"That" oakmoss drydown and where to find it

bilo

Super Member
Jul 17, 2014
Hello all!

Recently I've been noticing that I am quite drawn to a particular oakmoss note found stuck to my skin long after drydowns begin. I have found this effect in some Creeds before and most recently while I was discovering Nicolai fragrances. For example, Cap Neroli by Nicolai and (yes, especially some older) Aventus gives me that skin scent the day after wearing the fragrance.

Where can I find this modern, complex but skin-like oakmoss most concentrated? If possible, I'd just dose myself in that accord hehe :)

Thanks in advance!

PS: I imagine New York Intense would give me that, but I am too concerned about the "old-school" aesthetic of that one..
 

Pippin06

always learning--often laughing
Feb 8, 2017
Hello all!

Recently I've been noticing that I am quite drawn to a particular oakmoss note found stuck to my skin long after drydowns begin. I have found this effect in some Creeds before and most recently while I was discovering Nicolai fragrances. For example, Cap Neroli by Nicolai and (yes, especially some older) Aventus gives me that skin scent the day after wearing the fragrance.

Where can I find this modern, complex but skin-like oakmoss most concentrated? If possible, I'd just dose myself in that accord hehe :)

Thanks in advance!

PS: I imagine New York Intense would give me that, but I am too concerned about the "old-school" aesthetic of that one..
Yes, New York Intense has a beautiful, long lasting oakmoss rich drydown. Aramis by aramis is another one with a gorgeous oakmoss drydown, accompanied by leather. I don't ever see fragrances as dated, so personally, wouldn't worry about an old-school vibe. But then, I'm 60. :)
 

freewheelingvagabond

Basenotes Institution
Jun 10, 2012
Hello all!

Recently I've been noticing that I am quite drawn to a particular oakmoss note found stuck to my skin long after drydowns begin. I have found this effect in some Creeds before and most recently while I was discovering Nicolai fragrances. For example, Cap Neroli by Nicolai and (yes, especially some older) Aventus gives me that skin scent the day after wearing the fragrance.

Where can I find this modern, complex but skin-like oakmoss most concentrated? If possible, I'd just dose myself in that accord hehe :)

Thanks in advance!

PS: I imagine New York Intense would give me that, but I am too concerned about the "old-school" aesthetic of that one..

New York Intense

Have to wait at least 2-3 hours though.
 

L'Aventurier

Basenotes Dependent
May 8, 2008
I think what you're smelling is usually a blend of virginia cedar, haitian vetiver, labdanum and oakmoss (plus or minus some other ingredients). It's harder and harder to find that specific, classic accord these days because of IFRA restrictions.

Some of the eau de colognes that Jean Claude Ellena created for Hermes have this particular drydown, without smelling dated. My favorites are Eau de Gentiane Blanche and Concentree de Pamplemousse Rose.

Some other ones that smell modern but with a throw-back oakmoss drydown are Eau d'Ikar by Sisley, Eau de Guerlain, French Lover by Frederic Malle, Rive Gauche (vintage only), Yohji Homme (vintage only).

Edit: The most oakmoss heavy option, with little to no florals or citrus, is French Lover, followed by Eau de Gentiane Blanche and Concentree de Pamplemousse Rose (even though it's slightly floral with lots of grapefruit).
 

N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer

Retired
Basenotes Plus
Jul 1, 2011
Hello all!

Recently I've been noticing that I am quite drawn to a particular oakmoss note found stuck to my skin long after drydowns begin. I have found this effect in some Creeds before and most recently while I was discovering Nicolai fragrances. For example, Cap Neroli by Nicolai and (yes, especially some older) Aventus gives me that skin scent the day after wearing the fragrance.
Which Creeds did you find this oakmoss note? Feuilles Vertes, Cypres-Musc and Vintage Tabarome come to mind.

If you're looking for oakmoss notes in general, Chanel Pour Monsieur and Rogue Perfumery Chypre-Siam would be good picks.
 

