Sultan Pasha's Fragrances

Shadowartisttxl

Well-known member
Mar 25, 2016
New SPA:

MIELFLEUR


orange blossom and rare white florals floating in a everlasting river of golden honey, resins and ambergris.

NOTES

Top: aldehydes, blood orange, almond, heliotrope, lilac, neroli.

Middle: orange blossom, Osmanthus absolute, carnation absolute, jasmine grandiflorum absolute, Ylang Ylang absolute, Tuberose absolute, Jonquil absolute

Base: white ambergris, musk, amber, Siamese benzoin, honey, beeswax absolute, spices, mimosa absolute, tonka absolute, Mysore sandalwood, cedar.
 

Ashfaque

Well-known member
Jul 27, 2017
This sounds really great. Does anyone know how often he changes the offerings in the sample set? Since there's no good way to get individual samples, I've been waiting to order to see if the list rotates.
Sultan doesn't rotate the sample set contents. He usually changes the content for two reasons:
(1) when he runs out of certain composition - or, about to. Usually it doesn't mean he's not making it anymore. Patrons just needs to be a bit more patient - for e.g. Aurum D'Ankhor, Ensar Rose, etc.
(2) when he offers new compositions.

By the way, during it's trial stage Mielfleur was called Royal Bouquet. Looks like I'll have to add at least one more in the next order! I really wanted to buy some film rolls.
 

Jed Or Alive

Well-known member
Nov 8, 2019
Sultan doesn't rotate the sample set contents.

Ah, good to know. thank you. I guess I can stop waiting then and finally order the samples.

After further reading I see that he includes a sample with each attar purchase so that you may try it before cracking the seal on the attar. Even international return shipping is a much lower risk than just blind buying whatever sounds good (which is most of them).
 

Jcelello

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 26, 2019
New SPA:

MIELFLEUR


orange blossom and rare white florals floating in a everlasting river of golden honey, resins and ambergris.

NOTES

Top: aldehydes, blood orange, almond, heliotrope, lilac, neroli.

Middle: orange blossom, Osmanthus absolute, carnation absolute, jasmine grandiflorum absolute, Ylang Ylang absolute, Tuberose absolute, Jonquil absolute

Base: white ambergris, musk, amber, Siamese benzoin, honey, beeswax absolute, spices, mimosa absolute, tonka absolute, Mysore sandalwood, cedar.

This sounds really nice!
 

Dr B1414

Well-known member
Oct 21, 2019
Thanks to a fellow Basenoter, dear feeble_25, I am the fortunate owner of the discontinued Sultan Pash Encens Chypre. Thank you feeble_25 for gifting these two bottles to me. Your gesture is certainly appreciated. He also gifted me another bottle with EC, a Black Truffle macerate, which left me speechless.

Encens Chypre is one of the few SP attars that I was dying to try. I am a huge Chypre lover, so, yeah. I have to say, it is beautiful for sure, but it didn't wow me as I thought it would. It has a perfect balance of opulent, rich, dense, chypre base, and a top and heart that feel quite bright and luminous. I don't detect too many layers and it doesn't shift too much, apart from the natural transition into the base. I like it, and probably would get 1 gram if it ever comes back, but it is not the top 3 Chypres for me.

The second bottle really blew me away though. Apparently, it is a Black Truffle macerate. Wow. I was sure this in an attar. I never thought black truffles have such a complex olfactory profile on their own. To me, they are as complex as many oud oils. The scent doesn't develop as with ouds, but it has so many facets that it makes my head explode. It is a very unique, very addictive, and complex aroma. Creamy, Musky, Spicy, Aromatic, Earthy, Resinous, Powdery. I could go on and on. I have actually done some research on Truffles and now looking for a perfume composition that showcases this note, although I think nothing will come as close to the actual stuff. Does any of you know any perfume composition, attar, from Sultan or any other perfumer/vendor, that uses Truffles as the main player in the composition??? Or does anyone know where I could purchase a similar macerate? I've looked on Mellifluence's shop, as I know he does offer absolutes and macerates, but no luck. Honestly, this macerate on its own is as complex as a perfume or attar.
 

