Synchronized Fridays 2021

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N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer

Retired
Basenotes Plus
Jul 1, 2011
Continued the sync through a double syncing (Weekend Sync) with Balenciaga Pour Homme
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sagebrush

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 20, 2017
Finishing this week's Friday Synch with Hiram Green Hyde, since I don't have to be around people today. I appreciate the charred, beefy leatheriness of this one, particularly when it starts to develop sweeter and even slightly green notes. It's a shapeshifter.
ETA : My first thought this morning was 'mmmmm. Bovril crisps'. Still going strong 12 hours later. Savoury vanilla leather.
 
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grayspoole

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014
Sync-ed belatedly with Tabac Blond parfum yesterday, and I enjoyed every minute of it.

It’s described variously as a tobocco or a leather scent but I must admit that it doesn’t strongly suggest either natural material to me. More the tobacco than the leather. My parfum is not especially vintage (I think it’s from 2003), so that may be a factor. I do get a rich, lightly smoky dose of the classic Caron accord of carnation, amber, and spice.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Sync-ed belatedly with Tabac Blond parfum yesterday, and I enjoyed every minute of it.

It’s described variously as a tobocco or a leather scent but I must admit that it doesn’t strongly suggest either natural material to me. More the tobacco than the leather. My parfum is not especially vintage (I think it’s from 2003), so that may be a factor. I do get a rich, lightly smoky dose of the classic Caron accord of carnation, amber, and spice.
This suggests today’s plan: Recent Tabac Blond (which I haven’t yet tried) vs. mid-cen EdT. The newer stuff is from Dr. T., who wasn’t knocked out by it, but there have been a few things of hers that she only came to like on me.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
This suggests today’s plan: Recent Tabac Blond (which I haven’t yet tried) vs. mid-cen EdT. The newer stuff is from Dr. T., who wasn’t knocked out by it, but there have been a few things of hers that she only came to like on me.
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I started out with ye olde EdT on my left arm and EdP on the right. The EdP fared better than I expected: it’s a bit “rounder” than the EdT. What it lacks is the birch tar note in the older formulation, but if you don’t like that note—or you’re concerned about birch tar’s carcinogenic nature—you might prefer the new stuff.

Later this evening, I’ll scrub the EdP and try the mid-to-late 1990s parfum.
 

purecaramel

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 9, 2013
View attachment 176726

I started out with ye olde EdT on my left arm and EdP on the right. The EdP fared better than I expected: it’s a bit “rounder” than the EdT. What it lacks is the birch tar note in the older formulation, but if you don’t like that note—or you’re concerned about birch tar’s carcinogenic nature—you might prefer the new stuff.

Later this evening, I’ll scrub the EdP and try the mid-to-late 1990s parfum.
That big EDT looks as if it's from the 50's or 60's.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
That big EDT looks as if it's from the 50's or 60's.
I believe you’re right. I think I dated it back when I got it—I’ll have to search for the post.* I have another the same size with a silver metallic label, probably a bit later than the white label. Maybe I’ll switch to that on the left when I put the parfum on the right.

*Found it: c. 1966

P.S. – Dr. T. is in Lanvin Scandal today, so it’s a serious vintage leather fest around here.
 

N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer

Retired
Basenotes Plus
Jul 1, 2011
I believe you’re right. I think I dated it back when I got it—I’ll have to search for the post. I have another the same size with a silver metallic label, probably a bit later than the white label. Maybe I’ll switch to that on the left when I put the parfum on the right.
What is the size of the bottle?
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
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It’s hard to say how much the differences I perceive are from actual differences and how much from anosmia. This EdT smells something like the last, but less—and I splashed on more than I meant to. The parfum opened with a blast of cinnamon unlike anything in the other formulations. Some leather eventually emerges, but it seems to me at the moment that the later EdP is truer to the old scent—and better—than this parfum.
 

grayspoole

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014
I started out with ye olde EdT on my left arm and EdP on the right. The EdP fared better than I expected: it’s a bit “rounder” than the EdT. What it lacks is the birch tar note in the older formulation, but if you don’t like that note—or you’re concerned about birch tar’s carcinogenic nature—you might prefer the new stuff.

