Vetiver Wednesdays Sync: an invitation to a magical journey

N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer

Retired
Basenotes Plus
Jul 1, 2011
Syncing with Guerlain Vetiver EDT
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HMan

Super Member
Mar 14, 2020
A day late, and more than a few dollars short, after dropping on this.

The opening really startled me, not what I was expecting, very 'earthy'. Going into the mid phases now though, it's a stunner!

On first blush, I'll disagree with the reviews calling this nothing new. For me it has Parfum d'Empire written all over it, especially with that opening.
Feels like it's going to need a few wears to start to fully grock.


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BTW, and not sure this is cool to mention here, but European buyers, I got this from Beautinow.nl at a great price.
 

IsoESuperman

People of Zee Wurl, Relax
Basenotes Plus
Dec 30, 2015
When you double up, what's your approach? One on each arm? Layered?
If I put both on at the same time, I typically go one on the back the left hand and under the shirt, the other on the back of my right. This is my office mode and what I did yesterday.

Telework days are a free-for-all. Dior Homme on left shoulder of a hoodie, Azzaro pour Homme on the left sleeve cuff. Three different vetivers on the right arm. All while there’s some floral chypre sample on my right hand, etc.

An undignified mess? Maybe, but I enjoy it and I can’t take ‘em with me!
 

CookBot

Flâneuse
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
Telework days are a free-for-all. Dior Homme on left shoulder of a hoodie, Azzaro pour Homme on the left sleeve cuff. Three different vetivers on the right arm. All while there’s some floral chypre sample on my right hand, etc.

An undignified mess? Maybe, but I enjoy it and I can’t take ‘em with me!

Egads! It's sheer chaos over there!

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IsoESuperman

People of Zee Wurl, Relax
Basenotes Plus
Dec 30, 2015
In the office today, no chaos. Perhaps the second or third to last wearing of my 3ml decant of the lovely Mark Buxton Emotional Rescue/Drop. I’ll miss it when it’s gone.

I do have a sample spray of Vetiverissimo in my center console, should I decide to run out to the parking lot and introduce minimum chaos.
 

Toxicon

Basenotes Dependent
May 29, 2021
Debuting the one and only Parfum d'Empire - Vetiver Bourbon today. Still getting my head around this one - smells very naturalistic, squarely focused on the vetiver, and the other notes (at least in the first half of the wear) are bit players acting in support of the central accord.

What's surprising me the most is that it feels quite a bit quieter on my skin than expected. I tend to have this experience with Parfum d'Empire - a few of their scents are quite strong, deep and resinous, and only need 1 or 2 sprays (thinking Wazamba, Aziyade, maybe Ambre Russe). Others feel extremely naturalistic but much lighter and short-lived, often requiring 3-5 sprays (Corsica Furiosa, Azemour Les Orangers, Mal-Aime). This feels like it might fall into the second camp (though it's possible my nose hasn't fully recovered from Covid).

In terms of the actual vetiver, I can see why this might be a kind of goldilocks vetiver for some folks. It has aspects of a lot of the big name "serious" vetiver fragrances, and strikes a very nice balance between them. There's definitely a facet of the deep, dark, earthy character of somethin gnarlier like MpG Route du Vetiver, but it doesn't go all the way, isn't nearly as strong or dank, and as a result seems a lot easier to wear. It also has some of the nuttiness I get from Givenchy Vetyver, although I think diehard Givenchy fans might still prefer the Givenchy if it's the smooth, acorn-brown, roasted chestnut vibe you're after. This has that aspect, but it also has quite a bit of sharp spiciness up front - reminiscent of the aggressive opening blast of Guerlain Vetiver, but with the "higher fidelity" photorealistic approach of something like Hiram Green's Vetiver. I think the supporting clove note (which isn't particularly discernible on its own) may be amplifying this aspect. In a way, this draws from all of these excellent predecessors and strikes a perfect midpoint... although the difference to my nose is Vetiver Bourbon really strikes me as more of a vetiver soliflore than any of them. I don't notice any opening citrus, or obvious spices, or supporting woods. It's vetiver, vetiver, vetiver, in all its weirdness - plantlike, grassy, a bit smoky, shrubby, earthy, even a touch leathery. I suspect I'll end up loving this, but we shall see!

Oddly enough, the marketing copy from the PdE website is spot-on: The plant by its roots: A materials-driven scent that exalts the primal nature of the precious essence. Here, vetiver owns up to its innate toughness. And even more: to its virility. True, it has anchored men’s fragrances for decades, but usually in a polite, urbane, toned-down form. In Vétiver Bourbon, Marc-Antoine Corticchiato unshackles it from its overly civilised manners to restore its native elegance. That of a material which, in its raw state, is a fragrance in itself, unique and contrasted.

VE%CC%81TIVER-BOURBON-fond-couleur-vertical.webp
 

Toxicon

Basenotes Dependent
May 29, 2021
Debuting the one and only Parfum d'Empire - Vetiver Bourbon today. Still getting my head around this one - smells very naturalistic, squarely focused on the vetiver, and the other notes (at least in the first half of the wear) are bit players acting in support of the central accord.

