Parfum D’Empire: Reviews and Discussion

Dec 16, 2018

I didn’t see a dedicated thread to all things Parfum d’Empire, so thought why not start one.
Here, is the entire line.

Eau de Gloire, EdT 2003
Eau Sauve 2005
Ambre Russe 2005
Iskander 2006
Cuir Ottoman 2006
Osmanthus Interdite 2007
Fougère Bengale, 2007
Equistrius 2007
Yuzu Fou 2008
- Aziyadé 2008
Wazamba 2009
3 Fleurs, 2009
Azemour les Orangers 2011
Eau de Gloire Édition Millésimée - Cologne pour l'Hiver, 2013
Musc Tonkin, Extrait de Parfum 2012
Musc Tonkin, 2014
Corsica Furiosa 2014
Eau de Gloire EdP, 2014
Tabac Tabou 2015
- Le Cri de la Lumière 2017
- Salute 2019
Acqua di Sacndola 2019
Immortelle Corse 2019

By the way, throughout this line, there are two constants…
- a perfumed sophistication which is NOT easy to achieve
- and even for a non-wearer like me, these perfumes are eminently wearable.

Le Cri de la Lumière
Ah, the first 10 minutes are… I don’t know how to say it… simply startling, since the notes dance right at the edge of your olfactory periphery, so superfluously melded are they here. It has that velvety quality, light and airy, a sweetly rosy iris revolving with a ballast beneath of fruity woods… I say all these notes to try giving an impression but whoever made this opening has tied a mystery and fluid happiness into one. The dry down is where a fresh vibe rattles me but overall, a beautiful melodic piece.

Salute:

This is unusual. Yes, loads of hesperdic notes but as if you’re approaching them from the other side of the olfactory tunnel. Grapefruit never had such delicacy, such nuanced persistence. That subtle perfumed quality of nutmeg laced with musk, this is something which folks will find reaching for again and again. They say it has notes of wine… hmm. I’ve bought it often as a gift for my family members.

Aziyadé:
Fruity, sweetish spicy, musky oriental upfront and it has a warm aura. There are two spices with such a scent profile—caraway with its musky scent and pungent, peppery overtones—cumin with its warm aromatic but humid muskiness. And here, it is definitely cumin. Cumin’s behaviour can be animalic but that is not the case here, however, it adds an adult flavour to any perfume. So, if you don’t care for cumin-loaded orientals, this isn’t for you. Dry down is very pleasing—much more than the opening.

It is enjoyable to revisit the perfumes from early 2000s.
I shall keep adding my take as I go through them, and look forward to your impressions.
 

gimmegreen

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 20, 2012
I am a latecomer to this line and completely agree on the sophistication of Corticchiato's creations. Salute is the perfume I have worn the most these last few months - it is, as you say, so pleasing to return to.
 

Proust_Madeleine

Basenotes Dependent
Apr 5, 2019
My favorites from this brand are Le Cri de la Lumiere and Azemour Les Orangers.

They're great!

These are my two favorites as well but I also really like Musc Tonkin and Ambre Russe and to a lesser extent Cuir Ottoman and Fougere Bengale —- I also think Oeilleres which he did for Robert Greco is INCREDIBLE though I know not everyone is on board with that sentiment.
 

Tonyprince

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 1, 2007
I also love this house. I have three bottles i own and love: Eau de Gloire, Cuir Ottoman, and Fougere Bengale. I've been tempted by Corsica Furiosa.
 

LinePlaneVolume

Basenotes Junkie
May 31, 2020
I love, love, love, Azemour. Cuir Ottoman, is also way up there for me, along with Le Cri. I like Eau de Gloire a lot (easy for crowds). Still getting into Ambre Russe and Fougere Bengale. Beautyhabit had two different 20% off coupons over the last few months, and I've happened to have been on a Parfum D'Empire kick, particularly because I love Azemour so much... dangerous coupons! Have Wazamba and Iskander on the way... watching Aziyade.

I've sampled Acqua di Scandola, and it's OK, but hasn't moved me to do anything else about it yet. Tabac Tabou, I also have a sample of... need to wear that a few more times.

Anybody get into Corsica Furiosa and have anything to share? And, I honestly haven't gotten my nose on Iskander, but the comparisons to Azemour were all about (lemon rather than orange), so I couldn't help it. Anyone have a lot of experience with that?

So, yeah, I really dig Parfum D'Empire.
 
Dec 16, 2018

Nasenmann

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 16, 2010
I find it a very respectable house but they all have a certain aristocratic vintage air to it, that just isn't me. Still holding on to my decant of Cuir Ottoman.
 

LinePlaneVolume

Basenotes Junkie
May 31, 2020
Dec 16, 2018
Reading posts I am realizing I aught to have started this thread a while ago...

gimmegreen: ... sophistication of Corticchiato's creations."
cazaubon:" Very well done and good value for the money."
SubUmbra: "... criminally unheralded house"
Nasenmann: "... a certain aristocratic vintage air to it."

