉

BLACK SUEDE

 

[aero58]

Chanel Antaeus

This bottle is one of two that I have that are pre-bar code. This particular one is stronger than the other - more growl, more leather; must not over-apply this one, and has to be in cooler/cold weather.

 

[Redfish365]

Eau Noble by Le Galion (1972)
(From the very first spray you can tell this is a high quality product. It's a citrusy, spicy, green chypre of the highest order. Mainly I get lemon and oakmoss with some aromatic herbs flitting about. Lavender is present along with geranium and sage and there is a definite musk about as well. Performance is its downside but is isn't all that bad. My old bottle is pressurized and sprays a bit haphazardly but the juice inside seems to be beautifully preserved. I don't know how this compares to the 2014 version but I can't imagine this would benefit by losing the very present oakmoss. But maybe they've found a decent substitute? Probably though they just dialed up the patchouli and are content that nobody will complain.)

 

[Jean-Sté]

I haven’t a horse in the race myself: there are perfumes from many countries I hold in equally high (or equally low) esteem. I’ve just never heard anyone from anywhere—even Italy—imply that French perfumery was less “pure class” than Italian.

I do believe many vintage Italian perfumes are more classy than some French ones. But that's only my opinion.

 

[Ali AD]

 

[speedyrabbit]

BOOM

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

Montana Parfum d'Homme - The cinnamon, spices, woods, and leather would encapsulate the color of brown.

 

[hednic]

SOTE: Racer by Pacoma

 

[CookBot]

Original Lolita Lempicka EDP (1997) by Annick Menardo

Still weird, and feels stranger with every passing year. Licorice and ivy leaves and cherries.

 

[Ken_Russell]

The meanwhile discontinued Trussardi Jeans Men

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

Chanel Egoiste Cologne Concentree

 

[PStoller]

SOTN: Cardinal - Chypre

A yummy mossy-soapy chypre. Several online sources* put this at 1954, which is off by roughly two decades, given this ad from December 1933 and others from 1934:



Ads for Cardinal Chypre ran through 1948. Chances are it was discontinued by 1954, although Cardinal Perfumes continued advertising into the early 1960s, and perhaps later: there were Cardinal Perfumes advertised for little girls in the 1970s which may or may not have been the same company.

*It’s hard to determine which source leads and which ones follow, but I believe Perfume Intelligence is taken at face value by some other online perfume sites, when, while broadly useful, it’s something less than authoritative.

 

[Puma]

ACACIOSA by Caron, extrait de parfum

 

[speedyrabbit]

BOOM

 

[Avecesar]

 

[Jean-Sté]

E & T, Elephant & Tower. 1977.

Layering after-shave with eau de toilette. The after-shave is dry and bitter. Not unpleasant at all.

 

[perfaddict]

Antaeus - Chanel

 

[JON RODGERS]

 

[Professor Value]

Back to this for my #SOTM 💙👖 to determine whether I need a backup bottle. 🤔

ORIGINAL DENIM

 

[WarmJewel]

Guerlain Coriolan, Eau de Toilette.

 

[nosey74]

View attachment 327021

SOTN: Cardinal - Chypre

A yummy mossy-soapy chypre. Several online sources* put this at 1954, which is off by roughly two decades, given this ad from December 1933 and others from 1934:

View attachment 327036

Ads for Cardinal Chypre ran through 1948. Chances are it was discontinued by 1954, although Cardinal Perfumes continued advertising into the early 1960s, and perhaps later: there were Cardinal Perfumes advertised for little girls in the 1970s which may or may not have been the same company.

*It’s hard to determine which source leads and which ones follow, but I believe Perfume Intelligence is taken at face value by some other online perfume sites, when, while broadly useful, it’s something less than authoritative.

What is “claridge”? Is that clary sage? I found a geranium plant associated with the name claridge but not sure.

 

[CookBot]

SOTN: Cardinal - Chypre

A yummy mossy-soapy chypre. Several online sources* put this at 1954, which is off by roughly two decades, given this ad from December 1933 and others from 1934:

Fifteen cents in 1934 would equate to $3.42 in 2023, so even though it says "small bottles", still a bargain even if it was a sample size. The last 2ml sample I bought cost me $5.50.

