Sample of the Day - September 2021

Apr 28, 2021
BDK Creme de Cuir - dreamy and creamy soft citrus suede that strangely brings to mind memories of working in a guitar shop in the 90s. Specifically: brand new, Tolex-covered Fender valve amplifiers that have yet to be broken in.

Unique and full bottle worthy.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
DA470331-03D4-4203-888A-8AE8CFEB115A.jpg

Creating Perfume - Cashmeran 50%

When I ordered some perfumers’ alcohol some months ago, Creating Perfume offered a selection of trial samples from which I could pick four. First up is Cashmeran. CP describes it as “a diffusive, spicy, musk-like odor with strong floral reinforcement. Powdery, velvet nuance.” To my nose, it opened with an almost fruity but mild sweetness on top of a synth-oud/wood note, with the drydown leaning increasingly woody as it went. It was quite pleasant, with none of the scratchiness typically associated with WACs. I can’t say I recognized it from anything I’ve worn, but it’s doubtless been there.
 

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
View attachment 160714

Creating Perfume - Cashmeran 50%

When I ordered some perfumers’ alcohol some months ago, Creating Perfume offered a selection of trial samples from which I could pick four. First up is Cashmeran. CP describes it as “a diffusive, spicy, musk-like odor with strong floral reinforcement. Powdery, velvet nuance.” To my nose, it opened with an almost fruity but mild sweetness on top of a synth-oud/wood note, with the drydown leaning increasingly woody as it went. It was quite pleasant, with none of the scratchiness typically associated with WACs. I can’t say I recognized it from anything I’ve worn, but it’s doubtless been there.

Cashmeran kinda gives a warm fuzziness to perfumes when dosed moderately, which maybe responsible for the name. Calvin Klein Contradiction for Men (1999) is an early notable user of it (although still had some oakmoss too). It's overdosed in Dior Homme 2020, if you've smelled that one. Otherwise, I could name several things that have it, but not sure you've dove much into modern designers yet to recognize any of them. Same guy (John Hall of IFF) discovered both it and Iso E Super way back in the 60's. Guess they were probably micro-dosed if even used back then.

Kenneth Cole RSVP
Calvin Klein Reveal Man
L'Eau Majeure d'Issey by Issey Miyake
Comme de Carçons Wonderwood
Coach Platinum
Byredo Black Saffron
Tom Ford Fucking Fabulous
Many Initios (including Oud for Greatness
Many Parfum de Marlys (including Layton)
and it's a part of the blob that is Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Cashmeran kinda gives a warm fuzziness to perfumes when dosed moderately, which maybe responsible for the name. Calvin Klein Contradiction for Men (1999) is an early notable user of it (although still had some oakmoss too). It's overdosed in Dior Homme 2020, if you've smelled that one. Otherwise, I could name several things that have it, but not sure you've dove much into modern designers yet to recognize any of them. Same guy (John Hall of IFF) discovered both it and Iso E Super way back in the 60's. Guess they were probably micro-dosed if even used back then.

Kenneth Cole RSVP
Calvin Klein Reveal Man
L'Eau Majeure d'Issey by Issey Miyake
Comme de Carçons Wonderwood
Coach Platinum
Byredo Black Saffron
Tom Ford Fucking Fabulous
Many Initios (including Oud for Greatness
Many Parfum de Marlys (including Layton)
and it's a part of the blob that is Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

The only one of those I’ve smelled is BR540, which, as you say, is a blob. But I’ve seen it on ingredients lists for enough things that I’m sure I have it in something else. Anyway, it seems surprisingly complex (I forgot to mention a petroleum phase it morphed through) and “round” for an individual aromachem, and I should think judicious inclusion shouldn’t trigger revulsion amongst those who abhor the blatantly synthetic.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Creating Perfume - Habanolide

“HABANOLIDE® is a very powerful musk. It combines the strength and tenacity of the aromatic musks with the pleasantness and elegance of the macrocyclic musks. Excellent in all applications.”

Unlike Cashmeran, which is nearly a perfume unto itself, Habanolide is clearly a base note in search of a fragrance. I’m not getting either “laundry” or “deer” from this. It’s more of an unobtrusive pedal point, not quite animal, vegetable, or mineral. I could see it being useful to a perfumer looking to underpin a formula without significantly altering its character.
 