All of above are spot-on comments but Nasenmann, I think you nailed it, it is exactly this very aristocratic vintage air that draws me to these perfumes.

I've now taught myself not to get too maudlin about the reformulation part, for with current market issues/IFRA bylaws/supply-chains, etc, they will happen. If the character of the perfume remains true--grand-- but if it doesn't, well then it was never meant to last.
 

darinaldi

Basenotes Member
Jun 8, 2018
I'm a big fan of Corticchiato. Even the fragrances that (for various reasons) I wouldn't want to own I thought were beautifully made and put together.

I own Azemour, Musc Tonkin, and also Oeilleres (and like Proust_Madeleine I unabashedly love it); eventually I'll likely buy Eau de Gloire and Corsica Furiosa as well.
 
Dec 16, 2018

Eau de Gloire, EdT 2003
- Eau Suave 2005
Ambre Russe 2005
Iskander 2006
Cuir Ottoman 2006
Osmanthus Interdite 2007
Fougère Bengale, 2007
Equistrius 2007
Yuzu Fou 2008
- Aziyadé 2008
Wazamba 2009
3 Fleurs, 2009
- Azemour les Orangers 2011
Eau de Gloire Édition Millésimée - Cologne pour l'Hiver, 2013
Musc Tonkin, Extrait de Parfum 2012
Musc Tonkin, 2014
- Corsica Furiosa 2014
Eau de Gloire EdP, 2014
Tabac Tabou 2015
- Le Cri de la Lumière 2017
- Salute 2019
Acqua di Sacndola 2019
Immortelle Corse 2019


Corsica Furiosa:
Green but not herby, rather the green of deep forest, with whorls of wet moss and woods: hay sharp and honey bright. Then, there is mint and tomato stem, but nothing like what I have sampled before. The whole green scent-notes profile is reminiscent of A Lab on Fire’s Hossegor (but far less sweet) and I realize then, hah its mastic. Although the latter is a later perfume; I have been backwards in sampling.
Corsica F. is the epitome of atmospheric scents.
More than 30-40 minutes later, it settles into a very dialed down hum of what the beginning had been—for the synaesthete—a deepening hay colour, with the earlier segue into the sharp emerald green spectrum, now gone.
The rapid tempo of its beginning... you wish for it again and again.
 
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Dec 16, 2018

Azemour les Orangers:
Citruses—a orange-lemon hybrid—beautiful hesperidic notes. If it was a bouquet, I would put my face in there and stay submerged. But the citrus-strings of this violin have the backing of a profoundly robust albeit quiet accord. Like a catchy riff… hmm, perhaps… it feels more like the background noise of a loving household, the subdued laughter and tinkling of china, heard in a subdued cadence as it lulls one to sleep: safe and fragrant.
Vah… it hints at innocence and sweetness but is adult at the same time!

Eau Suave:
It is a lacy rose concoction, very quiet, some spices but nothing loud that grabs hold of you. It is there but not there, kind of chemistry.
 

sagebrush

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 20, 2017
Maybe just try increasing by one or two at the most and see if that helps.

Thanks for the suggestion, hednic - I'll try an extra spray next time I sample them.

ETA : but I concur with PallasMoncrieff's view in post 21
Corsica F. is the epitome of atmospheric scents.
More than 30-40 minutes later, it settles into a very dialed down hum of what the beginning had been—for the synaesthete—a deepening hay colour, with the earlier segue into the sharp emerald green spectrum, now gone.
The rapid tempo of its beginning... you wish for it again and again.
 
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cacio

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 5, 2010
I love Azemour as well. Beautiful citrus, with some green, dry, hints of old chypres. Very pleasant.
 

Kaern

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 2, 2008
Very hit and miss imo but most Houses are -- lower echelons of the Premier League

Corsica Furiosa is a must if you like 'green'

I wonder if they are going to do a 'Third Reich' range?
 
Dec 16, 2018
Azemour les Orangers remains delectable.
Just the way a lot of other chypres don't have that oomph these days unless you ignore IFRA utterly, it maybe a "tad" subdued in the current version...
but it is not any less.
Rather, the citruses are brighter or, perhaps as we know, its the nature of hesperidic notes to decompose as time goes by.
That amalgam accord of orange/lemon/grapefruit is just plain... Uh'm.

incense+heliotrope: glad to note the concurrence.

As much as I didn't like such relegation... but tis true:
-- lower echelons of the Premier League.
However, even Guerlain can't beat what Parfum d'Empire's perfumes possess aplenty: a "wearability" factor with a capital W.
 

darinaldi

Basenotes Member
Jun 8, 2018
I own a bottle of the newer Azemour. I love it and happily wear it, but it is somewhat lesser than its former self—it definitely lost some of that chypre depth and richness in the reformulation and is more of a bright citrus. I feel similarly about the newer Musc Tonkin, which had its florals dialed way up and the animalics greatly reduced. Still a beautiful fragrance, but I miss the power of the original.
 
