Recent decent oakmoss fragrances?

Sheik Yerbouti

oakmoss fiend
Basenotes Plus
Jul 20, 2017
Has anyone come across a recent fragrance that evokes that great oakmoss feel of so many quality colognes and perfumes of the 20th century?
I miss that mossiness of things like vintage Eau Sauvage and Pour Monsieur and although I have somewhat come to terms with modern restrictions, my nose won't be told.

Thanks to a valued member here I have discovered one such recent mossy fragrance namely Geo F Trumpers Eucris (EDP) which is the kind of thing I'm referring to. It not only has a mossy scent but exudes a certain breadth, like an aura of scent that cocoons its wearer. Aventus is another that still maintains some sweet mossiness in the heart and base (of some batches).

Any others that come to mind?
 

L'Aventurier

Well-known member
May 8, 2008
French Lover by Frederic Malle is an oakmoss bomb, but the moss is combined with a lot of ambery woods (namely Iso E Super). It's one of my favorite modern oakmoss fragrances.

In terms of other modern oakmoss scents, I really enjoy New York Intense by Patricia de Nicolai. It's like a fougere/chypre hybrid, and although a bit too intense for me, I think it's an amazing fragrance. It has a dated feel, but also modern enough to wear, and was launched in 2014. Might be what you're looking for!
 

HauteParfumGourmand

Well-known member
Mar 16, 2017
Chypre-Siam or Russian Musk have the proper kind of oakmoss in them instead of substitutes, they aren't EU based :grin:
As for oakmoss accords to mimic the real thing, see above posts, they do a decent enough job.

EDIT: Also, IIRC Wasser did a good job with Mitsouko's recent formula, so there might still be enough oakmoss-like character.
 

Sheik Yerbouti

oakmoss fiend
Basenotes Plus
Jul 20, 2017
Thank you all for your suggestions so far.

The Rogue Perfumery offerings are by far the type of thing I'm looking for (at least on paper) especially Tabac Vert and Chype-Siam.

New York Intense has been on my radar for a while but haven't felt the need to delve deeper because of the numerous comparisons to Bois du Portugal which I own. I still keep an open mind but nothing Ive tried yet comes close to scratching the BdP itch.

L'Aventurier, I don't really mind if any suggested fragrances come off as a bit dated - as long as they strike the right chords.

I'll get my nose on as many as possible and order samples of the ones I can.

Keep 'em coming.
 

Ken_Russell

Well-known member
Jan 21, 2006
Among the less known and often surprisingly inexpensive Middle Eastern fragrance oils, particularly Khaliji by Al Rehab may also stand out-in surprising ways almost like a 70s fougere chypre nearly anticipating the powerhouse age, as if Paco Rabanne, Azzaro pour Homme, Van Cleef&Arpels pour Homme, vintage Givenchy Gentleman, Bogart Signature, even YSL pour Homme and No. 19 were to be completely recreated from more exotic, yet also more natural, pricier, less watered down ingredients/notes
 

tspencer

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jul 12, 2016
I recently bought Soivohle - Green Oakmoss, but have yet to give it a truly full wearing. I mean to do that soon. It smells very nice and natural off the nozzle and card tester. I cannot give a full report on my impressions just yet. But the sample I obtained and tested was good enough to get me to order a small bottle of it.

Note, this is not a fougere type green scent. It's got an almost honey accent to it. It's a nice break from the standard 'oakmoss' and is good IMO.

http://www.basenotes.net/ID26130249.html
 

freewheelingvagabond

Well-known member
Jun 10, 2012
Thanks for the interesting thread ...

I immediately think of stuff like MAAI (a musky floral chypre) and New York Intense (citrus-spice-amber-oakmoss-powder). However, these are very nuanced compositions, and not really 'oakmoss bomb' if you know what I mean. They are adequately mossy but also beautifully nuanced, and oakmoss is not the only star. You might like MAAI if you like stuff like Kouros. Regarding New York Intense, you must try it - not for oakmoss, but for what it is. I do think Bois du Portugal is a lovely scent, but in my opinion New York Intense is on a whole different level. I like complex classic Guerlain-esque compositions and so I might be biased when it comes to Nicolai - a matter of taste.

