Vetiver fragrances inventory: under-the-radar

Andy the frenchy

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2018
Chanel No.19 parfum is a hidden vetiver gem. Sublime trio of vetiver, galbanum and iris.

[...]
Has anyone mentioned Chanel No. 19? The parfum of No. 19 is my latest obsession and to me the dry down is all vetiver. [...]But it feels like the foundation of the parfum is a beautiful vetiver that lasts and lasts.

OK... you guys convinced me to try that one again. Fine. Or even worse: blind buy haha

Edit: I just checked Chanel website. No.19 parfum is available but at $210 for just 15ml, honestly, it's a hard pass for me.
 
Apr 27, 2020
Lucky you! Do you mean Vetyver (2003) with the green juice, or Vetyver Blanc (2011) in the clear bottle with black and white label?

CpH is simple, but stunning. And I agree that there is a vetiver edge in the drydown, but not one I'd called a vetiver-centric fragrance. My spice thread has already started, but not in a 'list' style, just a regular one: HERE you go! haha
Andy, apologies I should have been more specific! It is the new green juice from 2003, not Blanc or the OG from the 60s. Still available for a reasonable price on the 'bay it seems. Reviews on here seem to be so-so on this one and I can see why -- it doesn't do anything exotic or groundbreaking in the vetiver/citrus realm (something that IMO is pretty tough to do with stalwart competition like Guerlain, Givenchy, etc). Also, I haven't smelled the original Lanvin so I don't have that reference point. For me it's very pleasant, but I have simple tastes!

Agree on both the stunning and not-vetiver centric on the CpH. Thanks for the link, I'll go check it out!
 

Emanuel76

Well-known member
Jun 16, 2018
Veejaga - Hascish Homme (vintage here)

I wore it today.
The vetiver is pretty present.
It's way too fresh/citrusy/green/herbal for my taste. And the black pepper kills me. But maybe you'll like it.
Darvant and Collin Maillard praise it.
It's an obscure brand/perfume. So, the vintage bottle is quite affordable.


Top - Bergamot, Green Notes, Artemisia.
Explosion of tart, zingy, juicy/humid/succulent mix of citrus, strong green/herbal notes (artemisia, basil, tarragon), vetiver (you already feel its presence), two trucks of black pepper and a pale fruitiness aura, with vague sweetness.

Heart - Patchouli, Carnation, Geranium, Vetiver, Cedar, Rose, Jasmin.
The transition between the top notes and the middle notes is smooth. It's very well blended, and it has a slow development, so it seems like the top notes last forever (if you don't smell your wrist all the time).
Even here you will get some citrus vibe (from vetiver - stronger now, geranium, olibanum). It's still green/herbal (vetiver, flowers, patchouli, oakmoss). The black pepper it's also there, still very strong.
But now the mixture has dried out. It is no longer so juicy/wet/humid anymore.
It's woody from cedar, rooty/earthy from patchouly/vetiver, smoky from olibanum, leathery from castoreum, and a bit mossy/musky.
Yeah, I get some flowers, but I can't identify any in particular, except for a distant clove-cinnamon carnation.

Base - Leather, Moss, Musk, Olibanum, Castoreum.
DRY, leathery castoreum, mossy/musky (mild), smoky, peppery (strong), salty/mineralic.
It somehow reminds me of Black Tourmaline.
The sweetness is faint.
I get some mild resinous ambery sweetness (labdanum) only in the deep dry down (after 2-3 hours).

I love the dry down (the base).


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Toxicon

Well-known member
May 29, 2021
CpH is simple, but stunning. And I agree that there is a vetiver edge in the drydown, but not one I'd called a vetiver-centric fragrance. My spice thread has already started, but not in a 'list' style, just a regular one: HERE you go! haha

Agree with this take re: CpH. Phenomenal scent, and I picked up a bottle at your (and others') suggestion in another thread. Sharp, dry, intensely spiced, rugged but somehow clean. It makes me think of oiled bronze left in the sun. I do get the vetiver in the base, but the nutmeg is still the star, and I get more from the dry cedar and sandalwood than the vetiver note. But I have a recent bottle, so perhaps the balance is different.
 

