The Rogue Perfumery Discussion Thread

[grayspoole]

Nicely written grayspoole.

Next individual would be Earlyn.

Thanks! Will ship to her ASAP.

 

[Juxtapozbliss]

Nicely written grayspoole.

Next individual would be Earlyn.

N.CAL, I think you missed my two posts previous to Grayspoole confirming who I am supposed to pass my sample on to.

 

[yellowtone]

Ahh, finally I managed to get my hands on a decant of Flora & Fauna, by way of Ecuación Natural, and threw in a decant of Chypre Siam for good measure. I haven't been able to get F&F out of my head since I tried it in this pass but it wasn't available for the longest time. Can't wait to receive this order!

 

[Kotori]

Ahh, finally I managed to get my hands on a decant of Flora & Fauna, by way of Ecuación Natural, and threw in a decant of Chypre Siam for good measure. I haven't been able to get F&F out of my head since I tried it in this pass but it wasn't available for the longest time. Can't wait to receive this order!

It’s fantastic, isn’t it?

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

N.CAL, I think you missed my two posts previous to Grayspoole confirming who I am supposed to pass my sample on to.

cacio would be the next individual on the list.

 

[yellowtone]

It’s fantastic, isn’t it?

The funny thing is, I can't really remember what it smelled like (I only tried it once), but I remember being mesmerised by it for the entire day I tested it. So it will be a bit of a surprise when it arrives!

 

[cacio]

I finally got this, just before Christmas. I concur with the other people. This feels like a classic clean aromatic masculine fougere-type perfume. Very well balanced, plesant, and it remains crips and aromatic throughout, with excellent longevity. Modern fougere rather than old, as it doesn't have the tonka powderiness of older fougeres. Very good and a must for those who like the genre. the brand clearly can produce solid classic-style perfumes.

Happy holidays!
Marco

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

I finally got this, just before Christmas. I concur with the other people. This feels like a classic clean aromatic masculine fougere-type perfume. Very well balanced, plesant, and it remains crips and aromatic throughout, with excellent longevity. Modern fougere rather than old, as it doesn't have the tonka powderiness of older fougeres. Very good and a must for those who like the genre. the brand clearly can produce solid classic-style perfumes.

Happy holidays!
Marco

Glad you enjoy Bon Monsieur, one of Manny's great releases for 2020. I think it rivals Jasmine Antique, it was that good.

 

[Kotori]

Finally got my first Rogue bottle (though I adore several):

 

[Kotori]

The funny thing is, I can't really remember what it smelled like (I only tried it once), but I remember being mesmerised by it for the entire day I tested it. So it will be a bit of a surprise when it arrives!

So has it arrived?!

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

Finally got my first Rogue bottle (though I adore several):

View attachment 142396

Congrats! Hopefully one Rogue bottle will lead to a few more

 

[drseid]

Finally got my first Rogue bottle (though I adore several):

View attachment 142396

Great choice, congrats!

 

[Kotori]

Great choice, congrats!

Thank you!

 

[Castingshadows]

I finally got around to sampling Tabac Vert. It’s a really nice soapy tobacco. The tobacco here is similar to La Via Del Profumo’s Tabac. It’s brown, earthy uncured tobacco leaf that almost reads as worn in saddle leather. It’s really nice and masculine with perfect soapy drydown. If derviche is ambered hookah/pipe tobacco Tabac Vert is a tad bit more natural and uncured.

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

I finally got around to sampling Tabac Vert. It’s a really nice soapy tobacco. The tobacco here is similar to La Via Del Profumo’s Tabac. It’s brown, earthy uncured tobacco leaf that almost reads as worn in saddle leather. It’s really nice and masculine with perfect soapy drydown. If derviche is ambered hookah/pipe tobacco Tabac Vert is a tad bit more natural and uncured.

It's a nice tobacco scent from Rogue. Have you tried Chypre-Siam and Mousse Illuminee? Those are other good ones to try.

 

[cacio]

Whom should I send the Bon Monsieur sample to? I think jujy wants to skip at least for now.
cacio

 

[psawjack]

So my bottle of Bon Monsieur has finally appeared and I was able to give it a 1 spray first impression. To me it is a higher quality and better smelling version of YSL Rive Gauche. The vintage one. I need to do a side by side but I think Bon Monsieur will win that battle. I love all phases of the frag.

Another thumbs to Manny!

Sent from my KB2007 using Tapatalk

 

[cacio]

I still have the bon monsieur sample. Jujy is passing on this. Whom should I send it to next?
cacio

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

I still have the bon monsieur sample. Jujy is passing on this. Whom should I send it to next?
cacio

Please contact Kotori.

 

[cacio]

Good, I'll pm.

 

[cacio]

Kotori has tried this already. Whom should it go to next?

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

Kotori has tried this already. Whom should it go to next?

It appears that everyone who wanted to try has tried it. You could send a PM to Zephyr1973 as she formerly was a member of this sample pass maybe she might be interested.

 

[cacio]

ok, will pm.