I also agree with the suggestions of Dryad and Tabac Vert. Dryad is a retro style green chypre, with plenty going on; if you like things like Cristalle, Devin then you need to get your nose on this. I received a sample of Tabac Vert in the mail today, incidentally. A very nice rustic accord of tobacco and oakmoss, refined; the style isn't complex like classic Guerlains, but leans towards that of the earlier Creeds (in style it reminds me of Baie de Genievre, Bois du Portugal and Dunhill's Blend 30). I've been doing a wrist test all evening; what I love most is sometimes I smell via projection (i.e. in the air, not by digging my nose into my wrist) a wonderful stark tobacco-leather accord. Definitely suggest you to get a sample, especially if you are after oakmoss. I need to spend more time with it and actually wear the stuff to have a more clear impression of it.

I haven't tried Eucris EdP, but very keen to try it now.
 

mr. reasonable

Well-known member
Jan 1, 2009
I need to get my hands on Dryad!

I think they may have discontinued it a year or so ago BUT if you have access to a Tiffany boutique check out Tiffany for Men. It's a sophisticated masculine chypriental, old school in the same vein as Nicolai's New York. I grabbed a few bottles a few years back when the oakmoss restrictions were announced. I don't think they reformulated it because it was a 'sleeper' - you have to ask for it, they only display jewelry in the stores :)
 

rum

Moderator
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Mar 17, 2011
The new Eucris really is a one-of-a-kind modern oakmoss bomb.

Others that come to mind are Chanel Pour Monsieur EdT. The oakmoss here is hidden with all the spices, but it is a wonderful fragrance, especially for this time of year.
Also, Patrick by Fragrances of Ireland is another one with a hint of moss, but neither of these are anywhere near loaded with as much as the Trumper.

Incidentally, I don't get any moss from French Lover. I am a fan of course but couldn't detect any moss in it. Perhaps it's because I'm so hyper-sensitive to the ISO E that all I am getting is the dry woods from that.
 

rum

Moderator
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Mar 17, 2011
I think they may have discontinued it a year or so ago BUT if you have access to a Tiffany boutique check out Tiffany for Men. It's a sophisticated masculine chypriental, old school in the same vein as Nicolai's New York. I grabbed a few bottles a few years back when the oakmoss restrictions were announced. I don't think they reformulated it because it was a 'sleeper' - you have to ask for it, they only display jewelry in the stores :)

Have they relaunched Tiffany for Men yet? I thought it was gone and that was it.
 

epapsiou

Always be smelling
Basenotes Plus
Sep 28, 2015
Not that I am aware of. Last year around this time they had about 1000- 2000(don't remember anymore but the SA showed me their inventory page) bottles in their warehouse. You could only get them if you go to their store and then they ship it to you.
Maybe they still have some left. I will find out next time I pop in there.
Have they relaunched Tiffany for Men yet? I thought it was gone and that was it.
 

rum

Moderator
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Mar 17, 2011
Not that I am aware of. Last year around this time they had about 1000- 2000(don't remember anymore but the SA showed me their inventory page) bottles in their warehouse. You could only get them if you go to their store and then they ship it to you.
Maybe they still have some left. I will find out next time I pop in there.

Not as far as the UK goes. I think they sold out a long time ago.

But I was wondering if the member that posted that above had any new info on it.
 

StylinLA

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2009
Thank you all for your suggestions so far.

New York Intense has been on my radar for a while but haven't felt the need to delve deeper because of the numerous comparisons to Bois du Portugal which I own. I still keep an open mind but nothing Ive tried yet comes close to scratching the BdP itch.

I love BdP. A favorite.

I just picked up New York Intense and am very impressed. Giving it first full wear today.

Put some on last night and it is not that much like BdP.

The original EdT DID smell a bit like BdP to me, mainly the opening notes.

I would say the "personality" of the scent is similar to BdP. Rich, classic, mature, masculine. But smells different enough to own both for me.

Don't blind buy--- sample. But I would encourage you to try it.
 

LiveJazz

Funky fresh
Basenotes Plus
Mar 16, 2006
I'll add Le Galion Eau Noble. It's a classic-smelling citrus herbal cyphre in the same vein as vintage Monsieur Ginvenchy and YSL Pour Homme (maybe falling somewhere between those two in tone). It's convincingly old-school and very mossy.

+1 on Dryad.

But really, I think you've already found the reference modern oakmoss in Eucris if you truly want that note to be the star above all others.
 