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
Creating Perfume - Habanolide

“HABANOLIDE® is a very powerful musk. It combines the strength and tenacity of the aromatic musks with the pleasantness and elegance of the macrocyclic musks. Excellent in all applications.”

Unlike Cashmeran, which is nearly a perfume unto itself, Habanolide is clearly a base note in search of a fragrance. I’m not getting either “laundry” or “deer” from this. It’s more of an unobtrusive pedal point, not quite animal, vegetable, or mineral. I could see it being useful to a perfumer looking to underpin a formula without significantly altering its character.

Copacabanalide smells like the piano after a Barry Manilow concert.
 

teardrop

Well-known member
Sep 1, 2010
Waikiki Pikake by Pacifica:

A friendly, very pretty, minty jasmine with very little of the indole that some find off-putting. lt warms nicely on the skin, & the sandalwood takes over around ninety minutes in. lt's quite soft, & fading fast after three hours, but it's a pleasant enough wear for a late summer's afternoon.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Creating Perfumes - Tonquitone

“TONQUITONE 0613 (IFF) has a strong deep animal musk. A true animal musk, but still has the soft warmth that makes musk so valuable in perfuming.”

I’m not sure what they mean by “true,” but this has some righteous animalic funk growling beneath a slightly gourmandish unsweetened coffee/cocoa top. I may have over-applied—whoops! I could absolutely see how one could use this to make a sensual fragrance. Now, if only I could get my cat to stop humping my arm.

Speaking of which, I had planned to wear:

“SHANGRALIDE OLIFFAC 0712 (IFF) is a highly diffusive sensual musk.”

Alas, my sample had evaporated. However, from the smell of the vial, a little would go a long way, and even that might be too far. Unlike Tonquitone, Shangrilide has an almost shrill edge to it. Blended well, it could be very effective, but I’m almost relieved I’ve been spared a day in it as a “solichem.”
 

teardrop

Well-known member
Sep 1, 2010
Jasmine by Demeter:

This is a straight-up jasmine soliflore, not unlike Montale's Jasmin Full in the opening, with a hint of hard candy & a touch of inky indole. Over the first forty-five minutes it slowly becomes softer & creamier, & from this point it fades until three hours in it's barely there. Nice, but like most Demeters it needs frequent reapplication to be enjoyed for any length of time.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
4210FCE0-4909-4EDA-887D-9B9A4BDF8D4C.jpg

Amouage - Bracken Man

I’ve actually tried this once before, and was unimpressed, but that was a while back, and I’d like to give it another pass now that I’ve smelled more things.

It's more appealing this time around, though still not what I'd call a knockout: a spicy modern fougère, but not too modern—that is, more iso E than ambroxan, aromatic rather than sweet. I applied lightly in the AM, and I've reapplied for an evening out. We'll see how I feel by bedtime.
 
Last edited:

naylor

Well-known member
Oct 24, 2011
Amouage - Bracken Man

I’ve actually tried this once before, and was unimpressed, but that was a while back, and I’d like to give it another pass now that I’ve smelled more things.

It's more appealing this time around, though still not what I'd call a knockout: a spicy modern fougère, but not too modern—that is, more iso E than ambroxan, aromatic rather than sweet. I applied lightly in the AM, and I've reapplied for an evening out. We'll see how I feel by bedtime.
I tried this one when it was first released and was equally unimpressed. Having been a long-time Amouage fan, the releases during this era started to turn me off from the house, and I quickly began dismissing them. I should revisit this one now that some time has passed and see if my impressions have changed at all.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
I tried this one when it was first released and was equally unimpressed. Having been a long-time Amouage fan, the releases during this era started to turn me off from the house, and I quickly began dismissing them. I should revisit this one now that some time has passed and see if my impressions have changed at all.
Yeah, it’s nice enough; it’s just a little underwhelming given the hoopla about Amouage. I probably wouldn’t grouse about if it were from Chanel, but I still wouldn’t buy a FB.
 

teardrop

Well-known member
Sep 1, 2010
Organic Glam Orange Blossom by The Organic Pharmacy:

This one is not in the Directory, but the listed notes on the website are: tangerine, mandarin, sweet orange, orange blossom & rosewood.

