Rank the best Maison Francis Kurkdjian fragrances

cocoemre

Member
Oct 14, 2018
Bcr 540 extrait

Aqua cellestia forte

Petit Matin

Amyris homme

Oud satin mood extrait

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Adonna

Well-known member
May 20, 2010
I love each one.
If I smelled any of them on anyone I'd be happy.
My personal favorites
APLS
Lumière Noire Femme
a~~
 

satyen

Well-known member
Dec 11, 2018
After having gone through the discovery set of 8 samples the bottles i ended up with are aqua celestia, masculin pluriel and br540. Perhaps br540 was out of fomo as i barely use it... too sweet and too synthetic. The ones that gets the most use is masculin pluriel.

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Andy the frenchy

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2018
I've tried all the line, and the only full bottle worthy to my nose are

Lumiere Noire PH
APOM
Oud (extrait, not EDP)
Absolue Pour Le Matin
I would also add a travel spray of Petit Matin, and Acqua Vitae Forte but not a full bottle

Oud (EDP) is nice, but a woody saffron combo seen many times before. Same for all the rose/oud series (Satin, Silk &co.).
Grand Soir is good to great, but also not really original and has performance issues, unacceptable at that price point.


The 3 most popular are BR540, Masculin Pluriel and Absolue Pour Le Soir:

BR540 is very sweet (EDP or extrait), and will please the young crowds. To my nose, it's a synthetic mess, but some like it apparently.
Masculin Pluriel has sharp edges, at some point that I thought it was a blue frag with ambrox. Honestly, a great designer frag in that category, but not a niche frag that justifies the price point. Way better lavender frags around imo.
Absolue Pour Le Soir is a honey centered frag, described as "challenging/animalic" by some. No challenge to my nose, and no more animalics than the facet that honey usually delivers. Uninteresting to my nose, but may fully bloom on a woman with strong presence.

The rest is not even worth citing. Hope ti helps!
 

blackaroma

Well-known member
Apr 16, 2020
Has Kurkdjian done any other musky masculine in the vein as what he did for Narciso Rodriguez? Any MFK with that vibe? (Not Masculine Pluriel)
 

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
Versatility?

Amyris Homme
Gentle Fluidity Silver
masculin Pluriel
Petit Matin
APOM pour Homme
Lumière Noire pour Homme
Gentle Fluidity Gold
Grand Soir

Artistic Quality

Lumière Noire pour Homme
APOM pour Homme
Grand Soir
masculin Pluriel
Petit Matin
Gentle Fluidity Silver
Gentle Fluidity Gold
Amyris Homme
 

Buysblind

Well-known member
Jan 21, 2011
10. Absolu Pour Le Soir
9. Gentle Fluidity Silver
8. Lumiere Noire
7. Grand Soir
6. Ciel de Gum
5. Aqua Universalis
4. Amyris Homme
3. Petit Matin
2. Masculin Pluriel
1. Baccarat Rouge EDP

#1 to #5 are fragrances I would consider owning, #6 to 10 are okay, but not FBW to me.

I don’t like Oud fragrances very much, so objectively speaking, my list probably lacks some of his best work. I might raise APLS to #7.
 
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U2u

Well-known member
Jul 26, 2014
Absolue Pour Le Soir
Oud Satin Mood Extrait
Amyris Homme Extrait

Oud
Aqua Celestia
Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait
Grand Soir
The rest of the oud variants followed by the rest…
Heavily invested in this house. Really none that I don’t like so far.
Still need to sample Ciel de Gum. Probably be a blind buy one day.
 

d r e

Well-known member
Dec 24, 2018
10. Absolu Pour Le Soir
9. Gentle Fluidity Silver
8. Lumiere Noire
7. Grand Soir
6. Ciel de Gum
5. Aqua Universalis
4. Amyris Homme
3. Petit Matin
2. Masculin Pluriel
1. Baccarat Rouge EDP

#1 to #5 are fragrances I would consider owning, #6 to 10 are okay, but not FBW to me.

I don’t like Oud fragrances very much, so objectively speaking, my list probably lacks some of his best work. I might raise APLS to #7.

