Sultan Pasha's Fragrances

Dorje123

Well-known member
Feb 15, 2011
I'm late to the party but what smells so good in here? :smiley: Looking forward to try BNer recommendations.

It depends what you like, my personal favorites are:

- Ambre du Soleil, amazing frankincense. Feels light, lots of citrus topnotes in the frankincense blend. Also a diffusive radiance thanks to ambergris.

- Ame Sombre, if you like Tribute, Sultan Pasha's take on the blend is great, especially the version with oud smoke enflurage (?) There are 3 versions ranging from more affordable to OMG.

-Pure Incense, it's being finalized as we speak but I can say from trying an earlier version it's amazing

-Aurum d'Angkhor, rich florals, musk, oud, ambergris, henna, spices... a ghaliyah type fragrance with a modern, bright touch.

-Cheval d'Arabie, beautiful blend of rose, white floral and animalics

-Al Hareem, a very well done, more modern smelling take on a rose, oud and musk attar

-Le Fougre, old school fougere, very nice....

-Reve Narcotique and Al Hareem Blanc, if you like tuberose and gardenia, these are a must-try and share a lot of similarities with JAR's Bolt of Lightning and Jardenia, both using what's probably some very expensive natural floral EOs and absolutes.

-Incense Royale, the title says it all :)

Prices vary from very affordable (Le Fougre and Ambre du Soleil) to unbelievably expensive (Aurum, Ame Oud version) but all are a great value for what you're getting. He has a decent range of offerings and I can't say I personally like everything but they are all good.
 

Diamondflame

Frag Bomber 1st Squadron
Basenotes Plus
Jun 28, 2009
Sounds amazing. Thanks for those insights, Dorje123. I've decided to get his 40-sampler set to find my favorites. Along with samples of the 29 discontinued Amouage attars, I reckon I'll be in perfume heaven over the next few weeks. :smiley:
 

Le vagabond

Well-known member
Mar 31, 2015
I think you made a great choice with the samples, Diamondflame :)

My favourites are: Jardin de Borneo, Claire de Lune/Sambac Regale, Cuir au Miel, Nectare, Carnival d'Havana, Shadee, Ocean of Flowers, Cafe Ambre Noir, Arabesque noir, Al Hojari, Cheval d'Arabie, Jardin de Minuit, Equis, Colour Purple and Oud Occidental.

Most reviewed on previous pages.

Oh, and while I'm here, a big thank you to Dorje123 for starting the thread. I wouldn't have known about Sultan's perfume oils without it.
 
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Le vagabond

Well-known member
Mar 31, 2015
Back with the double post with my final sample notes. A very pure frankincense fragrance which makes me feel uplifted.

26 - Al Hojari right wrist
Strange opening, unknown fruit: orange or yellow, rich and creamy and a little zingy, refreshing, green, very natural. Like being in between the leaves of a soapy, sparkly fruit tree. Cleansing; purifying.
Kumquat?

I haven't tried kumquats in ages, that was just a wild guess whilst testing.
 
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theladymay

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 6, 2015
I will keep this short as I'm not feeling well but I recently got some of Sultan Pasha's creations and I have to put my two cents in. This stuff is amazing. I got:

Ambre du Soleil - Radiant, bright, lovely frankincense. Gorgeous.
Ame Sombre - Saffron, rose, amber, jasmine, tobacco, incense, and so much more. Just utterly wonderful - especially on my husband.
La Fougre - A surprise. SP is terribly generous. This is an awesome take on traditional fougeres. I want my husband to wear this all the time.
Resine Precieux - Resin heaven. I don't even know what to say about this - it's my favorite of what I've tried and they're all really excellent. If you love resins, try to get some of this, it's just incredible.

