SECRACTION: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

PalmBeach

Basenotes Dependent
Apr 5, 2012
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

Thanks for the quick update. Looking forward to hearing your full review.

Once question, you mentioned available worldwide in your initial post. Will it only be sold off their website or will it be available from other places.
 

thebeck

Basenotes Dependent
Mar 25, 2007
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

I'm really looking forward to this one. I have a spot reserved on my shelf for my first O'drui if its as good as alfarom says it is. alfarom has great taste, so I'm excited.
 

Trebor

Basenotes Dependent
Apr 8, 2006
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

My sample arrived today. Many thanks, alfarom, for arranging that.

I've only had it on my arm for less than an hour, so I'm not going to go into too much detail but I pretty much agree with alfarom's initial impressions. I only applied a solitary drop but it's pretty potent, though not overwhelmingly so. It's smooth, seamlessly blended and there aren't any green accords within the vicinity.

I'm sure many of you are still curious about its aroma, so I will sum it up by saying this: if you love/like Musc Ravageur, you will appreciate this as well. However, it's slightly darker, less sweet and more 'accomplished' than Malle's creation.

Do I like it? Yes.

Would I buy a bottle? I'm not sure but, at the moment, it's a definite possibility.
 

trex57

Basenotes Dependent
Jun 5, 2010
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

My sample arrived today. Many thanks, alfarom, for arranging that.

I've only had it on my arm for less than an hour, so I'm not going to go into too much detail but I pretty much agree with alfarom's initial impressions. I only applied a solitary drop but it's pretty potent, though not overwhelmingly so. It's smooth, seamlessly blended and there aren't any green accords within the vicinity.

I'm sure many of you are still curious about its aroma, so I will sum it up by saying this: if you love/like Musc Ravageur, you will appreciate this as well. However, it's slightly darker, less sweet and more 'accomplished' than Malle's creation.

Do I like it? Yes.

Would I buy a bottle? I'm not sure but, at the moment, it's a definite possibility.

Like MR but darker and less sweet. More "accomplished" I'm tingling(drooling) in anticipation. This sounds really, really good.
 

Gamma

Super Member
Feb 20, 2012
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

I'm curious as to why the description and instructions on the paper with the sketches and yellow circle haven't been mentioned. Did those of you who have tested it do what it says..?
 

Darvant

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 26, 2010
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

I'm starting to study and examinating this ultimate gem and have to say that the new experiment leans much on the more modern Leva side than on the one of my "ancient" absolute favorite Vis et Honor (or of the second love of mine Laltrove 1001). Bearish for sure but less mouldy and ancient than the O'Driu' heavyweights in my opinion. On a first approach i detect hints of orangy/ cinnamon (may be ylang- ylang), faint patterns of aromatic herbs, an interaction of saffron, may be cumin and laurel over a woody/vanillic (minimal hints of coffee??) smooth base mastered by a well modulated smokey and animalic (forgive me, also "peessy") presence re- calling more properly a fur/castoreum combo than effectively the civet itself. The orangy vibe is notable and the more the juice discloses its wings the more i catch the peppery presence. The floral patterns are not easy to identify for the moment but frankly i detect more jasmine, neroli and exotic floral elements than rose (for the moment but is possible that my humble nose fails or catchs new impressions later). Possibly i'm not on the right way of the olfactory perception and in this case hope to discover the real identity of nuances and facets in the upcoming days. The juice is brown/dark and warm but not surupy for sure. Just that for the moment my friends, i have the Avantgarde Fetish Perfume on the skin since a too short time to be barely close to the real thing.

- - - Updated - - -

I have to say that the dry down tends to become decidedly smooth, delightful, slightly ambery/woody, highly sophisticated by spices and fruity/floral and barely leathery notes. In this phase the fragrance smells like a more civilized and modern olfactory potion but is still plain that sort of cloud of shadowy edible spices, dust and smoke. A more purified sort of l'Air du desert Marocain jumps vaguely to mind.
 