Dr B1414

Well-known member
Oct 21, 2019
There's Truffe Blanche and Truffe Noire from Sultan Pasha. Perhaps someone else can speak on these as I have not tried them. Here is a review of Truffe Blanche from a while back.


Thanks. However, looking at the notes and seeing his review it doesn't really sound like what I am looking for. I think I'll try to ask him directly whether he has any left. Apparently, it is Black Truffle macerated in a mix of Sandalwood and Oppoponax.
 

Proust_Madeleine

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2019
Thanks. However, looking at the notes and seeing his review it doesn't really sound like what I am looking for. I think I'll try to ask him directly whether he has any left. Apparently, it is Black Truffle macerated in a mix of Sandalwood and Oppoponax.

I have a bottle of this stuff and it’s very nice but extremely potent!
 

Shadowartisttxl

Well-known member
Mar 25, 2016
Just placed an order for Basmati Rose, Cuirlilas, Chypre Narcisse, Chypre Chrysantheme and Mielfleur.
Can't wait to get my nose on these new florals! (I've already smelled Cuirlilas, just hadn't gotten around to buying it yet lol)
 

Tosef

Well-known member
Jun 5, 2017
One more thing, by now you should know that SPA is a one-man operation. So, I tend to place my order and forget. Sometime I have even asked him to hold onto my items and send them later. I understand not everyone is like me. But my point is please be patient with him. He is incredibly generous with his patrons.

As I'm new to ordering with Sultan and reading this, I'm just wondering what's like the average time he ships after you ordered? I ordered about two weeks ago but haven't received a tracking number or any shipping notice... Of course I fully understand that a one man operation might take more time. Just wondering what to expect?
 

sultanpasha

Well-known member
Nov 9, 2011
As I'm new to ordering with Sultan and reading this, I'm just wondering what's like the average time he ships after you ordered? I ordered about two weeks ago but haven't received a tracking number or any shipping notice... Of course I fully understand that a one man operation might take more time. Just wondering what to expect?

Hi Tosef
Hope all is well. I’m currently fulfilling all bottle orders now and am hoping that by this Wednesday your order will be sent out. I’m really sorry for the delay, just finished doing all the sample orders which takes up a considerable chunk of my schedule and caused a backlog.
 

Tosef

Well-known member
Jun 5, 2017
Hi Tosef
Hope all is well. I’m currently fulfilling all bottle orders now and am hoping that by this Wednesday your order will be sent out. I’m really sorry for the delay, just finished doing all the sample orders which takes up a considerable chunk of my schedule and caused a backlog.

Dear Sultan thanks a lot for taking the time! I totally understand and no problem at all! Really looking forward trying your attars finally! :smiley:
 

Mr Mitsouko

Active member
Jul 14, 2018
Hello all! Would any of you be so kind as to suggest your favorite SPA's BY SEASON? I know that may not be everyone's thing, and some work well across multiple times, different scent-facets coming to the fore under varying conditions, but I'd be very interested in your experienced opinions. Many thx!
 

Tilt

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2019
Hello all! Would any of you be so kind as to suggest your favorite SPA's BY SEASON? I know that may not be everyone's thing, and some work well across multiple times, different scent-facets coming to the fore under varying conditions, but I'd be very interested in your experienced opinions. Many thx!

Hi Mr Mitsouko,

As you mention, I think SPAs work so well in different seasons; even the ones you might not expect to. I wore Thebes G2 yesterday on a hot Italian evening and it was wonderful. A very pleasant surprise. But here are mine by season:

Summer: Ensar Rose
Autumn: Chypre Chrysanthemum
Winter: Cheval d'Arabie
Spring: Dewaniya
 

Mr Mitsouko

Active member
Jul 14, 2018
Hi Mr Mitsouko,

As you mention, I think SPAs work so well in different seasons; even the ones you might not expect to. I wore Thebes G2 yesterday on a hot Italian evening and it was wonderful. A very pleasant surprise. But here are mine by season:

Summer: Ensar Rose
Autumn: Chypre Chrysanthemum
Winter: Cheval d'Arabie
Spring: Dewaniya

That sounds like a Quattro Stagioni that would have done a Vivaldi proud! I've tried and enjoyed all of those from samples. Thanks! (And good luck to Italy today, on court and pitch!)
 