 

[drseid]

Looks like Vetifleur and Derviche II are now available at Lucky Scent. I just blind bought a bottle of the former as the notes look right up my alley and got a sample of the latter. Looking forward to sniffing both.

 

[Jed Or Alive]

Looks like Vetifleur and Derviche II are now available at Lucky Scent. I just blind bought a bottle of the former as the notes look right up my alley and got a sample of the latter. Looking forward to sniffing both.

Awesome, thanks for the heads up; I've been eagerly awaiting these.

 

[Diamondflame]

I wonder how different Derviche II is from the original…

 

[Jed Or Alive]

I wonder how different Derviche II is from the original…

When asked on IG, he responded that it's

still a sweet amber, not syrupy sweet as Derviche. Derviche2 is more woody with a brighter fresher opening; more modern. I used a tiny amount of Vietnamese agarwood to build up the woody notes but Deviche2 is not an oud fragrance per se. Notes: citrus, Mediterranean herbs, incense woods, amber, macerated fruits, vanilla, musk

Re: Vetifleur,

Vetifleur is more unisex/feminine depending on your taste. It’s floral, woody and green. I used the rose base that I created for Chypre-Siam plus a hefty amount of rose absolute. I used some Jasmin Antique as a base plus a vetiver base I created for another fragrance I’m working on for next year. Vetifleur notes: bergamot, vetiver Java, rose, jasmine, iris, oakmoss, cedar

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

Looks like Vetifleur and Derviche II are now available at Lucky Scent. I just blind bought a bottle of the former as the notes look right up my alley and got a sample of the latter. Looking forward to sniffing both.

Please share with us your initial impressions of both.

 

[drseid]

Please share with us your initial impressions of both.

Will do. It looks like the package is set to deliver this Saturday, so I may have some first impressions over the weekend sometime.

 

[drseid]

Please share with us your initial impressions of both.

Wow, Vetifleur is everything I hoped it would be and more.

The vetiver used at the perfume’s heart is more like the somewhat transparent smooth vetiver in the superb smelling Coeur de Vetiver Sacre by L’Artisan, adding just a slightly green edge to the perfume, as it melds with a bit of oakmoss, dark rose and a touch of natural smelling wood, all supporting a sublime starring jasmine (as found in Jasmin Antique) and slightly powdery and creamy iris tandem. The whole thing comes together in perfect balance, with just a hint of overall sweetness displayed throughout. I have only been wearing the perfume for an hour now, and already know this will near certainly be the best new release I will sniff this year. Stunning!

Derviche II will need to wait for another day to fully experience, but my first thoughts are it initially comes off as much more floral and woody with a touch of oud added for good measure, than the original (that I own and like quite a bit). This is much less sweet, does not feature the tobacco prominent in the original, and quite frankly is much more to my taste. I can tell it wont be the winner Vetifleur is, but it near surely is indeed a winner none the less and a probable buy for me eventually.

 

[Stinky_Pete]

Wow, Vetifleur is everything I hoped it would be and more.

The vetiver used at the perfume’s heart is more like the somewhat transparent smooth vetiver in the superb smelling Coeur de Vetiver Sacre by L’Artisan, adding just a slightly green edge to the perfume, as it melds with a bit of oakmoss, dark rose and a touch of natural smelling wood, all supporting a sublime starring jasmine (as found in Jasmin Antique) and slightly powdery and creamy iris tandem. The whole thing comes together in perfect balance, with just a hint of overall sweetness displayed throughout. I have only been wearing the perfume for an hour now, and already know this will near certainly be the best new release I will sniff this year. Stunning!

Derviche II will need to wait for another day to fully experience, but my first thoughts are it initially comes off as much more floral and woody with a touch of oud added for good measure, than the original (that I own and like quite a bit). This is much less sweet, does not feature the tobacco prominent in the original, and quite frankly is much more to my taste. I can tell it wont be the winner Vetifleur is, but it near surely is indeed a winner none the less and a probable buy for me eventually.

Did you find Vetifleur do have any poopy or indolic aspects from the Jasmine? I can’t do Jasmine Antique due to this issue. Please share more thoughts when you have the time, especially with Dervice II.

 

[drseid]

Did you find Vetifleur do have any poopy or indolic aspects from the Jasmine? I can’t do Jasmine Antique due to this issue. Please share more thoughts when you have the time, especially with Dervice II.

There is a very slight detectable indolic aspect to the jasmine component, but then again I am not overly sensitive to the indoles as some were in Jasmin Antique. My guess is in its implementation here, the other ingredients in Vetifleur mitigate the impact of any indolic facet, unlike when used in a soliflore like Jasmin Antique, so even those more sensitive to them may not notice them as much here.

In the case of Derviche II, more thoughts will come after I give it a proper wear sometime this week. I am enjoying the Vetifleur too much right now to give it proper attention on skin just yet.

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

Wow, Vetifleur is everything I hoped it would be and more.

