Vintage Fragrance I Bought Today - 2022

Jul 9, 2021
Thanks God, I was prudent enough to blind buy just a 50ml bottle!

Don't care about it, It's just a hobbist trying to describe what he feels while smelling it (and failing miserably)! :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::LOL:
In fact, I smell something like a smoking patchouli surrounded by a frozen accord, bordering a minty sensation.
Yeh, I think I understand what you mean with the frozen bit. It's a stubborn scent, and preposterous, sort of, in its insistence.
The minty sensation you mention is quite important I think. To me it's the path to an herbal and coniferous crack where the light flows into this fragrance, wich otherwise could be perceived as rather obnoxious.
 
Jul 9, 2021
Have not heard of this one but wow what an interesting bottle! It's like it has a mouth carved into the side of it and then uneven base. Were they marketing this as a challenging or creative scent? Or was the designer just smoking too much???
Not sure of which of the ones you mean, I think you are pondering on the Guarnera. Well frankly, no idea. Design in the sixties and seventies, as I have come to understand, were seeking a new aestheticism from a brutalistic viewpoint, further developing the functionality of the interwar period. Maybe someone more erudite could fill in. I'm not of much use here, I'm afraid.🙂

As for the Italians, I know even less. For me, growing up in a rather forlorn and isolated Swedish medium-sized Swedish city/town in the '70s and '80s, Italy, France and to some extent the whole of the Mediterranean bassin meant culture on an unprecedented level. It exercised an exotic and yearnful pull from the oftentimes dreary and dull, and in all earnest, highly parochial community that my birthplace to the largest extent still is.

Maybe he he just experienced a lysergic emanation that had to be articulated somehow.😄
 

Jean-Sté

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jan 1, 2021
Oh my goodness, Jean!! Please tell me about these Cayenne and Mitos. They 've been on my radar for a long time and I can't decide if I take the risk...
Homme de Cayenne, when I smelled it directly from the bottle, immediately reminded me two scents:

1/ Opinion by Hanorah

2/ Paco Rabanne pour Homme

And Homme de Cayenne smells great ! (I didn't spray Mitos yet, so I can't tell.)

It's the first time I 'm able to describe one scent with two others. I'll report after wearing, because more ore less often, the scent doesn't smell exactly the same just by smelling it, or by wearing it. I'll do the same with Mitos, too !
 

Ali AD

Super Member
Nov 26, 2017
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PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Both were made in Spain, according to what is written on the boxes:

Yacaré : Margaret Astor S.A, Barcelona, made in Spain

Yacaré2 : Beecham Cosmetics S.A, Barcelona, made in Spain

Beecham owned Astor from 1965–1990. The first Yacaré is from 1977, so the change in labeling from Astor to Beecham probably reflected an internal reorganization.
 

Jean-Sté

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jan 1, 2021
Beecham owned Astor from 1965–1990. The first Yacaré is from 1977, so the change in labeling from Astor to Beecham probably reflected an internal reorganization.
Thanks, as always. Some sites claim that the first Yacaré was launched in 1981; can you please tell us more about that difference ?
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Some sites claim that the first Yacaré was launched in 1981; can you please tell us more about that difference ?

It could be 1981: secondary sources differ, and nobody cites a primary source. The only trademark registration I’ve seen was dated 1984, and that’s not definitive as a first usage.
 
Jul 9, 2021
20221004_142459.jpg
A tester of Lancetti Monsieur (1995). I had hoped for an older bottle but it seems to be from 2003 (batchnr.: 036261X, I haven’t been able to track this down, so if anyone knows anything about this, feel free to leave a comment), and lists « muschio di albero » as well as an unspecific « muschio » on the bottle (no box). Very dry and perhaps a little short of flesh. The composition is otherwise a great one, so that’s a pity. For the warmer season.
20221004_142214.jpg
This has a UTIF sticker underneath and is an « atomiseur naturel », which later was changed to « vaporisateur ». So this is an eighties-bottle most likely. What confuses me some, is that I have a blue-cap, late nineties-bottle which is more resinous and leathery than this, which is more on the fresh side. That one is also a tad darker in colour than this. If anyone has any theory of why that might be, he or she is welcome to share their thoughts. To me, differences in storage might be the most likely explanation.
20221004_142643.jpg
This was a pleasant surprise. I thought I was buying a 3rd formulation (different picture in the ad), but it is actually a pre-barcode, UTIF-marked 2nd generation bottle. The batch-code on package and bottle is « 9K01 », which translates into October 1989, to the best of my knowledge (Godspeed to the writer of PRpH vintage buying guide, @Martin_UK !). Plenty of moss in this one thus, it smells wonderful to me!

