Sample of the Day - September 2021

Cook.bot

Common Lackey
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
"Regal comports itself with an imperious air, leaving lesser perfumes trailing in its wake." ???

Holy mackerel. And we thought Ralph Lauren was bad with the colonialism.

Here you go, MasterP: I found you the perfect outfit to wear while you march across pastoral lands and leave lesser perfumes trailing in your wake:

queen1.jpg


 
Last edited:

cheapimitation

Well-known member
May 15, 2015
Louis Vuitton - Nuit de Feu

The house I love to hate. But seriously, when I really don't like a brand that others love, I am motivated to investigate it and see if there is something to it that I'm missing.

I've worn Nuit de Feu maybe 3-4 times now from a sample and it is growing on me. My initial impression was "ugh not this again" because it does generally have that designer oud profile of something bitter/smokey/woody/leathery. Despite wearing it several times, I still don't get all the nuance some (youtubers) talk about. To me, it is so smoothly blended it comes off as just one single smell.

What sets it apart from others in the genre is that it does wear particularly soft but persistent and it smells quite smooth and elegant. Still, it's not really my genre and I'm not sure I'm sold on it. Having tried most of the masculine LV releases by now, I do maintain its the best thing in the range.
 

Wingie

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 2, 2009
Histoires de Parfums - 1831 Norma Bellini

A beautiful, amber-y aldehydic floral with a retro feel. Definitely smells like a darker version of No. 5 - if you put this in a Chanel bottle I wouldn't have known the difference. Recommended to lovers of No. 5. and No.5 vintage EDC.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Bootylicious the Vertiginous - Seductive

“A fragrance created to embrace the power of seduction. This perfume envelopes the senses giving the feeling of power, confidence and captivation. A highly physical fragrance filled with smoky flirtations and smooth prowess. Seduction and sedition are alive and well in the shape of this strikingly physical fragrance, an irresistible eau de perfume [sic] of immense sophistication. Naughtily flirtatious, Seductive’s sexy character derives from menthol top notes that sharpen the allure, melodious wood-and-herb middle notes and a back-to-nature base that glides onto the skin in the most intimate manner. Set to seduce wearer and follower alike, Seductive works in clever ways, never over imposing or overpowering but simply indulging the senses in a fantasia of fragrant captivation.”

Top: menthol
Heart: rosemary
Base: musk, amber, sandalwood

I don’t think Casanova would have worn this, but the first few minutes are nice. I’ll report back later.

*

OK, it's later. The BN pyramid states the presence of iris and fir, while reviews suggest all sorts of other things. I'm not picking them up; I think those are just interpretations of the official notes. Anyway, the menthol/rosemary combo was kinda punchy up front, then settled back into the cushion of BtV's typical base accord of musk, amber, and sandalwood, all likely synthetic. Nice? Sure. Seductive? Not terribly. "Immense sophistication?" "Naughtily flirtatious?" Not on this planet. Worth the price of admission? Not for me—but I'll still keep the sample.
 
Last edited:

cazaubon

Moderator
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Jan 1, 2005
Tried a whole bunch of Louis Vuitton stuff today. The women’s scents were weak, lots of stuff had a cheap designer smell, sniffing the nozzles of the men’s scents was very uninspiring. I’m writing this brand off.

Then tried BR540 extrait. It irritated my nose and gave me a headache. Tom Ford Bitter Peach was a no. So much money saved today!
 

teardrop

Well-known member
Sep 1, 2010
Tested a couple of things in-store & on skin today:

Alien Goddess by Mugler: apparently this is meant to be jasmine, but l smell rubbery lily, creamy coconut & vanilla. lt's a nice beachy fragrance but not a patch on original Alien, & after two hours it's very soft. l still feel compelled to try every Alien flanker that appears, though.