This begins with a burst of fresh, juicy citrus flesh, with all of the listed fruits readily apparent. lt's only slightly sweet, & within twenty minutes l get more of the faintly bitter citrus peel. Sadly, from here the scent flattens out into a vaguely fruity & generic oriental accord, & there's none of the creamy orange blossoms that l hoped for. Four hours in it hasn't changed, & the initially good projection has faded considerably. Disappointing, after such a promising start.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
A4194107-F3C7-4688-BB80-C9236393C377.jpg

ELDO - Exit the King

I somehow managed to forget that I had gone through MiamiRobbie’s decants. Bizarre. At the same time, I can find no record of my having reviewed this one, though I supposedly wore it on June 11 2021. So, it’s my SOTD, and if I experience déjà vu, that’s still better than a memory lapse.

…aaaaand I actually posted a review in the directory on June 12. I now recall Cook.bot raising an eyebrow at “Orcanox.” I need coffee desperately.

What I said then:

The pepper/jasmine/muguet/"soap foam accord" combo smells vaguely vegetal and aquatic: seaweed? Not exactly, but borderline. So, the king of a sand castle, as befits a perfume "inspired by the fall of patriarchal power."

The PR hyperbole says it's "resolutely chypre," but since there's no bergamot, labdanum, or oakmoss, "I do not think that means what you think it means." (The same comment applies to "the fall of patriarchal power," unless this is perfume that hasn't happened yet.) Buried beneath is a base of post-IFRA tree moss alongside fairly indistinct patchouli, an unconvincing sandalwood accord, and Orcanox brand ambroxide.

Mild, and mildly pleasant, but not something I'd really rock as, per the title, Elvis has left the building.
 

Wingie

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 2, 2009
I can find no record of my having reviewed this one, though I supposedly wore it on June 11 2021. So, it’s my SOTD, and if I experience déjà vu, that’s still better than a memory lapse.

You reviewed this one in the Friday sync thread on June 11th - the sync theme that week was Castles. I tried to post a link to that post but couldn't see how - you seemed quite underwhelmed with it though.

Before finding that post I actually remembered you stating in that review that Elvis had left the building, which is pretty crazy to remember that, yet I routinely forget the license plate of my car. Go figure.
 

Starblind

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Oct 2, 2013
Creating Perfumes - Tonquitone

“TONQUITONE 0613 (IFF) has a strong deep animal musk. A true animal musk, but still has the soft warmth that makes musk so valuable in perfuming.”

I’m not sure what they mean by “true,” but this has some righteous animalic funk growling beneath a slightly gourmandish unsweetened coffee/cocoa top. I may have over-applied—whoops! I could absolutely see how one could use this to make a sensual fragrance. Now, if only I could get my cat to stop humping my arm.

Speaking of which, I had planned to wear:

“SHANGRALIDE OLIFFAC 0712 (IFF) is a highly diffusive sensual musk.”

Alas, my sample had evaporated. However, from the smell of the vial, a little would go a long way, and even that might be too far. Unlike Tonquitone, Shangrilide has an almost shrill edge to it. Blended well, it could be very effective, but I’m almost relieved I’ve been spared a day in it as a “solichem.”

I'm finding your reviews of these aroma chemicals utterly fascinating! I'm someone who probably won't ever sample individual 'notes' like this, so your explanations of how each of these smells is definitely educational.
 

Starblind

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Oct 2, 2013
Jasmine by Demeter:

This is a straight-up jasmine soliflore, not unlike Montale's Jasmin Full in the opening, with a hint of hard candy & a touch of inky indole. Over the first forty-five minutes it slowly becomes softer & creamier, & from this point it fades until three hours in it's barely there. Nice, but like most Demeters it needs frequent reapplication to be enjoyed for any length of time.