DavidSG

Active member
Oct 20, 2019
Hello all! Would any of you be so kind as to suggest your favorite SPA's BY SEASON? I know that may not be everyone's thing, and some work well across multiple times, different scent-facets coming to the fore under varying conditions, but I'd be very interested in your experienced opinions. Many thx!

Hi Mr Mitsouko!

To choose one by season is very hard, because there are so many that will do an excellent job. But I will try... My following beloved ones are from his actual lineup he has in stock.

Summer: Cuir de Russie
Autumn: Jardin de Borneo Gardenia
Winter: Cheval d'Arabie
Spring: Thebes (1 or 2)
 

Mr Mitsouko

Active member
Jul 14, 2018
To choose one by season is very hard, because there are so many that will do an excellent job. But I will try... My following beloved ones are from his actual lineup he has in stock.

Summer: Cuir de Russie
Autumn: Jardin de Borneo Gardenia
Winter: Cheval d'Arabie
Spring: Thebes (1 or 2)

Oh, that's interesting. JdBG comes in for me as a summer scent, though I can see the sandalwood and base certainly tilt it to fall :). For what it's worth, here's a quartet I'm considering:

Autumn: Aurum d'Angkhor
Winter: Juriah
Spring: Rêve Narcotique
Summer: Jardin de Borneo Gardenia

You're the second to recommend Cheval d'Arabie for winter, and that does make sense. Edit: I haven't tried Cuir de Russie.
 

DavidSG

Active member
Oct 20, 2019
Oh, that's interesting. JdBG comes in for me as a summer scent, though I can see the sandalwood and base certainly tilt it to fall :). For what it's worth, here's a quartet I'm considering:

Autumn: Aurum d'Angkhor
Winter: Juriah
Spring: Rêve Narcotique
Summer: Jardin de Borneo Gardenia

You're the second to recommend Cheval d'Arabie for winter, and that does make sense. Edit: I haven't tried Cuir de Russie.

For me CdA is very similar to Juriah while Juriah is more citrusy and bright with nearly the same exciting animalic base. So we have a similar taste. :)

In autumn we in Germany have quite warm and windy days with rain and all that autumn-stuff… JdBG is like a good friend in autumns like that. A drop of it after shower in the evening evolves melancolic memories of the nearly gone summer… CdR is far under the radar of the most but it is one of the few SPAs my wife enjoys. Although for me it is a scent of dry earth and rotten leaves with a special twist I like it for the arising moods. I do not apply this beauty in direct sunlight but only in the evening as a scent to enjoy for my own.
 

Mr Mitsouko

Active member
Jul 14, 2018
For me CdA is very similar to Juriah while Juriah is more citrusy and bright with nearly the same exciting animalic base. So we have a similar taste. :)

In autumn we in Germany have quite warm and windy days with rain and all that autumn-stuff… JdBG is like a good friend in autumns like that. A drop of it after shower in the evening evolves melancolic memories of the nearly gone summer… CdR is far under the radar of the most but it is one of the few SPAs my wife enjoys. Although for me it is a scent of dry earth and rotten leaves with a special twist I like it for the arising moods. I do not apply this beauty in direct sunlight but only in the evening as a scent to enjoy for my own.

I'll have to try a sample of CdR. Till now the Chanel's simply trumped everything else by that name for me, and I go to that well for my fix. I like the mood painting and your friend analogy re: JdBG ("Wem der große Wurf gelungen, // Eines Freundes Freund zu sein...").
 