Tom Ford Black Orchid Parfum: another one l had to try as a devotee of the original. l'd say it's more harshly woody in the opening, with more fruit & less of the creamy, coconutty floral notes, but as it dries down any differences are much more subtle. lt radiates less, but in the end l think it's so similar to the original that owning both would be redundant.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Taking a break from BtV to do the Friday Fall Sync with:

0137611B-3857-44D4-A8D9-81AB18F15218.jpg

Violet - Pourpre d'Automne

Not, however, taking a break from posting promotional "pourpre" prose:

"Olfactive Universe: Lipstick on the complexion of a purple cheek, it drapes the nose of its velvet scent. Its warm, autumnal colors radiate into the depths of senses. The depiction of fragility imbued with recklessness, a flower piercing a bronze floor. A scent of contagious poetry, the touch of a delicate moment. Pourpre d’Automne was imagined as the nuances of a season. With the alliance of an organic rose and a purified violet, the perfume is a colorful invitation into the heart of its generous flowers. The iridescent, cosmetic and powdery scents bring a warm nostalgia, exacerbated by peach and plum, end-of-season fruits. Its mossy chypré atmosphere associated with benzoin creates a copper-colored carpet which gives Pourpre d’Automne all the poetry of the colorful leaves, twirling over time."

"Historical Inspiration: 1923, a wind of poetry rushing into the vigour of this bubbling period hummed enchanting and liberating lullabies. Violet, from the core of its perfume workshop, listened to the whispers of its century, creating Pourpre d'Automne. A perfume crossed by the lyricism of its time, its chypre ornaments and its figurative fruits. Pourpre d'Automne is none other than the scent of poetic melancholy."

I suspect all this sounds better in French, so long as you don't understand French.

Anyway, "lipstick," at least, is on point, as everything before and after seems intended to support the lipstick-y iris in the heart. Too, it is a warm iris ("autumnal colors" or not), which is a neat trick with a notoriously cool, rooty floral. It may not be the scent of poetic melancholy, but it's quite lovely nonetheless, and my iris-loving wife might want to try it.

(I was right: she likes it.)
 
Last edited:

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Budokan the Vestigial - Exalted

“Exalted boasts a stirring synthesis of citrus top notes, woody base notes and a flamboyant floral heart. Experience the shear [sic] exhilaration it brings each time you wear it. There’s a lofty grandeur to this noble eau de perfume [sic], a stirring synthesis of keen citrus top notes, woody base notes and a flamboyant floral heart exuding clove, lychee and a riot of heady scents from tuberose and orange blossom to iris and peach. It is small wonder that Exalted has become a firm favourite with those who are unafraid to be noticed, who take pride in celebrating British craftsmanship and pleasure in all things bright and beautiful. Experience for yourself the feeling of exultation that comes from wearing such an exhilarating creation.”

The citrus notes appear to be gone from my sample sprayer, so instead it plunges headlong into white florals, mostly an unspectacular jasmine. My hopes are not high.

That was wise: while BtV's signature base (amber/musk/vanilla/cedarwood/sandalwood), unlike the promised flamboyant riot of heady scents, eventually makes a welcome appearance, the fragrance otherwise never gets much beyond the initial icy rose-and-violet-glazed jasmine. Were it not for the hoopla, that'd be fine, though not my thing.

While this is still in stock in some shops, it no longer appears on BtV’s website alongside the other 120+ fragrances, suggesting that it’s not so firm a favorite with those unafraid to be noticed after all.
 
Last edited:

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
This prose is giving me existential exhaustion.

I can't believe they've only been around for 9 years and they've put out 127 perfumes. That's 14 scents a year, ferchrissake.
Agreed. Quantity isn’t necessarily the antithesis of quality, but that’s bonkers for a niche house, and it shows in the wildly erratic nature of even my small selection of their product line.

They make a big deal about British craftsmanship, but so far as I can tell, that just means the bottles were made and designed there and perhaps the fragrances are manufactured there. But the ingredients are mostly sourced from outside Britain, and I’ll bet they use foreign perfumers as well. So, it makes for a certain type of hype along with the strong imagery of the admittedly beautiful and coherent packaging, but the text is a mess and the actual perfume runs the gamut. It’s like they’re throwing whatever they can think of at the wall to see what sticks. Which would be fine if they weren’t asking anywhere from $3-10/ml.