Andy the frenchy

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2018
Andy, apologies I should have been more specific! It is the new green juice from 2003, not Blanc or the OG from the 60s. Still available for a reasonable price on the 'bay it seems. Reviews on here seem to be so-so on this one and I can see why -- it doesn't do anything exotic or groundbreaking in the vetiver/citrus realm (something that IMO is pretty tough to do with stalwart competition like Guerlain, Givenchy, etc). Also, I haven't smelled the original Lanvin so I don't have that reference point. For me it's very pleasant, but I have simple tastes!

Agree on both the stunning and not-vetiver centric on the CpH. Thanks for the link, I'll go check it out!

Good to know, thanks! If I have a chance to bump inot it, I'll give it a sniff!


Agree with this take re: CpH. Phenomenal scent, and I picked up a bottle at your (and others') suggestion in another thread. Sharp, dry, intensely spiced, rugged but somehow clean. It makes me think of oiled bronze left in the sun. I do get the vetiver in the base, but the nutmeg is still the star, and I get more from the dry cedar and sandalwood than the vetiver note. But I have a recent bottle, so perhaps the balance is different.

Glad that you love it! It's a really nice cheapie, indeed. (at list, it's still affordable, as of today - might want to get a backup haha).
 

Andy the frenchy

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2018
Veejaga - Hascish Homme (vintage here)

I wore it today.
The vetiver is pretty present.
It's way too fresh/citrusy/green/herbal for my taste. And the black pepper kills me. But maybe you'll like it.
Darvant and Collin Maillard praise it.
It's an obscure brand/perfume. So, the vintage bottle is quite affordable.


Top - Bergamot, Green Notes, Artemisia.
Explosion of tart, zingy, juicy/humid/succulent mix of citrus, strong green/herbal notes (artemisia, basil, tarragon), vetiver (you already feel its presence), two trucks of black pepper and a pale fruitiness aura, with vague sweetness.

Heart - Patchouli, Carnation, Geranium, Vetiver, Cedar, Rose, Jasmin.
The transition between the top notes and the middle notes is smooth. It's very well blended, and it has a slow development, so it seems like the top notes last forever (if you don't smell your wrist all the time).
Even here you will get some citrus vibe (from vetiver - stronger now, geranium, olibanum). It's still green/herbal (vetiver, flowers, patchouli, oakmoss). The black pepper it's also there, still very strong.
But now the mixture has dried out. It is no longer so juicy/wet/humid anymore.
It's woody from cedar, rooty/earthy from patchouly/vetiver, smoky from olibanum, leathery from castoreum, and a bit mossy/musky.
Yeah, I get some flowers, but I can't identify any in particular, except for a distant clove-cinnamon carnation.

Base - Leather, Moss, Musk, Olibanum, Castoreum.
DRY, leathery castoreum, mossy/musky (mild), smoky, peppery (strong), salty/mineralic.
It somehow reminds me of Black Tourmaline.
The sweetness is faint.
I get some mild resinous ambery sweetness (labdanum) only in the deep dry down (after 2-3 hours).

I love the dry down (the base).

Amazing description that you made here, Emanuel, thank you!
I had a look around, and in view of the unicorn status (and ridiculous ebay prices), I would rather keep this one out of the 'current' vetiver list, but I think you should paste this review on the fragrance page, as a service to the community - just a suggestion.
By the way, how did you get it? A sample?
 

Emanuel76

Well-known member
Jun 16, 2018
Amazing description that you made here, Emanuel, thank you!
Thank you, Andy! :smiley:

By the way, how did you get it? A sample?
No. I bought a 50 ml bottle, with spray.

I had a look around, and in view of the unicorn status (and ridiculous ebay prices)
If you love it, it doesn't seem too expensive. Vintage, quality materials, well blended, strong performances...
If it was a well-known brand, it would have been twice as much. For example, I just paid for a 50 ml bottle of Aramis - JHL 190$. AND IT'S A FRICKING SPLASH. Splash bottle should be for free. But, that's it, we live in a unfair world. :rolleyesold:
 

Andy the frenchy

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2018
If you love it, it doesn't seem too expensive. [...]

Fully agreed, just that I keep the present list current, to be of use by current buyers. But your description makes it sound totally worthy, even at high prices.


