Prada infusion d'iris

Yuri-G

Basenotes Junkie
Sep 13, 2020
I have just finished my sample of Prada infusion d'iris. I think it's meant to be for women, but I don't care. I find it very comforting. It smells like my neighbours' house when I was growing up.

Does anyone have any intel on this fragrance? I think the incense note MIGHT be from bois d'encens. Benzoin is a listed note so I guess that's in there (I'm not aware of any 'benzoin' acs?). I don't get a huge amount of iris though TBH. I can see cedar and maybe orange blossom and neroli, but not really vetiver or galbanum. I'm not sure what mastic smells like.

I have sampled a couple of the other infusion d'xxxx range and they all seem like the same basic fragrance, each with their own little twist.
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
From a PA GCMS dated 2014, I have this info:

Iris comes from these items:
Boisiris
Dihydroionone <alpha->
a Isomethyl ionone
Ionone <alpha-, methyl->
Ionone <alpha-, 6-methyl->
Boronal

It is possible that the incense note comes from as you suggest, Bois d'encens, because I see both possibly/probably Frankincense and definitely Cedar in the GCMS. That was a good call on your part... Yuri-G.

plus five musks, Iso E Super, Hedione, and a couple of other things.
 

Yuri-G

Basenotes Junkie
Sep 13, 2020
Ah, thanks Paul!

Five musks? I feel exceptionally fancy when I use three.

I have boronal and dihydroionone, but the beta version. No irones? Interesting...

I have seen Mike extolling the virtues of boisiris. I should check it out.
 

mnitabach

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 13, 2020
Ah, thanks Paul!

Five musks? I feel exceptionally fancy when I use three.

I have boronal and dihydroionone, but the beta version. No irones? Interesting...

I have seen Mike extolling the virtues of boisiris. I should check it out.
Boisiris is super cool material! It can serve as complex core heart material in pretty high doses. If Paul is willing, would be very interesting to hear how much is in his GCMS... 😹 😹 😹
 

ScentAle

Super Member
Oct 26, 2021
I never smelled, curious, I readed that it is a very soft and calming smell.
I find that ethyl myristate and azarbre are perfect for the soft orris. And oxyoctaline is very good with orris, an incense non incense.
 

Yuri-G

Basenotes Junkie
Sep 13, 2020
It's a very pleasant fragrance. It reminds me in some ways of a less aldehydic Chanel no 5.

Stuff listed on the safety label, besides the Ionones Paul mentioned:

Limone and citral (maybe from natural citruses - notes list mandarin and orange. The neroli and orange blossom notes I assume are made of synthetics, but I could be wrong)
Geraniol
Citronellol
Linalool (these three could be added or from naturals)
Farnesol (I would guess this is from naturals. Does anyone use farnesol as an ac?)
Coumarin (I think this is added. It strikes me as quite coumarinic)
Isoeugenol
 

mnitabach

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 13, 2020
It's a very pleasant fragrance. It reminds me in some ways of a less aldehydic Chanel no 5.

Stuff listed on the safety label, besides the Ionones Paul mentioned:

Limone and citral (maybe from natural citruses - notes list mandarin and orange. The neroli and orange blossom notes I assume are made of synthetics, but I could be wrong)
Geraniol
Citronellol
Linalool (these three could be added or from naturals)
Farnesol (I would guess this is from naturals. Does anyone use farnesol as an ac?)
Coumarin (I think this is added. It strikes me as quite coumarinic)
Isoeugenol
When used in very small amounts (1ppt or less), isoeugenol can confer powerful floralizing effects without detectable spicy effect.
 

Yuri-G

Basenotes Junkie
Sep 13, 2020
When used in very small amounts (1ppt or less), isoeugenol can confer powerful floralizing effects without detectable spicy effect.
I've been using methyl diantilis up until now but have recently acquired some isoeugenol. This seems like a good project to use it in.

How would you describe boisiris in comparison to more standard iris materials like ionones?
 

mnitabach

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 13, 2020
I've been using methyl diantilis up until now but have recently acquired some isoeugenol. This seems like a good project to use it in.

How would you describe boisiris in comparison to more standard iris materials like ionones?
It's very unlike ionones.
 