I have no idea what the long-term prospects are for an operation like this, but it reminds me of what Clive Christian did after the initial release, and look how many times that label has changed ownership because it couldn’t turn a profit.
 

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
Agreed. Quantity isn’t necessarily the antithesis of quality, but that’s bonkers for a niche house, and it shows in the wildly erratic nature of even my small selection of their product line.

They make a big deal about British craftsmanship, but so far as I can tell, that just means the bottles were made and designed there and perhaps the fragrances are manufactured there. But the ingredients are mostly sourced from outside Britain, and I’ll bet they use foreign perfumers as well. So, it makes for a certain type of hype along with the strong imagery of the admittedly beautiful and coherent packaging, but the text is a mess and the actual perfume runs the gamut. It’s like they’re throwing whatever they can think of at the wall to see what sticks. Which would be fine if they weren’t asking anywhere from $3-10/ml.

I have no idea what the long-term prospects are for an operation like this, but it reminds me of what Clive Christian did after the initial release, and look how many times that label has changed ownership because it couldn’t turn a profit.

I've said it before elsewhere that these fly-by-night luxury perfume brands feel like less of an honest attempt at establishing a serious niche perfume brand, and more of a place for some rich businessperson to hide their money from taxes, or waste it on a passion project that becomes someone else's problem once they get bored with their plaything.

Sometimes they have previous ties to the perfume world (Roja Dove, Julien Sprecher), sometimes they don't (Sergio Momo, Clive Christian), but these brands always seem to be bought up by conglomerate (showing a profitable flip of investment), or they fizzle into obscurity like Phuong Dang and Royal Crown. Always though, they have crazy price tags and an army of selections to try right out the gate, which belies any "niche" craftsmanship.

Victoria the Bodacious sounds neat, though.
 

Cook.bot

Common Lackey
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
I've said it before elsewhere that these fly-by-night luxury perfume brands feel like less of an honest attempt at establishing a serious niche perfume brand, and more of a place for some rich businessperson to hide their money from taxes, or waste it on a passion project that becomes someone else's problem once they get bored with their plaything.

The modern equivalent of the oligarch's wife who opens an antique store to soak up hubby's money and keep herself busy between charity galas? The tax dodge angle seems plausible, or even money laundering -- but those are usually more cash-heavy businesses.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
I've said it before elsewhere that these fly-by-night luxury perfume brands feel like less of an honest attempt at establishing a serious niche perfume brand, and more of a place for some rich businessperson to hide their money from taxes, or waste it on a passion project that becomes someone else's problem once they get bored with their plaything.

Sometimes they have previous ties to the perfume world (Roja Dove, Julien Sprecher), sometimes they don't (Sergio Momo, Clive Christian), but these brands always seem to be bought up by conglomerate (showing a profitable flip of investment), or they fizzle into obscurity like Phuong Dang and Royal Crown. Always though, they have crazy price tags and an army of selections to try right out the gate, which belies any "niche" craftsmanship.

Of course, it doesn't mean you can't make a perfectly fine perfume. BtV has some, Roja certainly does, as does CC. It's just insulting that they transparently play their market for suckers. It's not just about production and promotion, but curation. Roja's probably a bit better at that, since he's essentially a curator to begin with, and I wonder if some of his galling pretension is tongue-in-cheek. That doesn't make his period recreations any more affordable, though.
 

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
Of course, it doesn't mean you can't make a perfectly fine perfume. BtV has some, Roja certainly does, as does CC. It's just insulting that they transparently play their market for suckers. It's not just about production and promotion, but curation. Roja's probably a bit better at that, since he's essentially a curator to begin with, and I wonder if some of his galling pretension is tongue-in-cheek. That doesn't make his period recreations any more affordable, though.

