SOTD: Monday, 6th September, 2021

hednic

Well-known member
Oct 25, 2007
Oakwood Absolute Oil by Clive Christian


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JON RODGERS

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
Good morning all !. teardrop, enjoy your fortnight's holiday. Richly deserved, IMHO :thumbsup:


Frederic Malle - L'Eau D'Hiver.


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Cook.bot

Common Lackey
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
I need something today that's... out of the ordinary. It feels like I'm in a rut, or rather, several ruts -- in the things I read & watch, eat & drink, the perfumes I wear. If it wasn't still hot I'd go with something wild like Jungle L'Elephant or Dzongkha. But heat's still a factor, so I guess I'll just step outside my comfort zone into a vanilla rose. One that Luca Turin describes as having "vivid eyes, a ready smile, and pretty dancing feet." And one whose zany Memphis bottle always cheers me up.

Tocade

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ExtremeK

Some of my paths in life are dirt
Basenotes Plus
Jul 5, 2010
It sounds like you're well on your way to enjoying your time off, teardrop! May the rest of it provide whatever rest and relaxation you need! :kiss:

ComDiva, I had no idea I was anyone's iris attempt inspiration :grin: I think one of the reasons I had so much trouble initially is that many of the iris-centric/forward fragrances everyone else loves just don't work on my skin (except for Infusion d'Iris!) This morning, inspired by YOU :kiss:, I have dug out several mostly random iris samples to revisit: Irissss, Iris Silver Mist, Iris Nobile, and Incarnata (Anatole Lebreton). Results:

  • Irisss (carrot seeds, carnation, bergamot, iris, violet, rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, vetiver, musk, benzoin, cedar, and incense) - I think I have the current reformulated version. I can get whiffs of a plush, iris-y softness (which is one of the things I imagine its adherents respond to), but on me, Irisss shifts between "meh" and Play-Doh. I know my bank account appreciates that my skin transforms it from a widely-regarded HG iris to something that pales in comparison to how Infusion d'Iris EDP (and the Absolue) perform on my skin. My skin is weird.
  • Iris Silver Mist (the full monty iris and ?? [vetiver, galbanum, musk, incense, cedar, clove, benzoin, sandalwood, per Fragrantica]) - It's a masterpiece of the Serge Lutens line. My scent sibling, Jon Rodgers, adores it. I should love this one. I don't. I hate it. Whatever slight metallic note other people perceive is amplified to Metallica concert levels on my skin. It's appalling.
  • Iris Nobile (iris, star anise, bergamot, mandarin orange, orange, tuberose, orange blossom, mimosa, ylang-ylang, hibiscus, cedar, vanilla, amber) - false advertising that would make Le Labo envious. I just get a lot of powdery orange blossom.
  • Incarnata (raspberry, violet, rhododendron, lipstick, iris, myrrh, rose, amber, suede, benzoin, vanilla) - OK, *this* one is still so weirdly awesome. It's been on and off my wishlist at least 10 times. It basically gives iris a creepy, Wuthering Heights overlay that emphasizes the gray of iris. It's starts off as a lipstick-y iris -- but the sort where you've found a Chanel lipstick in an old handbag in the back of the closet from 25 years ago. Still recognizable as lipstick, still recognizable as iris. But if you extend the time you sniff it, that's when it morphs into this gray, vaguely cyanotic iris that's utterly fascinating and just this side of unhinged. Nicole Kidman in The Others would have worn Incarnata. Back on the wishlist it goes. I'm not sure if anyone else likes it, but, man, I do. A lot.

Oh, a quick comment about Une Fleur de Cassie - you should sample it, ComDiva. I love it so much, it's literally the only fragrance I have that David started out hating, and I absolutely refused to be without it. I even backed up the bottle. (Now he can at least appreciate it and sometimes sort of likes it). It is utterly magnificent - but not easy. It can be polarizing. But I also receive far more compliments when I wear this fragrance than any other I've worn. So, cassis indeed = blackcurrant. But cassIE = mimosa :smiley:

Still can't stop sniffing Incarnata.
 

Cook.bot

Common Lackey
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
ExtremeK, I have a Lebreton discovery set that I haven't even dipped into yet, and you made Incarnata sound like the perfect thing to jolt me out of my rut, so I just sprayed some on. Great jumpin' jehosophat, you are so right -- this smells exactly like a lipstick shut up in a handbag for 25 years in the closet of Little Edie Bouvier from Grey Gardens. Now I can't wait to see what other tricks it has up its sleeve.
 

ExtremeK

Some of my paths in life are dirt
Basenotes Plus
Jul 5, 2010
ExtremeK, I have a Lebreton discovery set that I haven't even dipped into yet, and you made Incarnata sound like the perfect thing to jolt me out of my rut, so I just sprayed some on. Great jumpin' jehosophat, you are so right -- this smells exactly like a lipstick shut up in a handbag for 25 years in the closet of Little Edie Bouvier from Grey Gardens. Now I can't wait to see what other tricks it has up its sleeve.

OOOOO, Little Edie Bouvier! Spot on, Cook.bot! I was toying with Blanche DuBois (Streetcar), but she would have worn an overpowering, indolic jasmine -- maybe post-psych ward admission, she would have worn Incarnata. But I think Incarnata has aspects of both Edie Bouvier and Grace Stewart (The Others). I think the combination of iris with myrrh and benzoin is part of what makes it unique. Definitely a rut-buster!

Does your discovery set include L'Eau de Merzhin? That's another one I really like a lot -- very green upfront, easing into fresh-cut hay.

ETA: more Incarnata characters: Miss Havisham (Great Expectations) and Miss Emily Grierson (A Rose for Emily - Faulkner), except with iris instead of roses, of course.
 

Quarry

Doing the BN salute
Basenotes Plus
Aug 9, 2005
ComDiva, when I saw the length of your post yesterday, I thought you were going to be telling us about your new job. I'm anxious to read about how that chapter plays out for you.

Second visit with Rogue Chypre Siam. It's not me, but that's okay.
 

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