I'm still waiting for Incense Royale so can't say anything about it but I would be willing to bet it's going to be insanely good. He also included a host of samples that I've yet to get to. If you're male don't be put off by my being female and loving these. I think all 4 lean towards the traditional 'masculine' side. I'm one of those ladies who doesn't have a problem with that, and these smell wonderful on me. But there's nothing in any of these four that will make you question whether they are too feminine.
 

trucupey20

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jan 3, 2014
Hello everybody, I need some help here, would you guys recommend to get the sample pack of 40 some 2 drops of all of his creations or go for something like Incense Royale, I would like to try some of his oils, Thanks to all.
 

Dorje123

Well-known member
Feb 15, 2011
Hello everybody, I need some help here, would you guys recommend to get the sample pack of 40 some 2 drops of all of his creations or go for something like Incense Royale, I would like to try some of his oils, Thanks to all.

I'd say the sample pack is the way to go... there are a lot of different and unique oils offered and it's hard to say what you'll enjoy.

SnifferGN, you can send him a PM here. If you click on a username an option to send a PM will appear...
 

sultanpasha

Well-known member
Nov 9, 2011
Howdy everyone, hope all is well :-D
Time for some good news and some sad news but mainly great news!
Firstly I would like to thank Dorje123 and everyone else for kindly carrying on contributing your thoughts on my beloved compositions here and as La Vagabond so elequently mentioned my big heartfelt thank you to Dorje123 for creating this thread and letting the world know more about my artistic creations and helping me to take everything to the next level.

Now let's get the bad news out of the way first....the following blends have run out:

Prototype Pure Incense
Shadee Version 2
Jardin D'Borneo
Oceans of Flowers.

The 2nd variant of Shadee will be only made on order as the base is ready to be used (has been macerating since 2012 ;-) ) however I've no Linden Blossom left and the particular species of Linden blossom absolute I used in this composition is only available in a couple of places where it's rather expensive and the price has gone up, thus I had to increase the price of Shadee Version 2 as well.

Now Good news :-D
(1) All the ingredients for pure incense have arrived and I've created a fresh perfected batch! Expect it to be a lot smoother than the prototype and stronger.
(2) Although the first batch of Ocean of Flowers has finished I've created a even richer and slightly reformulated 2nd batch. The top notes have been changed as I've used Gardenia, Tuberose enfleurage, and heliotrope.
(3) Jardin D'Borneo has sold out however using the same formulation but with a different top notes I will be creating two Variants of JDB one will be a rich tuberose enfleurage as a top note whilst the second will contain White Ginger Lily at the top....and in the base I've changed the sandalwood to a Wild Mysore Sandalwood (yes it's wild! You read it right ;-) I basically managed to acquire this rare unicorns horn last month and is absolutely shockingly beautiful with Santalols at 92%)
(4)God Willing a fully operational website should be ready by January 2016 and help things go smoothly rather than using EBay as a platform.
 

sultanpasha

Well-known member
Nov 9, 2011
Dear LadyMay
Just wanted say thank you so much for contributing although unfortunately you're currently not feeling very well. I pray for your speedy recovery and hope things become a lot more easier.
 

sultanpasha

Well-known member
Nov 9, 2011
-Reve Narcotique and Al Hareem Blanc, if you like tuberose and gardenia, these are a must-try and share a lot of similarities with JAR's Bolt of Lightning and Jardenia, both using what's probably some very expensive natural floral EOs and absolutes. .


Hey Dorje forgot to mention I managed to try all of the JAR perfumes said last week and I was soooooo shocked! I smelt their Bolt of Lightning and I was speechless! The tuberose used was a carbon copy of mine and for couple of seconds I was left confused thinking I was smelling one of my own tuberose blends until the middle notes started to evolve. Perhaps it may be that JAR and I are using the same source :-D But believe me when I say it was a pleasant shock! All of the JARS are amazing by the way, very well composed and seems all natural however across all six I've tried I felt there wasn't enough variety as they all had a similar signature use of the same materials across the six. All six were using the same carnation and patchouli or rosewood in different combinations. Out of all of them I really enjoyed Jardinia the most.
 

