The Official Amouage Fragrance Thread

Dr B1414

Well-known member
Oct 21, 2019
Greeting Amouage fans!

I need your help with one that I consider being the best from the line. I'm not a huge fan of the house, tested pretty much all of them, and the only ones that I really connect with were Fate Woman and Jubilation 25 Woman. Naturally, liking the EDP versions of these, I went on and acquired samples of the Extraits in order to compare and get the best composition. Surprisingly, I found Fate EDP better than the Extrait, or at least I prefer the EDP. However, I much more prefer the Extrait version of Jubilation 25W over the EDP. The EDP feels, as many have already pointed out, like a Western Chypre, whereas the Extrait behaves much more like an Oriental perfume with lots of resins, incense, and YES, Cumin. It still has that Chypre touch, but wouldn't ever think of it as a Chypre. I really, really need a bottle of the Extrait in my life. Now, my dilemma:

For those of you that are familiar with Jubilation 25W Extrait, did it change over the years? I suppose my sample is from the most recent batches. I still think it smells heavenly. Apparently, these Extraits are now being discontinued, so no time to waste. I've done some research and I have found only a few stores that carry the Jubilation 25W Extrait. I've reached out to them asking about batch codes in order to track down an older one. The oldest that I've found were 2 bottles from 2016, made in Oman. Obviously, I would love to get a non-magnetic cap version, but I doubt I'll manage to find one. Also, I've found a limited edition, that comes in 100 ml size with crystals studded on the cap. Does anyone know when these came out? Also, Extrait de parfum.

Thank you!
 

LloydLlewellyn

Well-known member
May 9, 2011
Greeting Amouage fans!

I need your help with one that I consider being the best from the line. I'm not a huge fan of the house, tested pretty much all of them, and the only ones that I really connect with were Fate Woman and Jubilation 25 Woman. Naturally, liking the EDP versions of these, I went on and acquired samples of the Extraits in order to compare and get the best composition. Surprisingly, I found Fate EDP better than the Extrait, or at least I prefer the EDP. However, I much more prefer the Extrait version of Jubilation 25W over the EDP. The EDP feels, as many have already pointed out, like a Western Chypre, whereas the Extrait behaves much more like an Oriental perfume with lots of resins, incense, and YES, Cumin. It still has that Chypre touch, but wouldn't ever think of it as a Chypre. I really, really need a bottle of the Extrait in my life. Now, my dilemma:

For those of you that are familiar with Jubilation 25W Extrait, did it change over the years? I suppose my sample is from the most recent batches. I still think it smells heavenly. Apparently, these Extraits are now being discontinued, so no time to waste. I've done some research and I have found only a few stores that carry the Jubilation 25W Extrait. I've reached out to them asking about batch codes in order to track down an older one. The oldest that I've found were 2 bottles from 2016, made in Oman. Obviously, I would love to get a non-magnetic cap version, but I doubt I'll manage to find one. Also, I've found a limited edition, that comes in 100 ml size with crystals studded on the cap. Does anyone know when these came out? Also, Extrait de parfum.

Thank you!

I also prefer Fate EDP to the extrait, it is rounder and less screechy.
As for Jube 25, I also agree that the extrait is more linear: while the EDP has two phases, first a chypre and then an oriental heavy on myrrh, the extrait is constantly an oriental with a lot of spices and resins.
I have the one with the Swarovski crystals, my guess is that they were made around 2015. I haven't noticed any change from when I bought it, I guess it will become more resiny like most of my orientals do over time, but in general Amouages age in quite a stable way.
 

Dr B1414

Well-known member
Oct 21, 2019
I also prefer Fate EDP to the extrait, it is rounder and less screechy.
As for Jube 25, I also agree that the extrait is more linear: while the EDP has two phases, first a chypre and then an oriental heavy on myrrh, the extrait is constantly an oriental with a lot of spices and resins.
I have the one with the Swarovski crystals, my guess is that they were made around 2015. I haven't noticed any change from when I bought it, I guess it will become more resiny like most of my orientals do over time, but in general Amouages age in quite a stable way.

Thank you for this. Really love these two. Especially Jubilation 25 WEX.
 

Benjaminjamesdoughty

Well-known member
Jul 9, 2009
My bottle of silver oud arrived today.

This ones a bit of a chameleon. I wore it this morning and this afternoon after a shower and my impressions are different.

I hate comparing scents to others as I’m sure that’s not what the perfumer intended but it’s a good way to get a handle on the type of perfume we have here.