Roja Dove as a person gets an honorary pass from me, because he's genuinely interested in promoting the wearing of perfume and educating the buyer so they move beyond the casual "Sauvage Joe" into someone more passionate about their fragrance choices. Like you said, that doesn't make his perfume any cheaper, but I suppose the Parfum Cologne range was his small acquiescence to accessibility.

As for his smoking jackets and super-practiced received pronunciation, it's probably his real personality. He's one dash John Inman, one dash Liberace/Elton John, and one dash Rip Taylor. Very old-school gay that my radar picked up from across the ocean. It's a love/hate quirk for me that he rolls the R's and puts the pinkies out, but types like him are usually way more catty in private. I bet he's fun to talk with off-camera.
 
Last edited:

StylinLA

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2009
Roja Dove as a person gets an honorary pass from me, because he's genuinely interested in promoting the wearing of perfume and educating the buyer so they move beyond the casual "Sauvage Joe" into someone more passionate about their fragrance choices. Like you said, that doesn't make his perfume any cheaper, but I suppose the Parfum Cologne range was his small acquiescence to accessibility.

As for his smoking jackets and super-practiced received pronunciation, it's probably his real personality. He's one dash John Inman, one dash Liberace/Elton John, and one dash Rip Taylor. Very old-school gay that my radar picked up from across the ocean. It's a love/hate quirk for me that he rolls the R's and puts the pinkies out, but types like him are usually way more catty in private. I bet he's fun to talk with off-camera.

I'm with you 100% here. Very well put.

Yeah, some of his prices are crazy, but it's pretty clear he's just a fraghead like many of us. I've seen a few videos and interviews with him online and it's pretty clear there is a deep passion for perfume there. Sure he wants to make money and plenty of it, but that's not his fundamental drive. If he didn't make scents, he'd be a frequent poster in here.

Yes, a private chat with him would be fun. Hearing him rip on some other perfumers and companies would be enlightening and funny. I don't think the wardrobe, accent, etc are an act. WYSIWYG
 

freewheelingvagabond

Well-known member
Jun 10, 2012
Aqua Vitae Forte

Even though I'm wearing off a sample, this is my second sample and I've worn it 9 times.

Exquisitely crafted fresh-warm opening notes of ylang-ylang and orange blossom with lemon. The floral notes smooth out the sharpness of the citrus notes. The effect is very clean and radiant. Perhaps a bit too squeaky clean and polished, especially if over-sprayed, and can feel a tad synthetic - however, this effect doesn't linger and is gone by the hour mark. The evolution is somewhat linear - there is a clean, white musk that joins the floral notes, reminding me a bit of 1957 by Chanel. The dry down has a lovely semi-sweet soft woody accord hinting at sandalwood (official notes are sandalwood and guaiac wood). Excellent tenacity and silky sillage. Might get a bottle of it eventually.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Boadi the Vicarious - Ardent

“Inspired by the feelings of falling in love, Ardent is both addictive and alluring. Rich with emotion and warmth, the stirring nature of this scent cannot be ignored. Creamy and comforting whilst passionate and intriguing, it is the perfume for both new beginnings and enduring love. Ardent is a fragrance full of romantic drama—indulging the senses in a pulse-raising exhibition of passionate sensuality that brings to mind sultry, seductive evenings in a far-off exotic land. Let your ardour burn as saffron and Turkish rose play lightly on the skin, giving way to beeswax and the receptor-arousing hedione. There’s argarwood in here too, alongside precious amber and benzoin—spirited ingredients set to arouse and incite the thrill seeker inside you. There are times when only a touch of true indulgence will suffice. That time is now.”

Top: saffron, Turkish rose
Heart: rose
Base: musk, amber, patchouli, vanilla

Another perfectly nice, if both literally and figuratively vanilla, fragrance undermined by hyperbole. Ostensibly a floral, the rose (Turkish and/or otherwise) never really gets to bloom before the amber/vanilla base takes over. It’s in there somewhere, but Ardent is still more blancmange than bouquet. There’s an old-fashioned prettiness at play that might work better for some than for me. To my nose, it’s a reductive take on vintage feminines that eschews their nuance in favor of padded lushness. Still, an understandable date night choice for a certain woman (less likely a certain man).

