Rose Poivrée's Formulation Has Not Changed!!!

Many people are saying things like 'I have heard'. Not one for innuendo or rumor mongering, I have spoken directly

to the CEO of 'The Different Company' about the RUMOUR of a possible reformulation of Rose

Poivrée
.

I have worn this for years, (since University) I think I may have a salient opinion.

Having acquired current samples this month directly from the company (also having been assured they represent

EXACTLY what is in the current bottles), I spent 3 actual days testing the samples against my (3rd bottle) of Rose

Poivree'. This 100ml bottle is about 3 years old. (I also have a small bit left in a 50ml bottle from my school

days that is literally about 7 years old).
I have tested under a variety of circumstances, pre-shower, post shower, after the gym, for a night out on my

Birthday (stupid hot weather,...), at home Animating my current Feature Film and even now as I type this in West

Hollywood, one on each wrist.

I have ~$20,000(USD) of Niche Fragrances in my Collection (in addition to more 'Commercial' fraggies than I

would care to lay claim to...) I have been a Colognissuer and Parfumista my entire Life. (I am 42yrs) I am not

easily swayed or tricked.

To this most Sensitive and Knowledgeable nose, The current (and every version) of Rose Poivrée are in a word, the

SAME.

In the Opening, the Middle and the Dry-down - Nothing is Missing, Nothing is changed, NOTHING IS DIFFERENT!

----->At least not to an Experienced Person with more than a rudimentary understanding of Chemistry and the

Volatility of Natural Substances.


Let me explain:

First A Primer on Naturals and 'MAN-MADE Aroma-Molecules';
If you think the current Rose Poivree' Formulation is radically Different... (see what I did there? ;~) Then

you need to be made aware of the fact that almost all Commercial Fragrances contain not Volatile Natural

Substances
but are instead created almost entirely of Man-Made Chemicals. Specifically, what are called 'Nature

-Identical Aroma Molecules' (although 'Nature-Identical' is a bit of a misnomer, 'Nature-Approximating' might

be better nomenclature as the man-made versions are created using only the largest 'spikes' read by the Chemical

Companies 'Mass-Spectrometers', These show the components of Natural Substances as a Visible Graph. The

graph is made up of a series of 'Spikes' (each 'Spike' represents the Relative Amount of any given Substance that is

a Component of the Complex NaturalBeing Tested)
Where things go awry (and the harm to the ART-Form Begins) Is in the MAN-MADE Chemical INTERPRETATION of the

Naturals. The Chemical 'Designers' (while undoubtedly doing their best) include their chemical approximation

of the 'subtances' that are most easily 'seen' (The Highest 'Spikes') BUT they cannot (or Do Not in

some cases due to cost) include the (many many more) 'substances' that are in small, even minute quantity -

but in an Art-form where Distinctive Detail and Specificity of Ingredients is of Tantamount Importance it would seem

that these minute substances are indeed what makes up the REAL character of the Naturals as ooposed to the

Flat Interpolations that are their Man-Made chemical equivalent.

The Daily Proof of this fragrant dichotomy is our ability to so very readily recognize 'chemicals' in a product, as

opposed to full rich naturals. I know I can.

As Luc GABRIEL CEO The Different Company put it:
"Like any mix of natural ingredients and alcohol it evolves over time. Think about wine and you’ll have a good

comparison. A cheap wine will not evolve over time (thank god!!!) a beautiful elaborate wine will change from year to

year. Same thing for Rose Poivrée"

What he means by that if I may be so bold to interpret, is that Cheap Fragrances composed of Man-Made Chemicals,

Just Sit there. They don't Evolve in the same way, they are what they are (good or not.....) until they go off.

Naturals Get more complex, more unique, they even take on a bit of different character SIMPLY based on how they are

stored (as we all know...)
Naturals, to answer the quote I am responding to, tend to get 'MORE STINKY' in that wonderful way we all are

reaching for. For that very reason it is nigh on impossible to test (without this crucial knowledge and

understanding) a FRESHLY-MADE BATCH against the contents of a Beloved Cherished and OLD bottle. The older

bottle while possibly (and i the case Definately) having the same Components and Amount of those Components will MOST

CERTAINLY not smeel exactly the same. IF IT DID IT WOULD MEAN THEY WERE NOT MADE OF MAN-MADE CHEMICALS NOT

BEAUTIFUL, RICH, COMPLEX and DETAILED NATURALS.

Put Simply, What you seem to be complaining about, is precisely the aspect and character of the product in question,

that you should be HAILING as a GIFT. As a Guarantee that it is Natural and capable of that most precious of

qualities of quality fragnrnces, the ablity to Evolve and become even more BEAUTIFUL.

