Papillon Perfumery Spell 125 new release review

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
Received my Spell 25 today, i get nose blind to it quickly to smell it up close but the scent bubble is great
As Cheetah1919 says, this is a scent that's better appreciated when it's smelled in wafts, rather than nose-to-skin. Smelling it up close causes me to miss or lose subtle nuances - the notes seem to coalesce and blend several inches off the skin..
 

Xcaliber6685

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Sep 18, 2020
Wearing Spell 25 for the 2nd time with 4 sprays, this is such an elegant and wild scent, I'm surrounded by a warm scent bubble. Spell 25 seems to have an obscene amount of ambergris that is VERY pronounced, giving me a vivid sense of salty sea breeze instead of the sweat funk like yesterday, and it just keeps on projecting. There's more incense than smoke on me, It's such an interesting scent, it is diffusive but tenacious at the same time, definitely has an excellent performance. I could use an extra kick of frankincense, but that may throw off the balance here. The more I wear it the more I like it, I think I would go from like to love on this one, $220 for 50ml is a steal, glad to have a bottle.
 

Cheetah1919

Well-known member
Mar 16, 2016
Wearing Spell 25 for the 2nd time with 4 sprays, this is such an elegant and wild scent, I'm surrounded by a warm scent bubble. Spell 25 seems to have an obscene amount of ambergris that is VERY pronounced, giving me a vivid sense of salty sea breeze instead of the sweat funk like yesterday, and it just keeps on projecting. There's more incense than smoke on me, It's such an interesting scent, it is diffusive but tenacious at the same time, definitely has an excellent performance. I could use an extra kick of frankincense, but that may throw off the balance here. The more I wear it the more I like it, I think I would go from like to love on this one, $220 for 50ml is a steal, glad to have a bottle.

Agree, at that price point, it is a steal….compared to the prices we pay for most other stuff these days!
 

FragSyndrome

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2016
This sounds interesting, bottle ordered!
Those placing a luckyscent order can specify which 4 samples you want in the order. So, I'm also looking forward to sampleing Dryad, Salome, Anubis and Tobacco Rose
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
Those placing a luckyscent order can specify which 4 samples you want in the order. So, I'm also looking forward to sampleing Dryad, Salome, Anubis and Tobacco Rose
Great choices! I love all of those. Tobacco Rose is one of my favorite rose perfumes, IMO it doesn't get the attention it deserves.
 

Schubertian

Active member
Apr 8, 2021
So I've tried this once from my tiny sample. Yes, it's interesting... but the pine note is very prominent on my skin. I would not wear this as a perfume, only as a kind of "mood" scent when I am alone. Maybe as people said, this one is better when wafting in the air, rather than directly on skin. (Kind of like Salome, incidentally.) Must try again.
I like it, but it kind of reminded me of using my sample of Dryad, which seems a more interesting perfume on me.
I've now tried all Papillons, and whilst I already own Salome, I still haven't pulled the trigger on anything else so far. Anubis seems a likely candidate - I loved its smokiness and the way floral notes suddenly emerged from the murk - must revisit my sample soon.
Ditto Dryad, which has similarities in the base to Salome without the bodily aspects of it.
Tobacco Rose is very nice, but as a non-rose lover I'll pass on it.
I have to say I positively disliked Angelique (unexpectedly).
Bengale Rouge was pleasant, but I wasn't wowed.
 

Cheetah1919

Well-known member
Mar 16, 2016
So I've tried this once from my tiny sample. Yes, it's interesting... but the pine note is very prominent on my skin. I would not wear this as a perfume, only as a kind of "mood" scent when I am alone. Maybe as people said, this one is better when wafting in the air, rather than directly on skin. (Kind of like Salome, incidentally.) Must try again.
I like it, but it kind of reminded me of using my sample of Dryad, which seems a more interesting perfume on me.
I've now tried all Papillons, and whilst I already own Salome, I still haven't pulled the trigger on anything else so far. Anubis seems a likely candidate - I loved its smokiness and the way floral notes suddenly emerged from the murk - must revisit my sample soon.
Ditto Dryad, which has similarities in the base to Salome without the bodily aspects of it.
Tobacco Rose is very nice, but as a non-rose lover I'll pass on it.
I have to say I positively disliked Angelique (unexpectedly).
Bengale Rouge was pleasant, but I wasn't wowed.

So, I bought my 125 blind without ever smelling with a sample vile. But when I purchased it from luckyscent, they sent a sample of 125 with the FB. Just for fun I tried the sample a few days after spraying the bottle, and the dabs from the vile just aren’t anywhere near the sprays from the bottle.
 

FragSyndrome

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2016
So, I bought my 125 blind without ever smelling with a sample vile. But when I purchased it from luckyscent, they sent a sample of 125 with the FB. Just for fun I tried the sample a few days after spraying the bottle, and the dabs from the vile just aren’t anywhere near the sprays from the bottle.