Diamondflame

Frag Bomber 1st Squadron
Basenotes Plus
Jun 28, 2009
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, sultanpasha. I received your 40 + Amouage 29 samples in good order last week. Alas I was down with a bout of flu that left my sinuses all clogged up for a week. Will start my sampling as soon as I get my nose back to operational condition seeing how precious little of each blend I have to enjoy. Btw there is a little bottle that came in the package but it isn't labelled. Any idea which blend this could be?
 

Le vagabond

Well-known member
Mar 31, 2015
Hi Sultan, great news about the website, and I really look forward to trying the new JDB variants. I don't know white ginger lily but it sounds exciting. I have been learning about enfleurage since you mentioned it the other day, what a fascinating technique.

Also, very interested in smelling the new variant of Ocean of Flowers.

P.S. Your Jardin D'Borneo, which I am wearing right now, definitely reminds me, in part, of the original Fougere Royale (Osmotheque formulation). It has a similar floral, light grey green fern-like creaminess that wasn't translated to the typical male fougeres of the 70s, for example (these seem a bit darker). Yours has many other deeper aspects too, but that creamy greenness within definitely reminded me of the mother of fougeres.
 
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Dorje123

Well-known member
Feb 15, 2011
Hey Dorje forgot to mention I managed to try all of the JAR perfumes said last week and I was soooooo shocked! I smelt their Bolt of Lightning and I was speechless! The tuberose used was a carbon copy of mine and for couple of seconds I was left confused thinking I was smelling one of my own tuberose blends until the middle notes started to evolve. Perhaps it may be that JAR and I are using the same source :-D But believe me when I say it was a pleasant shock! All of the JARS are amazing by the way, very well composed and seems all natural however across all six I've tried I felt there wasn't enough variety as they all had a similar signature use of the same materials across the six. All six were using the same carnation and patchouli or rosewood in different combinations. Out of all of them I really enjoyed Jardinia the most.


I agree wrt the JAR fragrances, I tried BOL, Jardenia and one other that skips my mind right now. They are really nice, it is interesting how close you got to them with some of your blends. I do think you've found the same supplier of floral materials... whatever it is, it smells very much like live tuberose.
 

sultanpasha

Well-known member
Nov 9, 2011
Hey everyone! Hope all is well!

Diamondflame hope you recover soon from the flu. I'm very happy to hear you received the parcel......The 3ml bottle I sent you was my last bottle of the prototype Pure Incense which I sent you to show my appreciation for your custom....I didn't write anything on the bottle so you may be surprised to see what it was and you would ask me ;-)
Each of the vials contains minimum 1-2 drops of each composition however some I gave 3-4 drops just so that there's is more for you to try. From the two drops you will get at least five rationed wearings to fully evaluate each composition.

La Vagabond sir Houbigant's Fougre Royale is very close to my heart as well as Gucci Nobile, both to me are the finest Fougres. I may have mentioned in a post few pages back that at the core of JDB is Ensaroud's Bois de Borneo which is an Oud oil from Borneo as well as a wonderful material from Madagascar called Katrafay. Katrafay is an incredibly complex material that's is very long lasting and has a number of facets from fresh crisp greens, turmeric like spiciness and a light creaminess. These two materials along with the nutty tonka and Haitian Vetiver just has a truly magical effect! What I will do is along with your recent order I will include a few drops of most of JDB's components so you may acquaint yourself better ;-)

Dorje123 in most floral blends I use a combination of tuberose absolute and enfleurage to give the total spectrum of the flower thus you have that effect.