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alfarom

Power Where You Need It
Basenotes Plus
Mar 4, 2011
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

I didn't catch the Musc Ravageur vibe and while the comparison still makes a lot of sense to me, after the initial sweetish blast, the fragrance gets a lot more drier in the middle-phase drydown. Leva it's definitely there but only during the few minutes of the opening (at least in my experience). I agree Darvant, there's a LADDM vibe going on somewhere as well as a musky-woody-peppery accord that, somewhat, reminded me of both Monegal's Agar Musk and Memo Shams...but it's just a hint.

Anyway, I'll give it more full wearings in the next few days and will surely keep in mind your pretious thoughts Darvant and Trebor.
 

trex57

Basenotes Dependent
Jun 5, 2010
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

I did receive the parcel today. The presentation is first rate, of course. I will admit Im lousy at reviews but this seems like its going to be a winner. Ive put just a drop on the top of my hand 5 hrs ago and its still very present. I agree that the opening is somewhat like Musc Ravageur without any sweetness.

At 5 hours(or so) an amber presence makes itself known. This is really nice.

One common thing Ive noticed about the scents Ive tried from Mr Pregoni is just how "fresh" they are. They give me the impression they were justed mixed and poured for you.

It'll get the full day treatment tomorrow for sure. Ill have more once I give it a full wearing.

Thank you Alfarom for your assistance.


Regards Rex
 

alfarom

Power Where You Need It
Basenotes Plus
Mar 4, 2011
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

I don't understand why I don't receive notifications when someone posts in this thread....ARGH!
 

PalmBeach

Basenotes Dependent
Apr 5, 2012
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

I don't understand why I don't receive notifications when someone posts in this thread....ARGH!

It's must be a conspiracy.

BTW, how does one get samples of the secret perfume, or is it a secret?
 

MonkeyBars

Basenotes Dependent
May 18, 2011
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

I'm curious as to why the description and instructions on the paper with the sketches and yellow circle haven't been mentioned. Did those of you who have tested it do what it says..?

I just received my package and finally READ what is on that gorgeous "instruction manual" . . . and laughed my ass off for two minutes straight. This truly is fragrance ART -- the real intersection. Forget that cheeseball Chandler and his paltry gestures as a so-called "curator," ripping the labels off whatever commercial juice he likes and sticking bottles in a museum. This is the REAL DEAL people. Anyone else claiming to be avant-garde just got ONE-UPPED.

I hadn't bothered to read the copy in the photograph above. If you haven't, I suggest you do, if you want to learn what the "Secret" behind the concept of this fragrance is. Hilariously appropriate color scheme and letter emphasis.

Pregoni is actually doing what other perfumers claim to do. I wish him a long career -- he will be seen as a true maverick in the perfume history books.

In fact, I now declare that O'Driu's latest is the first postmodern perfume.

I guess I'll have to "drink the koolaid" and actually give this experience a shot. You only live once. To be continued . . . ahhhhh that's better. What a relief, to have a perfumer in the world of this conceptual caliber.
 
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drseid

Sound Scents
Basenotes Plus
Jun 1, 2003
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

I received my sample yesterday and gave it an initial go on skin last night (sans the secret ingredient). I have no idea if adding the "secret ingredient" really improves the composition or it was just meant to be provocative copy, but the fragrance without it is very complete despite its absence, IMO.

The trademark O'driu culinary herb combo found in most of the other O'driu releases is definitely here right at the open and well into the heart notes, but they are toned down substantially below the already lowered level used in another one of O'driu's more recent releases, Linfedele Haiku. I am beginning to see a trend here but with that said, this release is certainly not sanitized and I would bet there is a good deal of real castoreum in it as well, as I get a nice animallic vibe early-on, without it going overboard or becoming distracting. Probably the best surprise for me was the extremely well-done rose note similar to the brilliant one found in my favorite O'driu composition Lalfeorosa appearing in the early heart that never overpowers the herbs and animallic aspects, but blends in perfect harmony with the other notes through the scent's development giving the composition superb balance without losing its complexity. Projection is really excellent, but longevity despite the use of its small amount of synthetics, just about average (6-8 hours on my skin).