It’s hard to say how much the differences I perceive are from actual differences and how much from anosmia. This EdT smells something like the last, but less—and I splashed on more than I meant to. The parfum opened with a blast of cinnamon unlike anything in the other formulations. Some leather eventually emerges, but it seems to me at the moment that the later EdP is truer to the old scent—and better—than this parfum.
Thanks for posting about your tests of Tabac Blond! If I’ve got this right, you tested...

1. 1960’s EDT (white cap)
2, later EDT (silver cap)
3. an EDP sample (which looked fairly recent in the photo)
4. 1990’s parfum

It seems that you preferred the 1960’s EDT and the recent EDP? I do not have Tabac Blond in a vintage EDT but I really enjoy all of my deep vintage Caron EDT’s (white cap). I often say that every bottle of vintage perfume is different, but with Caron perfumes, the variances can drive you completely batty.

Tabac Blond appears to be discontinued, sadly. Has anyone tried Caron Tabac Noir (2019) or Tabac Noir (2021), which is said to contain all of the trendy notes such as tonka, cedar, papyrus, and pepper?
 

grayspoole

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014
PStoller, your casual comment about birch tar being “carcinogenic” sent me digging for more information. (Really? In addition to anticipating my premature death from huffing nitromusks, I now need to worry about birch tar?!?!)

It seems that there is a “rectified” birch tar ingredient that is safe to use in perfumery. I may get some in my next order from the Perfumers Supply House. No idea what was used in vintage perfumes, probably the carcinogenic stuff. . It is interesting that birch tar is allied to leather simply because Russian tanneries used it back in the day to prepare leather.

Tarry notes are a whole topic in themselves, but certain kinds of fatty tarry soapiness are aligned with leatheriness in my mind. The smell of saddle soap, definitely. (Good saddle soap typically contains neatsfoot oil, a leather softening oil made from the shinbones of cows, which has its own strong smell.) Coal tar (which now sounds perfectly ghastly) had medical benefits and used in soaps and cosmetics for a long time and is still recommended for psoriasis. Neutrogena’s T/Gel shampoo contains 1% coal tar and if you sniff it, you will get a good blast of coal tar. Lelong’s Tailspin has a coal tar note (or it could be birch tar).

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My sense is that all of these greasy, tarry,, soapy notes from the tannery have been significantly changed in contemporary scents, which tend to suggest a leatheriness that comes from chemicals more than animals. The openings moments of Rhinoceros and Peau de Bête felt like this to me, although they eventually settled down to a more naturalistic animalic smell.

Does anyone also like the smell of creosote on fresh railroad ties? (That’ll probably kill me too.)
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Thanks for posting about your tests of Tabac Blond! If I’ve got this right, you tested...

1. 1960’s EDT (white cap)
2, later EDT (silver cap)
3. an EDP sample (which looked fairly recent in the photo)
4. 1990’s parfum

It seems that you preferred the 1960’s EDT and the recent EDP? I do not have Tabac Blond in a vintage EDT but I really enjoy all of my deep vintage Caron EDT’s (white cap). I often say that every bottle of vintage perfume is different, but with Caron perfumes, the variances can drive you completely batty.

Your summary is correct, with the caveat that some anosmia may have colored my perceptions of the silver-cap EDT and parfum. It’s not their fault I tried them second. The silver label still says “85°,” so it can’t be too much newer than the white cap.

My wife bought the parfum from a Caron boutique in NYC. She never felt it lived up to its reputation. I’m not sure how the EdP came into her possession, but she never wore it, and now it’s mine.

It seems that there is a “rectified” birch tar ingredient that is safe to use in perfumery. I may get some in my next order from the Perfumers Supply House. No idea what was used in vintage perfumes, probably the carcinogenic stuff.

Probably. I know Areej le Doré recently released a Cuir de Russie with a warning not to apply to skin because it contains (unrectified) birch tar.

And I also like the smell of creosote.
 