Iris&oud the ones you mentioned and more are ready!!! ;-D
 
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Le vagabond

Well-known member
Mar 31, 2015
La Vagabond sir Houbigant's Fougre Royale is very close to my heart as well as Gucci Nobile, both to me are the finest Fougres. I may have mentioned in a post few pages back that at the core of JDB is Ensaroud's Bois de Borneo which is an Oud oil from Borneo as well as a wonderful material from Madagascar called Katrafay. Katrafay is an incredibly complex material that's is very long lasting and has a number of facets from fresh crisp greens, turmeric like spiciness and a light creaminess. These two materials along with the nutty tonka and Haitian Vetiver just has a truly magical effect! What I will do is along with your recent order I will include a few drops of most of JDB's components so you may acquaint yourself better ;-)

Thanks so much Sultan, I have never known a perfume to feel so 'alive'. It will be fascinating to smell its individual elements on their own, truly.
 

noitsnotme

Well-known member
Oct 27, 2014
Wearing a small smear of Incense Royale on my forearm today, and while it is too early for a proper opinion, I must say this is undoubtedly one of the most complex and many-faceted fragrances I've ever worn in my 30-or-so years of acquaintance with perfumes. It's absolutely lovely so far, such a subtle contrast between the sweeter and darker nuances.
 

sultanpasha

Well-known member
Nov 9, 2011
Wearing a small smear of Incense Royale on my forearm today, and while it is too early for a proper opinion, I must say this is undoubtedly one of the most complex and many-faceted fragrances I've ever worn in my 30-or-so years of acquaintance with perfumes. It's absolutely lovely so far, such a subtle contrast between the sweeter and darker nuances.


Wow! Noitsnotme that truly is a praise indeed! Thank you kind sir and I'm truly humbled! :-D
I hope the samples I sent you have a similar or greater impact! :)
 

Le vagabond

Well-known member
Mar 31, 2015
This one is not mentioned yet, I think. So here are my notes on Colour Purple. Hello Silvia :)

39 – Colour purple left wrist

Lovely opening: nose-clearing and positive, floral and orange/purple/blue fruitiness. A tiny bit of spiciness. Later in: deep sexy Poison-like purpleness, but counterbalanced with an enchanting sharp floral breeziness. A purple gem surrounded by sapphires and diamonds. Glamorous.
 
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pinxo

Member
Oct 13, 2012
Hi Monsieur Vagabond, (I,m Silvia, :vrolijk_26:) .
Thanks for your posts about Sultan's attars, it has been great reading you while I was smelling them. I have discovered the amazing sample set and my top are:
AURUM D'ANUKCHOR
ENSAR ROSE
CUIR AU MIEL ROSE
-REVE NARCOTIQUE
-AME SOMBRE OUD INFUSION
-REVE SALOME
SANDALWOOD MYSORE

If I was rich I would buy all of them!!! :evil: For sure I will go for one or two , yeahhh!! (more in the future ;) )
 
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Le vagabond

Well-known member
Mar 31, 2015
Hi pinxo, thanks, it is definitely a privilege to wear such beautiful attars. Fragrances that create strong memories and that I crave for later (even ones I didn't initially like so much). Like this one.

Âme Sombre Oud notes (mid 2015 version):

Deep gold light beam with farm animals, beautiful old ladies and drunken sailors flying within it. Very rich adorned but not heavy.
 
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pinxo

Member
Oct 13, 2012
On me Ame Sombre oud infusion is incense with rose and tabac, i can see the patchouli at the beginning and hours later I',m wrapped with a resinous woody incens. It last hours and I could even smell it the next day in a very subtle way. This will be my first Sultan's Attar :) What was your first attar from Sultan Monsieur Vagabond??
 

Le vagabond

Well-known member
Mar 31, 2015
I totally agree with your notes, pinxo: slightly smoky incense, tobacco, rose... that luscious rose immediately makes my mind wander. Very nice.

My first Sultan attars are Jardin de Borneo, Shadee and Ocean of Flowers. The last two are supposed to be for my wife but Shadee will be looked after by me :) She had the audacity to mildly disrespect it on first sniff... but after 20 minutes she was lost in a Belle Époque jasmine and sandalwood haze.
 

ClaireV

Well-known member
Mar 25, 2014
Sultan Pasha is a great guy, and a great attar maker! Thanks to him, I was able to sample all of those rare Amouage attars that are fast disappearing into the mists of time....anyway, a wonderful guide and mentor for me on my journey through the often confusing world of CPOs, attars, ittars, oud, oud mukhallats, etc. Now I have his own CPOs to sample. I've been told to start at number 1, and I am nothing if not obedient, so here is my review on Aurum D'Angkhor.

