Perfumes in the manner of Bulgari's Black (1998)

[algebraist]

Alternatives and dupes of Bulgari's discontinued Black from 1998 composed by Annick Ménardo have been asked before, but I would like to revisit this topic since there are always new fragrances. I also thought to compile here beforehand some suggestions I have tracked down myself or online.

• Black Heart V2 by Map of the Heart: suggested by Turin in the 2018 guide as a second best, but hard to sample outside Australia.
• Club Design by The Zoo: I own this one, it is very abstract but if I had to relate it to something it might be leather polish, slightly powdery, and the dry down (like ten hours in at least on me) eventually reaches something salty, reminiscent of Silence the Sea from Strangelove NYC also by Laudamiel.
• Gomma by Etro: this is not said to be like Black according to Turin, but it has come up as a suggestion by some users, despite its greater floral character.
• Patchouli 24 by Le Labo: also composed by Ménardo, but for me this is not as complex and very straightforward as for most of its wear it is focused on birch without the balancing act in Black nor the prominent vanilla.
• Midnight in Paris by Van Cleef & Arpels: included for completeness since most people online swear by it as an alternative to Black but it is sadly discontinued and its price on eBay has skyrocketed as such.

I think with these types of posts it is helpful not to set expectations to be a copy of a discontinued fragrance, but rather something that has the key components. I think for Black, while different people pick up on different facets, in line with Turin's review, we can describe three:

1. Rubber accord (there are many interpretations of rubber, so the one specific to Black)
2. Green floral accord
3. Vanilla/amber accord

I think a fragrance hitting 2 out of 3 ought to be worth a mention, and probably what ties a perfume more closely to Black will be if it includes at least the rubber accord, along with one of the other two.

 

[Brooks Otterlake]

Two not featured on your list, but are very close to Bvlgari Black:

Aftelier Vanilla Smoke
Santa Maria Novella Tobacco Toscano

Both feature that rubbery element with the vanilla. Neither are quite as floral as Bvlgari Black, but they do have green/woody facets.

 

[algebraist]

Two not featured on your list, but are very close to Bvlgari Black:

Aftelier Vanilla Smoke
Santa Maria Novella Tobacco Toscano

Both feature that rubbery element with the vanilla. Neither are quite as floral as Bvlgari Black, but they do have green/woody facets.

Thanks, I should be able to easily sample the SMN one. Also nice to see we both share an appreciation for Sandor 70s, your SOTD

 

[hednic]

• Midnight in Paris by Van Cleef & Arpels: included for completeness since most people online swear by it as an alternative to Black but it is sadly discontinued and its price on eBay has skyrocketed as such.

I find this much better than the Bulgari.

 

[ehou333]

Comme Des Garcons Black EDT

 

[Melbourne Man]

Nostalgia by Santa Maria Novella

 

[algebraist]

I tried Black tonight, thanks to a friend that offered a spritz from her bottle (original with the built-in atomiser, no cap). Now that I think about that suede accord that verges on powdered latex gloves for me, it seems Tom of Finland from Etat Libre d'Orange is very, very similar. As a whole they don't have the same components but I do feel that latexy feel is lifted straight from Black. There is also something irisy or makeupy, in a very discreet way about Black, that reminds me of another ELDO, Putain des Palaces. That is further away from Black but they share something in common.

 

[heavy black heart]

have never sniffed Black but wonder if this is similar:

Ierofante by Quartana Parfum

Ierofante by Quartana Parfum For All

six-scents.com

 

[algebraist]

have never sniffed Black but wonder if this is similar:

Ierofante by Quartana Parfum

Ierofante by Quartana Parfum For All

six-scents.com

Well spotted, looks like it's already being compared to Black as well. The price point does have me rolling my eyes though, and the fact they're emphasising it is 22% concentration. (This figure is meaningless since a formula can have any percentage of DPG without being disclosed and thus you can be getting less than 22% in effect. Moreover concentration doesn't justify price or offer any assurance of quality of composition.)

 

[heavy black heart]

I hear you

I personally think it is a wonderful perfume & worth getting your nose on it

 

[PaTomas]

Along with Midnight in Paris, many compared this to Luna Rossa Black which I have not tried. I loved Bvlgari Black but finished it off, in fact.

I do know that the Luna Rossa Black dropped the typical lavendar of that Luna Rossa line.

 

[pfranka]

Maybe try Bvlgari Le Gemme Orom. I've heard it compared to Bvlgari Black and it's a great scent in its own right.

 

[Ken_Russell]

Great recommendations already.
Also mentioning based on certain similarities especially Chopard Mille Miglia and regular Paco by Paco Rabanne (possibly also, to a lesser extent, Black XS from the same house).

 

[algebraist]

Along with Midnight in Paris, many compared this to Luna Rossa Black which I have not tried. I loved Bvlgari Black but finished it off, in fact.

I do know that the Luna Rossa Black dropped the typical lavendar of that Luna Rossa line.

I'll try it tomorrow and give my thoughts. I did feel like there was something subtly irisy about Black, like it could have been something Andrier made as well, so makes sense that might be similar.

 

[algebraist]

Maybe try Bvlgari Le Gemme Orom. I've heard it compared to Bvlgari Black and it's a great scent in its own right.

I tried that one, I think it's definitely the best vanilla+"oud" I've smelled, and it didn't really seem like oud, focusing more on its woody facet with added smoky tones, so it does make it closer to Black than others in the genre. I think that suede like or for me, latexy character, is not present though. I think if I didn't know Black, I would be tempted by it.

 

[Franco65]

a reform version survived until not long ago, tires, vanilla and gasoline.. no scent comes even close!

 

[algebraist]

I tried Prada Luna Rossa Black and for me there is no possible suggestion of Bulgari Black. The angelica that I thought would be fictional is actually present, or at least there is a peppery quality reminiscent of that in angelica root essential oil. I don't find any suede, leather or rubber impression.

Tabacco Toscano surprised me however, there was a suggestion of Bulgari Black, enough so that I'd recommend it to others to sample. The tobacco felt a lot like current Chanel Egoiste, somewhat smoky and leathery.

I found out that Tom of Finland from ELDO is being discontinued in its current packaging and being rebranded as Clean Suede in an opaque black bottle. (I think this is also because its color has never been stable and would thus benefit from an opaque bottle to stop consumers worrying.) Since the latex feel of that came to mind immediately when I smelt Bulgari Black, plus the fact it's being rebranded, I decided to get a bottle.

The hunt for Black continues though.