Vetiver Wednesdays Sync: an invitation to a magical journey

N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer

Retired
Basenotes Plus
Jul 1, 2011
Guerlain Vetiver
il_1588xN.3471795367_a4rs.jpg
 

Toxicon

Basenotes Dependent
May 29, 2021
Once again wearing Parfum d'Empire - Vetiver Bourbon. I'm convinced this has no top notes besides the core vetiver accord, which makes it feel deceptively quiet, even as it stays at the same volume and pitch for hours. Weak projection but impressive longevity makes this a great work scent, despite the inherent unfriendliness of the earthy, musty, and sharp central vetiver accord. Part of me wishes it was a little bit louder, but I suppose I have Route du Vetiver for that.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Reunion used to produce 25 tons of Bourbon vetiver essence annually, but in the past 30 years that number has fallen to 45 kilos. (Sidenote: Reunion also produces a variety of coffee called Bourbon Pointu that has 40% less caffeine than other arabica varietals.)

Clearly, they’re getting rid of the wrong crop.
 

Toxicon

Basenotes Dependent
May 29, 2021
The PdE is all that Toxi claimed -- straight vetiver, from top to toes. Strong, pure, and farm-like, it feels very much like a Corticchiato creation. The MH is also fairly minimalist, but much less "raw" and more perfumey, landing on a bed of patchouli and oakmoss. Side by side, I believe even a non-perfumista would think they were composed of different materials. Even though the PdE is an intriguing experience, I think if I had to pick one to own as a perfume, I might go with the Miller Harris.
Yeah, I'd almost say the PdE wears more like a high quality essential oil than an actual perfume. I'm sure there's some thoughtful composition that lets it wear the way it does - quiet but persistent - but from a marketing perspective, it's wild that something like the PdE even exists. I think most people would probably rather wear something like Guerlain, Givenchy, or even the Hiram Green, all of which wrap vetiver in a more palatable framework without downplaying the central note. PdE's Vetiver Bourbon feels like one for the vetiver freaks, just a bit restrained from the full-throated darkness of something like Route du Vetiver or Private Label. Still, I'm happy to own and wear it!
 

CookBot

Flâneuse
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
PdE's Vetiver Bourbon feels like one for the vetiver freaks, just a bit restrained from the full-throated darkness of something like Route du Vetiver or Private Label.

Very true. But it does feel absolutely like a Corticchiato creation, with all of his idiosyncratic style. He really loves his hay and grass accords, and nobody I know of handles them more purposefully. If I owned it, I'd probably only wear it at home, for myself, just as I do with my Route du Vetiver.

Clearly, they’re getting rid of the wrong crop.

Maybe, though I don't really feel qualified to judge that, since today was the first time I ever tried to pay attention to the differences between Haitian and Bourbon vetivers. With more experience I might find Bourbon to be the superior variety, but I don't know enough yet to have an informed opinion.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Maybe, though I don't really feel qualified to judge that, since today was the first time I ever tried to pay attention to the differences between Haitian and Bourbon vetivers. With more experience I might find Bourbon to be the superior variety, but I don't know enough yet to have an informed opinion.

I was referring to the caffeine-deficient coffee.
 

IsoESuperman

People of Zee Wurl, Relax
Basenotes Plus
Dec 30, 2015
Tardy to post but on Wednesday I went with Lorenzo Villoresi Vetiver in the morning and Dia Man in the evening.