Tilt

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2019
That sounds like a Quattro Stagioni that would have done a Vivaldi proud! I've tried and enjoyed all of those from samples. Thanks! (And good luck to Italy today, on court and pitch!)

Thanks, but I'm an Englishman living in Italy! Awkward position to be in today. I'm keeping a low profile and quietly hoping that football finally comes home.
 

cpatrick44

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Sep 7, 2020
I'd wear one of the fougeres in spring, Nankun Kodo (RIP) for summer, and then basically all of the rest work for fall and winter.

For those of you who have tried Thebes I and II, are they sufficiently different to warrant getting both? Thebes I is my favorite of his, and one of my favorite fragrances of all time, but I always assumed Thebes II was just a more affordable substitute. If it actually has some different facets I think I'll pick it up.
 

DavidSG

Active member
Oct 20, 2019
I'd wear one of the fougeres in spring, Nankun Kodo (RIP) for summer, and then basically all of the rest work for fall and winter.

For those of you who have tried Thebes I and II, are they sufficiently different to warrant getting both? Thebes I is my favorite of his, and one of my favorite fragrances of all time, but I always assumed Thebes II was just a more affordable substitute. If it actually has some different facets I think I'll pick it up.

I have both. You never can have enough of Thebes. I have 3ml of II and 1ml of I (wearing I for special occasions and enjoying the smell of II as a daily scent). For my poor equipped nose I and II are smelling equal. If you have I there is no need for II.
 

cpatrick44

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Sep 7, 2020
I have both. You never can have enough of Thebes. I have 3ml of II and 1ml of I (wearing I for special occasions and enjoying the smell of II as a daily scent). For my poor equipped nose I and II are smelling equal. If you have I there is no need for II.

Thanks for this, that's very helpful!
 

naqshbandi

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2007
Hi everyone
I decided to order Sultan Pasha’s 29 perfume sample set so I am very excited about it. I will give my feedback one each sample once I’ve received and tried them. I do have a question which I hope either SP himself or someone else can answer as I am curious. On his website he says the .
.following in the subsection ‘Classical Occidental Style Attars’: Homages to the legendary perfumes of the past. Does anyone know which of these attars of his corresponds to which legendary perfume?

Thebes (especially!)
Cuir de Russie
Cuirlilas
Étude en Fougere
Fougere Noire
Irisoir
Mielfleur
Vetiver Blanc

Also I guess his Ame Sombre was his tribute to Amouage ?
Thanks!

If SP is reading this I’d love to try your take or tributes to Shalimar, Joy Jean Patou and Chanel No 5 in their original vintage formulations when they too used real natural ingredients too (perhaps they still do to some extent with the exception of animal fragrances?)
 

Tilt

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2019
Hi everyone
I decided to order Sultan Pasha’s 29 perfume sample set so I am very excited about it. I will give my feedback one each sample once I’ve received and tried them. I do have a question which I hope either SP himself or someone else can answer as I am curious. On his website he says the .
.following in the subsection ‘Classical Occidental Style Attars’: Homages to the legendary perfumes of the past. Does anyone know which of these attars of his corresponds to which legendary perfume?

Thebes (especially!)
Cuir de Russie
Cuirlilas
Étude en Fougere
Fougere Noire
Irisoir
Mielfleur
Vetiver Blanc

Also I guess his Ame Sombre was his tribute to Amouage ?
Thanks!

If SP is reading this I’d love to try your take or tributes to Shalimar, Joy Jean Patou and Chanel No 5 in their original vintage formulations when they too used real natural ingredients too (perhaps they still do to some extent with the exception of animal fragrances?)

If I remember correctly:
Thebes = Djedi
Cuir de Russie = the Chanel
Irisoir = Iris Gris (Fath)

I'm sure people on here can tell you the others or correct me if I'm wrong. Perhaps some of the others are general homages to the tradition rather than specific fragrances? It might be worth asking on the Sultan Pasha Facebook page, Sultan himself is there too.
 

cpatrick44

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Sep 7, 2020
Hi everyone
I decided to order Sultan Pasha’s 29 perfume sample set so I am very excited about it. I will give my feedback one each sample once I’ve received and tried them. I do have a question which I hope either SP himself or someone else can answer as I am curious. On his website he says the .
.following in the subsection ‘Classical Occidental Style Attars’: Homages to the legendary perfumes of the past. Does anyone know which of these attars of his corresponds to which legendary perfume?