I am still getting a full feel for the composition (especially the later parts) so these are just initial impressions, but I find the composition on the whole extremely wearable and highly accomplished, melding my favorite aspects of all the prior releases into one. Not too shabby indeed! So while the "secret ingredient" might have gotten folks to take notice, IMO it is the vision and amazing technical skill of Pregoni who is at the top of his already strong game here that has highly impressed me with this one and I look forward to being able to purchase it next year... I could definitely see this becoming my new favorite from the house. Great stuff indeed.
 

trex57

Basenotes Dependent
Jun 5, 2010
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

Is this a prototype for a new EPT? or EDP:laugh:
 

alfarom

Power Where You Need It
Basenotes Plus
Mar 4, 2011
Re: A Secret Perfume (aka SECRACTION) by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

a 3D rendering of the actual commercial bottle of SECRACTION

Immagine6-23.png
 

laph

Basenotes Dependent
Feb 5, 2011
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

Alfa - thank you soo much for arranging this.

I'm still digesting this so I won't comment too much yet but I do understand the references to MR and LADDM. There is the strong herbal kick of other O'Driu fragrances + cinnamon too. Very nice.
 

alfarom

Power Where You Need It
Basenotes Plus
Mar 4, 2011
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

front side 3D rendering....

Immagine6-24.png


Laph, I understand both the receferencies as well (MR for the cinnamon-musky vibe and MR for the balmy aspect) but I still preceive the overall vibe of this fragrance as strikingly different from either. It has an extra kick to it that's almost subliminal in this case yet extremely striking, the O'Driù signature.
 

Foustie

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 1, 2010
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

Fabulous design. The name? Secret....secretion....action....attraction, secret action?

I think that Mr Pregoni's creative mood is getting darker.
 

alfarom

Power Where You Need It
Basenotes Plus
Mar 4, 2011
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

Foustie, I agree. Dark and charmingly, elegantly morbid. That said, to my understanding, Secartion has nothing to do with O'Driù. It will probably be a one-off composition by Pregoni which will not be included in the regular O'Driu's range. It will be introduced worldwide with a bunch of art-performances by the author (several around europe and some in the US as well) and it will most probably have different distribution channels from O'Driù...

Here's an excerpt from an article I've found online...

"Marketing is the dominant sub-culture in every planetary social relationship, the simplistic stereotypes dictated by advertising have depleted the value of the individual, depriving it of a subjective identity and reducing it to a mere target audience. Secraction reworks the postulates of marketing in a unique and singular utopia, a scent that becomes a product only with us, and for us only through a intimate and secret action that turns us into protagonists. From this new perspective, you can definitely consider Secraction as pure art: not a copy of a copy, not the mere imitation but the catharsis of the world, the evacuation intended as purification! "
 

Trebor

Basenotes Dependent
Apr 8, 2006
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

front side 3D rendering....

Immagine6-24.png
I’m afraid the bottle design doesn’t impress, IMHO. It comes across as a sports version of an Agonist flacon. Furthermore, the text is too busy. Personally, the entire design goes against what the fragrance is attempting to convey.
 

alfarom

Power Where You Need It
Basenotes Plus
Mar 4, 2011
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

I’m afraid the bottle design doesn’t impress, IMHO. It comes across as a sports version of an Agonist flacon. Furthermore, the text is too busy. Personally, the entire design goes against what the fragrance is attempting to convey.

I actually quite like it even if I'll save my final comment on when I'll see the actual bottle (I think the materials will play a relevant role here. Donna Karan anyone?). That said, IMO it looks more like a nun than a "Agonist" bottle. It has the slight sinful vibe of most of late 70s early 80s italian soft-core movies...An Edwige Fenech type of vibe. I believe in this context, it perfectly fits the fragrance.

Immagine7-28.png




Nasenmann, you're sooooo acute! :D
 
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Trebor

Basenotes Dependent
Apr 8, 2006
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

It has the slight sinful vibe of most of late 70s early 80s italian soft-core movies...An Edwige Fenech type of vibe.
Well, since you put it that way...

