Roja Dove's Fetish

Trebor

Well-known member
Apr 8, 2006
Fetish was released yesterday, so I decided to pop down to Harrods to give it a sniff.

It's very reminiscent of Mona di Orio's Cuir but possibly more complex (they've recently stopped stocking Mona di Orio fragrances, due to poor sales, so I couldn't compare). So, how is it different to Puredistance's M? It's darker, dirtier, smokier and more leathery (the castoreum is unmistakeable, with an initial birch tar-like presence). The opening was very promising but it soon left me feeling disappointed...

It's an EDP (with word that a parfum extrait is being released sometime next year) but I only got 4-5 hours longevity, after spritzing myself half a dozen times. Sillage ranged from moderate to close to the skin, but it wasn't very noticeable after the first hour. There were gentle wafts every now and again but not enough to truly satisfy me. During the drydown, it revealed a slight sweetness as time progressed - with traces of spices, vanilla, labdanum and oakmoss peering through.

On first impressions, I don't think it's really worth the money (£195 for 100ml). I'm also getting the impression that many of the Roja Doves are no different, in terms of performance on the skin (i.e. lacking).

And the search continues...
 

Trebor

Well-known member
Apr 8, 2006
Interesting, do you think this scent would appeal to fans of Puredistance M?
Most definitely, if you want a rawer/dirtier equivalent - M is graceful and suave, while Fetish is more rugged and primal. I could definitely detect some of M's DNA in Fetish, from time to time.
 

gandhajala

Well-known member
Sep 3, 2010
Thanks for sharing your impressions, Trebor.
I've been waiting for this to be released, so now it's out, I'll have to swing by.
Interesting he went for an EdP after all the recent extraits.
Totally agree with you about the longevity (or lack thereof) of many of Roja's perfmes.
 

Trebor

Well-known member
Apr 8, 2006
Thanks for sharing your impressions, Trebor.
I've been waiting for this to be released, so now it's out, I'll have to swing by.
Interesting he went for an EdP after all the recent extraits.
Totally agree with you about the longevity (or lack thereof) of many of Roja's perfmes.
Cheers, gandhajala!

Yeah, its been bugging me for some time now. I remember when Enslaved first came out and, although it stayed very close to the skin, its richness was undeniable - lasting a good 10-12 hours. With the recent releases, I'm not getting that (albeit an impressive opening that significantly peters out within an hour or so).
 

alfarom

Power Where You Need It
Basenotes Plus
Mar 4, 2011
I've to be honest,, I've not been impressed by any of the Dove's masculines...This one sounds structurally interesting but the longevity factor could definitely result being an issue...
 

Larimar

Well-known member
Apr 23, 2010
Interesting! Thanks Trebor for sharing your impressions! Well, the original perfume trio of Roja Dove was a different league, I am figuring this... Fortunately, I have Enslaved and Unspoken in Extraits and I am happy I paid what I thought was a high price, which is now really cheap compared to his new pricing.
 
Sep 7, 2011
Thank you for your initial impressions and heads up.

However, unfortunately, if it does not boast projection and longevity, it does not sound promising.
 

Trebor

Well-known member
Apr 8, 2006
Thanks, guys!

Well, here’s an update:

Today, I wore the same jacket that I wore yesterday and could still detect Fetish on one of my cuffs (some of which transferred onto my arm after taking it off). What did it smell like? Pretty much like M, to be honest.

This leads me to my next question. I’ve been noticing that a few releases, from the last couple of years, have apparently performed disappointingly on the skin, while lasting surprising well on clothes (especially cuffs). Does anyone have a reasonable explanation for this?
 

gandhajala

Well-known member
Sep 3, 2010
I had a chance to sniff this today.
Opens with a strong citrus (esp. lime) which though, disappears quite quickly. This thing is absolutely loaded with cardamom, which pretty much relegates the other spices (pepper, possibly a trace of cinnamon) to the background. At this stage, I found the leather to be more prominent on paper than on my skin. The leather really seems to come into its own during the drydown and is paired with a generous dose of castoreum. I'm enjoying this phase the most.