It opens with a strong resinous patchouli akin to monsieur by FM but with a slightly more petroleum vibe. Moving to a inoffensive oud with very well rounded vanilla - the notes come
across akin to chimera by tiziana terenzi or aoud vanille by mancera (but 100 times better quality).

This morning when I first applied it all I could smell was the oud and vanille - and i thought maybe it would grow on me as it didn’t seem that different than others in this well worn genre.

However my second run was all about the patchouli. Rich and deep with oud and vanilla as a backbone but not overpowering. This is much better and seems to be a very well balanced scent.

Looking forward to wearing again and see what it brings.
 

deltasun

Well-known member
Jun 12, 2017
My bottle of silver oud arrived today.

This ones a bit of a chameleon. I wore it this morning and this afternoon after a shower and my impressions are different.

I hate comparing scents to others as I’m sure that’s not what the perfumer intended but it’s a good way to get a handle on the type of perfume we have here.

It opens with a strong resinous patchouli akin to monsieur by FM but with a slightly more petroleum vibe. Moving to a inoffensive oud with very well rounded vanilla - the notes come
across akin to chimera by tiziana terenzi or aoud vanille by mancera (but 100 times better quality).

This morning when I first applied it all I could smell was the oud and vanille - and i thought maybe it would grow on me as it didn’t seem that different than others in this well worn genre.

However my second run was all about the patchouli. Rich and deep with oud and vanilla as a backbone but not overpowering. This is much better and seems to be a very well balanced scent.

Looking forward to wearing again and see what it brings.

Thanks for your impressions! Looking forward to try this at some point.
 

Mak-7

Well-known member
Sep 19, 2019
Thanks Benjamin.
Give it a day or 2 to settle, and try again. Fresh off the road frags dont showcase all they got.

How sweet or not sweet is the frag, and does it give off green frag vibes overall, or more brown due to oud and vanilla?

Thanks
 

Benjaminjamesdoughty

Well-known member
Jul 9, 2009
Thanks Benjamin.
Give it a day or 2 to settle, and try again. Fresh off the road frags dont showcase all they got.

How sweet or not sweet is the frag, and does it give off green frag vibes overall, or more brown due to oud and vanilla?

Thanks

With the resinous patchouli at the start it gives a black/brown vibe but becomes more brown with the oud and vanilla as it dries down. The vanilla is very dry so not sweet.
 

The Bark

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2003
My bottle of silver oud arrived today.

This ones a bit of a chameleon. I wore it this morning and this afternoon after a shower and my impressions are different.

I hate comparing scents to others as I’m sure that’s not what the perfumer intended but it’s a good way to get a handle on the type of perfume we have here.

It opens with a strong resinous patchouli akin to monsieur by FM but with a slightly more petroleum vibe. Moving to a inoffensive oud with very well rounded vanilla - the notes come
across akin to chimera by tiziana terenzi or aoud vanille by mancera (but 100 times better quality).

This morning when I first applied it all I could smell was the oud and vanille - and i thought maybe it would grow on me as it didn’t seem that different than others in this well worn genre.

However my second run was all about the patchouli. Rich and deep with oud and vanilla as a backbone but not overpowering. This is much better and seems to be a very well balanced scent.

Looking forward to wearing again and see what it brings.

Thanks for the thoughts. For clarification, when you said the notes come across like chimera, I'm assuming you're talking of its actual smell or progression of notes because chimera is a shapeshifter on me. I love the progression of notes in it, but haven't purchased a bottle because parts of it resemble other fragrances (for instance, when you get into the deeper stages when the tobacco comes out, it smells similar to Herod.) It sounds from your description it has a lot of different nuances and is complex. I saw your review on Fragrantica re: Hells Angels biker on a dinner date which sounds right up my alley, lol. I'm just wondering how unique it really wears and how smokey it might be.
 
Jul 7, 2012
Thanks. I received the Amouage email about this a couple of hours ago and placed an order for Reflection 45.

Wowza. I wonder how the scent differs from the original, not in terms of strength but rather in terms of the smell - especially the base.

I think Reflection is excellent, but if they tweaked the base ever so slightly, it could be astounding.
 

Benjaminjamesdoughty

Well-known member
Jul 9, 2009
I am wondering how Epic and Honour are different from their extract versions

I asked Renaud about this myself as I already have the original epic extrait and he replied with the below:

Epic 56 Woman is quite different than the previous extrait for the following reasons:
- Concentration: the fragrance is now at 56% while the previous extrait was at 40% (the EDP is at 23.2%).
- Formulation: the previous extrait was based on the same concentrate as the EDP, only at a higher dosage. Epic 56 Woman is a different concentrate than the EDP, created specifically with Cecile Zarokian to optimize its character at a higher dosage and predestined for longer maturation and maceration.
- Aging: Epic 56 Batch #1 went through 8 weeks of maturation followed by 10 week of maceration. The previous extrait had a 4 weeks + 4 weeks protocol.
 