It's the first CPO in the pack that I tested, and right now I'm worried that nothing will be able to top this for me. Aurum is just mind-blowing. I trudge through an awful lot of the lower-priced Arabian oils and attars (as well as some very high-priced ones), and it’s rare that any of them stand out to me as being worth the skin time. What I mean is that there’s an awful lot of dodgy stuff out there in the CPO world, and with price not always correlating to quality or complexity, you have to have a lot of time and money to hone in on the good ones.

Or maybe it’s just me. Plenty of fellows (and gals) here on Basenotes seem to go straight to the super high end stuff, such as the pure oud oils and oud mixes (mukhallats) being sold by Ensar Oud and Agar Aura. But the price of entry for that serious oud scares me, so I mainly just lurk in the waters of whatever samples of Ajmal, Al Haramain, and Amouage CPOs that I get my hands on, lazily hoping to somehow stumble upon the attar that seems made just for me.

Aurum D’Angkhor, though, is special. It blew my socks off with its depth, complexity, and beauty. It contains a small amount of the famous Ensar Oud Encens D’Angkor in the basenotes, which is a smooth, fruity Cambodi oud oil with soft, cozy wood aspects. But the “Aurum” in Sultan Pasha’s remix means “Golden” and indeed that’s the color that comes across in this blend – golden, dusty saffron, a light smooth oud with the timbre of polished oak floors, smoke, honey, henna, and a haze of sweet jasmine and rose.

The topnote of Aurum D’Angkhor showcases the oud, and for a few minutes it has a ripe, barnyard aroma to it – not unpleasantly animalic, for example nowhere near the sour bile facets of a Hindi oud oil – but it definitely recalls the soft, ripe smell of fresh cow silage, a sort of liquid, sweet aroma that oozes across the room. I find this smell to be warm and nostalgic, because I grew up around farms.

The cow pat note disappears quickly, allowing a soft, spicy brown leather to take shape, with faintly indolic jasmine floating in and out. To my nose, saffron plays a pivotal role here, called on to bring out all its strange facets at once - the leather, the exotic dust, the sweetness, the faintly floral "mouth-feel", fiery red spice, and a certain medicinal, iodine-like twang. The oud and the saffron create this deep, deep multi-levered scent profile suggestive of old oak floors, spicy brown leather, and dusty fruit skins (plums and figs). It is such a smooth, woody, refined aroma – it has the depth of real oud, but none of the challenging aspects.

Now, as to the smoke – this varied greatly on me from one test to another. At first, I found the opening and heart notes so smoky I felt sure there had to be either a touch of birch tar or cade oil in the topnotes, or at least a hefty dose of labdanum in the basenotes. At times, I felt that the smokiness was almost exactly like the rough, smoky Balsamo della Mecca, which is primarily a labdanum-focused scent, with dusty cinnamon (Siam benzoin) and frankincense. During my second test, I couldn’t detect as much smokiness, but instead I picked up on the honey (a sort of toffee-like, ambery sweetness) and a hint of the hay-like dustiness of henna.

In the base, I pick up a woody resin, kind of nutty, but also kind of granular, like coffee grounds. It may also be the musk, because some suede scents, like Tom Ford Tuscan Leather, Oud Saphir, Black Suede, and Al Haramain Tajibni, use a combination of a vegetal musk like ambrette, saffron, and cedar/woods to create a sort of musky, resinous suede effect. Whatever it is, it’s great. GBP 400 for 3ml, though…..it’s too much for me personally, but I have no doubt that it’s worth it.
 

sultanpasha

Well-known member
Nov 9, 2011
Sultan Pasha is a great guy, and a great attar maker! Thanks to him, I was able to sample all of those rare Amouage attars that are fast disappearing into the mists of time....anyway, a wonderful guide and mentor for me on my journey through the often confusing world of CPOs, attars, ittars, oud, oud mukhallats, etc. Now I have his own CPOs to sample. I've been told to start at number 1, and I am nothing if not obedient, so here is my review on Aurum D'Angkhor.