Turns out the brand is the brainchild of London-born celebrity hairstylist-cum-“master perfumer” Michael Boadi, hence “Boadicea.” He has no formal training in perfumery, which isn’t surprising; but he has a BFA in English Lit., which, given the breathless blurbs, is. He’s moved on to Valhalla—the perfumery, not the place. You can’t fault him for lack of initiative.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Bergamot the Viscous - Dasman

"Dasman will allow you to drift off into far off lands in dreamlike perfection. Harking to an ancient time, whilst not forgetting its present, Dasman is modern with traditional soft and wistful undertones. The shimmering allure of the Middle East is epitomized in Dasman, the thrilling new perfume from Boadicea the Victorious. Created to celebrate Kuwait National Day, Dasman is fiercely independent, redolent with history and sovereignty – a perfect fit with the pioneering spirit of Queen Boadicea herself. Cultured and sophisticated, this is a scent that binds roses and neroli with spicy saffron and bergamot, infused with an intense undercurrent of Cambodian oud, musks, vetiver and patchouli."

Top: saffron, bergamot, lavender, geranium
Heart: Turkish rose, rose, neroli
Base: amber, musk, oud, patchouli, vetiver, incense fusion, cypriol

Don't get me started on "redolent with sovereignty."

This is on a whole other, better planet from fragrances like Ardent and Exalted—and, at £400/100ml, it had better be. It plays with contrasts of sweet, sour, spicy, grassy, salty, and aromatic, taking the nose on an actual journey rather than a gradual surrender to the mundane. Chances that I would buy it at anything like retail are virtually nil, but I wouldn't be disappointed to receive it as a gift. (No, I'm not hinting.) Proof that Boadi isn't without talent, even if he apparently lacks humility.

Postscript: Would that I had waited for the final drydown, a blaring aromachem (though I confess I don't know which). Proof that talent isn't the same as skill. Dasman is off my gift list.
 
Last edited:

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Brouhaha the Voracious - Elite

“Elite is reminiscent of a burst of sunshine streaming from the sky in all its majestic splendour. It is both sophisticated and joyous, a beautiful balance of fresh playfulness paired with gentle woods and moss. … The elite. The crème de la crème. The haute monde. The glitterati who breeze through life surrounded by an aura of invincibility. These are the fortunate few we salute with our acclaimed Elite fragrance, a phenomenal scent full of the freshness of jasmine, lavender, geranium and citrus above musky, mossy animalic and forest infusions. Revel in its divine sophistication and profusion of playful elements – a joyous personality with a brightness that will entrance even the most hard to win over souls. Elite by name, elite by nature.”

Top: citrus fruits
Heart: neroli
Base: rose, clove, jasmine, lavender

This is the last of this crop of Boadicea the Victorious samples. (I should have a couple of others somewhere from a different source, but I'm not up to digging them out.) Per usual, the hype is awful and promises a rather different experience than does the pyramid. We shall see. The notes look fine, if some are oddly situated in the base, but I can’t imagine what could possibly warrant a £580 price tag. It’s out of stock at BtV’s website: do you think it was too popular?

Well, this one was truly regal in that it was the Emperor's New Perfume. I put it on, and—nada. That's not to say it had no smell at all: I haven't got COVID or any other form of broad anosmia, and the spray vial wasn't a factice. Rather, I just got some mild citrus and white flowers, which preceded to go approximately nowhere for several hours. I finally scrubbed it out of boredom.

Of all the BtVs I tried, the ones that actually impressed me were Sterling and Notorious, followed by Regal and, to a significantly lesser degree, Seductive and Back to Paradise. Mostly, they're nice (more or less) but dull (more and more): Energizer, Ardent, Exalted, Chariot, Glorious, and Elite are all passable as designer or at least drugstore scents, but hardly fulfill the promise of a niche house, especially not one as self-reverential as this. Nemer brought up the rear. Dasman was the most frustrating, because it showed initial promise on the order of Sterling, and then dashed it with the ham-handed base.