Thebes (especially!)
Cuir de Russie
Cuirlilas
Étude en Fougere
Fougere Noire
Irisoir
Mielfleur
Vetiver Blanc

Also I guess his Ame Sombre was his tribute to Amouage ?
Thanks!

If SP is reading this I’d love to try your take or tributes to Shalimar, Joy Jean Patou and Chanel No 5 in their original vintage formulations when they too used real natural ingredients too (perhaps they still do to some extent with the exception of animal fragrances?)

Yes, Thebes is absolutely Djedi. If you go on the Djedi fragrantica page there is actually a review SP left after smelling it at the Osmotheque, which is very similar to his Thebes description. Having smelled both, I'd say he did very cool thing here which was to take the general profile and feel of Djedi and then make it his own (more vibrant, more green, a little more alive). Also, there is a sense in which Djedi comes off like a bombastic smirk, like a lady in fur coat out on the town broadcasting to her friends with their beautiful florals "you think you're the motherf***er around here, but I'm the motherf***er." Thebes I think has less of that attitude and is more genuinely sombre.

I've also seen the two other comparisons naqsh mentions.

I can't imagine what on earth the fougeres were inspired by because they seem so sui generis to me.
 

Le vagabond

Well-known member
Mar 31, 2015
I think Thebes and Irisoir are the two that are direct homages, along with Ame Sombre. The others (to my knowledge) are not, but were created through a passion for very vintage scents. The Cuir de Russie I am not sure about, as there are a few old ones. Probably just a general homage to that style of leather.

Thebes is based on a Djedi that was never for sale and probably differed somewhat from the last edition to be sold, as it was created using old style musks, etc.. It would also differ from very old vintages due to ageing, etc..
 

naqshbandi

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2007
thanks for the replies, especially to cpatrick44. So, if Thebes = (homage to) Djedi what does Irisoir equal?
And am I right in reading on this thread somewhere that Are Sombre is his homage to Amouage's Homage attar?

If SP is reading this he should make his own homage to Jean Patou's Joy too. I'd buy it!
 

naqshbandi

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2007
Re: Sultan Pasha's Frangrances

But fear not! ...the version of Âme Sombre I have is a few levels higher/better than Tribute. It's certainly one of the best attars I have experienced, and it's also nuclear strength so the value is decent. The 2-drop sample will probably get me at least 5 wears.

How then do you apply these very potent 2-drop samples? Do you just put your forefinger on the sample vial and tip it over so your finger gets a bit of the juice and then touch your finger on your pulse points?
 

JBS1

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 28, 2016
I think Thebes and Irisoir are the two that are direct homages, along with Ame Sombre. The others (to my knowledge) are not, but were created through a passion for very vintage scents. The Cuir de Russie I am not sure about, as there are a few old ones. Probably just a general homage to that style of leather.

Thebes is based on a Djedi that was never for sale and probably differed somewhat from the last edition to be sold, as it was created using old style musks, etc.. It would also differ from very old vintages due to ageing, etc..

I believe it's Tribute.
I haven't sampled Ame Sombre yet, but I have Tribute.
I do very much enjoy Tribute.
 
Last edited:

Mustafa911

Well-known member
Apr 6, 2015
thanks for the replies, especially to cpatrick44. So, if Thebes = (homage to) Djedi what does Irisoir equal?
And am I right in reading on this thread somewhere that Are Sombre is his homage to Amouage's Homage attar?

If SP is reading this he should make his own homage to Jean Patou's Joy too. I'd buy it!

I have had tribute and sombre . Tribute is much better but nothing too special . If I am you will pass on sultan pasha version.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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