Once More Unto the Breach: New Perfumes for Testing by a Picky Vintager (Me)

grayspoole

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014
Believe it or not, I like to stay informed on new releases and trends. I have ordered a multitude of samples over the years but it is very rare that I am tempted to add a new perfume to my (mostly) vintage wardrobe.

Undaunted, I have compiled a list of new releases to test, and I thought it would be fun to hear your reactions or additional suggestions. I like greens, florals, chypres, incense, animalic perfumes in potent formulations that do not rely on indelible, monotone woody aromachemicals. I don’t wear overt gourmands. I lean more towards independent and artisanal perfumers than to designer and niche, but I’m happy to try anything good.

Here’s what I have so far...

Ormonde Evernia
Rogue Vetifleur
Hiram Green Vetiver
Papillon Spell 125
Laura Bianchi Luxe Calm Volupte
Heely Jasmine OD
January Scent Project Gong
January Scent Project Horla
Dusita Cavatina
Sixteen92 Mellifera (via Margot1)

Unfortunately, I have not recorded all of my previous samples or tests here, but I appreciate all suggestions and will let you know if I’ve tried them before.

I REALLY want to try these below but I can’t figure out how to obtain a sample in the US without paying exorbitant shipping and I am reluctant to blind buy a FB. if anyone has any suggestions, please share!

Le Galion Bourrasque (2020)
Meo Fusciuni Odor 93

I’ll update the thread with my thoughts once I get the samples and try them. Thanks in advance, folks!
 

FiveoaksBouquet

Scented
Basenotes Plus
Jul 16, 2004
Looks like a wonderful project, grayspoole. I am not familiar with any on the list and will follow with interest.

Not quite a suggestion because I have only tested two scents of the brand and worn one but if you ever get to try anything from pH fragrances, hearing your impressions would be most interesting. No one seems to have heard of the house, which claims to do natural, but it turned up in a niche boutique here and seems pretty nice.
 

Margot1

Basenotes Member
Sep 12, 2021
Believe it or not, I like to stay informed on new releases and trends. I have ordered a multitude of samples over the years but it is very rare that I am tempted to add a new perfume to my (mostly) vintage wardrobe.

Undaunted, I have compiled a list of new releases to test, and I thought it would be fun to hear your reactions or additional suggestions. I like greens, florals, chypres, incense, animalic perfumes in potent formulations that do not rely on indelible, monotone woody aromachemicals. I don’t wear overt gourmands. I lean more towards independent and artisanal perfumers than to designer and niche, but I’m happy to try anything good.

Here’s what I have so far...

Ormonde Evernia
Rogue Vetifleur
Hiram Green Vetiver
Papillon Spell 125
Laura Bianchi Luxe Calm Volupte
Heely Jasmine OD
January Scent Project Gong
January Scent Project Horla
Dusita Cavatina
Sixteen92 Mellifera (via Margot1)

Unfortunately, I have not recorded all of my previous samples or tests here, but I appreciate all suggestions and will let you know if I’ve tried them before.

I REALLY want to try these below but I can’t figure out how to obtain a sample in the US without paying exorbitant shipping and I am reluctant to blind buy a FB. if anyone has any suggestions, please share!

Le Galion Bourrasque (2020)
Meo Fusciuni Odor 93

I’ll update the thread with my thoughts once I get the samples and try them. Thanks in advance, folks!
Oh wow hope you like the Mellifera! A little nervous tho since you say you don’t love the gourmand😬 Im new to the scent profiles so I’m amateur but probably would’ve put that in the gourmand category. But can’t wait to hear what you think! I won’t be offended if you don’t love it😝 haha like I said it has a 90s nostalgia for me
Also looking forward to hearing about your other testers as well!
 

Lellabelle

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 16, 2015
Thanks Grayspoole for sharing your journey with us; your insights are always so perceptive and nuanced. I will be following with interest! I’m particularly interested in your thoughts on Spell 125. I haven’t got nose to this yet, and am very interested to try it. it sounds gorgeous!
 