This entire rumour stems from a Crisis of Patience (lack thereof, not to mention Faith. This is Jean Claude and

Celine' Elenna we are talking about not COTY)

I shall include Luc GABRIEL's words to me, I do not think he would mind. They are below. I will also paste this

response (minus the quote above) as a Blog Entry.
---> I will likely not respond to any posts that even slightly smack of negativity. I have been (virtually)

attacked for just about everything I have ever posted on this site (and therefore only post about once a year, if

that). Basenotes, is mostly an invaluable resource but I have found there exists a large contingent of less than

informed people who seem to both: Respond to nearly Everything and/but have very Little real information to impart.

(Annotated) Letter from the CEO of The Different Company:
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dear Robert,

As you know, when rumor has it, it is so difficult to go back to truth and reality. I’ve already heard what you talk

about and it is a heartbreak!
Let me here confirm a few facts, Which are easily verifiable and supported by rationale, data, witnesses, analysis

and actual products.

We have never EVER changed our formula on the Rose Poivrée.

Never, period.
And why should we? We would not betray ourselves on something as crucial as the very Fragrance itself, for a few

Euros saved...
No that’s not the spirit of the brand as you know.
We experience huge increases in the costs of components (that we have to partially transfer to our clients) but we

do not change the formula or the quality of the components.

In 2006 we ran out of Absolute of Osmanthus, specifically the quality we buy to a particular provider. For 6 months

we have not been able to provide our clients and we ran out of stock. For our n°1 ranking fragrance at the time.
So we prefer to choose to stop selling a fragrance if there is a problem rather than selling “sub products” not up to

the quality level of the company.

What is true though, and very true for our fragrances, is the following;
- We do not use artificial colors, conservatives, stabilizer in our fragrances. Never.
- We use a high end essence of Rose, one of the costliest components in perfumery.
- We regularly buy the essence of Rose (and of course its from Natural Rose Petals and like (all) natural components

it slightly changes, from one crop to another. Not enough though to change the fragrance itself and likely only

identifiable by a perfume composer.
- The Rose Poivrée is a relatively fragile fragrance, much more so than Sel de Vetiver for instance
- Its color changes over time due to the iron particles in the fragrance when exposed to light. This does not

change the fragrance itself.
- A fragrance is a mix of alcohol and natural ingredients and chemical ingredients. Like any mix of natural

ingredients and alcohol it evolves over time. Think about wine and you’ll have a good comparison. A cheap wine will

not evolve over time (thank god!!!) a beautiful elaborate wine will change from year to year. Same thing for Rose

Poivrée but after 3 years.

Your sample set is on the way and your feedback will be much appreciated.

With my best regards

Luc GABRIEL CEO The Different Company
Haute Parfumerie Contemporaine
22 Bis Rue des Volontaires 75015 PARIS

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

Blog Comments

Saintpaulia

Well-known member
Feb 27, 2011
Well you have convince me! Wow! Nothing like the horse's mouth.
Now, since you are in direct contact with Luc, ask him what's up with Celine?
What is she doing now that the new guy is installed as the in-house parfumier?
What's his name? can't remember now...was big deal recently the news that he is in and...we don't hear what happens to Celine!
 

fumes4ever

Banned
Sep 6, 2010
Ok a confession: I have not read the above article. Nevertheless this is my comment!

They will never cop to a reformulation. They'll claim it has to do with variation in qualities both objective and subjective resulting from the use of naturals. You as a mere customer who is now forced to wear a perfume that simply doesn't smell right, can hardly prove otherwise.

The moral, from their point of view: just keep buying the stuff, maybe another batch will come up smelling like what you remember! (And while you're at it, I've got a bridge to sell you!)

The moral, from our point of view is: damned these companies that want to make more money who started out great but then go dumbing down their formulae in order to move more "units"!!!
 

fumes4ever

Banned
Sep 6, 2010
correction: now that I think of it I guess some companies have admitted having done some reformulations. so to say that they "never will" cop to it is an exaggeration. they will certainly avoid it if possible. anybody who lived through the "new coke" fiasco knows enough not to trumpet a reformulation, let us say...
 

ECaruthers

Well-known member
Feb 8, 2009
If the 7 year old 'fume and the three year old and the brand new all smell the same, that means TDC is using very stable ingredients and you're storing them well. They don't degrade at the temperatures in you home or because of the little bit of light that gets through the bottle. This is an advantage of using a well defined set of synthetic ingredients. Good job!
 

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