After what I tried, this is basically my top 5 too, with 2-4 being variable until I explore them more
 

Buzzlepuff

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 27, 2005
For MFK
1. Baccarat Rouge 540 extrait
2. MFK Oud, or Oud Extrait de parfum
3. Lumière Pour Homme
4. Petit Matin
5. Oud Satin Mood extrait
6. Absolute Pour le Soir
7. Grand Soir
8. Aqua Celestia
9. Aqua Universalis Forte
10.Oud Silk Mood

For other houses by Francis Kurkdjian:
1. Armani Mania
2. Le Male, and Ultra Male
3. Kouros Cologne Sport
4. Dior Eau Noire
 

Fugufish

Well-known member
May 30, 2020
Ok, once again I am late to the party but instead of opening a new thread I’d rather continue here.

Just ordered and tested 8 samples since I really wanted to get to know this house a bit more.

Oud is nice. It’s my style of Oud, very Western and tame. So is Grand Soir. It reminds me of Speakeasy by Frapin or Jazz Club by Maison Margiela, but much higher quality.

Petit Matin, much raved about on here, is nice, but in my opinion you can buy Dove soap and save a few hundred [emoji6].

From the Aquas (Celestia, Universalis, Vitae) in their forte version, I absolutely fell in love with Celestia forte. That’s gonna be my first buy.

Question to the initiated: worth sampling the “normal” Celestia or the new Cologne or just go with the forte if I like it that much?

I was a bit disappointed by Universalis Forte (I liked the regular Universalis when I tried it on another occasion) and the Vitae Forte and regular.

But the absolute winner and my other bottle I am going to purchase is one entirely unexpected: Gentle Fluidity Silver. Spicy Gin Tonic anyone? I love juniper berries and I have AdP Ginepro di Sardegna which I like a lot. But Gentle Fluidity Silver is quite the discovery. I read a lot about “synthetic” notes and I generally don’t find that much love for it, but I am hooked.

So there we go. My wallet hates me now and my collection grows again despite my supposed bottle limit. [emoji2957]


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cheapimitation

Well-known member
May 15, 2015
I'm not exactly a fan of the line but I've tried just about all of them now.

The only one I bought was Petit Matin. It does have the ambrox designer aroma chemical smell in the dry down that turns me off most of the line, but somehow it works with this one. It creates such a long lasting sparkling solar neroli white musk cloud that I really enjoy. But I've always been a fan of this genre, I also love Cologne Indelible and Le Labo Neroli, both of which are unabashedly synthetic neroli/citrus scents.

The original Oud is also nice and the most unique thing in the collection IMO. The other ouds and Grand Soir and Baccarat Rouge I find way too syrupy and cloying, they wear out their welcome long before the scent fades.
 
Jul 7, 2012
Question to the initiated: worth sampling the “normal” Celestia or the new Cologne or just go with the forte if I like it that much?

Imagine Aqua Celestia Forte with the citrus dialed back a bit and the mimosa a bit more prominent, and also with the whole scent being less strong (but still quite long lasting) and perhaps a bit more playful. That's Aqua Celestia. I haven't tried the new Cologne.

In other words, if you feel like Aqua Celestia Forte is too in your face, you might prefer the original. I own the original and it's great... but if I didn't, I'd probably buy the Forte instead. But they're both great.
 

Mistertaz

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2010
I’m pretty sure I’m anosmic to a lot of synthetic “laundry” musks, because most of his clean fragrances do very little for me.

His ouds and ambers are definitely nice and refined... but not groundbreaking. My favourites from him are still Absolue Pour Le Soir and Cologne Pour Le Soir as they bring something different to the table with their prominent animalic facets without actual musk.
 

Larry Hoover

Well-known member
Jan 18, 2015
A bit off topic, but even though MFK lowered its prices a couple weeks ago, it now seems they increased them anywhere from €5-20 per bottle or set. Just thought I'd post it here.
 

Jcelello

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 26, 2019
I used to like this house a lot more than I do now. Lumiere Noire is my current favorite. I wouldn't mind picking up a bottle of APLS again.
 

rum

Moderator
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Mar 17, 2011
It's been a while since I commented in this thread and as my tastes have changed since then, my list now goes something like this:

1. Amyris Homme EdT (close enough to being a signature scent for me now)
2. Amyris Homme Extrait
3. Petit Matin
4. Lumière Pour Homme

It's a shame Lumiere has gone as it was quite a staple cold weather scent for me that lasted through an entire 24 hours with very few sprays.
 

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