It's the first CPO in the pack that I tested, and right now I'm worried that nothing will be able to top this for me. Aurum is just mind-blowing. I trudge through an awful lot of the lower-priced Arabian oils and attars (as well as some very high-priced ones), and it’s rare that any of them stand out to me as being worth the skin time. What I mean is that there’s an awful lot of dodgy stuff out there in the CPO world, and with price not always correlating to quality or complexity, you have to have a lot of time and money to hone in on the good ones.

Or maybe it’s just me. Plenty of fellows (and gals) here on Basenotes seem to go straight to the super high end stuff, such as the pure oud oils and oud mixes (mukhallats) being sold by Ensar Oud and Agar Aura. But the price of entry for that serious oud scares me, so I mainly just lurk in the waters of whatever samples of Ajmal, Al Haramain, and Amouage CPOs that I get my hands on, lazily hoping to somehow stumble upon the attar that seems made just for me.

Aurum D’Angkhor, though, is special. It blew my socks off with its depth, complexity, and beauty. It contains a small amount of the famous Ensar Oud Encens D’Angkor in the basenotes, which is a smooth, fruity Cambodi oud oil with soft, cozy wood aspects. But the “Aurum” in Sultan Pasha’s remix means “Golden” and indeed that’s the color that comes across in this blend – golden, dusty saffron, a light smooth oud with the timbre of polished oak floors, smoke, honey, henna, and a haze of sweet jasmine and rose.

The topnote of Aurum D’Angkhor showcases the oud, and for a few minutes it has a ripe, barnyard aroma to it – not unpleasantly animalic, for example nowhere near the sour bile facets of a Hindi oud oil – but it definitely recalls the soft, ripe smell of fresh cow silage, a sort of liquid, sweet aroma that oozes across the room. I find this smell to be warm and nostalgic, because I grew up around farms.

The cow pat note disappears quickly, allowing a soft, spicy brown leather to take shape, with faintly indolic jasmine floating in and out. To my nose, saffron plays a pivotal role here, called on to bring out all its strange facets at once - the leather, the exotic dust, the sweetness, the faintly floral "mouth-feel", fiery red spice, and a certain medicinal, iodine-like twang. The oud and the saffron create this deep, deep multi-levered scent profile suggestive of old oak floors, spicy brown leather, and dusty fruit skins (plums and figs). It is such a smooth, woody, refined aroma – it has the depth of real oud, but none of the challenging aspects.

Now, as to the smoke – this varied greatly on me from one test to another. At first, I found the opening and heart notes so smoky I felt sure there had to be either a touch of birch tar or cade oil in the topnotes, or at least a hefty dose of labdanum in the basenotes. At times, I felt that the smokiness was almost exactly like the rough, smoky Balsamo della Mecca, which is primarily a labdanum-focused scent, with dusty cinnamon (Siam benzoin) and frankincense. During my second test, I couldn’t detect as much smokiness, but instead I picked up on the honey (a sort of toffee-like, ambery sweetness) and a hint of the hay-like dustiness of henna.

In the base, I pick up a woody resin, kind of nutty, but also kind of granular, like coffee grounds. It may also be the musk, because some suede scents, like Tom Ford Tuscan Leather, Oud Saphir, Black Suede, and Al Haramain Tajibni, use a combination of a vegetal musk like ambrette, saffron, and cedar/woods to create a sort of musky, resinous suede effect. Whatever it is, it’s great. GBP 400 for 3ml, though…..it’s too much for me personally, but I have no doubt that it’s worth it.

Claire you absolute legend you! Can't thank you enough for the beautiful review and especially in your blog! Just truly humbled to hear that my beloved Aurum D alongside Amouage's Badr Al Badour came at the top of everything you have tried so far over the years. It truly is an honour indeed! God Bless you!
 