Cook.bot

Flâneuse
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
Another contribution to Friday's sync is

Fifi Chachnil


That is one of the girliest looking perfumes I've seen in ages!

And I also like the smell of creosote.

Me three! And the smell of those shrubs in the high desert regions of California that are called "creosote bushes", and smell very similar to the tar used on railroad ties.
 

purecaramel

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 9, 2013
I believe you’re right. I think I dated it back when I got it—I’ll have to search for the post.* I have another the same size with a silver metallic label, probably a bit later than the white label. Maybe I’ll switch to that on the left when I put the parfum on the right.

*Found it: c. 1966

P.S. – Dr. T. is in Lanvin Scandal today, so it’s a serious vintage leather fest around here.
Probably chock
That is one of the girliest looking perfumes I've seen in ages!



Me three! And the smell of those shrubs in the high desert regions of California that are called "creosote bushes", and smell very similar to the tar used on railroad ties.
Railroad ties, in the heat, are indeed a narcotic note closely associated to my youthful play on the Tracks down the road of my Grandparent,'s home.

A step above is the Creosote note blended with Salti air of the ocean in Wood Pole Wharf moorings.

Similar to these is the Petroleum note of Leaded Gasoline of the 60's.
No wonder the Nostalgia Scent Fahrenheit.
 

grayspoole

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014
Probably. I know Areej le Doré recently released a Cuir de Russie with a warning not to apply to skin because it contains (unrectified) birch tar.
Seems a bit misguided to me. I think there are more meaningful IFRA non-compliance hills to die on. Here’s a wonderfully geeky thread on birch tar from the DIY gang that suggests that even the rectified stuff still packs quite a punch…

Variability of Birch Tar
 

ClockworkAlice

Cakesniffer
Basenotes Plus
Jan 3, 2019
This Friday we are celebrating the work of talented perfumer Dominique Ropion!

You can check the list of perfumes he created here.

He made lots of very well known perfumes, including Alien and flankers, Innocent, Acqua di Gioa, Amor Amor, Jungle, Euphoria, Invictus, Girl of Now, La vie est belle, Olympea, Portrait of a Lady, Une fleur de Cassie, Ysatis, Y, Irresistible, L'Interdit, Messy Sexy Just Rolled Out of Bed and others.

I personally only have one, yet great option - Lalique Le Parfum - so I will wear it on Friday.
 

grayspoole

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014
Eagerly looking forward to the Ropion sync! I have the sense that he is sometimes damned with faint praise, perhaps due to his commercial success and ubiquity, but I think he is a great modern perfumer. He has unmatched skill in composing florals, and he loves a good violet note, as do I.

Although I do not wear them, Carnal Flower and PoaL both update the idea of a Big White Floral and a Big Rose perfume in intriguing ways.

I have bottles or samples of several Ropion compositions…we’ll see what Friday suggests…

Krazy Krizia (vintage)
Amarige (vintage)
Ysatis (vintage)
Superstitious
My Queen
Aimez Moi (1996)
 
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justfoxie

You smell nice
Basenotes Plus
Oct 23, 2018
Huh, I don't own any of his scents, but I do have a sample of Alien wondering around somewhere that I might try to dig out.
I'm tempted though to hop down to my local drugstore and get a bottle of Euphoria which was the last scent my dad bought my mom before he passed away (he had a tradition of buying her perfume every year for Christmas) and so it has a special place in my heart
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Ropion is going to be a challenge. As far as I can tell, he didn’t make anything in my wardrobe. I have a sample of Carnal Flower because my wife hated it, and I haven’t high hopes for my own experience. YSL Y (2017) and Malle/Alber Elbaz Superstitious, both by Ropion, are vividly memorable as amongst the worst fragrances I’ve ever tried.

On the other hand, he gave us Portrait of a Lady and Safari. Dr. T. will be wearing the former, so perhaps I’ll try the latter from her wardrobe.
 

