And here's a 1940 ad showing the sets for L'Aimant, Emeraude, L'Origan, and Paris.
I just read through the whole thread - wow, grayspoole, hats off to you. You have a wonderful writing style and a real passion for the historical aspects of the scents, which is highly informative and a total geek-fest for us here on BN.
The very first Coty that I smelled was a bottle of Chypre that I bought (blind) on eBay...
Wow these are absolutely stunning.Coty produced many gift sets over the years. I haven't found an ad with that specific box but here's a similar Emeraude set.
View attachment 105944
And a different style of set for Chypre.
View attachment 105942
And here's a 1940 ad showing the sets for L'Aimant, Emeraude, L'Origan, and Paris.
View attachment 105943
It would be very easy to get carried away into collecting these...(but not today Satan, not today)
WARNING: Vintage Geek Rant Begins Here
Now, if I could just shut up the irrational little voice - "Don't use those early vintages - save them until you are SURE you can commit them to memory, because if you use them up then they will be gone from your cabinet and from your head FOREVER when you want to compare them to something else, BUT if you don't use them you won't learn them, or enjoy them."
Thanks for hi lighting this great article. I have so much respect for the work of these present day perfumers - chemical archeologists really.There is a fascinating 2017 Basenotes article by Nick Gilbert about the recreation of L’Origan for a recent scent exhibition at Somerset House, London, curated by Claire Catterall and Lizzie Ostrom here:
Well, not finding much dating info on the gold crown bottles - rarely show up in ads or with boxes. Assumed they were Pfizer but just has Coty is printed on them.-
Yes, hurray to enjoyment!The latter argument wins for me every time. It's the enjoyment that clinches it.
Emeraude is still the only Coty I've tried.
Edit: Not true. I've also tried two versions of La Rose Jacqueminot. I liked it. I like vintage smelling fragrances, and I like roses.
Well, not finding much dating info on the gold crown bottles - rarely show up in ads or with boxes. Assumed they were Pfizer but just has Coty is printed on them.
Tested twice on opposing wrists - older EDT in the middle with EDP on the right. (haven't uncorked the little perfume that came as a set with the older EDT yet)...
Yes, hurray to enjoyment!
So what did you think of the Emeraude, and do you agree with the offspring that are commonly mentioned?
"Hamster wheel" is a nice way of characterizing this habit. It's a combination of conserving the precious, curation of olfactory art, anticipation of a near-religious experience, and hedonistic consumerism. I will soon be the owner of vintage Crepe de Chine and a little extrait of L'Origan with the round label. I attempted to purchase the EDT of L'Origan but the ebay seller can't seem to get the shipment to move, and is now not communicating. It's great to have your experience expanded with beauty, at the very least.
what did you think of the Emeraude, and do you agree with the offspring that are commonly mentioned?
Bavard: This smells like a 1920s release, in the realm of things like L'Heure Bleue, from 1912, and Shalimar, from 1925. This is the kind of perfume I expect to grow on me as I get to know it, as L'Heure Bleue did. This has a dark, woodsy, powdery vanilla smell, a real treat for smelling so historical, deep, and complex, yet smooth.
You certainly laid out all the points of obsession. The anticipation of fragrance delivery is expecially exciting, particularly with vintages. Sorry to hear about the L”Origan EDT - hope it gets back on track and pops up at your door. Both the Crepe de Chine extrait and the EDC are beautiful. In honor of your impending L’Origan extrait ownership I will bravely uncork my little bottle and give it a wear this week! Might do that with some other Cotys I’ve been waffling about as well. Please share what you think about the L’Origan.
This little beauty just arrived, and I love it! More than L'Aimant, although they share some dna...love the clovey, medicinal aspect. I definitely get the peach (an apple-like peach), blended with florals. There is a face powder/makeup note as it dries that resembles almond biscotti. I'm already wearing something else, so not giving it the full skin review. Dammit, still haven't mastered editing for images on this interface...
L'Origan has gone viral!
I think the pic looks fine. Very nice bottle! Is it Friday already? I was going to uncork my dram of L'Origan this week but got distracted by other fragrances. I'm definitely going to wear it for my vintage SOTD tomorrow. What you have described in your perfume so far sounds familiar to the EDT I've tried.
I'm just learning these Coty vintages so I'm loving all the history and the notes about these fragrances.
I'm still making my way through all the links of information in the thread so far but I'm looking forward to more discussion from the BN vintigistas, and even feeling fine about my guilty pleasure yard sale find of Lady Stetson.
Considering his marketing approach I'd have to think Coty would be proud. Do you think Coty could ever envision L'Origan being talked about (and actually floating in the atmosphere) in 2019? Amazing!
L'Origan and L'Heure Bleue is probably more removed from each other compared to the former two pairing, with L'Heure Bleue taking the almond-y heliotrope-tonka-orange blossom core of L'Origan and rendering it more polished with the addition of signature Guerlinade. But in this case, I much prefer the seemingly more crude L'Origan, with its heavy dose of spicy clove (probably the Diathine base?) providing a more vivid contrast to the more delicate herbal sweetness of violet (a base of ionone if I remember correctly) and the creamy, enveloping almond-y heliotrope-tonka-orange blossom heart.
Resistance is futile, sir. Can't wait to hear what you think of the parfum when you get it.
Here's a quirky, surrealist L'Origan ad from 1940 with a large femme fatale taking aim. The L'Origan ad taglines were usually "The Golden" or. "For Your Golden Moments."
View attachment 107724
I received a L'Origan EdT today, probably 50s era, and the spices are very prominent; almost like clove oil but with nutmeg softening. Beautiful interplay between the two and the spice note lasts all the way through. Orange blossom is very dim, but the floral violet/heliotrope and tonka are even softer than in the parfum. My little parfum version has a very definite peach/orange blossom opening on a bed of spice, then turning to almond powder. In love with this scent; one of the greats, even if not as thrilling and evocative as L'HB. Wish I had the budget of some on this board to sample all the vintage Cotys.
I agree with these notes on L'Origan edt. I get clove and it's not as involved as L'Heure Bleue, but I imagine most L'Heure Bleue fans, such as myself, would like it. It is so agreeable.
Someone in the reviews mentioned civet, and that would help explain why I like it so much. This edt mini is an inexpensive way to try some nice, animalic (and powdery) vintage.
Although the comparison with LHB is seemingly inevitable, the more I wear these perfumes, the more different they seem. Of course, any comparisons will vary depending on which versions/formulations you are testing. My LHB extract from 1960-67 has an almost shocking amount of civet, which is completely absent in the pâtisserie of my newer, circa 2000 LHB.
I’m completely captivated by the dry down of L’Origan. Without the heavier vanillin of the Guerlain, the Coty perfume weaves a more subtle, complex spell of nitromusks, lingering floral notes, and civet. The notes seem to flicker in and out of my perception. I believe Coty did not appreciate the Guerlain vanillin. I wonder if Coty’s use of natural tinctures, as reported by Coifan and others, along with more typical, heavier perfume ingredients, provides this rich but transparent quality to the composition.
I like Guerlain vanilla. Chanel used a variation on it for the original Pour Monsieur Concentree. I've stocked up on that and Habit Rouge, and I have a smattering of other Guerlains to sample when the mood strikes. I'm a fan, but I don't miss the vanilla when it's not there, in this case, at least.
I don’t know this with certainty, just from gazing at vintage ads, but I think these bottles date from the 1960’s-70’s. The bottles with the gold embossed labels (like the one on the left) are older. I look forward to hearing what you think.
Rose Jacqueminot (1904)
Muguet de Bois (1913)