ClaireV

Well-known member
Mar 25, 2014
Ensar Rose: Just beautiful! To my nose, this is a very bright Ta'ifi rose oil, so sharply green and lemony it makes you want a glass of water. The typical characteristics of a good, strong rose oil are all here - the very green, herbal aspects (it almost smells like geranium or angelica) and the citronellol (which at times smells perilously close to citronella or floor cleaner). The sharp, lemony-herbal tang reminds me of the Al Ta'if Rose Nakhb Al Arous by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi, so I am just going to repeat what I said in my review of that one, because in the first phase of Ensar Rose, they smell very similar: "The two main 'flavor' constituents of rose are actually geraniol and citronellol - these smell sharply 'green' and sharply 'citric' respectively. And when I smell Al Ta'if Rose Nakhb Al Arous close up, I mostly smell a piercing lemony note and a lurid green note. These notes present so bright and acid, it is almost like you just peeled a citron. The smell is blindingly bright, sharp, thin, almost animalic in its spiciness and greenness." Yes, animalic and piercingly green/lemony - I stand by that! It is very refreshing and also strong.

Then there is a series of transitions that take the sharpness of the rose oil down into a creamy, almost chalky base (like cream soda). The rose is still very much present, but it is creamier now, and more like wine, so perhaps rosa damascena is in the base. I would guess that the base has a significant amount of sandalwood to create this creamy effect in the base. It doesn't smell like vanilla, but there is a nutty, creamy amber and sandalwood combination (I think) that is nicely round and just sweet enough to pare down the sharp edges on that Ta'ifi rose. I like this very much, and I think it would be brilliant in summer as it is a very fresh-smelling, citrusy rose with a soft, long-lasting base that never runs too sweet or heavy.

I presume, given the name "Ensar Rose" that there is some of Ensar's oud in this blend too....but I don't smell it at all!
 

sultanpasha

Well-known member
Nov 9, 2011
Hey Claire :)
Here are the notes for Ensar Rose hun!

T: Rosa Alba Otto, Madagascar Vanilla

M: Haitian Vetiver, Honey, Bulgarian rose Absolute

B: aged Mysore Sandalwood, ambergris, Amber, Oud Yunus by Ensar Oud

This blend is very rose centric and I just wanted to highlight the crown of the composition which is the white Rose otto otherwise known as Rosa Alba which is a super rare rose otto to get. Currently in the market only the CO2 extract of this most special of roses are found however I was blessed to have been able to track down an artisan who had the otto. The rosa Alba to me is just about the finest otto around...even better to me than the typical taifi of Persian ottos that's around as its so sweet creamy and tranquil.
Therefore to highlight this unique sweet creamy facet of this rose I paired it with the creamiest sandalwood and finest Haitian vetiver I could get hold of and just added a tiny amount of vanilla to smoothen the transitions between the roses and the creamy bases. I further added the Oud Yunus to act strictly as a fixative alongside the ambergris. I used Yunus as to me it's the smoothest Oud I know with a luxurious creamy golden aura that projects after many hours once the animalic notes subsides when used on its own....however I discovered on dilution Oud Yunus just has the long lasting creamy golden Amber effect singled out which is just what I needed.
 
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Dorje123

Well-known member
Feb 15, 2011
I hope everyone has had a good holiday season!

I've been enjoying Âme Sombre Oud, Ambre du Soleil, Cheval d'Arabie, Le Fougre and the Incense fragrance quite a bit, and I've also tried Enigma Intense again, this is growing on me... it's a challenging fragrance, very unique and off-beat, but it definitely has it's charms. I wasn't sure I'd like it at first, in fact did not... but after some time and a few tries I'm starting to come around.
 

sultanpasha

Well-known member
Nov 9, 2011
Dorje! Seasons greetings!! All is well here!
I'm glad you got to appreciate the Enigma Intense eventually :-D the secret with this composition is definitely the age ol adage of 'less is more' and more is just a bushfire! :-D it's all about the dosing
 