The vetiver used at the perfume’s heart is more like the somewhat transparent smooth vetiver in the superb smelling Coeur de Vetiver Sacre by L’Artisan, adding just a slightly green edge to the perfume, as it melds with a bit of oakmoss, dark rose and a touch of natural smelling wood, all supporting a sublime starring jasmine (as found in Jasmin Antique) and slightly powdery and creamy iris tandem. The whole thing comes together in perfect balance, with just a hint of overall sweetness displayed throughout. I have only been wearing the perfume for an hour now, and already know this will near certainly be the best new release I will sniff this year. Stunning!

From your description of Vetifleur, it sounds like it could be something that I might enjoy a lot.

 

[drseid]

From your description of Vetifleur, it sounds like it could be something that I might enjoy a lot.

Now after two full wearings on skin is a more complete description of the perfume's development from top-to-bottom, and its performance metrics:

Vetifleur opens with a slightly indolic jasmine and citrus bergamot tandem at the fore, with just a hint of underlying transparent vetiver in support before transitioning to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the slightly indolic jasmine remains, now as co-star, joining slightly powdery, mildly creamy iris as its co-starring counterpart, with the citrus bergamot joining moderately lush rose, the earlier relatively transparent vetiver and now subtle natural smelling woods and mossy oakmoss in support, as the supporting notes gain a somewhat sharp green tinge. During the late dry-down the bergamot and rose vacate and the jasmine gradually wanes, leaving the vetiver to finally take the fore as it melds with the remnants of the mildly powdery iris, oakmoss and natural smelling cedar wood through the finish. Projection is excellent and longevity approaching outstanding at just over 15 hours on skin.

As it is not yet in the BN directory, my complete review is found on another site beginning with a "P," but the short version is this is another masterpiece caliber offering that is the best new thing I have sniffed this year, and that is *highly* unlikely to change (heck, I am certain of it). With Vetifleur following the masterpiece caliber jasmine soliflore Jasmin Antique from last year, Manuel Cross has achieved the near-impossible... back-to-back perfume of the year winners and masterpieces (at least to my nose and preferences).

 

[drseid]

Up today is Derviche II. I am wearing it on one arm and the regular Derviche on the other for side-by-side comparison on skin.

So far a couple hours in I must say that Derviche II is more like a distant relative, than a close family member... It comes off a *very* dry woody, with what is most likely synthetic oud playing a large role in its fragrance profile. There is a *bit* of tobacco, but unlike the original that smells more sweet and pipe tobacco-like, this is more subtle, dry tobacco flower to my nose. There is also a decent floral component, but the oud and dry woods gobble up a lot of the florals. Projection is very good. Longevity is TBD (will update this post after the full wearing)

By contrast the original is smoother, sweeter, more vanilla and pipe tobacco prominent, with subtle florals more easily detectable despite the fact that I believe there are actually more florals used in "II."

So far, I am not sure which I prefer. I liked the original and bought a bottle, but I never quite could get to love and almost never wear it. "II" is certainly different enough that one could easily consider it almost unrelated, but I am not sure if it is any better on the whole... just different. After further review, I don't think this is going to be a buy for me, though I find it far from a failure.

EDIT: Now about 8 hours into the perfume's development, the two perfumes have near identical late dry-downs. *Now* I see the tie-in! It took a good 5 hours before it really showed, however. I think the late dry-down is the best thing about both, but as there is a lot that happens first in the very different heart phases, one would not be duplicating much if they owned both...

 

[Bavard]

the short version is this is another masterpiece

I'll have to check out Vetifleur.

 

[LinePlaneVolume]

I'll have to check out Vetifleur.

Same. Definitely intrigued.

 

[Cook.bot]

The vetiver used at the perfume’s heart is more like the somewhat transparent smooth vetiver in the superb smelling Coeur de Vetiver Sacre by L’Artisan, adding just a slightly green edge to the perfume, as it melds with a bit of oakmoss, dark rose and a touch of natural smelling wood

Drseid, are you familiar with Rogue's 'Le Canotier'? And if so, would you compare the vetiver you find in Vetifleur to the vetiver in that?

I ask because your description (transparent, smooth, green edge) sounds quite a bit like Canotier, which I really liked and was sorry to see discontinued.

 

[drseid]

Drseid, are you familiar with Rogue's 'Le Canotier'? And if so, would you compare the vetiver you find in Vetifleur to the vetiver in that?

I ask because your description (transparent, smooth, green edge) sounds quite a bit like Canotier, which I really liked and was sorry to see discontinued.

I love and own Le Canotier, but at least to my nose this is a smoother, more transparent vetiver than the one used there.

 

[Earlyn]

I’ve enjoyed catching up on this thread. Lovely notes and tempting descriptions.

I have samples of everything except Flora and Fauna, Tuberose and Moss, Bon Monsieur, and now Vetifleur and Derviche II.
Since that is 5 and Manny sells pick-your-owns as a 4 pack I guess I’l just order a new full set with all his samples included
I like so many of his fragrances that I don’t have a problem having some sample duplicates since I can’t be buying a FB of everything I like!
I own a FB of Derviche and aspire to FBs of Champs Lunaires and Jasmin Antique.
OR
From what I am reading about Bon Monsieur (for Mr) and Vetifleur (for me) one or both of those might move ahead in that line.