I've read glowing reviews and I wonder if it's just me or if people are that easily swayed by the hype. For the kind of money BtV asks (if not quite a bit less), I could buy rare vintages or genuinely masterful niche/artisanal fragrances. Founder/perfumer Michael Boadi has the sort of rags-to-riches story I'm inclined to embrace—I'm all for cheering on a gifted amateur from outside the academy—but both his formulae and his grandiloquence are, well, amateurish. The man could stand to spend a few years in Grasse honing his craft, so as to garner the elaborate praise of others rather than have to concoct it himself.
 
Last edited:

cheapimitation

Well-known member
May 15, 2015
Two Parle Moi that I expected to like but did not!

Orris Tattoo: aka where's the iris? I hardly get any iris from this, at least not in the usual way. Instead I get mostly soft white laundry musks, I feel like I've smelled this before. It did last a long time as laundry musk tends to do, but I didn't really enjoy it

Papyrus Oud Ah yes this scent profile is so familiar, I must've smelled the Gucci at some point or things inspired by it. Smokey dry woody but not really pleasant to my nose. It also feels simultaneously sharp but thin. Meh
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
74B8600D-4F70-43A9-B160-25420E319755.jpg

Violet - Un Air d’Apogée

"Olfactive Universe: Mesmerizing captivity, it is the equinox of attraction, the epitome of mastered seduction. Its bewitching wake possesses whoever wears it and submits whoever smells it. It does not only glorify the wearer, it completes him. It gives him all the sophistication of which it is the soul holder. To make one with its perfume is to reach the zenith, the "Apogée" of the wake. Un Air d’Apogée was imagined as the victory of contrasts. On the one hand the effusive light of the mimosa, and on the other, the deep velvet of the suede. Mystified by the captivating dimensions of the tobacco absolute and sacred by the notes of cistus and cedar wood, the honey envelops the whole in a sweet and heady euphoria. An olfactive melody which gives the apogée its grandest air."

"Historical Inspiration: 1932—Caught in the exhilaration of the roaring late twenties and its quivering atmosphere, Violet portrayed this contrasting era in a scent accented by restless nights. Un Air d'Apogée is an invitation to enjoy the essentials of what life has to offer. A scent of audacity."

Top: anise, sage
Heart: honey, mimosa, cedar
Base: Balkan tobacco, leather, ciste labdanum, ambroxan

Smelling notes to come.

*

The anise in the opening works well, but is unfortunately short-lived. The rest is pretty good, if not terribly distinctive, and perfumer Nathalie Lorson leans a tad heavily on the ambroxan for a scent that traces its inspiration to Maison Violet's original Apogée and the year 1932. I suppose that makes what would otherwise be an old-fashioned scent "modern." I could've used more tobacco and leather, but it's still a thumbs up for me, even if I'm not rushing to buy a bottle.
 
Last edited:

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Aha, so that's the source of that bizarre brand name.
"Boadicea" is a common alternate spelling of "Boudica," the Celtic warrior queen who led a revolt against the Romans colonizers. The revolt was ultimately futile—while she won her initial battles, she was not truly victorious. However, her name means "victorious," and so it's no surprise that she was particularly celebrated during the reign of Queen Victoria.

Obviously, Boadi was playing on the similarity of their names. It is interesting that he's a Londoner, though, and Boadicea burned early London to the ground. (It's recovered nicely during the ensuing two millennia.)
 

Cook.bot

Common Lackey
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
"Boadicea" is a common alternate spelling of "Boudica," the Celtic warrior queen who led a revolt against the Romans colonizers.

I did know that, but I didn't know about the perfume founder's name being Boadi.

And until pretty recently, I was pronouncing Boadicea as bo-ad-eh-CHEE-uh. Not that a lot of opportunities arose to say it aloud.
 

teardrop

Well-known member
Sep 1, 2010
l was allowed to choose a couple of free samples (from a limited selection) with a recent order from Les Senteurs.