When I was much younger, I happened open a bottle of Demeter's Dirt and became quite fascinated and actually wore it as a sort of signature scent for a while. I wonder if any of the Demeter line frags are actually something worthy of genuine praise. (I'll check the forum threads and see what folks have to say.)
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
I'm finding your reviews of these aroma chemicals utterly fascinating! I'm someone who probably won't ever sample individual 'notes' like this, so your explanations of how each of these smells is definitely educational.
You’re very kind. Alas, I only had the four ACs, and I don’t anticipate acquiring more (though life is full of surprises). Having stumbled this morning on recalling what I’d already sampled, I’ll be moving on to about two weeks’ worth of Boadicea the Victorious fragrances that I definitely haven’t worn. Not the same thing by a long shot, but I hope you’ll find my reviews of some merit anyway.
 

teardrop

Well-known member
Sep 1, 2010
I actually remembered you stating in that review that Elvis had left the building, which is pretty crazy to remember that

l remember that, too! :cheesy:

When I was much younger, I happened open a bottle of Demeter's Dirt and became quite fascinated and actually wore it as a sort of signature scent for a while. I wonder if any of the Demeter line frags are actually something worthy of genuine praise. (I'll check the forum threads and see what folks have to say.)

Of the ones l've tried, Dirt was definitely the most fascinating, & the longest-lasting. l do own a bottle of Pistachio lce Cream, which is a very realistic & delicious pistachio scent, but for some reason l don't wear it often. l ought to remedy that soon, as nutty scents suit autumn very well...
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
The King has exited again thanks to the miracle of soap and water. Back on track:

0C558F08-50A4-4C26-A183-4C737521F981.jpg

Boadicea the Victorious - Energizer

The blurb: “A fragrance of positivity and reflection. Its beginning is uplifting with energetic and dancing citrus tones that take you away from the everyday, yet it's true beauty lies in its calm and muted musky dry down that will leave your soul hankering for more.”

Sure. Multi-citrus over vetiver and musk. I like this sort of thing, and I like this one. But, is it remarkable of its ilk? Not in the first ten minutes, but I’ll edit this later when Energizer and I have had more time together.

*

Some hours have passed, and Energizer remains both pleasant and unremarkable. I would think "energetic and dancing citrus tones" would play more with the bracing acidic aspects of citrus. However, after a brief burst of grapefruit at the top, this has settled into an amiable but not terribly energizing orange. The vetiver and musk are well in the background, and I wouldn't have identified them at all were they not in the pyramid. Nice, but the little thought that went into it doesn't justify paying a niche price for it.

Note: The BN directory has this categorized as feminine, but BtV advertises its entire line as gender neutral, which surely applies to this eau de cologne-style fragrance.
 
Last edited:

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
E894455D-B590-41EF-BC69-044CBC021D6A.jpg

Boadicea the Victorious - Sterling

Blurb: "Get acquainted with an eau de perfume that is utterly divine…a masterpiece, both bold and enticing. Sterling is most certainly for the wearer with the courage of his or her own convictions. Over a heart of feisty galbanum lies a top tier of green tea and clary sage from the Salvia family—potent, arid and nutty with the faintest trace of a bitter edge. Beneath gathers a formidable cohort of earth-oriented notes which range from leather, musk and myrrh to tonka with its redolent presence of vanilla, almond, cinnamon and cloves. Forthright and true."

Boadicea is lucky I'm reviewing the fragrances rather than the prose.

The name "Sterling" is a reasonable fit for this fragrance: the tea, sage, and galbanum form an impressionistically silver-tone metallic accord, albeit one more oxidized than freshly polished—not a bad thing, mind you. Leather and musk, I get, though not especially forward; likewise the myrrh and clove. Tonka, vanilla, almond, and cinnamon? Not coming through here; and that, too, is not a bad thing. Rather, this is a butch, smokey tea fragrance, the sage and faint clove steering the green tea toward lapsang souchong territory, and the base notes mirroring the vaporous top in a low octave unison. The galbanum isn't its usual fresh bright green self, but rather serves as the glint in what might otherwise be dull metal.

Per the purple prose above, this is not a crowd pleaser by nature: it's too resolutely grey for that. In fact, it calls to mind Grey Flannel, though the notes are quite different. In any case, Sterling, while inoffensive, is a scent unconcerned with being liked. I haven't quite decided if I like it myself; it's almost trying too hard to be aloof. Still, even if it isn't as friendly as the juicy orange of Energizer, I'm finding it to be better company. A spritz of this and a good book would make for a fine quiet evening at home.
 