Pippin06

always learning--often laughing
Feb 8, 2017
Which Creeds did you find this oakmoss note? Cypres-Musc and Vintage Tabarome come to mind.

If you're looking for oakmoss notes in general, Chanel Pour Monsieur and Rogue Perfumery Chypre-Siam would be good picks.
Yes, Chanel Pour Monsieur--especially vintage, and pre IFRA restrictions--is quite oakmoss rich. With the splash vintage, to me it's a lovely lemon and oakmoss combination from opening to drydown.
 

Scentologist

Basenotes Institution
Apr 17, 2007
Yes, Chanel Pour Monsieur--especially vintage, and pre IFRA restrictions--is quite oakmoss rich. With the splash vintage, to me it's a lovely lemon and oakmoss combination from opening to drydown.
So heavenly the way you describe it. I wished we could go back to the 80's and hoard some fragrances. Compositions are like art and shouldn't be allowed to be tampered with. Fragrances today are barely recognizable to their former self and how good and rich fragrances use to be.
 

mrcologneguy

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 2, 2009
Vintage YSL Pour Homme is a nice oakmoss bomb.

After you’re done winning the lottery and having an audience with The Pope, you might be able to track down a bottle without getting scammed online.

In the meantime, New York Intense is always welcome. Good call.
 

N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer

Retired
Basenotes Plus
Jul 1, 2011
So heavenly the way you describe it. I wished we could go back to the 80's and hoard some fragrances. Compositions are like art and shouldn't be allowed to be tampered with. Fragrances today are barely recognizable to their former self and how good and rich fragrances use to be.
Thankfully they are still available on ebay including its earlier iterations Chanel For Men/A Gengtlemans Cologne/EDC Pour Monsieur. Unfortunately other classics like Guerlain Derby and Dior Jules aren't so common to come by anymore and not without massive premiums.
 

Zenwannabee

Super Member
Sep 15, 2009
Such a shame that Chanel PM Concentree is no longer made. I loved the cardamom and the oakmoss drydown. However, two of my other ‘80s powerhouse favorites have great drydowns with at least some oakmoss—Lauder for Men and Giorgio Beverly Hills.

And if you like Aramis, the oakmoss drydown in Clinique’s Aromatics Elixir is also fabulous—though, like Lauder for Men, minus the leather.
 

rum

Moderator
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Mar 17, 2011
I have found this effect in some Creeds before and most recently while I was discovering Nicolai fragrances. For example, Cap Neroli by Nicolai and (yes, especially some older) Aventus gives me that skin scent the day after wearing the fragrance.
The only common 'note' that I can think within these scents is a heavy dose of ambroxan. I'm actually surprised by some of the suggestions here. But who knows, it could be that my nose is just so receptive to that molecule that I can't detect much else. It's definitely in Aventus (and most Creeds) though and New York Intense as well.
 

mr. reasonable

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 1, 2009
If you can find it (discontinued a few years back) Tiffany for Men is a classic - close to the original Nicolai New York. I forget the whole story but it was made for Tiffany by the same perfumer working on some classic Chanels way back before IFRA changes.
 

woodnotes55

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 27, 2016
If you can find it (discontinued a few years back) Tiffany for Men is a classic - close to the original Nicolai New York. I forget the whole story but it was made for Tiffany by the same perfumer working on some classic Chanels way back before IFRA changes.
That a good one. Trouble is OP mentions not wanting "old school" and most of the reasonable priced vintage scents that are full of oakmoss beauty.... are old ones!!
 

Ken_Russell

Basenotes Institution
Jan 21, 2006
Many great names already mentioned, also adding Van Cleef Arpels Tsar and also pour Homme (both sadly discontinued, but still worth getting as vintage), while both more vintage and current Agua Brava, Caron Yatagan, Bogart One Man Show, Knize Forest, Amouage Bracken.
Especially the pricier latter two but also the Van Cleef & Arpels classics are very little old school and actually quite daringly natural yet also creative in their vision of traditional oakmoss.
 

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