Smoky notes

BoyChanel

Basenotes Dependent
Jun 18, 2014
When I think of a smoky perfume, Mitzah comes to mind. Spicy and smoky, in fact.

raw
 

cacio

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 5, 2010
Cypriol (aka nagarmota) is another one that comes to mind. And then many chemicals for sure, typically described as tar, phenolic, etc.

cacio
 

rynegne

Basenotes Institution
Jul 25, 2012
Birch Tar, Cade, Nagarmota, Labdanum (smoky/sweet), Fossilized Amber, Choya Loban, Copal Bark...plenty more. There are varieties of vetiver as well that help bring forward a little smoky character.
 
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saminlondon

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 25, 2011
Incense gum is more resinous, citric, piney and dusty than smoky - at least until it's burnt. Does it give a smoky odour profile on its own? I'm not sure.
 

magnus611

Basenotes Dependent
Jul 16, 2013
Birch tar for sure as incense, frankincense etc are a given to be smoky but in various composition that I have usually birch is the culprit
 

NebelGeîst

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 10, 2016
Incense gum is more resinous, citric, piney and dusty than smoky - at least until it's burnt. Does it give a smoky odour profile on its own? I'm not sure.
Just my thought exactly. Non of the frankincense materials I have or have tested smelled smokey (including the actual gum). But then again I have seen frankincense materials in online shops that were described as having smokey aspects (I think the resinoid from IFF belonged to them?). So maybe there are varieties that show facets of smoke. But I never had them under my nose so far.

Most that came to my mind have already been mentioned (vetiver, nagarmotha/cypriol, cade/juniper tar, birch tar, guaiacol). I'd like to add spiknard which only shows minor smoke aspects (less than nagarmotha) and in delution the earthy and valerian-like aromas dominate, yet still some smoke is detectable to my nose.
There are materials that I haven't smelled yet but are told to have their smokey characteristics: Chua oil (Shorea wiesneri), nutty pyrazine, ketine and almond pyrazine. If those were easily available and cheap in Germany I would have them in my collection already. With my order from hermitage oils this month at least nutty pyrazine will come to me and I can report how it smells like.
 

rynegne

Basenotes Institution
Jul 25, 2012
Designer with a smoky note? Nah...maybe some older stuff and possibly something like Le Labo's Patchouli 24...but I don't know for sure if it contains guaiacol.

Sounds nice. Do you know of any fragrances which use it to a noticeable degree? (Designer preferably)
 

Ken_Russell

Basenotes Institution
Jan 21, 2006
Vintage oakmoss-based/containing fragrances, especially the one preceding current restrictions, always had a mellow, inoffensive but still pleasantly noticeable residual, marginal smokiness to me (dosed to achieve a minimal, yet just right right amount of quality smoky suggestions)
 

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