Soap fixative

AdamE

Well-known member
Jul 15, 2019
My 12 year old son has been watching me work for a while, and wants to get into fragrance making. He mentioned a while back an interest in making his own soaps too, when he learned that was a thing.

Yesterday I picked up a "heat and pour" goats milk soap base that we are going to add some fragrance and maybe some activated charcoal or some salt to.

I intend to help him create the fragrance from undiluted materials, but do I need some sort of carrier or fixative, or will it be able to go straight into the soap? Ive never done soap before (this is as much for my benefit as it is his) Ive only ever worked with alcohol, and I think Id like to avoid alcohol in a goats milk soap.

Anyone have any input?
 

Pharmacist_Blender

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2013
I love playing around with melt-and-pour soaps! You don't need to add any carrier materials, you can add the undiluted essential oils or aroma chemicals directly to the melted soap and mix them in well. Since the soap is warm/hot when you add the fragrance materials, top notes evaporate very very fast. I tried some lemon/citrus/Cis-3-hex blends but as soon as they hit the warm soap they evaporate so you have to use a lot more to compensate. But materials like liquid musks, patchouli, vetiver, rose ac's ect work great undiluted.

A couple times I added TEC because i was adding a small amount of powerful materials and wanted to make sure they were evenly distributed. That worked fine. I've also used benzyl benzoate because that's what I had my musk ketone in. Also worked great. 1-1.5ml of each of those in a 250gm batch of melt an pour didn't affect texture or suds!
 

AdamE

Well-known member
Jul 15, 2019
I love playing around with melt-and-pour soaps! You don't need to add any carrier materials, you can add the undiluted essential oils or aroma chemicals directly to the melted soap and mix them in well. Since the soap is warm/hot when you add the fragrance materials, top notes evaporate very very fast. I tried some lemon/citrus/Cis-3-hex blends but as soon as they hit the warm soap they evaporate so you have to use a lot more to compensate. But materials like liquid musks, patchouli, vetiver, rose ac's ect work great undiluted.

A couple times I added TEC because i was adding a small amount of powerful materials and wanted to make sure they were evenly distributed. That worked fine. I've also used benzyl benzoate because that's what I had my musk ketone in. Also worked great. 1-1.5ml of each of those in a 250gm batch of melt an pour didn't affect texture or suds!

excellent, thanks.

Any ballpark ratio increase for top notes? like, twice as strong as you would normally do? 10x as much?
 

myhaiku

Well-known member
Aug 16, 2020
Citrus type materials are difficult to work with in soap because they have a low flashpoint, so it will smell less potent --and it will cause soap to rice sometimes if it's added at a lower temp. Super-fatting and other carriers can reduce the ricing problem, which is easier to do in cold process soaps.
 

Stefan.E

Well-known member
Nov 18, 2020
excellent, thanks.

Any ballpark ratio increase for top notes? like, twice as strong as you would normally do? 10x as much?

Straight in the soap! I got some melt and pour with shea butter (i found the "normal" melt and pour made my skin very dry). I always found top notes just vanished, so I just concentrated on heart and basenotes. Candles are similar but almost only work with heart notes, but soap projects base notes very well. I had a few failed tries at Dior's Sauvage so I made it into a soap, and cetalox is insanely powerful! I mean It's already an overdose but the sopa itself just sits there and my room has a nice diffusion of cetalox haha

Also one point is the amount of fragrance to soap, people say 5% but quite often I prefer 1% and even 0.5% because I think it smells much nicer and softer.
(Seems to correspond to Pharmacist_Blender's amounts too so glad my trial and errors correspond to others :) )
 

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