Blizzard

Well-known member
Jul 5, 2017
- Formulation: the previous extrait was based on the same concentrate as the EDP, only at a higher dosage. Epic 56 Woman is a different concentrate than the EDP, created specifically with Cecile Zarokian to optimize its character at a higher dosage and predestined for longer maturation and maceration.

Interesting. I wonder if Reflection 45 uses the same concentrate as the EDP at a higher dose, or if it uses a tweaked formula like what was done for Epic 56? I will try to remember to give my thoughts when I receive it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

rsalmon

Well-known member
Oct 7, 2011
Interesting. I wonder if Reflection 45 uses the same concentrate as the EDP at a higher dose, or if it uses a tweaked formula like what was done for Epic 56? I will try to remember to give my thoughts when I receive it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is a different concentrate. I would not want to spoil the whole discovery for when you receive it but I can quickly say that we went through the full original formula with Lucas Sieuzac, the perfumer, with the idea to go back as close as possible to the very original character of Reflection Man, that feels slightly more aromatic, floral and textured than the current iteration (that had undergone one round of IFRA reformulation around 2014) - maybe a touch more retro but not much.
Then we selected the qualities of naturals that would give the best performance at a higher dosage because I did not want something disappointing from both a diffusion and lastingness point of view. I think that this won't disappoint.
Finally, increasing complexity without changing too much the character of the fragrance by adding ingredients that play a very similar role to some notes already present in Reflection EDP. For example we added angelica roots that has this musk-like, green, aromatic profile that complements well the existing structure and is also a good fixative. The same is valid for the addition of Indian sandalwood that complements the original creaminess of the fragrance.
 

Benjaminjamesdoughty

Well-known member
Jul 9, 2009
It is a different concentrate. I would not want to spoil the whole discovery for when you receive it but I can quickly say that we went through the full original formula with Lucas Sieuzac, the perfumer, with the idea to go back as close as possible to the very original character of Reflection Man, that feels slightly more aromatic, floral and textured than the current iteration (that had undergone one round of IFRA reformulation around 2014) - maybe a touch more retro but not much.
Then we selected the qualities of naturals that would give the best performance at a higher dosage because I did not want something disappointing from both a diffusion and lastingness point of view. I think that this won't disappoint.
Finally, increasing complexity without changing too much the character of the fragrance by adding ingredients that play a very similar role to some notes already present in Reflection EDP. For example we added angelica roots that has this musk-like, green, aromatic profile that complements well the existing structure and is also a good fixative. The same is valid for the addition of Indian sandalwood that complements the original creaminess of the fragrance.

Take my money now lol
 

Dr B1414

Well-known member
Oct 21, 2019
Regarding the new Epic 56. How come the new extrait is more concentrated than the previous, and also double the size (100 vs 50ml), yet, it costs half the price per ml? The math doesn't add up :)). If I remember correctly, the previous extraits were around 450 USD for 50ml.
 

rsalmon

Well-known member
Oct 7, 2011
Regarding the new Epic 56. How come the new extrait is more concentrated than the previous, and also double the size (100 vs 50ml), yet, it costs half the price per ml? The math doesn't add up :)). If I remember correctly, the previous extraits were around 450 USD for 50ml.

You are right. I am not sure what drove the decisions about the prices of the previous extraits but they were indeed quite expensive and represented a very small percentage of Amouage sales. Some of them were the same concentrate at 35% vs 25% for the EDP, with the exact same aging protocol. Which I can’t understand.

The new extraits are still quite an investment given their 100ml size but you are getting a concentrate that is either the same as the original EDP (Interlude 53) or more complex and significantly more expensive to produce (for the 3 other extraits), at a significantly higher concentration (at least double). There is no hidden trick here!
 

Dr B1414

Well-known member
Oct 21, 2019
You are right. I am not sure what drove the decisions about the prices of the previous extraits but they were indeed quite expensive and represented a very small percentage of Amouage sales. Some of them were the same concentrate at 35% vs 25% for the EDP, with the exact same aging protocol. Which I can’t understand.

The new extraits are still quite an investment given their 100ml size but you are getting a concentrate that is either the same as the original EDP (Interlude 53) or more complex and significantly more expensive to produce (for the 3 other extraits), at a significantly higher concentration (at least double). There is no hidden trick here!