I just paid for a 50 ml bottle of Aramis - JHL 190$AND IT'S A FRICKING SPLASH.

Ohhh mannnn :shocked:
...and a splash bottle?? wow... you like risk!

In that category, I'd suggest Mediterraneum by Proteo (some say it's by Versace, but it's not). Just got a 50ml splash bottle, and ordered another two after 5min of wearing my first spray. Probably not the best of the best of the best (and for sure not in terms of performance), but I found it beautiful. Some (vague) vibes of Balenciaga PH (I swear) and Heritage.
If not for the scent overall, I'd suggest it just to smell that beautiful dance of spicy labdanum, patch and that stunning sandalwood note in the base. And at just.... $11 on ebay, what is the risk? haha
 

maksidrom

Well-known member
Dec 30, 2003
Has anyone tried Portrait of New York: Vetiver by Ralph Lauren? There's an entry in the database for it but no comments. Notes list is limited, but sounds intriguing!

Top Notes: Black pepper
Heart Notes: Green cardamom
Base notes: Haitian vetiver
I recently picked up RL Vetiver at a very deep discount ($60 for a 100 ml bottle) and it's a very nice dense oily piney sappy green vetiver. I don't get black pepper at all, but it's possible it's very well blended. I also get the impression that it behaves differently depending on skin temperature - in hot humid weather I get something dry green and airy more akin to TdH or AoS Vetiver Citron and in cold weather it's pure resinous pine tree sap. Decent longevity, but below average sillage and projection.
Very nice and obviously high quality ingredients, though I'm still not convinced it's worth those luxe/niche prices.
 
Apr 27, 2020
I recently picked up RL Vetiver at a very deep discount ($60 for a 100 ml bottle) and it's a very nice dense oily piney sappy green vetiver. I don't get black pepper at all, but it's possible it's very well blended. I also get the impression that it behaves differently depending on skin temperature - in hot humid weather I get something dry green and airy more akin to TdH or AoS Vetiver Citron and in cold weather it's pure resinous pine tree sap. Decent longevity, but below average sillage and projection.
Very nice and obviously high quality ingredients, though I'm still not convinced it's worth those luxe/niche prices.
Thanks for sharing your impressions on this!
 

Toxicon

Well-known member
May 29, 2021
Testing Hiram Green Vetiver today from a carded sample, based in part on feedback from this thread and the excellent review by @LiveJazz. Opens rather sharp and raw, and like the other Hiram Green scents I've tried it strikes me as unisex but rather unusual in overall profile, while definitely living up to the naturalistic billing. I wear vetiver scents more than anything else but haven't had the opportunity to try many higher-end varieties, so this is definitely a treat.

The core vetiver accord isn't dark or especially earthy, but rather bright up top and more rounded and nutty as it settles; it's actually quite similar to Givenchy's Vetyver but rendered in much sharper detail, which makes it feel quite a bit more aggressive. In synaesthetic terms, this strikes me as a hyper-vivid green to yellow gradient, if that makes sense (whereas Givenchy feels like a muted acorn brown). The initial brightness seems almost effervescent, which may be the ginger, and reminds me of the nose tingle I get from aldehydes but not quite. There's also a subtle fruitiness that emerges in the heart, almost like a ghost note of apricot. Feels like something I'd trot out in springtime. Very curious to see how this wears throughout the day.
 

Andy the frenchy

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2018
A new one I just picked up - Vetiver by Domaine Prive.
Added to the list, thank you! Any one-liner thought you would like to add? Type of vetiver (green/earthy/dry) or any fragrance it reminds you of?
Testing Hiram Green Vetiver today from a carded sample [..]
Thank you for having shared your thoughts on that one, definitely one I am looking forward to try!
 

Toxicon

Well-known member
May 29, 2021
Thank you for having shared your thoughts on that one, definitely one I am looking forward to try!
Thanks, Andy.

As an update to the above, the dry down was lovely, pretty much focused on vetiver but smoother and warmer than the bright opening, and it hung around on skin longer than expected (set my expectations low given the all natural composition).

I don’t know that I’d make this my every day vetiver—I generally prefer some more accompaniment, like cypress, cedar, or nutmeg—but the quality is real and I certainly wouldn’t mind a bottle!
 

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