I hadn't worn Dia in a while, it's as good as ever. It's only obvious as a vetiver later in the wear but it's one hell of a perfume. I love that the opening someone manages to be crisp/fresh, ambery, super floral, and slightly powdery all at the same time. I'm almost through a 60ml decant with a 100ml backup bottle waiting in the wings. One of only a couple of backups that I haven't sold, knowing that it will actually be needed (unlike the many that went).
The PdE is all that Toxi claimed -- straight vetiver, from top to toes. Strong, pure, and farm-like, it feels very much like a Corticchiato creation. The MH is also fairly minimalist, but much less "raw" and more perfumey, landing on a bed of patchouli and oakmoss. Side by side, I believe even a non-perfumista would think they were composed of different materials. Even though the PdE is an intriguing experience, I think if I had to pick one to own as a perfume, I might go with the Miller Harris.
Wearing them side-by-side is fun. Same name, but very different perfumes. On my spectrum of vetiver rawness, I think the MH feels more raw/earthy, but that's definitely because the vetiver is paired with moss and patch - they make an earthy even more earthy. The Pd'E is certainly focused more on vetiver, in the sense that it highlights it, but I find it has a more sleek, modern, classy feel than the MH. More of a complete, nuanced perfume than the MH.

I'm not a perfumer and am totally unqualified to make any definitive statements on the matter, but if I had to guess, the Pd'E has a good slug of some kind of ambrox-type material in it, as well as one of the less ambery/more woody woody-amber ACs in it. They're used deftly, in typical Corticchiato fashion, and I think the scent is better for it. The stuff also lasts forever on my skin, adding to my materials suspicions.
 

Toxicon

Basenotes Dependent
May 29, 2021
My new bottle of Jovoy Private Label arrived today... gave a quick pre-sync blast on a test strip, and it's as gnarly and vetiver-forward as I remember, though I'm noticing the papyrus and labdanum a bit more than I did in my original decant a couple years back. Entirely possible my nose is just better attuned to those notes nowadays, but it smells surprisingly well balanced despite the intensity.

Now the real question: can I get away with wearing this to work tomorrow??
 

sagebrush

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 20, 2017
Joining the Synch this week with Etro Palais Jamais.
Liquid, green, mysteriously rubbery-dusty vetiver, with the dry bite of oakmoss in the base.
Did I say green ? Even the juice is green.

HEAD NOTE
Mandarin Orange, Bergamot, Lemon, Coriander, Cardamom
HEART NOTE
Arabian Jasmine, Palmarosa, Paraguay Petitgrain, Matè Absolute, Pepper, Birch Wood
BASE NOTE
Vetiver, Oakmoss, Clary Sage


26121248-4656-j
 

Tourtiere

New member
May 13, 2023
Recommend me a Vetiver, please.

I have Sycomore and it's in my top five favourite fragrances, but too expensive for me to wear every day.

I have smelled Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire and find it to be simple and lovely, but also expensive.

I had a bottle of Guerlain Vetiver (from 2009) and loved the top-note but found the dry-down very aggressive and cleaning-product-y. Considering how beloved this fragrance is, I am curious as to whether or not this was a feature of the 2009-era of this fragrance? I adore all my other Guerlain fragrances.

I have never tried Encre Noire, Vetyver, Yatagan (and I love and wear Caron Pour Un Homme and 3e Homme in equal measure), or anything else. I am not particular about masc or femme choices, I wear it all.

Thanks in advance.
 

HMan

Super Member
Mar 14, 2020
Recommend me a Vetiver, please.

I have Sycomore and it's in my top five favourite fragrances, but too expensive for me to wear every day.

I have smelled Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire and find it to be simple and lovely, but also expensive.

I had a bottle of Guerlain Vetiver (from 2009) and loved the top-note but found the dry-down very aggressive and cleaning-product-y. Considering how beloved this fragrance is, I am curious as to whether or not this was a feature of the 2009-era of this fragrance? I adore all my other Guerlain fragrances.

I have never tried Encre Noire, Vetyver, Yatagan (and I love and wear Caron Pour Un Homme and 3e Homme in equal measure), or anything else. I am not particular about masc or femme choices, I wear it all.

Thanks in advance.
If you like the Malle, Miller Harris Vetiver Insolent would be a great choice that you can find at discounted prices.
 

Latest News

Whatever your taste in perfume, we've got you covered...

catalogue your collection, keep track of your perfume wish-list, log your daily fragrance wears, review your latest finds, seek out long-lost scented loves, keep track of the latest perfume news, find your new favourite fragrance, and discuss perfume with like-minded people from all over the world...

Top
pp