Last edited:

cpp214

Well-known member
Jan 20, 2011
Le Galion Special for Gentlemen has a decent amount of oakmoss in it as does Nicolai New York Intense. I think both were released in 2014.

I need to get my hands on Dryad!

I think they may have discontinued it a year or so ago BUT if you have access to a Tiffany boutique check out Tiffany for Men. It's a sophisticated masculine chypriental, old school in the same vein as Nicolai's New York. I grabbed a few bottles a few years back when the oakmoss restrictions were announced. I don't think they reformulated it because it was a 'sleeper' - you have to ask for it, they only display jewelry in the stores :)

Have they relaunched Tiffany for Men yet? I thought it was gone and that was it.

Not that I am aware of. Last year around this time they had about 1000- 2000(don't remember anymore but the SA showed me their inventory page) bottles in their warehouse. You could only get them if you go to their store and then they ship it to you.
Maybe they still have some left. I will find out next time I pop in there.

Tiffany for Men was absolutely reformulated. Vintage bottles have the silver cap with gold rim and the word "cologne" on the front of the bottle. The newer bottle which came out about 6-7 years ago had an all silver cap, silver rim and no "cologne" on the bottle. The reformulation is not worth owning in my opinion. The "powdery" aspect of the fragrance is not there, and the oakmoss is gone in that version. I bought one of the newer bottles directly from Tiffany around 2012-13.

Vintage version:
s-l1600 (1).jpg
Reformulation:
s-l1600.jpg

Even the color of the juice is different. New version is water-like, vintage was golden color.
 

epapsiou

Always be smelling
Basenotes Plus
Sep 28, 2015
I (and I think Rum too) was talking about the discontinuation of the reformulated stuff.
Tiffany got rid of that last year.
No more TfM -weak or otherwise :(
Le Galion Special for Gentlemen has a decent amount of oakmoss in it as does Nicolai New York Intense. I think both were released in 2014.







Tiffany for Men was absolutely reformulated. Vintage bottles have the silver cap with gold rim and the word "cologne" on the front of the bottle. The newer bottle which came out about 6-7 years ago had an all silver cap, silver rim and no "cologne" on the bottle. The reformulation is not worth owning in my opinion. The "powdery" aspect of the fragrance is not there, and the oakmoss is gone in that version. I bought one of the newer bottles directly from Tiffany around 2012-13.

Vintage version:
View attachment 90449
Reformulation:
View attachment 90450

Even the color of the juice is different. New version is water-like, vintage was golden color.
 

cpp214

Well-known member
Jan 20, 2011
I (and I think Rum too) was talking about the discontinuation of the reformulated stuff.
Tiffany got rid of that last year.
No more TfM -weak or otherwise

Ah I see. Yeah it's one of the greatest ever. Sad to see it go.
 

Sheik Yerbouti

oakmoss fiend
Basenotes Plus
Jul 20, 2017
Thanks for the interesting thread ...

I immediately think of stuff like MAAI (a musky floral chypre) and New York Intense (citrus-spice-amber-oakmoss-powder). However, these are very nuanced compositions, and not really 'oakmoss bomb' if you know what I mean. They are adequately mossy but also beautifully nuanced, and oakmoss is not the only star. You might like MAAI if you like stuff like Kouros. Regarding New York Intense, you must try it - not for oakmoss, but for what it is. I do think Bois du Portugal is a lovely scent, but in my opinion New York Intense is on a whole different level. I like complex classic Guerlain-esque compositions and so I might be biased when it comes to Nicolai - a matter of taste.

I also agree with the suggestions of Dryad and Tabac Vert. Dryad is a retro style green chypre, with plenty going on; if you like things like Cristalle, Devin then you need to get your nose on this. I received a sample of Tabac Vert in the mail today, incidentally. A very nice rustic accord of tobacco and oakmoss, refined; the style isn't complex like classic Guerlains, but leans towards that of the earlier Creeds (in style it reminds me of Baie de Genievre, Bois du Portugal and Dunhill's Blend 30). I've been doing a wrist test all evening; what I love most is sometimes I smell via projection (i.e. in the air, not by digging my nose into my wrist) a wonderful stark tobacco-leather accord. Definitely suggest you to get a sample, especially if you are after oakmoss. I need to spend more time with it and actually wear the stuff to have a more clear impression of it.