Dec 16, 2018

- Eau de Gloire, EdT 2003
- Eau Suave 2005
- Ambre Russe 2005
- Iskander 2006
- Cuir Ottoman 2006
- Osmanthus Interdite 2007
- Fougère Bengale, 2007
- Equistrius 2007
- Yuzu Fou 2008
- Aziyadé 2008
- Wazamba 2009
- 3 Fleurs, 2009
- Azemour les Orangers 2011
Eau de Gloire Édition Millésimée - Cologne pour l'Hiver, 2013
- Musc Tonkin, Extrait de Parfum 2012
- Musc Tonkin, 2014
- Corsica Furiosa 2014
- Eau de Gloire EdP, 2014
Tabac Tabou 2015
- Le Cri de la Lumière 2017
- Salute 2019
- Acqua di Scandola 2019
- Immortelle Corse 2019

3 Fleurs:
Nah, it is 4 Fleurs actually. I have never met jasmine, rose and tuberose wrapped up in a ylang-ylang hug this obvious. Here, somehow the screamers have turned sotto-voce confiders, from loud-mouthed (floral) Divas to girl-child ballerinas in swirling tutus. Makes me laugh. I can almost visualize M. Corticchiato’s sniffing tuberose or ylang-ylang absolute and tutting at them…. Ei, yei, yei, so obvious!

Immortelle Corse:
The first time I sampled Helichrysum italicum’s essential oil, I thought it was a mistake. It was reminiscent of mahogany spices-cupboards in my grandmother’s old estate, full of spices, herbs and dried tobacco leaves. Somewhere in there was honey but this scent also had an aftertaste… dusty, stale, curry-spice scent. Sort of wood work that borders a plastered whitewashed wall. It is odd that I think of this whenever I meet Immortelle scent.
Immortelle, despite its tiny size has a mighty scent profile. To field such a robust note with such polite and restrained-ease is like hitting a boundary on a fast-yorker with eyes closed.

Musc Tonkin:
2014. Eh. This one has a shabby hint of musky animal and leather in there… very underwhelming.
2012- Extrait de Parfum:
Now the idea is the same but the husky, musky, hay smell is so much better. It has an earthy depth to it, that moves from a wet phase to dry. Every time you inhale it deeply, it is like being drawn into a deep hollowed out space. Also, an odd honeyed, leathery, melon-fruit scent underneath. Hmm.
The real Musc Tonkin doesn't smell like this, but as a 'restrained musc', this is quite good.
 
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Dec 16, 2018
My own old bottle, long gone. For the sake of this thread, thought better to revisit before I post (as I'm revisiting all of them), so asked a friend to send me the 2012 extrait.
And I should again mention, it has the oddest vegetal (to wit: melon like) musky scent. I had forgotten about it.
 

cacio

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 5, 2010
Good to hear your impressions of musk tonkin. I tried the edt in store some time ago, loved the first 15 min, but then it became hardly detectable on me. Your comment makes me think that I wasn't the only one, and that I should try the extrait.
 

ExtremeK

Some of my paths in life are dirt
Basenotes Plus
Jul 5, 2010
Thank you for starting this thread. I love Parfum d’Empire. The fragrances are so well done. I own and love Ambre Russe, Equistrius, and Aziyade. I also really like Azemour les Orangers and Fougere Bengale. I want to try Eau de Gloire, Immortelle Corse, and 3 Fleurs.
 
Dec 16, 2018
Andrew: Wazamba is one of the few PdE perfumes that I have never tested. Will post my spiel soon.
cacio: Extrait is one of the most unusual musc ever. Definitely try— I can’t find a 2012 bottle anymore online though. A friend of mine says it is more like the ghost of real deer musk!
ExtremeK: agree... well done fragrances. We all would like to hear your impressions.
mahmadna: the new version just doesn’t do it for me; the Extrait is another story .
 
Dec 16, 2018
Fougère Bengale:
I am realizing that PdE’s perfumer has a trademark. He makes note-bouquets and then he wraps them with a scent-note ribbon of his choice. Here, the bouquet is a gangly mix of hay, coriander, fennel/star-anise, tobacco, patchouli, and the ribbon that holds it all together is the sweet-spicy, curry-tailed Immortelle. It is as far as possible from a fougère accord and still remains in the genre, and I couldn’t be more pleased.

Equistrius:
This is a distinct iris-amber. It has a rich, luxurious satin silk feel. The base is a soft mellow wood, wrapped in a leather accord which smell of suede and that… makes it fall from grace pretty fast, for it becomes banal, and commonplace. Although, the first ten minutes are just an iris-delight.
 

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