First up, Sel Marin by Heeley:

The opening consists of a lovely salty sea breeze with leafy & lemony overtones, & no trace of calone. Unfortunately for me this impression is fleeting, as it quickly descends into a bilge-like accord of dark, bitter greens with a note of iodine. Perhaps this is what gives some reviewers the impression of seaweed. l also distinctly smell vetiver although it's not listed. After around forty minutes the bitterness fades slightly, & later there are hints of woods & sun-warmed skin. Five hours in, it's faded to a mineralic base, just detectable after nine hours.

l'm not a fan of vetiver, so although the opening was enjoyable, that note killed this one for me. lt also leans a little too masculine for my taste, & l prefer my beachy fragrances on the sun-soaked, tropical side. Cold, northern beaches at low tide just don't do it for me.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
F5994030-BAB4-4C7C-8566-6B5584EC2079.jpg

57E4863A-BD07-4EFC-9B99-8BA48AB7CF2E.jpg

Violet - Tanagra

“Olfactive Universe: Revealing the invisible, evocative of the unspeakable, it is the caress of a compliment, the interpreter of a palpable aura. It defends the singular beauty, the one that is grasped when one feels more than one observes. Orchestra of attraction, ode to sweetness, it exacerbates any form of femininity. It is a pastel glow piercing the opaline veil of the clouds. If beauty has the advantage of being memorable, its perfume has the elegance of being unforgettable. Tanagra, subtle expression of eternal delicacy. Tanagra is a perfume woven directly onto the skin. A powdery silk fabric marrying the most subtle lines, a musky cashmere caressing the sweetest curves. The body then becomes a haunting dance where every movement exalts this invisible envelope. Its wake, delicately floral, is sublimated by the beauty of the rose, the purity of the freesia and the grace of the iris.”

“Historical Inspiration: 1922—This period was conducive to sculptural art and saw the work of many renowned artists such as René Lalique, Lucien Gaillard and Auguste Rodin. And if they were linked to the history of the House, their friendship allowed Violet to present a fragrance that visually illustrates the textured aestheticism of women. Tanagra is the wake of inspiring beauty.”

“ST:TNG: Shaka—When the walls fell.”

Top: tangerine, pear, freesia
Heart: peony, iris, jasmine
Base: cedar, vetiver, musk

I have no idea what most of that tortured jumble means. I suspect it was composed by an AI trained with bad French romance novels after they'd been run through Google Translate. The interior of the sample holder is thankfully more prosaic—almost anything would be—but even then, what this fragrance has to do with ancient Greek statuettes is beyond me.

So, what does it smell like? "Fruity floral done right." The somewhat atypical selection of fruits and flowers over the tastefully subdued aromatic base avoids the cloying clichés of the genre. Instead, Tanagra is a delicately sweet fragrance almost in the manner of a traditional eau de cologne, and despite all the hype about "exacerbating femininity" in all its "textured aestheticism," it could easily be worn by women and men alike as a spring/summer beat-the-heat scent. In that way, this extends my Friday sync (which I did on Thursday because my wife has the day off from work today, warping my sense of where I am in the week).
 
Last edited:

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Okay, now I'm starting to think you're just inventing this lingua marketa.

:undecided:

Would that I were: all that gobbledygook was cut and pasted from the Violet website. (Well, except for the Star Trek reference, which arguably makes more sense.) To be fair to Boadicea and Violet, I suspect many other fragrance houses also employ failed poets to write their marketing blurbs, and I just haven't bothered seeking out their text and quoting it before.
 

Cook.bot

Common Lackey
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
Would that I were: all that gobbledygook was cut and pasted from the Violet website. (Well, except for the Star Trek reference, which arguably makes more sense.) To be fair to Boadicea and Violet, I suspect many other fragrance houses also employ failed poets to write their marketing blurbs, and I just haven't bothered seeking out their text and quoting it before.

I suspect someone is employing their unemployable brother-in-law to write the copy.

Honestly, the Tamarian language might be less opaque.
 

Latest News

Top