Vintage SOTD Thread for December 2022

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Redfish365

Basenotes Dependent
May 5, 2021
Marbert Gentleman by Marbert.
(This beauty has been on my wantlist for a couple of years now. After only occasionally spotting little 5ml bottles which don't generally do it for me I did spy one larger bottle at a seemingly reasonable price with one little issue - it was in the Ukraine. Even without the current territorial dispute with Russia I tend to shy away from transactions with Eastern Europe based upon personal experience. But after a year without seeing another bottle (besides one ridiculously overpriced example from another Eastern European country) I finally could take it no more and negotiated a slightly better price from Ukraine. It arrived in about 2 weeks to my great joy.
The smell was just as I'd hoped it would be. An initial strong resemblance to Rogue's Chypre Siam greeted me. It's a pretty strong fragrance, opening a bit heavy but lightening up somewhat as it progressed. It's a green smell with notable lemon, bergamot, galbanum, aldehydes and tarragon up top. All the while a civet and patchouli paint the background. In the middle it becomes a bit woody with cypress and cedar and vetiver among florals from rose, geranium and jasmine.
In the base there's a light castoreum leather note along with moss, musk, frankincense and labdanum.
I really love this stuff and wonder if the newer and more accessible version in the blocky, rectangular bottle is similar? I've heard strong arguments both ways. I tend to think it probably isn't up to the quality of this version however I will say that thus far the house of Marbert has never let me down. I may have to take a chance on that later version at some point because I've kinda gotta know...)

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hednic

Basenotes Institution
Oct 25, 2007
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Excellent vintage selection!
 

nosey74

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 30, 2014
What's the Hechter like?

I certainly know the brand, I have some Daniel Hechter clothes from the 80's but not familiar with this fragrance.
I’m going to go with Basenoter Colbourne’s review of this:


To me, this is an atypical, unusual, unique but very pleasant take on a clean fresh barbershop type fragrance. The opening is kind of a lot but it mellows out very nicely shortly after application.
 
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