Simple "Oud" Formula

Stefan.E

Well-known member
Nov 18, 2020
Hey everyone, a while ago I read that Cashmeran and Kephalis are often used in the many modern "oud" fragrances, and did some tweaking to make some formula, ended up with this:

34 Kephalis
25 Cashmeran 50%
28 Benzoin Siam 50%
5 PEA
3 Ebanol
3 Amyris EO
2 Nagarmotha EO (Cypriol)

Total 100


Worth some tweaking, but I think it's surprisingly complex for what it is. The cashmeran adds that animalic side, and the PEA, Benzoin and Amyris bring out the sweetness I find in some ouds. Hope this can be a fun little sunday exercise to someone, and if any of you tweak of have thoughts don't hesitate!
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
I haven't smelled this, so just speculating based on the formula, but what seems lacking is the tenacious sparkling ambery facet of oud. Perhaps adding a bit of a superamber to tickle the nose? Karanal, amberketal/Z11, norlimbanol, ambrocenide, or the like?

ETA: I just sniffed at very dilute stocks of some of these & I think karanal might be the oudiest!
 

polysom

Well-known member
Apr 4, 2021
My Oud Samrat Base also smells very superamber-ish, and this is the only part I don't like on them. So, if the formula above does not have this, I would much appreciate this. But yes, my Oud Thailand also has this tenacious sparkling ambery facet.
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
My Oud Samrat Base also smells very superamber-ish, and this is the only part I don't like on them. So, if the formula above does not have this, I would much appreciate this. But yes, my Oud Thailand also has this tenacious sparkling ambery facet.

Yes Oud Samrat is very ambery & if you look at the MSDS you can see it's got amberketal & some other molecules that are probably superambers.
 

apolo085

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2019
Interesting and simple, thank you.
May be a touch of isobutyl quinoline will add more depth.
It will surely get more depth and woody facets adding Indian Patchouli absolute or Patchouli heart in conjunction with a high dose of patchoulol.
 

sorance

Well-known member
Feb 14, 2020
My OUD:
patchouli EO, 14
sandal◄australian► EO, 14
amyris EO, 11
vanilla◄planifolia►tincture, 11
raspberry extract, 11
styrax EO, 5
cedar◄texas► EO, 3
peru balsam EO, 3
grapefruit EO, 3
strawberry extract, 3
tobacco absolute, 3
leather accord, 3
guaiac EO, 3
smoke - tincture, Lapsang Souchong Tea, 3
benzoin siam absolute, 1
labdanum absolute, 1
musk animal, 1
olibanum EO, Boswellia carterii, 1
hay fresh accord 1
 
Last edited:

Stefan.E

Well-known member
Nov 18, 2020
I haven't smelled this, so just speculating based on the formula, but what seems lacking is the tenacious sparkling ambery facet of oud. Perhaps adding a bit of a superamber to tickle the nose? Karanal, amberketal/Z11, norlimbanol, ambrocenide, or the like?

ETA: I just sniffed at very dilute stocks of some of these & I think karanal might be the oudiest!

You're 100% right and like Polysom said I purposefully made this without any superamber because I dislike them
 

Stefan.E

Well-known member
Nov 18, 2020
Interesting and simple, thank you.
May be a touch of isobutyl quinoline will add more depth.
It will surely get more depth and woody facets adding Indian Patchouli absolute or Patchouli heart in conjunction with a high dose of patchoulol.

Thanks! Ah IBQ, very good idea. I really was planning on making an "oud" that would leave a lot of space around it, hence no superambers or anything that would overtake another blend, more of an oud that's ready to be friends with other materials even if they're soft haha
 

Stefan.E

Well-known member
Nov 18, 2020
My OUD:
patchouli EO, 14
sandal◄australian► EO, 14
amyris EO, 11
vanilla◄planifolia►, 11
raspberry extract, 11
styrax EO, 5
cedar◄texas► EO, 3
peru balsam EO, 3
grapefruit EO, 3
strawberry extract, 3
tobacco absolute, 3
leather accord, 3
guaiac EO, 3
smoke - tincture, Lapsang Souchong Tea, 3
benzoin siam absolute, 1
labdanum absolute, 1
musk animal, 1
olibanum EO, Boswellia carterii, 1
hay fresh accord 1