I’ve experienced this phenomena many times. The full bottle sprays smell much better and deeper than the sample vials. Don’t know why :/
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
I’ve experienced this phenomena many times. The full bottle sprays smell much better and deeper than the sample vials. Don’t know why :/
Definitely, same here. That's one of the reasons I'm not wild about samples - sometimes that small amount smells generic, whereas the full bottle blooms.
 

LiveJazz

Funky fresh
Basenotes Plus
Mar 16, 2006
Definitely, same here. That's one of the reasons I'm not wild about samples - sometimes that small amount smells generic, whereas the full bottle blooms.
I've been making a point to apply sample vials more generously and to my torso for this reason, spreading the liquid around as much as I can to simulate a spray. Still not exactly the same, but it gives a more accurate impression than a tiny wrist dab that requires close sniffing, which I used to do in order to conserve samples I liked.

And to that point:
So I've tried this once from my tiny sample. Yes, it's interesting... but the pine note is very prominent on my skin. I would not wear this as a perfume, only as a kind of "mood" scent when I am alone. Maybe as people said, this one is better when wafting in the air, rather than directly on skin.


Yes, I believe the astringent, bitter-dirty pine tone is toned down a lot in the sillage, and it's more about the incense. It's also quite a bit warmer to me when I smelled from the body. In the extended base, I've almost forgotten what I was wearing, it becomes so warm and lived in...far from where it starts.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
I've been making a point to apply sample vials more generously and to my torso for this reason, spreading the liquid around as much as I can to simulate a spray. Still not exactly the same, but it gives a more accurate impression that a tiny wrist dab that requires close sniffing, which I used to do in order to conserve samples I liked.
That has been precisely my issue...trying to conserve 1-2ml samples. They end up with a lot of evaporation as a result, so I defeat my own purpose. I'm going to start doing more lavish applications, as you describe. Vintage samples seem to offer more of themselves with just a dab, but I'm really stingy with those! :D
 

Schubertian

Active member
Apr 8, 2021
So, I bought my 125 blind without ever smelling with a sample vile. But when I purchased it from luckyscent, they sent a sample of 125 with the FB. Just for fun I tried the sample a few days after spraying the bottle, and the dabs from the vile just aren’t anywhere near the sprays from the bottle.
Yes, I agree. I tried to dab generously, but it's not the same effect. Unfortunately I don't have enough of Spell 125 to put it in a spray vial... I guess I'll have to try it again another time in a store somewhere.
 

PrinceRF

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 3, 2020
That has been precisely my issue...trying to conserve 1-2ml samples. They end up with a lot of evaporation as a result, so I defeat my own purpose. I'm going to start doing more lavish applications, as you describe. Vintage samples seem to offer more of themselves with just a dab, but I'm really stingy with those! :D
Lavish applications are the best way to wear these small vials!
 

FragSyndrome

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2016
Well... I did that blind buy thing with Spell 125 and it's not for me. I do think that it's a well made fragrance (as with the others that I also didn't like) but personally, I didn't like the opening and the drydown is so incredibly boring for me that I don't even want to wear it again.

These fragrances give me a Tauer vibe; that's not a bad thing mind you but I'm well past the point of wanting that kinda juice in my fragrance journey.

Also: Tobacco Rose.... is it just me or is that stuff loaded with ambroxen? It's like it's been pulled right out of Bleu de Chanel and into Tobacco Rose.
 
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Cheetah1919

Well-known member
Mar 16, 2016
So I’ve finally just pin pointed what 125 really reminds me of! It’s the handmade resin incense from
orthodox incense! Those little powdered dough cut tiny squares of frankincense mixed with other oils. Don’t know if any of you all have tried any of their incense resin cubes, but they are wonderful, and very affordable! The base/structure/dna of their incense, is almost spot on to Spell 125. I hadn’t gotten my box of incense stuff out in a year or two, so it was hard to put my finger on that comparison right away…..but I knew there was something, lol
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
So I’ve finally just pin pointed what 125 really reminds me of! It’s the handmade resin incense from
orthodox incense! Those little powdered dough cut tiny squares of frankincense mixed with other oils. Don’t know if any of you all have tried any of their incense resin cubes, but they are wonderful, and very affordable! The base/structure/dna of their incense, is almost spot on to Spell 125. I hadn’t gotten my box of incense stuff out in a year or two, so it was hard to put my finger on that comparison right away…..but I knew there was something, lol
Wow, those resin cubes from orthodox incense sound fabulous. I've never smelled anything other than readily available incense sticks and cones (from bookshops and New Age stores, mostly). Old church-y fragrances like Avignon are among my favorites, but those cubes sound like they're in a category all their own (like Spell 125).
 

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