 

[Redfish365]

Moods Uomo by Krizia (1989)
(Very often this reminds me of Givenchy Gentleman (1974) and I know others get Giorgio For Men or Giorgio for Men VIP but mostly it's its own thing. Still reasonably priced for a vintage 80s dare I say powerhouse? It's very well assembled and pretty classy. A good buy in my opinion.)

 

[Oviatt]

Nothing at all for me this weekend--I am at a field trial (for spaniels, Cockers and Springers) and you don't want anything to distract the dogs from scenting the birds. When I come home this evening I will make up for it with something fabulous.

 

[Professor Value]

Moods Uomo by Krizia (1989)
(Very often this reminds me of Givenchy Gentleman (1974) and I know others get Giorgio For Men or Giorgio for Men VIP but mostly it's its own thing. Still reasonably priced for a vintage 80s dare I say powerhouse? It's very well assembled and pretty classy. A good buy in my opinion.)

View attachment 327080

I had a mini bottle once, really liked it, and was considering going full sized but it did remind me of something already in my collection so I left it be. Smalto, Borsolino, Kipling, Enrico Coveri, I can't specifically remember.

 

[Diddy]

SOTD is Santal Imperial by Creed.

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

Balenciaga Pour Homme

 

[hednic]

SOTE: Bandit Light Pour Homme by Robert Piguet

 

[PStoller]

What is “claridge”? Is that clary sage? I found a geranium plant associated with the name claridge but not sure.

“Claridge” was Cardinal’s name for what they called a “Shalimar-type” perfume. Why, I have no idea. I believe it was renamed “Orient” in 1936.

Fifteen cents in 1934 would equate to $3.42 in 2023, so even though it says "small bottles", still a bargain even if it was a sample size. The last 2ml sample I bought cost me $5.50.

It was for 2.5 drams, which is a little over 9 ml, so a good deal indeed—but if you held out long enough, prices dropped even lower. Clearly, these were drugstore cheapies of the Depression and beyond.

 

[Tea_Lilly]

My #SOTD 🖤
Wife likes it. 😉

BLACK SUEDE

View attachment 326942

My late husband really liked it and I thought it smelled nice on him.

 

[Tea_Lilly]

Vintage Scoundrel by Revlon from a mini. Aldehydes, bitter, green sappy artemisia, some sweetness (fruit) and florals in the background to tone down the sharpness. On open, it reminded me of taking a weed whacker to the overgrowth on a right-of-way, but it was joined by the florals so that is not a fair description at this point.
I like it but do not love it, so a fb is not in my future. It is an interesting transition from the 70's sharp greens to the 80's floral powerhouses that works and I find that neat. The unabashed bitterness in the opening of a feminine marketed perfume was unexpected and I enjoyed that as well.

We'll see how this develops as the evening progresses

Edit: It dried down to a fruit scent that wasn't cloying but quite sweet.

 

[Pheusinger]

Jean Paul Gaultier - Le Mâle cologne

Le Mâle perfume information, consumer reviews, where to buy, perfume notes and more... Le Mâle is a men's fragrance launched in 1995 by Jean Paul Gaultier

basenotes.com

 

[Ken_Russell]

Daniel Hechter XXL

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

Guerlain Heritage EDT

 

[nosey74]

SOTD	SOTN

 

[Monsieur Montana]

I was offered a bottle by a trustable seller: What should I expect from Phileas? Resembles any other old school fragrance?

Goes in the same direction with Yatagan but still different.

 

[Jean-Sté]

L'Uomo R, Roberta di Camerino. 1993.

Layering after-shave with eau de toilette. The after-shave immediately reminds me some perfumes from the 70s, and not the least of them: Équipage or Monsieur Rochas ! The soothing quality of the after-shave is top, too. More to come in a couple of hours with the eau de toilette.

EDIT the eau de toilette is very nice ! Èquipage is the first perfume that comes to my mind.

 

[perfaddict]

Monsieur de Givenchy

 

[JON RODGERS]

 

[Avecesar]