Lots of naturals, I like it! Looks like it's very detailed,I'm missing a few things but I can imagine how smokey ethereal this must smell. Thanks for sharing!!
 

apolo085

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2019
Thanks! Ah IBQ, very good idea. I really was planning on making an "oud" that would leave a lot of space around it, hence no superambers or anything that would overtake another blend, more of an oud that's ready to be friends with other materials even if they're soft haha

Got your idea.
In that case, I would suggest to use Cypriol heart instead of the EO, it is cleaner and less intrusive version of it.
Also, watch out on the quality of Benzoin resinoid, I found it really hard to obtain a good quality of it on the current retail market, a lot of it are made using a bad quality of benzoin tears or/and bad quality of solvents, ending with a harsh woody dry down, sometimes more noticeable in your mix than in the pure stuff.
Firmenich's Armenian Wood Base can do a wonderful job replacing Siam Benzoin, or used together.
You can still consider pure Patchoulol as a "rounding agent" if needed one, and as a sillage booster.
 

HisHighness

Well-known member
Dec 14, 2020
I'm working on a Oud base using the following materials:
VERTOFIX
GUAIACWOOD
GURJUM BALSAM
STYRAX RESINOIDE 10%
PERU BALSAM
CIVET CNC 10%
LABDANUM RESINOIDE 10%
ISOBUTYL QUINOLEINE
BENZOIN RESINOIDE 50%
PATCHOULY OIL
GALAXOLIDE
CISTE OIL 10%
OLIBANUM RESINOIDE 10%
AMYRIS OIL

Smells good so far may add more woods any input is appreciated. :dankk2:
 

Stefan.E

Well-known member
Nov 18, 2020
Got your idea.
In that case, I would suggest to use Cypriol heart instead of the EO, it is cleaner and less intrusive version of it.
Also, watch out on the quality of Benzoin resinoid, I found it really hard to obtain a good quality of it on the current retail market, a lot of it are made using a bad quality of benzoin tears or/and bad quality of solvents, ending with a harsh woody dry down, sometimes more noticeable in your mix than in the pure stuff.
Firmenich's Armenian Wood Base can do a wonderful job replacing Siam Benzoin, or used together.
You can still consider pure Patchoulol as a "rounding agent" if needed one, and as a sillage booster.

Thank you so much!! I really love Cypriol so will gladly look into the heart version. I got mine from Hekserij and was always happy with what they sold, but always worth getting more from another seller to compare, or even the base!
 

Stefan.E

Well-known member
Nov 18, 2020
I'm working on a Oud base using the following materials:
VERTOFIX
GUAIACWOOD
GURJUM BALSAM
STYRAX RESINOIDE 10%
PERU BALSAM
CIVET CNC 10%
LABDANUM RESINOIDE 10%
ISOBUTYL QUINOLEINE
BENZOIN RESINOIDE 50%
PATCHOULY OIL
GALAXOLIDE
CISTE OIL 10%
OLIBANUM RESINOIDE 10%
AMYRIS OIL

Smells good so far may add more woods any input is appreciated. :dankk2:

Thanks for sharing! I'm glad the materials I used seem to be present in all your formulas as I just kind of picked things that reminded me of Oud, reassuring I wasn't wayyy off haha
 

polysom

Well-known member
Apr 4, 2021
Hey everyone, a while ago I read that Cashmeran and Kephalis are often used in the many modern "oud" fragrances, and did some tweaking to make some formula, ended up with this:

34 Kephalis
25 Cashmeran 50%
28 Benzoin Siam 50%
5 PEA
3 Ebanol
3 Amyris EO
2 Nagarmotha EO (Cypriol)

Total 100


Worth some tweaking, but I think it's surprisingly complex for what it is. The cashmeran adds that animalic side, and the PEA, Benzoin and Amyris bring out the sweetness I find in some ouds. Hope this can be a fun little sunday exercise to someone, and if any of you tweak of have thoughts don't hesitate!