Two aftershaves:
20221004_142011.jpg
This is some dude! I love it, pity about the lousy paint. The juice is, however, correct!
20221004_141549.jpg
I’m saving the best to the last! Even though this is merely an aftershave, it smells very, very nice and is quite strong too. It is, believe me or not, in great condition, as far as I can tell. The difference between the oakmoss in this and the Lancetti, containing mostly treemoss (and less of any moss at all), gets very salient here and of course also with the Paco.
 
Jul 9, 2021
Congrats on this acquisition! Enjoy!
Thanks, hednic!
A prominent, soft, green and damp moss in this, with foresthoney, some lavender and flowery soap. The moss is of the same type as in Etienne Aigner N° 2, to my unreliable mind. Someone tried to liken the feel of moss with silkworms(!), ha ha. Maybe that analogue is not horribly out of place?😀
 

rybot

Basenotes Junkie
Nov 21, 2012
I bought the lancetti myself recently - will double check on the batch and manufacturer. It brought to mind immediately Lanvin for men and Dunhill 1934 - at least in part!
 
Jul 9, 2021
I bought the lancetti myself recently - will double check on the batch and manufacturer. It brought to mind immediately Lanvin for men and Dunhill 1934 - at least in part!
I haven't been so lucky to try the Lanvin. But the Lancetti has some staying power, for sure. It has a better drydown than the initial stage forebode, even though it cannot compete with the naturalness and presence of the deep vintages - e.g. the Capucci, whose drydown is wonderful.
 

rybot

Basenotes Junkie
Nov 21, 2012
I haven't been so lucky to try the Lanvin. But the Lancetti has some staying power, for sure. It has a better drydown than the initial stage forebode, even though it cannot compete with the naturalness and presence of the deep vintages - e.g. the Capucci, whose drydown is wonderful.
I have a vintage of the capucci as well (maddening with the many package variations!). Huge fan!

Also owning the Jourdan and a second gen Paco. Both excellent and superior to anything modern IMO, humbly.
 
Jul 9, 2021
20221005_132447.jpg
Arrived today. The Crown is a sealed bottle and the 50 ml Léonard was their last one, apparently (sometimes they say it's their last one, but a day later it reappears for a higher price). This is now (at the moment) only available in 200 ml splash from this Italian seller. I thought that I had to find out what it was all about. Leathery carnation, is my first impression. This and Jourdan un Homme, as well as a few others, will pack a punch in the near future.
 

rybot

Basenotes Junkie
Nov 21, 2012
Hello ! Those arrived yesterday. I've chosen to wait for the vintage version of Obsession; meanwhile, I picked the vintage after-shave. Concerning Maxim's, I've already the after-shave, so the combo is complete !

View attachment 303796

View attachment 303797
Love Maxims! Ticks all the right boxes for this vintage hound!


Looks like we have the same era Obsession; lowercase lettering and opaque cap. Very warm, amber spice. Hmmm I might have to dig this one out for the weekly rotation!
 

rybot

Basenotes Junkie
Nov 21, 2012
View attachment 303800
Arrived today. The Crown is a sealed bottle and the 50 ml Léonard was their last one, apparently (sometimes they say it's their last one, but a day later it reappears for a higher price). This is now (at the moment) only available in 200 ml splash from this Italian seller. I thought that I had to find out what it was all about. Leathery carnation, is my first impression. This and Jourdan un Homme, as well as a few others, will pack a punch in the near future.
Leonard Homme is so good! Leather in spades.


As an aside, my Lancetti Monsieur is Schiaparelli Pikenz. Batch code starts with "02". Side by side with Dunhill 1934 and Lanvin for men, less similar than my memory thought. Not as refined either. I agree with your assessment that it is a bit "blobby".
 

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