Last edited:

teardrop

Well-known member
Sep 1, 2010
Jasmine Gardenia perfume oil by Olivia Care:

l was sent a couple of these oils in rollerball form by my dear basenotes buddy. l had never heard of this brand, & they aren't in the Directory, but looking at their website they appear to be a US-based body & skin care line. The oils l have seem to have been discontinued, but a few others are available.

This one, like many fragrances purporting to be gardenia, is actually a combination of tuberose & a clean jasmine. lt reminds me of Carolina Herrera's eponymous fragrance, in a softer, less shrill form. lt also bears similarities to Chanel Gardenia, which also is not gardenia. lt has good projection for an oil, at least for the first couple of hours, slowly becoming sweeter & creamier, before fading out around four hours in. lt's a nice enough fragrance if you're looking for a simple white floral, but for myself l prefer something with more depth & character.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
71D51F93-1578-4554-8E7F-DA19039D8964.jpg

Boadicea the Victorious - Chariot

Blurb: "Chariot will make you feel emboldened as it takes you on a journey of a lifetime. Dazzling citrus and florals culminate in a base to be rivaled. A scent of spirit and defiance mirroring that of our namesake, Queen Boadicea."

Top: bergamot, lemon, red berries
Heart: rose, cardamom, neroli
Base: oud, bluebell, cedar, musk, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla

Classified by BtV as "floral," and so it opens sweet and floral, albeit with scant bite from the citrus and not much specificity from the rose. The base notes are likewise indistinct: Oud? Bluebell? Where? Perhaps it's called "Chariot" because Boadicea is taking us for a ride. It might make a nice soap, but only at grocery store prices.
 
Last edited:

freewheelingvagabond

Well-known member
Jun 10, 2012
Cross-posting from MFD

Flash Back in New York (Olfactive Studio)

This is a warm, cosy, leathery-woodsy scent with a lot of spices. Prominent cumin, but no overload and nicely blended with the clary sage. The first hour or so also has a slight whiskey-like boozy element to it. It isn't floral as such, there is bit of a smoky element throughout and the dry-down of papyrus and vetiver gives it a darker tone. I also notice a bit of patchouli. This reminds me a little bit of Private Label, but as a composition this one is a bit more interesting. It smells excellent up close on skin, but unfortunately when smelled via projection in the air it seems to lose a bit of its depth and comes across as paler and lighter. Sometimes I appreciate that, but in this case it would have been wonderful if it had retained the same heft and punch as it does when smelled up close. I was quite interested after an initial wrist-test. After wearing it last night, I am not so anymore. I'd suggest something like Bel Ami over this.
 

Cook.bot

Common Lackey
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
I ordered a discovery set from Anatole Lebreton, on the strength of my admiration for his very strange and beguiling Grimoire. This week I sampled three of the eight scents in the kit:

Incarnata -- a panoramic iris journey. First: a Chanel lipstick hidden in a handbag in Little Edie Bouvier's closet for the past 25 years. Then a swampy green (wet iris stems in a vase?), then a base that's a very appealing interpretation of suede. Cold, intriguing and more than a little strange. Carried on heroically for almost 16 hours.

L'Eau de Merzhin -- wet green meadow. Lots of green (galbanum, hay, grass), but overly sweet and too damp for me. Worth giving a second try? Very durable for a greenie, like 10-12 hours.

Perfumista -- A very plush glamour-puss of a rose with pronounced sillage, and a departure from Lebreton's atmospheric scents. A lipsticky, fully-bloomed, waxy rose... a little fruity to start, then growing richer and more wine-like. Some hints of green stems. Nothing loud, no shouting here. A soft patchouli base, discreet and well mannered. I could see this being someone's reference rose scent. Surprisingly, I rather like it. About 6 hours of endurance.
 
Last edited:

teardrop

Well-known member
Sep 1, 2010
Apricot Fig perfume oil by Olivia Care, the second of the two rollerballs l have:

Bright, sweet & very realistic apricot in the opening. The fig is more present later in the drydown, but rather like Nicolai's Fig-Tea, l wouldn't call it a fig-prominent fragrance. Three hours in it's very soft, & probably won't last much longer.