I haven't tried Eucris EdP, but very keen to try it now.

I appreciate your suggestions. You have to try Eucris. Strong oakmoss blackcurrant and cumin which I don't usually like in fragrances but they pull it off well here in the mix.


Ex-Nihilo French Affair. It's so good!

Thanks I'll look at this further.


Papillon Artisan Perfumes Dryad manages to smell pretty mossy.

Been on my radar for some time and will get my nose on it first chance I get.


Jeff Gordon Halston Z14 :thumbsup:

I already have a small bottle of this inbound :wink:


The new Eucris really is a one-of-a-kind modern oakmoss bomb.

Others that come to mind are Chanel Pour Monsieur EdT. The oakmoss here is hidden with all the spices, but it is a wonderful fragrance, especially for this time of year.
Also, Patrick by Fragrances of Ireland is another one with a hint of moss, but neither of these are anywhere near loaded with as much as the Trumpers.

Incidentally, I don't get any moss from French Lover. I am a fan of course but couldn't detect any moss in it. Perhaps it's because I'm so hyper-sensitive to the ISO E that all I am getting is the dry woods from that.

Chanel Pour Monsieur EDT somehow manages to simultaneously straddle timeless and dated. A wonderful scent that doesn't get the respect it deserves outside of the fragcomm. Patrick is a great green soapy fern. Its so fresh and spicy and gorgeous and somehow manages to be a fougere without the accompanying moss. It gives the idea of old oakmoss in feel but not in scent. As for Eucris...you're a top man for putting me onto this Rum.


I love BdP. A favorite.

I just picked up New York Intense and am very impressed. Giving it first full wear today.

Put some on last night and it is not that much like BdP.

The original EdT DID smell a bit like BdP to me, mainly the opening notes.

I would say the "personality" of the scent is similar to BdP. Rich, classic, mature, masculine. But smells different enough to own both for me.

Don't blind buy--- sample. But I would encourage you to try it.

New York Intense will definitely be sampled at first opportunity I get so thank you all for suggesting this one.


I'll add Le Galion Eau Noble. It's a classic-smelling citrus herbal cyphre in the same vein as vintage Monsieur Ginvenchy and YSL Pour Homme (maybe falling somewhere between those two in tone). It's convincingly old-school and very mossy.

+1 on Dryad.

But really, I think you've already found the reference modern oakmoss in Eucris if you truly want that note to be the star above all others.

Thanks for these LiveJazz , Le Gallon Eau Noble has also been added.


Regarding Rogue Perfumery, the wonderful folk there have been in touch and so I will be sampling Tabac Vert, Chypre-Siam and others much sooner than I anticipated. :wink:
Thank you Manny. :beer:

I'll be sure to give my impressions in due course.

Cheers
Sheik Yerbouti
 

andym72

Well-known member
Dec 19, 2008
I (and I think Rum too) was talking about the discontinuation of the reformulated stuff.
Tiffany got rid of that last year.
No more TfM -weak or otherwise :(

Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree aka EDP and vintage Tiffany for Men are cousins.

Same year. Same Perfumer. And a suspiciously similar note breakdown.

You do hear of stories where one of the scent companies like Givaudan create several variations on a theme for a client, and then one of the ones that’s not chosen gets hawked around other brands to see if any will take it.
 

epapsiou

Always be smelling
Basenotes Plus
Sep 28, 2015
Went to the local Tiffany's. They checked and they are all out in the US. Japan is the only place where they have a few in stock.
He did say that they are going to release a cologne (for men) very soon.

Not as far as the UK goes. I think they sold out a long time ago.

But I was wondering if the member that posted that above had any new info on it.
 

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree aka EDP and vintage Tiffany for Men are cousins.

Same year. Same Perfumer. And a suspiciously similar note breakdown.

You do hear of stories where one of the scent companies like Givaudan create several variations on a theme for a client, and then one of the ones that’s not chosen gets hawked around other brands to see if any will take it.

That's what happened with Tommy by Tommy Hilfiger. The scent which became Havana won out over it, and Hilfiger was looking to break into fragrance, so Estée Lauder offered up the loser as Tommy (which is why it had Aramis distribution in the beginning), then made something new for the feminine version.
 