Lellabelle

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 16, 2015
The Hiram Green vetiver is rather lovely too, by the way. I suspect you’ll enjoy the quality of the materials. I don’t want to influence your reviewing in any way, so I will reserve all further impressions until you’ve had a chance to test.
 

Cook.bot

Flâneuse
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
I'm especially eager to hear your always-meticulous interrogations of Spell 125, , Vetifleur, Evernia, and the new Januaries. Every January scent has intrigued me as an experiment in what's possible with perfumery, but I've never yet been motivated to buy a whole bottle that I thought I would actually wear.

Go get 'em, girl!
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
I’m definitely looking forward to your thoughts on all these, as those fragrances intrigue me, and your thoughts in general even more.

FYI, I’ve been plowing through samples in the monthly Sample of the Day threads, so if you’re curious, come take a peek.
 

grayspoole

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014
Hope you can find a way to sample Le Galion Bourrasque (2020). I have a bottle of this and it's wonderful IMO.
I love the original 1937 version of Bourrasque by Paul Vacher, so I’m glad to know that Rodrigo Flores-Roux did well with his 2020 version. I’ve read that he is familiar with the older composition, so it will be interesting to compare the two, once I manage to find some of the newer one!
 

grayspoole

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014
Not quite a suggestion because I have only tested two scents of the brand and worn one but if you ever get to try anything from pH fragrances, hearing your impressions would be most interesting. No one seems to have heard of the house, which claims to do natural, but it turned up in a niche boutique here and seems pretty nice.
Thanks for the tip. pH fragrances does seem very interesting: they’re based in Grasse and involve some good young perfumers (like Quentin Bisch). Like the revived Le Galion house, however, they do not appear to be carried by any stockists in the US, as far as I can tell. They have a nice discovery set. Will keep them on my radar.
 

grayspoole

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014
Oh wow hope you like the Mellifera! A little nervous tho since you say you don’t love the gourmand😬

No worries! I am a promiscuous sniffer.

I looked up the Sixteen92 brand after you mentioned them, and I thought the artisan perfumer (Claire Baxter) seemed really cool. I have made brief sorties into the vast field of witchy artisanal oils by houses such as Alkemia, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab, Haus of Gloi et. al., and I do enjoy them. I have learned that I generally prefer the longevity and sillage of parfum/extrait formulations over perfume oils, which wear closer to the skin. Mellifera appears to be an oil, but it seems that Sixteen92 does offer some parfums too. I may order a few different samples...
 

grayspoole

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014
FYI, I’ve been plowing through samples in the monthly Sample of the Day threads, so if you’re curious, come take a peek.

I will! It sounds as though you haven’t yet commented on any of the ones on my list, but I will see what you have been testing.

“Plowing”...lol. Those samples DO pile up! I had to put a stop to ordering them because I found I was forcing myself to wear samples, like a chore, instead of my beloved perfumes. (“No! No! You can’t put on that vintage Joy extrait today, you HAVE to test the latest IRIS WATER+WAC that you ordered months ago!”). Thus, my thread title.
 

Wingie

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 2, 2009
Grayspoole, just an FYI that Jasmine OD is not technically a new release from Heeley, it is the scent that was formerly known as Bubblegum Chic and has been renamed. It was released in 2012. You may very well have already known this, and if so my apologies - I just thought I would point it out in case you weren't aware as I noticed it is not nearly as recent as most of the other new releases on your list.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
It sounds as though you haven’t yet commented on any of the ones on my list, but I will see what you have been testing.

I don’t think I have any of those you listed. I certainly haven’t worn them.

“Plowing”...lol. Those samples DO pile up! I had to put a stop to ordering them because I found I was forcing myself to wear samples, like a chore, instead of my beloved perfumes. (“No! No! You can’t put on that vintage Joy extrait today, you HAVE to test the latest IRIS WATER+WAC that you ordered months ago!”). Thus, my thread title.

I’m trying to wear one per day. I’ll be done in two years.
 

Cook.bot

Flâneuse
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
I just looked up the Meo Fusciuni one because the name intrigued me, and learned that the perfumer's name is Imprezzabile -- which means 'priceless'. Ha!
 

Margot1

Basenotes Member
Sep 12, 2021
No worries! I am a promiscuous sniffer.