Cook.bot

Flâneuse
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
Ropion is going to be a challenge. [....] YSL Y (2017) and Malle/Alber Elbaz Superstitious, both by Ropion, are vividly memorable as amongst the worst fragrances I’ve ever tried.

Haha! That was my initial reaction to the theme too, and I thought that Safari was going to be my only available choice. But then....

When I was scanning the list of Ropion's creations, it seemed awash in orientals and big, bombastic florals (Portrait of a Lady, Ysatis, Carnal Flower). Not a very fertile field for a green chypre fiend like me to shoose from.

You can count the oriental scents in my collection on one hand; in fact, you can count them on one finger. And to my great surprise, that one oriental is by Ropion: Jungle L'Elephant.

Jungle does't fit very comfortably into the oriental category, being more a precursor of the "oriental gourmand" trend of a decade or two ago. But that big wall of Southeast Asian spices on a bed of tropical fruits and green patchouli is just endlessly seductive to me in the cold winter months. And it leans just far enough into the "slightly tacky" category to give it a fun-loving edge.

In fact, I like it enough to almost forgive Monsieur Ropion for that exhausting barrage of La Vie Est Belle that I seem to encounter everywhere in public. Almost.
 

purecaramel

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 9, 2013
l have three options this week:

Alien
Carnal Flower
And the World is Yours

l'll decide on the day, but l'm leaning towards the third option.

Regarding creosote, l'm definitely not a fan. 😝
A Sheltered and deprived Childhood?
My first reaction was a wrinkle of the nose, however it definitely an acquired taste.
Speaking of acquired taste, my Father spoke fondly of chunks of Tar during the Second World War as Chewing Gum production was sent to the Troops.
 

teardrop

Basenotes Institution
Sep 1, 2010
A Sheltered and deprived Childhood?
My first reaction was a wrinkle of the nose, however it definitely an acquired taste.
Speaking of acquired taste, my Father spoke fondly of chunks of Tar during the Second World War as Chewing Gum production was sent to the Troops.

l assume you're referring to my dislike of creosote, & not my synch choices? ;)

On the contrary, l was fortunate to enjoy my childhood in the seventies, when we had a lot of freedom to roam. As long as we were home by teatime, no one worried. But l remember creosote being used to paint lines on the school sports field, thereby killing the grass, so l guess in my head l associate it with the stench of death. 😦 And it did smell awful.
 

purecaramel

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 9, 2013
I have decants of Olympea and Jasmins Marzipane, and samples of Carnal Flower and Superstitious. Was thinking of revisiting Superstitious but PStoller's post has me reconsidering, since I also wasn't a fan the first time I tried it. Olympea would be an easy reach.

l assume you're referring to my dislike of creosote, & not my synch choices? ;)

On the contrary, l was fortunate to enjoy my childhood in the seventies, when we had a lot of freedom to roam. As long as we were home by teatime, no one worried. But l remember creosote being used to paint lines on the school sports field, thereby killing the grass, so l guess in my head l associate it with the stench of death. 😦 And it did smell awful.

I'm going to roll out the Alien this Friday, with great pleasure!
Right. Alien Essence Absolu for this chap!
I'll be a gooey Vanilla sweet bun all of Friday.
 

sagebrush

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 20, 2017
Nothing by Ropion in my entire Wardrobe. He doesn't seem to have created anything that interested me to try/wear.
Will sit this one out and see what you all are choosing for the Synch.
 

CuddleCat

It smells so good in here
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Aug 20, 2009
I didn't think I owned any but I had Alien Essence Absolue packed away. The jasmine in this is difficult for me to wear although I enjoy the myrrh/incense laced vanilla part of it. I may wear it later on in the late afternoon/evening, it depends on whether my house cools down enough after the hot weather mini heatwave we just went through. Yesterday, we got to a top of 35C (95F) and the previous two days were low 30's (C) so the house is still quite warm this morning and myrrh as a perfume note feels so warming to me.
 

naylor

Basenotes Institution
Oct 24, 2011
Dominique Ropion tomorrow? I don't much care for his work and don't own anything he's created (although I've smelled plenty of it). I guess I'll sit this week out.
 
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