Cook.bot

Common Lackey
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
That's what happened with Tommy by Tommy Hilfiger. The scent which became Havana won out over it, and Hilfiger was looking to break into fragrance, so Estée Lauder offered up the loser as Tommy (which is why it had Aramis distribution in the beginning), then made something new for the feminine version.

Where in the f#*!@ do you learn all this stuff??
 

mr. reasonable

Well-known member
Jan 1, 2009
Thanks for all the info on Tiffany for Men! I wasn't aware of the (relatively) recent reformulation but I do believe Tiffany dropped TfM, the Sport version (possibly the only fragrance with 'Sport' in the name that I would consider wearable) and the original women's scent when they released their new one over the last year or so, which has been getting a major marketing push, well beyond Tiffany boutiques. The stuff I bought was several years ago - the real deal, basically.

Nicolai's New York took a bit of a hit with the oakmoss restrictions - I bought the NY Intense and it's still pretty nice.

Another one worth looking out for is Acqua di Parma Profumo. It's marketed as a femme but I have no problem wearing it - very Mitsouko-like but more of a rich, boozy plum note wrapped up in a classic chypre structure - and a good solid oakmoss 'forest floor'. I have the original in the red box, I did see a newer version in a white box in Shanghai a coupla years ago. The tester smelt amazing but who knows - maybe it was an old tester, so I didn't grab the new one. Maybe next time I'm up there :)
 

onethinline

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2011
My brand-new bottle of Kouros (bought direct from YSL) is, remarkably enough, rather mossy, and has oak moss listed right in the middle of the allergen ingredients. Interesting. (Now if they’d just add the civetone back, which afaik the IFRA doesn’t prevent, we’d be in business.)

While he’s not Pierre Bourdon, you may want to check out the compositions that Will over at Barrister & Mann creates for his (excellent) shave soaps, aftershaves, and now several EdTs. He uses real oak moss in a number of his scents, including Seville (gorgeous citrus-herb-moss), Reserve Classic, and his chypres. Will’s a big fragrance nerd and has of late been reproducing classics (particularly among after shaves) like Sun Up, original Old Spice, and (I believe) Caldey Island Lavender.
 

Sheik Yerbouti

oakmoss fiend
Basenotes Plus
Jul 20, 2017
So a quick update after my recent search to find a solid recent oakmoss fragrance -




After a number of suggestions from trusted sources I’ve acquired bottes of

Mousse Illuminee by Rogue Perfumery,
Eucris EDP by Geo F Trumper and
New York Intense by Nicolaï


The first 2 are absolutely full blooded moss bombs, completely different style, but worthy of the thread title. New York Intense is a more rounded perfume with a notable well blended oakmoss note, but not a moss bomb. The bottle of Eucris I purchased is the EDP version which is a recent release and has a less pronounced cumin/caraway note than the original EDT. An extremely rugged and in your face expression of moss tempered with some dark fruit to balance out the upfront moss. I find its best used after a shave for that bracing manly hit of moss. It WILL wake you up and for me has been full botte worthy.

Mousse Illuminee on the other hand is more refined and has had the testosterone reigned in. A punch in the face on arrival is not the aim here. Its clear from the outset the entire composition is to show off this wonderful treemoss in all its glory along with a hefty dollop of lyral. This is elegant but still loud enough. It won’t be missed and will fill the room with wonderous ethereal notes projecting from its lucky wearer. This is hands down my favourite purchase of 2018.

The last in the list is arefined oriental chypre that leans towards Eau Sauvage. Many have compared it to Bois du Portugal, another I am extremely familiar with, but I don’t get the comparison. On first spray New York Intense seems a tad overdone but as with many other great perfumes they shouldnt be judged on first sniff, as the top notes subside to make way for the symphony beneath. At around the half hour mark it reveals a beautiful heart of spices and amber but the top notes haven’t entirely disappeared. They blend excellently with the heart and by the hour mark they create a sweet Eau Sauvage-esque accord with spices and amber providing a gorgeous warmth. It has a slightly creamy second-skin quality that doesn’t project particularly far but the scent lasts all day, at least on my skin.

NY Intense feels more like a refined airy perfume than a gents cologne whereas Eucris is a mossy aftershave cologne with EDP concentration. Mousse Illuminee is somewhere between with the power and mossiness of Eucris, but the elegance of the Nicolaï.

I am extremely chuffed that I have discovered these gems - they will be a part of my wardrobe for a very long time to come.
 

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