But seriously, the bottle comes across as too sterile (regardless of what it's in reference of). We'll see when it finally comes out.
 

alfarom

Power Where You Need It
Basenotes Plus
Mar 4, 2011
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

Well, since you put it that way...

But seriously, the bottle comes across as too sterile (regardless of what it's in reference of). We'll see when it finally comes out.

LOL! I really couldn't help it. It worked as sort of Rorschach image for me :D

I agree, I need to see the actual bottle. 3D renderings are alywas sterile to me....

- - - Updated - - -

I'd love to ask Pregoni what's the actual bottle's concept though...
 

MonkeyBars

Basenotes Dependent
May 18, 2011
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

Well, I haven't done a wearing yet, but I will say that on paper, it's certainly his most conventional creation by far -- which makes sense since he is planning a wider release. At the same time, it does exhibit the hallmarks of O'Driu -- bitter herbs and a LOT of castoreum. Except now they are very tempered by judicious rose, cinnamon and vanilla. I think the "secret ingredient" fits right in very cleverly.
 

alfarom

Power Where You Need It
Basenotes Plus
Mar 4, 2011
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

Some inspirational pictures used for the design of the bottle which is going to be made of crystal and black bakelite. The cap will be an upside down funnel...

Immagine4-34.png
 

alfarom

Power Where You Need It
Basenotes Plus
Mar 4, 2011
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

No news yet, Foustie?
 

Foustie

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 1, 2010
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

Yes actually, a message from Anna yesterday. So, soon........
 

alfarom

Power Where You Need It
Basenotes Plus
Mar 4, 2011
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)



- - - Updated - - -

After a couple of full wearings of the "standard" version, today I went for the "personalized" one and must say that while the difference is substantial, at the same time it's not radical. The fragrance still preserves a thick leathery-musky-balmy structure but the vanillla, after the initial blast, gets tamed down brutally leaving space to a nice appleish-cinnamon combo that while sounding gourmandish, it totally skips the edible aspect of the accord introducing a metallic, sort of nose-tingling vibe the drives the fragrance towards modern territories. The interesting aspect is that, despite the slightly metallic accord, Secraction still feels incredibly warm, subtly animalic, sort of visceral. Again, there's NOTHING challenging about this composition, in fact, is quite easy to like. What, IMO, really changes from the "standard" version is that the base is less woody, less peppery and more about a spicy floral musk combo. The woods get almost killed in the "augmented" version.

A funny thing I'd like to point out after several wearings is that Secraction works subliminally. You think it's gone but then you get whiffs of its peculiar projection and this goes on and on and on...Projection! This is the point of stregth of this stuff. Don't get me wrong, Secraction is not a projection monster (at least not after the first two hours or so) but I find it smelling a lot differently when smelled up close. This is a very well done fragrance but if smelled in projection, this stuff is killer. So unique. That's why I personally believe a paper strip test doesn't give justice to the composition.

In the end, I've to say that with or without the P, this is a top quality fragrance. Both the two versions are well worth experiencing if you're into original fragrances. Again, unique without being odd.
 

Sugandaraja

Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Aug 28, 2007
Re: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

I finally gave this a full wearing today. While I'm grateful for all the attention that Mr. O'Driu put into this...

This is a very mediocre scent that still manages to suffer most of what I didn't enjoy about the rest of the line. There seems to be some sour, musty O'Driade that's endemic to the line and all natural scents all too frequently. The top notes have this sweet oriental note ( fruitcake was my initial thought ) with a bit of a tarry camphoraceous quality like Lonestar Memories. Then it dries down to a sort of sour labdanum floriental with musk, kind of a hint of carnation and jasmine floating through.

It wasn't awful but I can't I'm impressed. Sorry. :(
 

drseid

Sound Scents
Basenotes Plus
Jun 1, 2003
Well, now having worn both the original and augmented versions side by side, one on each arm I think I can make some comparisons...

