Vintage SOTD Thread for December 2022

[hednic]

AZZARO POUR HOMME

Good vintage choice!

 

[JON RODGERS]

 

[speedyrabbit]

BOOM

 

[Bavard]

Some days Fahrenheit can hit the spot.

These are my two 30 Avenue Hoche bottles. The 1991 spray is 98% the same as the splash - good enough based on today’s side-by-side sampling.

To me, it smells like the switch to 33 Avenue Hoche coincided with an increase in iso-e-super which made it slightly less classic or old-school smelling. But just a tiny bit different. The bottles I’ve tried form 1992 to 1999 smelled the same to me (and 95% the same as the splash).

 

[CookBot]

To me, it smells like the switch to 33 Avenue Hoche coincided with an increase in iso-e-super which made it slightly less classic or old-school smelling. But just a tiny bit different. The bottles I’ve tried form 1992 to 1999 smelled the same to me (and 95% the same as the splash).

Would you say that you notice more of the petrol smell in one or the other?

I've always thought I would like Fahrenheit more if only it had less of that gasoline note.

 

[Z_LiDs]

 

[WarmJewel]

To me, it smells like the switch to 33 Avenue Hoche coincided with an increase in iso-e-super which made it slightly less classic or old-school smelling.

Wasnt that around the time of the major IFRA reformulations? 1990/1?

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

Dior Jules

 

[Bavard]

Would you say that you notice more of the petrol smell in one or the other?

I've always thought I would like Fahrenheit more if only it had less of that gasoline note.

I have to stretch my imagination these days to get the petrol note. I get more of what I think Dior called the "barrel" note. For the barrel note, this older stuff is better, I would say. I think maybe the later versions with more iso-e-super/less barrel note made it more of a hit.

Wasnt that around the time of the major IFRA reformulations? 1990/1?

I'm not sure / not knowledgeable about IFRA, but I can be obsessive about Fahrenheit. I think the change in address happened during 1992 (I think I've seen 30 and 33 Hoche with 1992 batch codes). The little (i.e., 50 ml) Fahrenheit spray I have from 1992 (33 Avenue Hoche) just isn't the same as the 30 Avenue Hoche splash. Close.

The 1991 spray is my most recent bottle, and I think it's close enough to the splash to count in my mind as the same thing.

 

[hednic]

SOTE: Hadrien Absolu by Annick Goutal

 

[PStoller]

Do you know when It was released? The real "Bleu" ?

According to Parfumo, both Bleu de France and Bleu de France pour Homme were issued in 1979. I have no idea how that date was determined, but it seems more plausible than Fragrantica’s 1960.

 

[Ken_Russell]

First edition Guerlain Heritage in its EDT concentration

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

Patou Pour Homme

 

[hednic]

First edition Guerlain Heritage in its EDT concentration

The best IMO.

 

[Toxicon]

Finally dipped into a vintage mini of Fendi Uomo I picked up in a trade. This stuff is wild! Sniffing the cap does it no justice - on skin this thing is rich, spicy, animalic, dark, leathery, loud but easy to wear. I get whiffs of Antaeus, Pierre Cardin Pour Monsieur, and even HdP 1740 all rolled into a single 80s powerhouse leather chypre. Gorgeous stuff. I don’t even want to know how much a full bottle costs.

 

[Varanis Ridari]

Lomani pour Homme (1987)

A fascinating derivation of the 80's fresh fougère DNA began with Drakkar Noir in 1982.

This moves in more lemon verbena and tossed in a sharper almost chypre feel, removing much of the soapiness up top and smokiness in the base completely out.

There's a bit of incense vibe here too in the base not found in most fragrances of this type, and it feels more natural for it, despite clearly being much cheaper than most competitors.

Just so odd, but also enjoyable.

 

[PStoller]

SOTE: Coryse Salomé - Epilogue EdC

This is a light, aldehydic floral chypre with a faint citrus tinge in the opening and a gauzy musk-forward, gently patchouli-sweetened base. I have little doubt that the parfum would have more heft, but the effervescence of the EdC is still appealing, if rather ephemeral. Why "Epilogue," I have no idea, as whatever this has the air of, it isn't finality.