Safiy

Well-known member
Dec 2, 2015
Woooohoooo. I just bought some Enigma Intense and Resine Precious. I bid on them and lost on one and he gave me a second chance offer so I could still get it. Awesome!! He was very patient and helpful too. I'm very excited as I finally get to smell and wear a quality attar. The description and reviews has me very eager to wear these. I'll definitely purchase others and he also has my favorite scent on earth on-hand. Mysore Sandalwood :) Now in the same way a child would stare at a sales paper all day imagining how fun it's gonna be to play with his toys once he opens his presents, I shall sit here and read the reviews and info in anticipation of Christmas... I mean in anticipation of my oils arriving :D
 
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iris&oud

Well-known member
Dec 17, 2012
Sampling a few new things from Sultan lately, so I will make a few brief remarks.

Amber Narcotique - A very fuzzy, slightly dirty/animalic amber base, almost meaty. There is also a great deal of spice in the blend, and it ultimately did not work for me for this reason. I see this smelling lovely on a man in cold weather.

Ambre Sauvage (which I understand is to be re-named) - The first thing I wrote down was "leather". This is a new handbag type of leather, very smooth, some brightness like citrus in the beginning. Nothing like the dusty, dark roundess of a Cuir de Russie for example. I enjoyed this one immediately and found it uplifting, which is unusual for leather fragrances, as I usually find them a bit morose and heavy.

Japanese Incense - I love incense fragrances in general and SP's incense fragrances in particular. I think I own a FB of each of his incense variations. I have no experience with Japanese incense so I cannot comment on whether the fragrance is similar or not. I can say this is a sweeter and spicier incense. The spices remind me a bit of the mix of scents I get upon entering my local health food market. There is a base of woodiness, with just a hint of smoke. Resinous, warm and completely unisex.

A general comment about SP's work. I frequently find his creations feature a juxtaposition of notes that at first seem dissonant, but he has a way of blending to make harmony. I feel that way about the following two scents:

Amberose - At first glance, amber and rose are a rather traditional pairing. In this case, the amber is dirty and animalic, while the rose is sweet, shy and pink. Interestingly, I find the amber more prominent out of the gate, and the rose blooms later. A light dusting of spices appear in the background. I find this very feminine.

Encens Chypre - When I saw this name, I was wondering what on earth to expect, but this is exactly as advertised. At first I was struggling with the citrus, oakmoss, anise aspect over the incense base. Over the first half hour though, the citrus burns off, the anise recedes, and the oakmoss sweetens and becomes round and dusty. The result is the dusty oakmoss with just hints of wood and smoke in the background. Very foresty in tone. This would be devastating on a man, and I think would appeal to those that enjoyed SP's La Fougere.
 
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trucupey20

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jan 3, 2014
Well for now I just order Enigma Intense won in a bid, I would like to hear a little big more about this one, from those that has try already, planning on to buy the sample pack of all his offerings, Thanks to everyone this tread is very good and informative I really appreciated the comments, thanks again.
 

Le vagabond

Well-known member
Mar 31, 2015
Got the newest samples in and can't wait to try them all :)

Nankun (Japanese Incense):

Spicy yellow earth. Reminiscent of the remains of my Shoyeido incense, but this one is less floral and seductive than what I use. Nankun proposes an extremely contemplative route which is not the norm in perfumery where the aim is usually to seduce. Far from the world of scented gloves and boudoirs, this takes one back to sweet pungent trees and seeds of the earth. For monks and samurai.

Notes: Mysore sandalwood, ambrette, musk, clove, star anise, cinnamon, cedar, Hinoki, and smoke from sinking grade Oud chips.
 
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Safiy

Well-known member
Dec 2, 2015
I have to have this fragrance. I burn Shoyeido and Baieido incense also BTW. Got some rare Baiyeido one too :)
 

Le vagabond

Well-known member
Mar 31, 2015
Cool, I know Nankun is actually a Shoyeido incense, reddish beige in colour. I wish I knew how hinoki smells because I suspect it is prominent.
 

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