I made your formula today and tested the smell on skin (10%). There is definitely something Oud-ish with it. The smell is not that complex and layered like my real Oud. And to my taste it is a bit too sweet-floral. Maybe if I would reduce the PEA a bit and add a bit more Cypriol instead, it would come closer to my real Oud. But let's see, how the smell develops while it ages.
 

Stefan.E

Well-known member
Nov 18, 2020
I made your formula today and tested the smell on skin (10%). There is definitely something Oud-ish with it. The smell is not that complex and layered like my real Oud. And to my taste it is a bit too sweet-floral. Maybe if I would reduce the PEA a bit and add a bit more Cypriol instead, it would come closer to my real Oud. But let's see, how the smell develops while it ages.

Thanks for testing! You can definitely lower the PEA and Benzoin and raise the Cypriol, it will get you closer to a more "standard" base. I found the woods came out a bit more after a few days of maturation too. Compared to the real thing of course this is much more basic, but I was surprised at how it reminds of oud with so little materials. Thanks for trying it out and for your input!
 

Agonhoun

Well-known member
Feb 20, 2021
Today i did version for myself, for first variant i use more natural components, cos have different samples of artisanal good ( adore!). So i started with oud sumatra blu, natural musc deer and absolute rose turkish. My idea was to create delicate oud without animal notes, that is why i choose oud sumatra blu. I wanted to have oud+ red berries+ little bit of rose and iris which increased the development of red wild berries . I was satisfied with result and would like to create second bottle with replacement of oud , resinoid iris and rose, for optimisation price and for comparison both variants.
First variant with natural oud is a tasty, deep, violet and more “a la niche”. Second bottle will like fore more people, it sounds as “commercial” variant . For second variant was not enough a little bit animal nuance- that is why i used cuminyl acetate

Who will interested to try my second variant i will send full formula

Oud fireco (firmenich)
Oud samrat ( firmenich)
Oud oliffac ( IFF)
Cuminyl acetate
Clearwood or patchouli ( or together)

Methyl ionone gamma coeur
Dew berry 20%
Keton raspberry
juniper berries EO
Ethyl maltol 1%
C-16
C-12 mna 10%



Phenithyl alc
Rhodinol
Geranium egypt abs
Rose Wardia ( same with rose turkush abs)
Iso eugenol
Methyl dianthis

Musc arome
Tonkiton 10%
 

Stefan.E

Well-known member
Nov 18, 2020
Today i did version for myself, for first variant i use more natural components, cos have different samples of artisanal good ( adore!). So i started with oud sumatra blu, natural musc deer and absolute rose turkish. My idea was to create delicate oud without animal notes, that is why i choose oud sumatra blu. I wanted to have oud+ red berries+ little bit of rose and iris which increased the development of red wild berries . I was satisfied with result and would like to create second bottle with replacement of oud , resinoid iris and rose, for optimisation price and for comparison both variants.
First variant with natural oud is a tasty, deep, violet and more “a la niche”. Second bottle will like fore more people, it sounds as “commercial” variant . For second variant was not enough a little bit animal nuance- that is why i used cuminyl acetate

Who will interested to try my second variant i will send full formula

Oud fireco (firmenich)
Oud samrat ( firmenich)
Oud oliffac ( IFF)
Cuminyl acetate
Clearwood or patchouli ( or together)

Methyl ionone gamma coeur
Dew berry 20%
Keton raspberry
juniper berries EO
Ethyl maltol 1%
C-16
C-12 mna 10%



Phenithyl alc
Rhodinol
Geranium egypt abs
Rose Wardia ( same with rose turkush abs)
Iso eugenol
Methyl dianthis

Musc arome
Tonkiton 10%

Thanks for sharing your insight and materials! I'm glad this threat have so many people sharing their oud interpretations, makes it super useful and interesting
 