Although l enjoy the apricot-like scent of osmanthus, this apricot fragrance lacks the floral aspect that gives osmanthus its depth. l think it might be great for layering though, or as a scented body lotion. And if you love the scent of apricots, you'd probably adore this.
 

Cook.bot

Common Lackey
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
Another from the Anatole Lebreton kit:

Bois Lumiere -- Skanky honey and beeswax, which reads as very urinous on me. And it's oversweetened with some syrupy immortelle. Not pleasant. Why would you put "wood" in your perfume's name and then have no discernible woody materials in it? Allegedly there's some cedar somewhere, but I can't smell a shred of it. There's a review of it on Fragrantica that made me laugh so hard; it opens with "There was a grim era of my life where the family cats were having a literal pissing contest in the toaster...."

I'm trying to be true to my signature line and not scrub this off.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Boadicea the Victorious - Back to Paradise

(No more BtV pics: they all look the same.)

Blurb: “A scent of sweet delight, Back to Paradise transports you to dreamy far off lands with white sandy shores that brim with romance and beauty. A scent of temptation and passion, a feeling of the intimate worn close to the skin to be enjoyed in rapture.”

Honestly, does that tell you anything about what this smells like? Here’s the breakdown per BtV:

Top: pineapple, bergamot, violet
Heart: honey, rose, jasmine
Base: vanilla, musk, sandalwood

That ought to tell you more. And yet, it doesn’t quite, and I’m not sure I can, either. After the Chariot disaster, I had low hopes for this set of notes, expecting some sugary fruity-floral mess atop sandalwood-print melamine veneer. But it’s not. Neither is it a hackneyed Polynesian pastiche, as one might suppose. I can pick out some of the notes with enough effort, but that’s immaterial, because this blend does what blends ought to do: it creates a whole that transcends the sum of its parts.

Is it amazing? Well, no. But it’s nice, and Dr. T. likes it, and that’ll do just fine.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Cook.bot is intriguing me with the Lebretons, and from his description, I think I might like Flash Back in NY more than FWV does, if I tried it. I’m enjoying all the other reviews, as well, but they’re not tempting me.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Boadicea the Victorious - Glorious

“Inspired by glorious summer days and blossoming British orchards, this carefree fragrance is loaded with playful mischief and will allow you to reminisce of a forgotten childhood. With an utterly enchanting blend of fruity florals and succulent delight, the luxury is palpable.”

Top: raspberry, peach, pineapple
Heart: rose, jasmine, cardamom, nutmeg
Base: vanilla, amber, cedar, musk, patchouli, sandalwood

Calling something “Glorious” (and “inspired”) doesn’t make it so. This is an undistinguished fruity floral made slightly more palatable by a couple of spices. But then, if they had called it “Meh,” they probably wouldn’t have sold as many.
 
Last edited:

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Boadicea the Victorious - Nemer

“Creamy, luxurious and sensual—the provocative power of Nemer is something to behold. It’s a perfume full of pure elegance that promises to satisfy … Nemer’s vibrant Turkish and Moroccan rose top notes are complemented by the central force of tiger oud, named after the tiger skin stripes which appear as the heart wood of the source tree is carefully cleaved. Few fragrances offer such vivacity on the skin, such a tingling feeling of luxury for the discerning few.”

Top: Turkish rose, rose, saffron
Heart: oud, patchouli
Base: amber, sandalwood

You coulda fooled me. When I put this on, I got a plasticky rubber scent, followed by a thin, slightly sweet aquatic note that's no kind of rose, saffron, or anything else allegedly in this that I've ever experienced. The "rubber" could be tiger oud, though I suspect nearly all of Nemer's oud is of a synthetic stripe. I had been looking forward to Nemer from the note pyramid, but this is simply dreadful—cheap and nasty (and not in the good way).
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Brunhilde the Vituperous - Notorious

“Not for the risk adverse! Notorious is bursting with the sense of anticipation. A fragrance packed with passion and principle reminiscent of the fire within all of us. The dangerous path leading to a sense of euphoria is what you can expect. The fire that burned in Boadicea to liberate her people led her to acts of notorious bravery and valour. That notoriety formed the focus of inspiration for Notorious, founded on incense, rock rose and the unmistakable allure of dark chocolate. Around these intense middle notes circulate cinnamon, saffron, sandalwood and cedar, bringing a delightful lightness of touch to balance the scandalous sensuality. Further attention is assured with a blatantly bold bass range of accords encompassing vetiver from Haiti and Virginian cedarwood.”