Thank you for the info. Do you know if Jubilation 25 Woman is going to see a re-release in this new Extrait format? I adore the previous Jubilation 25 Woman Extrait.
 

Dr B1414

Well-known member
Oct 21, 2019
Holy molly, just sampled Opus IX today. How come this one didn't grab my attention sooner? Super animalic, furry, smoky, Jasmine, what is not to love? Glorious perfume! Camelia? Please......All skanky Jasmine here. This is the skankiest of them. Huge love from me.
 

GoldWineMemories

Well-known member
Nov 22, 2019
Holy molly, just sampled Opus IX today. How come this one didn't grab my attention sooner? Super animalic, furry, smoky, Jasmine, what is not to love? Glorious perfume! Camelia? Please......All skanky Jasmine here. This is the skankiest of them. Huge love from me.
Wow that one sounds wonderful. We're getting a new Amouage counter at the local Neiman Marcus, and I hope they get some of the Opus collection in at some point I'd love to try that.
 

Benjaminjamesdoughty

Well-known member
Jul 9, 2009
Both epic 56 and reflection 45 arrived today.



I will limit my thoughts to quick 1st impressions as I’ve only had one wearing.



Epic 56 is stellar work. As expected it evolves slower and wears smoother and softer. It opens as if the original epic had been aged in a whisky barrel for 15 years. I think I prefer this to the EDP and certainly a step above the last batch of the old epic extrait I had which I swiftly sold.



Reflection 45 has a similar evolution. On the opening spray I said aloud ‘that’s the reflection I remember’. But up close is a different story. At extrait concentration, the perfume shows many phases and layers with prominence on different notes like iris which weren’t as present in the EDP. In the first few hours I think I’m wearing a different scent completely.



Will keep testing but it’s safe to say both are great releases and certainly not Redundant in the line.
 

LloydLlewellyn

Well-known member
May 9, 2011
It is a different concentrate. I would not want to spoil the whole discovery for when you receive it but I can quickly say that we went through the full original formula with Lucas Sieuzac, the perfumer, with the idea to go back as close as possible to the very original character of Reflection Man, that feels slightly more aromatic, floral and textured than the current iteration (that had undergone one round of IFRA reformulation around 2014) - maybe a touch more retro but not much.
Then we selected the qualities of naturals that would give the best performance at a higher dosage because I did not want something disappointing from both a diffusion and lastingness point of view. I think that this won't disappoint.
Finally, increasing complexity without changing too much the character of the fragrance by adding ingredients that play a very similar role to some notes already present in Reflection EDP. For example we added angelica roots that has this musk-like, green, aromatic profile that complements well the existing structure and is also a good fixative. The same is valid for the addition of Indian sandalwood that complements the original creaminess of the fragrance.
Hi Renaud,
what can you tell us about the new attars by Dominic Ropion, Cécile Zarokian and Julien Rasquinet?
How do they compare with the previous ones, of which I am a huge fan?
 

Benjaminjamesdoughty

Well-known member
Jul 9, 2009
I think I’m well out of the loop with these new attars by Dominic Ropion, Cécile Zarokian and Julien Rasquinet. I can see there is an Instagram live event with these perfumers on amouages Instagram for tomorrow but don’t know anything about these new creations.

Does anyone have any info?
 

Nares Hughes

Well-known member
Dec 28, 2018
Does anyone have any experience with Salalah Green? A Harrods exclusive apparently, from a few years back.
Mine's quite light, and closest to Epic Woman to my (limited) reckoning.
I'd be interested to hear others' views on it.
 

The Bark

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2003
I got the impression from the video that these are complete scents in and of themselves with a variety of notes in each composition, built around a central note. I've never been a fan of the "create your own" by layering. Always found that to be a silly marketing ploy to get you to purchase everything and let you do the work.
 

Benjaminjamesdoughty

Well-known member
Jul 9, 2009
I got the impression from the video that these are complete scents in and of themselves with a variety of notes in each composition, built around a central note. I've never been a fan of the "create your own" by layering. Always found that to be a silly marketing ploy to get you to purchase everything and let you do the work.
Agreed. Some perfume houses sell it like an interactive element. And while I expect that when I go to the supermarket to buy food and then have to cook it myself, I don’t want any assembly required when it comes to perfume 😀

I’m sure, like you said, based on the perfumers involved and that YouTube video, these attars are complete scents.
 

GoldWineMemories

Well-known member
Nov 22, 2019
Woah Oud Ulya may be interesting. I'd give them all a try, but if they do the exclusive thing along with the I'm sure higher price point then they can fuck off. I'm not blindly spending hundreds of dollars on stuff.
 

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