Jan 26, 2021
Today i did version for myself, for first variant i use more natural components, cos have different samples of artisanal good ( adore!). So i started with oud sumatra blu, natural musc deer and absolute rose turkish. My idea was to create delicate oud without animal notes, that is why i choose oud sumatra blu. I wanted to have oud+ red berries+ little bit of rose and iris which increased the development of red wild berries . I was satisfied with result and would like to create second bottle with replacement of oud , resinoid iris and rose, for optimisation price and for comparison both variants.
First variant with natural oud is a tasty, deep, violet and more “a la niche”. Second bottle will like fore more people, it sounds as “commercial” variant . For second variant was not enough a little bit animal nuance- that is why i used cuminyl acetate

Who will interested to try my second variant i will send full formula

Oud fireco (firmenich)
Oud samrat ( firmenich)
Oud oliffac ( IFF)
Cuminyl acetate
Clearwood or patchouli ( or together)

Methyl ionone gamma coeur
Dew berry 20%
Keton raspberry
juniper berries EO
Ethyl maltol 1%
C-16
C-12 mna 10%



Phenithyl alc
Rhodinol
Geranium egypt abs
Rose Wardia ( same with rose turkush abs)
Iso eugenol
Methyl dianthis

Musc arome
Tonkiton 10%
I do appreciate sending me full formula, I am working on one, and will be very helpful to me.
Many thanks
 

Greenslug

Active member
Feb 27, 2021
I am still fairly new to perfumery but I am fascinated with oud. Would you say this formula is more masculine leaning or unisex in your opinion?
 

Stefan.E

Well-known member
Nov 18, 2020
I am still fairly new to perfumery but I am fascinated with oud. Would you say this formula is more masculine leaning or unisex in your opinion?
My formula is more unisex, even more feminine because I made a floral part, but general oud would tend more to masculine, really depends on the context!
 
Oct 11, 2021
My OUD:
patchouli EO, 14
sandal◄australian► EO, 14
amyris EO, 11
vanilla◄planifolia►tincture, 11
raspberry extract, 11
styrax EO, 5
cedar◄texas► EO, 3
peru balsam EO, 3
grapefruit EO, 3
strawberry extract, 3
tobacco absolute, 3
leather accord, 3
guaiac EO, 3
smoke - tincture, Lapsang Souchong Tea, 3
benzoin siam absolute, 1
labdanum absolute, 1
musk animal, 1
olibanum EO, Boswellia carterii, 1
hay fresh accord 1
Imao, herbal notes is higher than Woody.
 
Oct 11, 2021
Yeah, it's
Regular distillation of Thai Oud will show high green herbal profile.
It depends on what Oud you want to mimic after all...
My perspective that, indian assam agarwood is the most perfect base note for agarwood which is given more rootty and clumsy, in this context, Compodian oil can modify with Indian oil ☺️. ofcourse It all depends on your design.
 

Hazel_

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 8, 2021
Peki alkol ne kadar olacak bu formüle?
Üzgünüm, buna Türkçe cevap veremem... Çok zor

So, I know not everyone approaches formulation in this way, but I think of my final formulas in two distinct parts: the concentrate, and the alcohol (or other diluting medium, but I personally use alcohol). This makes it easier for me to do the math because my concentrate can be any number of parts, including pre-diluted materials, and then I just add more alcohol to create the final product.

This is my process as an example:

I make a formula with 1,000 parts. With this approach, 1/1,000 = x, and I can make x whatever I want it to be. The total amount of concentrate I make is dependent on what I decide x is. If x = 1g, then I end up with 1,000g concentrate. If x = 0.01g, then I have 10g concentrate.

It also doesn't matter either how many parts you have so long as you know that your total number of parts = 100%. The Oud formula that Stefan shared equals 100, so it's easier to think of it as 1/100 = x, or if you have a formula with an odd number total (like the ones Christophe Laudamiel writes) that becomes 100%.

Then once I have my concentrate — however much I've decided to make — that becomes a new unit. I stop thinking of it as a collection of disparate parts, and consider it a singular thing: concentrate = [percentage desired in final product].

I mostly make extraits around 20% concentrate, so usually I'll do 20% concentrate to 80% alcohol — 20/100 + 80/100 = 100% = the final perfume.

I realize that's a long answer! But the point is, I can't say how much alcohol you'll need because that is dependent on how much concentrate you choose to make.
 

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