What's surprising me the most is that it feels quite a bit quieter on my skin than expected. I tend to have this experience with Parfum d'Empire - a few of their scents are quite strong, deep and resinous, and only need 1 or 2 sprays (thinking Wazamba, Aziyade, maybe Ambre Russe). Others feel extremely naturalistic but much lighter and short-lived, often requiring 3-5 sprays (Corsica Furiosa, Azemour Les Orangers, Mal-Aime). This feels like it might fall into the second camp (though it's possible my nose hasn't fully recovered from Covid).

In terms of the actual vetiver, I can see why this might be a kind of goldilocks vetiver for some folks. It has aspects of a lot of the big name "serious" vetiver fragrances, and strikes a very nice balance between them. There's definitely a facet of the deep, dark, earthy character of somethin gnarlier like MpG Route du Vetiver, but it doesn't go all the way, isn't nearly as strong or dank, and as a result seems a lot easier to wear. It also has some of the nuttiness I get from Givenchy Vetyver, although I think diehard Givenchy fans might still prefer the Givenchy if it's the smooth, acorn-brown, roasted chestnut vibe you're after. This has that aspect, but it also has quite a bit of sharp spiciness up front - reminiscent of the aggressive opening blast of Guerlain Vetiver, but with the "higher fidelity" photorealistic approach of something like Hiram Green's Vetiver. I think the supporting clove note (which isn't particularly discernible on its own) may be amplifying this aspect. In a way, this draws from all of these excellent predecessors and strikes a perfect midpoint... although the difference to my nose is Vetiver Bourbon really strikes me as more of a vetiver soliflore than any of them. I don't notice any opening citrus, or obvious spices, or supporting woods. It's vetiver, vetiver, vetiver, in all its weirdness - plantlike, grassy, a bit smoky, shrubby, earthy, even a touch leathery. I suspect I'll end up loving this, but we shall see!

Oddly enough, the marketing copy from the PdE website is spot-on: The plant by its roots: A materials-driven scent that exalts the primal nature of the precious essence. Here, vetiver owns up to its innate toughness. And even more: to its virility. True, it has anchored men’s fragrances for decades, but usually in a polite, urbane, toned-down form. In Vétiver Bourbon, Marc-Antoine Corticchiato unshackles it from its overly civilised manners to restore its native elegance. That of a material which, in its raw state, is a fragrance in itself, unique and contrasted.

VE%CC%81TIVER-BOURBON-fond-couleur-vertical.webp
Quick update on this one: performance is quite good. It’s still not loud, but it’s humming along 6 hours later just as strong as when I first sprayed. I guess I shouldn’t be surprised considering vetiver is a strong fixative, and here there’s not much besides vetiver! I’m guessing I can get stronger projection by spraying a bit heavier next time.

One last observation - this reminds me of Encre Noire more than I was expecting. It doesn’t have the same ISO E / industrial harshness, but I think it’s the structure more than anything - neither really has top notes, just a fairly linear dark, sharp, heart note that’s there from top to bottom. Encre Noire is basically a single accord of vetiver, cypress, and cedar all the way through; Vetiver Bourbon is just a multi-faceted vetiver note all the way through. But the actual vetiver shares some brief similarities. The PdE is obviously nicer, but this supports my theory that Encre Noire has a good amount of actual vetiver naturals in it (alongside the vetiveryl acetate, ISO E, and cashmeran).
 
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CookBot

Flâneuse
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
....Vetiver Bourbon [Parfum d'Empire] really strikes me as more of a vetiver soliflore than any of them. I don't notice any opening citrus, or obvious spices, or supporting woods. It's vetiver, vetiver, vetiver, in all its weirdness - plantlike, grassy, a bit smoky, shrubby, earthy, even a touch leathery. I suspect I'll end up loving this, but we shall see!
Through the kind offices of @IsoESuperman, I'm trying the Vetiver Bourbon from Parfum d'Empire that Toxicon described so well. Not only that, but I've got a whole different Vetiver Bourbon (from Miller Harris) on the other arm. And surprisingly, they're practically chalk & cheese.

The PdE is all that Toxi claimed -- straight vetiver, from top to toes. Strong, pure, and farm-like, it feels very much like a Corticchiato creation. The MH is also fairly minimalist, but much less "raw" and more perfumey, landing on a bed of patchouli and oakmoss. Side by side, I believe even a non-perfumista would think they were composed of different materials. Even though the PdE is an intriguing experience, I think if I had to pick one to own as a perfume, I might go with the Miller Harris.

Looking into these two expressions of vetiver, I learned more about the island of Reunion than I ever expected to know. Were you aware that the Bourbon variety of vetiver, once plentiful, has been almost completely overwhelmed by the much cheaper Haitian variety? Reunion used to produce 25 tons of Bourbon vetiver essence annually, but in the past 30 years that number has fallen to 45 kilos. (Sidenote: Reunion also produces a variety of coffee called Bourbon Pointu that has 40% less caffeine than other arabica varietals.)


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