Yuri-G

Basenotes Junkie
Sep 13, 2020
I tried having a go at creating something similar. I linea up all the materials I thought I would need and used one part each at the dilution I have them at (I haven't got isoeugenol diluted down; I need it at 1% I think, so I didn't use it), then a larger amount of Iso E Super and hedione. It was surprisingly successful and has given me an idea where to go. Following for dilutions, it works out like so at ppt:

Green Mandarin EO 31
Sweet Orange EO 63
Alpha Ionone 63
Gamma isomethyl ionone 63
Boronal 63
Geraniol 63
PEA natural 63 (lovely stuff, but a bit too high here)
Galbanum Resinoid 16 (way too much, and I say that as someone who lives galbanum)
Bois d'encens 63 (too high, but I like it - it makes the formulation more masculine)
Benzoin 6
Vertofix Coeur 63
Iso E Super 188
Hedione 125
Vetiver 6
Romandolide 63
Ethylene brassylate 63
Velvione 3

This is not the same, but in the right area. Theukey seems to be the interplay of orangey citruses, ionones and cedar/incense, supported by PEA and coumarin. I feel like maybe it's missing an aldehyde here for a bit of tingle.
 

mnitabach

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 13, 2020
I tried having a go at creating something similar. I linea up all the materials I thought I would need and used one part each at the dilution I have them at (I haven't got isoeugenol diluted down; I need it at 1% I think, so I didn't use it), then a larger amount of Iso E Super and hedione. It was surprisingly successful and has given me an idea where to go. Following for dilutions, it works out like so at ppt:

Green Mandarin EO 31
Sweet Orange EO 63
Alpha Ionone 63
Gamma isomethyl ionone 63
Boronal 63
Geraniol 63
PEA natural 63 (lovely stuff, but a bit too high here)
Galbanum Resinoid 16 (way too much, and I say that as someone who lives galbanum)
Bois d'encens 63 (too high, but I like it - it makes the formulation more masculine)
Benzoin 6
Vertofix Coeur 63
Iso E Super 188
Hedione 125
Vetiver 6
Romandolide 63
Ethylene brassylate 63
Velvione 3

This is not the same, but in the right area. Theukey seems to be the interplay of orangey citruses, ionones and cedar/incense, supported by PEA and coumarin. I feel like maybe it's missing an aldehyde here for a bit of tingle.
I'm not seeing coumarin in your formula...
 

Yuri-G

Basenotes Junkie
Sep 13, 2020
I'm not seeing coumarin in your formula...
Bugger! I missed it off the spredsheet. Well spotted.

Here's the updated version

Green Mandarin EO 31
Sweet Orange EO 62
Alpha Ionone 62
Gamma isomethyl ionone 62
Boronal 62
Geraniol 62
PEA natural 62
Galbanum Resinoid 15
Bois d'encens 62
Benzoin 6
Vertofix Coeur 62
Iso E Super 185
Hedione 123
Vetiver 6
Romandolide 62
Ethylene brassylate 62
Velvione 3
Coumarin 15
 

Yuri-G

Basenotes Junkie
Sep 13, 2020
Update. I managed to get a little spritz from my sample bottle. Comparing side by side, my attempt is still some way off (although I really like it). It is greener and woodier than the original, which is softer and richer, and more sweetly floral. I'm missing something to give that sweet powderiness.
 

Yuri-G

Basenotes Junkie
Sep 13, 2020
Azarbre and costus oliffac?
One hint of osmanthus will enrich totally the composition.
Not sure about azarbre (have never smelled it), but I feel fairly sure there's no costus in there.

Actually I'm thinking of castoreum. What does costus smell like?
 

ScentAle

Super Member
Oct 26, 2021
Not sure about azarbre (have never smelled it), but I feel fairly sure there's no costus in there.

Actually I'm thinking of castoreum. What does costus smell like?
Azarbre is my favorite material to use with orris, it is so tricky and I'm a great fan of it.
Costus oliffac hmm hard to describe. Some musky soft real animalic note, with smell of non washed hairs and something like precious woods. Sometimes I feel a far orris root affinity.
 

nicok

Super Member
Aug 7, 2012
From a PA GCMS dated 2014, I have this info:

Iris comes from these items:
Boisiris
Dihydroionone <alpha->
a Isomethyl ionone
Ionone <alpha-, methyl->
Ionone <alpha-, 6-methyl->
Boronal

It is possible that the incense note comes from as you suggest, Bois d'encens, because I see both possibly/probably Frankincense and definitely Cedar in the GCMS. That was a good call on your part... Yuri-G.

plus five musks, Iso E Super, Hedione, and a couple of other things.
Paul had you ordered that GC yourself at PA back then?
 
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