The leather + castoreum base is clearly inspired by the classics, like Lanvin's Scandal and Chanel's Cuir de Russie (pre Exclusifs), and is well done. The spices give it a certain warmth and perhaps update the whole thing. Personally, I'm happier in the 1920s, but there you go.

The parfum comes out mid-week, and I'd be interested to see how it compares.
Less cardamom and more leather would be my choice.


*edit*

The wonderfully skanky base was still detectable on my skin 12 hours after application (nose-to-wrist), which impressed me.
Picking up on Trebor's earlier point about its longevity on fabric - two days later, my jumper cuff has a definite smokey leather (birchtar?) + patchouli (?) whiff about it.
I'm keen to retest this.
 
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Larimar

Well-known member
Apr 23, 2010
Interesting G., thanks! Can you think of a perfume where the spiciness is similar? I have a hard time 'imagining' the smell in my mind. A Parfum sounds interesting then as the spiciness should be less in the foreground in such a composition, no?!
 

gandhajala

Well-known member
Sep 3, 2010
^ I can't think of one, to be honest L. It is rather a unique take on the genre.
It has now been on my skin for around 6 1/2 hours and, nose to wrist, I can still detect quite an animalic base.
The parfum (£295 / 50mL ) is definitely on my 'to test' list.
 

Redneck Perfumisto

League of Cycloöctadiene Isomer Aestheticists
Basenotes Plus
Feb 27, 2008
...This leads me to my next question. I’ve been noticing that a few releases, from the last couple of years, have apparently performed disappointingly on the skin, while lasting surprising well on clothes (especially cuffs). Does anyone have a reasonable explanation for this?

I would say biodegradability, which shows up more clearly and more quickly in new releases due to their relatively thin compositions. Your skin is both actively secreting enzymes, and providing a playground for happy one-celled friends that are lookin' for lunch, and doin' their own enzymatic stuff. Clothing is much more sterile.

Santos de Cartier is like an endless Chinese buffet for the little rascals. *burp*
 

Larimar

Well-known member
Apr 23, 2010
Interestingly, I did NOT like it. I expected to like it, but it is too aromatic, herbal (slightly in an Ambre Sultan way) for my leather liking. Also, it is the Spanish leather variety, but rather restrained (which is positive), but the accord is inevitably tiring and slightly screechy in the long run for me.
 

Dorian Gray

Well-known member
Jul 21, 2009
Just went mad and bought a bottle. I havent had the chance to give it a good wear yet but 1st impressions as an M lover are its pretty similar and very good. I'm wearing the parfum, 50ml for £295 and the EDP next to each other and the parfum is so much more leathery and powerful but finances dictated the EDP! Roja Dove was there himself and said he made this and M at the same time hence the similarities and that he kept the best one for himself. He rated it as one of his best, Vetiver being the one he thought he would be remembered for
 

Marais

Semi-Retired Member
Basenotes Plus
Nov 2, 2011
I tried this yesterday, along with the other Roja Dove masculines. It immediately called to mind M, but less dense, with more air between the notes. A modernised, less herbal Bel Ami, perhaps. Very good anyway (as they all were). I don't think the vetiver, good as it is, is distinctive enough to be a lasting legacy though. I preferred the other 3.
 

Trebor

Well-known member
Apr 8, 2006
I would say biodegradability, which shows up more clearly and more quickly in new releases due to their relatively thin compositions. Your skin is both actively secreting enzymes, and providing a playground for happy one-celled friends that are lookin' for lunch, and doin' their own enzymatic stuff. Clothing is much more sterile.

Santos de Cartier is like an endless Chinese buffet for the little rascals. *burp*
LOL! Thanks for that!

Roja Dove was there himself and said he made this and M at the same time hence the similarities and that he kept the best one for himself. He rated it as one of his best, Vetiver being the one he thought he would be remembered for
A bit of a slap in the face for those who purchased M, no?

I'm going to have to visit the boutique again to try the extrait. For the sake of my finances, I'm hoping not to like it...
 

thebeck

Well-known member
Mar 25, 2007
LOL! Thanks for that!