The original version started on skin with much more of the O'driù trademark herbs (albeit considerably tamped down from earlier releases from the house). The augmented version for me went almost immediately to the more animalic (think real castoreum and musk) aspects of the scent, with a beautiful rose note coming out a lot stronger than it did with the original later on. The original then plays a bit of catch-up with the animalics and rose (although not as strong), while in the dry-down a very nice vanilla joins the now dominant castoreum and musk tandem, with a still faint rose in the background. On the augmented version, I get much less of the vanilla and rose in the dry-down, and more of the animalics. Projection on both versions is excellent, with longevity of the regular outlasting the augmented by a couple hours, lasting about 7-8 hours (average) on the regular, and 5-6 hours on the augmented (below average).

Final conclusions... In either form, the scent is a definite winner from O'driù. It is extremely wearable in either form, but if I had to choose, I think I have a slight preference for it in the regular form, as I get more of the spice, slightly less animalics and higher longevity. That is a bit better fit for my preferences. It is highly recommended in either form.
 

Foustie

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 1, 2010
Well, I got my sample pack today and I couldn't wait to wear the fragrance, and I tell you this, it is really beautiful. I am surprised by it. It is a soft, sensuous floral oriental. Contemporary with a classical richness.

First impressions; peppery floral aromatic (rose, a little geranium, amongst others) on a soft dry and rich slightly spicy balsamic vanilla base. It has an intimacy about it. I think that it is the most "feminine" of Mr Pregoni's fragrances so far which does not mean that it won't be great on guys. It will be. Very intriguing on a man I think.

This is not O'Driu. It has a different sensibility altogether, although it may have shadows of Lalfeorosa and Laurhum.

Much more to be said in good time.

Meantime I hope that you all have a wonderful holiday season.

Edit 19:20
I just put a little on my partner. He likes a nice fragrance but he's not a fanatic. He liked it straight away. He says that he doesn't find it all feminine. He finds it unisex and he thinks that it is great! Interesting hmm?

Oh, and it has a beautiful amber drydown. I am really loving this!
 
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Foustie

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 1, 2010
OK friends, a little review.

As always with fragrances by Angelo Orazio Pregoni, we each seem to be homing in on different facets of the fragrance, but that is fine, isn't it? These are my impressions, and as always with these shape shifters, these are but only impressions.....

Secraction. Luxurious and Intimate.
The immediate impression is difficult to describe actually. There are no sharp, clear top notes. Instead, the opening is more of an introduction to the fragrance. It is inviting, intriguing. There are some low key herbs, thyme perhaps, there is a fruit note, lovely actually, orange perhaps or more likely mandarin. There is a floaty, woody accord almost from the beginning, along with a peppery accord which suggests just a hint of peppery frankincense. This all rests on a cloudy, cushiony vanilla which is present from the start.

It is interesting to me that when I wear this fragrance the next phase is a lovely rose. An otherworldly rose, which seems just right somehow. Others comment on the jasmine, which I am not aware of. This rose is joined by subtle aromatics; geranium, and mint. The first time I noticed this on paper but not on skin. But since then, even on skin, I find a pleasing suggestion of minty geranuim coming forward a good while into the development. The fragrance is very cool on paper at this stage, but warmer on skin. Then a little warm spice, cinnamon and clove and for a moment there is a carnation floating around.

I don't find this fragrance to be animalic. Quite a good way into the development I think that there is a little cumin which does seem to have the effect of linking it to skin, you know, almost providing a bridge to warm skin, a suggestion, but to me it is very subtle.

The long development is a really gorgeous amber and vanilla, quite dry, very soft, suggesting notes of tobacco, benzoin, tonka, labdanum, vanilla, faintly reminiscent at times of the tone of Amber 114. It is very long lasting and very enjoyable. I am always aware of it when I am wearing it.

Secraction is not O'Driu. The Secraction bottle suggests something angular and hard faceted to me. It isn't that either. Quite the contrary. Secraction is closer to a classical oriental. There is something of the boudoir about it. There is a suggestion of silk underwear on perfumed skin. Either a mans or a womans. It is a lovely fragrance. One of the most approachable of Mr Pregoni's so far I think. I for one am really looking foward to it's release so that we can see what people make of it.
 

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