 

[speedyrabbit]

BOOM.

 

[Jean-Sté]

View attachment 316624

Lomani pour Homme (1987)

A fascinating derivation of the 80's fresh fougère DNA began with Drakkar Noir in 1982.

This moves in more lemon verbena and tossed in a sharper almost chypre feel, removing much of the soapiness up top and smokiness in the base completely out.

There's a bit of incense vibe here too in the base not found in most fragrances of this type, and it feels more natural for it, despite clearly being much cheaper than most competitors.

Just so odd, but also enjoyable.

I'd like to like this one, but it has a kind of metallic note, or salty note or something like that...I can't wear it. I'm not a big fan of Drakkar Noir either; this may explain that.

 

[Jean-Sté]

Captain Molyneux, Molyneux. 1975.

Layering after-shave with eau de toilette.

How is it possible for such a good scent to have such a poor longevity ?

 

[aero58]

Captain Molyneux, Molyneux. 1975.


How is it possible for such a good scent to have such a poor longevity ?

I know exactly what you mean. I have to spray it on my shirt to achieve any semblance of longevity.

 

[WarmJewel]

I don’t even want to know how much a full bottle costs.

Not that bad from what I've seen. Fendi Uomo isn't a fragrance I know as I've never tried it, but from my 'browsing's' it's around standard £1 per ml for the vintage version.

 

[WarmJewel]

Christian Dior Jules, Eau de Toilette.

 

[Bavard]

Gucci Pour Homme is back.

I can go back and forth with this from “Wow, this is perfect,” to “Hmm, I think I need something more exciting.”

 

[cologne connoisseur]

Wall Street

 

[Ali AD]

 

[JON RODGERS]

 

[aero58]

Chanel Antaeus

 

[perfaddict]

Kouros Fraicheur

 

[Redfish365]

Gomma by Etro.
(A "kinder, gentler" Knize Ten I've heard. Also a combination of Knize Ten and Tabac Blond. Pretty high praise for a floral leather, no?
To my nose it opens with a bitter lemon and artemisia and the everpresent leather. There is a rubbery edge to this leather, hence the name Gomma. But the rubber isn't sickening or artificial. Also present are a cinnamon and clove one-two and a somewhat dirty jasmine.
The base is amber combining with the leather and luckily there is nary a vanilla smelling molecule to be sensed! The amber is a bit powdery but not overly so. Nor is it too sweet.
A note listing I stumbled across somewhere reads:

Top
Bergamot Lemon Tarragon Caraway Artemisia Lavender
Heart
Rose Jasmine Ylang Ylang Cloves
Base
Birch Sandalwood Patchouli Cedarwood Vetiver Vanilla

it must be a very small microdot of that vanilla. The perfect amount!
All told an interesting and mysterious fragrance whose rubbery smell is nothing to be afraid of.)

 

[hednic]

Christian Dior Jules, Eau de Toilette.

Wonderful vintage choice!

 

[Z_LiDs]

SOTE

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

Chanel Egoiste EDT

 

[Ken_Russell]

Sandalwood by Crabtree&Evelyn

 

[hednic]

SOTE: No. 1 Imperial by Clive Christian

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

Chanel Antaeus for the last SOTD of 2022

 

[Tea_Lilly]

SOTE: Coryse Salomé - Epilogue EdC

This is a light, aldehydic floral chypre with a faint citrus tinge in the opening and a gauzy musk-forward, gently patchouli-sweetened base. I have little doubt that the parfum would have more heft, but the effervescence of the EdC is still appealing, if rather ephemeral. Why "Epilogue," I have no idea, as whatever this has the air of, it isn't finality.

Thanks!

 

[nosey74]

 

[PStoller]

SOTE: Etro - Messe de Minuit EdC

With a grateful shoutout to @PerfumePorMoi for answering my Marketplace Wanted ad.

 

[speedyrabbit]

BOOM