A bit of a slap in the face for those who purchased M, no?

I'm going to have to visit the boutique again to try the extrait. For the sake of my finances, I'm hoping not to like it...

More of a slap in the face to the company Puredistance.
 

Dorian Gray

Well-known member
Jul 21, 2009
I tried this yesterday, along with the other Roja Dove masculines. It immediately called to mind M, but less dense, with more air between the notes. A modernised, less herbal Bel Ami, perhaps. Very good anyway (as they all were). I don't think the vetiver, good as it is, is distinctive enough to be a lasting legacy though. I preferred the other 3.

It was mr Dove who classed it as his masterpiece. Personally
I prefer Fetish! I guess though if you were going to choose 1 Vetiver regardless of price this would be a contender

- - - Updated - - -

LOL! Thanks for that!


A bit of a slap in the face for those who purchased M, no?

I'm going to have to visit the boutique again to try the extrait. For the sake of my finances, I'm hoping not to like it...

The extrait is quite amazing and any problem with the longevity mentioned earlier does not apply. 8 hrs on and it's still going strong on my arm. I'll have to compare it with the M but initial impressions are it is just as good and the EDP is half the price!

- - - Updated - - -

20 odd hours and I can still smell the parfum on my arm so no longevity issues. Having smelt it alongside the M I'd say there's no point in owning both of them
 

hedonist222

Well-known member
Sep 13, 2010
anyone tried the extract?


i tried the EDP & loved it.

i found it to be balanced nicely from a composition perspective, longevity & projection very good.

any info on the pure parfum ?
 

Dorian Gray

Well-known member
Jul 21, 2009
It is even better. I just know that whatever the concentration, for some reason I end up spraying the same amount


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Dorian Gray

Well-known member
Jul 21, 2009
It is even better. I just know that whatever the concentration, for some reason I end up spraying the same amount


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Filomele

Well-known member
May 16, 2011
I agree. They "work better" in parfum concentration. I believe that the strenght point of Roja Dove both in the creation of sumptuous bases (castoreum for Fetish. Ambregris for Danger. Oakmoss for Scandal) and their interaction with some notes (leather in Fetish. Haiti vetiver in Danger. Rose de Mai in Scandal).

The higher concentration helps the perception of this and a greater longetivy/sillage (which EdP are poor). I also really like the way in which he deals the balmy scents (Enslaved) and the Cuir de Russie theme (Diaghilev, Semi-Bespoke No.5). I don't really like how he treats some orris (too fat) or fougerère (a little bit boring).



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hedonist222

Well-known member
Sep 13, 2010
I'd forgotten that Roja made & forgotten that it was mentioned on this thread.

I was wondering what M reminded me of. then it hit me, a restrained Fetish extrait.

then I see that M's been mentioned here.


both are very good.

if you were overwhelmed by Fetish, you'll be happy with M.


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hednic

Well-known member
Oct 25, 2007
I heard from friends who have tried it, nothing but good things about the parfum.


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Temptation

Well-known member
Mar 21, 2012
I had the opportunity to test several fragrances made by Roja Dove.

But I was not impressed.

M is the only one I really love and adore.

Funny, that Roja Dove made a masterpiece for another company, but created fragrances with a lack of character for his company.

The longevity is great on my skin, but the sillage is poor.

Most of his perfumes are not FBW.

Just my 0,01 Cent.
 

hedonist222

Well-known member
Sep 13, 2010
I had the opportunity to test several fragrances made by Roja Dove.

But I was not impressed.

M is the only one I really love and adore.

Funny, that Roja Dove made a masterpiece for another company, but created fragrances with a lack of character for his company.

The longevity is great on my skin, but the sillage is poor.

Most of his perfumes are not FBW.

Just my 0,01 Cent.
Everything you said is true but the opposite.
 

hednic

Well-known member
Oct 25, 2007
On my last trip to NYC, got a chance to try this at Osswalds. I thought it was interesting and very pleasant.

(2046)
 

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