I looked up the Sixteen92 brand after you mentioned them, and I thought the artisan perfumer (Claire Baxter) seemed really cool. I have made brief sorties into the vast field of witchy artisanal oils by houses such as Alkemia, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab, Haus of Gloi et. al., and I do enjoy them. I have learned that I generally prefer the longevity and sillage of parfum/extrait formulations over perfume oils, which wear closer to the skin. Mellifera appears to be an oil, but it seems that Sixteen92 does offer some parfums too. I may order a few different samples...
Ok good! Yeah the Mellifera is definitely a heavier consistency but I’d be curious to see what some of their other perfumes are like. They say to be patient as they are a small brand and I’m still waiting for my order to ship but can’t wait to get it. Looking forward to all your findings!
 

grayspoole

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014
Grayspoole, just an FYI that Jasmine OD is not technically a new release from Heeley, it is the scent that was formerly known as Bubblegum Chic and has been renamed. It was released in 2012. You may very well have already known this, and if so my apologies - I just thought I would point it out in case you weren't aware as I noticed it is not nearly as recent as most of the other new releases on your list.

Thanks for the additional info, Wingie, and no need to apologize for weighing in, ever. I always appreciate more information. While I did know that Jasmine OD was a re-release of Bubblegum Chic, I had the misconception that Jasmine OD was issued as an extrait, while Bubblegum Chic was not. I now see that BC was also an extrait. I will still try Jasmine OD, since I’m not committed to testing new releases only, and I have never tried BC, and I do have a weakness for BIG Florals! (Both names are just awful, don’t you think?)
 

grayspoole

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014
I just looked up the Meo Fusciuni one because the name intrigued me, and learned that the perfumer's name is Imprezzabile -- which means 'priceless'. Ha!
Neil Chapman (The Black Narcissus blog) just gave a rave review to Odor 93 so I am now curious.
 

Margot1

Basenotes Member
Sep 12, 2021
No worries! I am a promiscuous sniffer.

I looked up the Sixteen92 brand after you mentioned them, and I thought the artisan perfumer (Claire Baxter) seemed really cool. I have made brief sorties into the vast field of witchy artisanal oils by houses such as Alkemia, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab, Haus of Gloi et. al., and I do enjoy them. I have learned that I generally prefer the longevity and sillage of parfum/extrait formulations over perfume oils, which wear closer to the skin. Mellifera appears to be an oil, but it seems that Sixteen92 does offer some parfums too. I may order a few different samples...
Did you order the Sixteen92? I placed an order October 7th but still haven’t heard anything and I’m seeing a lot of complaints online now about orders😒 hopefully you won’t have the same problem!
 

grayspoole

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014
Did you order the Sixteen92? I placed an order October 7th but still haven’t heard anything and I’m seeing a lot of complaints online now about orders😒 hopefully you won’t have the same problem!
I didn’t order yet—I was planning to look over the other perfumes first. I’m sorry to hear your order is delayed, but I would stay hopeful, it’s probably a small operation.

Meanwhile, my samples from Tigerlily and Luckyscent have arrived, and I started testing today. Will update soon.
 

Ga.Peach

Basenotes Member
Jul 14, 2021
Would love to hear your thoughts on Rogue Vetifleur;it's one of my favorites from Manuel Cross.Wearing Vetifleur today. It's easy to over-apply! Am unable to identify the notes but I really like it! Also like Rogue Derviche2. I truly enjoyed the Rogue discovery set and Mr. Cross has sent me several free samples. One he sent me is labeled "Incense Resins Prototype for 2022".

Being new to the fragrance world and not able to visit perfume counters(various reasons)I get a fair number of samples and tend to gravitate toward independant and artisanal perfumers especially non-IFRA compliant ones.

Learning to identify vintage perfumes and ascertain their condition is quite a learning curve. Picked up a bottle of Estee Lauder
White Linen at a yard sale;batch number dates it at circa 2012. Pretty sure the urinous smell in that is civet? Or it has "gone bad"?

Still learning and a little perplexed that I tend to like the animalic notes. Warm and thought provoking.

Let us spray.
 

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