Top: saffron
Heart: chocolate.
Base: leather, amber, patchouli, sandalwood

Note that the blurb mentions incense, rock rose, cinnamon, Haitian vetiver, and Virginian cedar, none of which is in the pyramid. How they missed claiming oud is a mystery. No matter, this actually smells quite good, even if some of the notes were pulled out of a hat by the PR department. At this early stage, chocolate is most prominent, but as it’s unsweetened, it smells more like a spice than a dessert, which is reinforced by the other components. Spicy cocoa incense? I wish my grocery store smelled like that instead of “pumpkin spice.”
 

pfranka

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 1, 2010
Parfums d'Elmar - Sweet Temptation. I bought a sample pack from Parfumaria and asked for this as one of the five. It was hands-down my favorite. While I generally don't like amber-centric perfumes, this complex woody-gourmand amber is an exception. Yum. Can't stop smelling my shirt. There are two minuses: 1. Price and 2. Projection, though I don't think I'd want a perfume like this to project too loudly, but others might be disappointed by it. Not sure. Obviously I'd suggest trying a sample before purchase, since 495 Euro is not small change in the perfume world.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Brunhilde the Vituperous - Notorious

Poor Boadicea just can't get no respect from you.

I do have to admire your tenacity in keeping on, though. I think the kids these days call it "grit".

The name is a mouthful, so I figured I'd have fun with it as I soldiered through the rest. I figured you'd be the first to notice. But, hey, I did write:

…this actually smells quite good, even if some of the notes were pulled out of a hat by the PR department. At this early stage, chocolate is most prominent, but as it’s unsweetened, it smells more like a spice than a dessert, which is reinforced by the other components. Spicy cocoa incense? I wish my grocery store smelled like that instead of “pumpkin spice.”

And it's held up quite nicely through the day. I could almost see getting a bottle, but I might have to insist that they fire their copywriter as a condition. This is Bulwer-Lytton-level stuff. If it were remotely academic, it would warrant resurrecting the infamous Philosophy and Literature Bad Writing Contest.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Britannica the Vainglorious - Regal

“Seductive and commanding. Regal delivers a feeling of sophistication, allure and drama. Reminiscent of empire and conquest: Regal comports itself with an imperious air, leaving lesser perfumes trailing in its wake. Embark on a journey to Arabian shores to gather amber; venture into Paraguay for patchouli; head to Morocco for jasmine; march across pastoral landscapes to pick green summer fruits and handfuls of pungent herbs. Add some resonant animalistic notes and you have one of the most majestic eau de perfumes [sic] in our portfolio, full of underlying power yet supremely seductive. Truly a fragrance of most regal bearing.”

This promotional paean to imperialism strikes me as more than a little tone deaf. Although it’s ultimately neither here nor there with respect to the perfumery, it makes me actually want to dislike it. It’s long past time for the sun to set on this notion of the British Empire. That said, let’s move on.

Top: green fruits
Heart: jasmine, saffron, rose, violet
Base: sandalwood, amber, cedarwood, patchouli

This is quite a nice fragrance, chypre-esque without technically qualifying as a chypre, especially after the base notes come out to play. It's not ambery enough to read as an oriental, though wouldn't that be too fitting if it were? A bit jasmine-centric for my tastes, but that's not unusual, nor a fault. There's good movement as the listed notes play hide-and-seek with each other (and some moderate aromatic aromachems). It's also not particularly original, but what of it? Set aside the old-fashioned nationalism in the, er, "campaign," and you've got a lovely modern spin on an old-fashioned (but not remotely musty) perfume that you needn't be a Tory to enjoy.
 
Last edited:

Latest News

Top